well like the title says. i'm settip up an n/a 13b 6 port right now. wondering if anyone has done any upper level and or higher speed drifting with an n/a based rotory. or if i need to go turbo.

thanks johnny

 

Eventually everyone goes turbo. How ever mad mike's fd is NA. Granted its a 20b with itbs.

 

And it sounds insane. That's the only way i'd stay n/a. 20b.

Drifting with a 2 rotor na, you're going to have to drift at higher speeds. Your entry speeds have to be a bit higher than if you had say oh 50-70 more hp. I'm already ahead of the game and ready for drifting underpowered b/c i drifted ff for a year. Learned by complete accident. Technically it's *** dragging but if you can smoothly initiate and counter through a corner while maintaining speed, that's a drift. You just have to haul serious *** in a fwd. In an n/a rwd, you're going to be kicking the clutch and having the throttle pegged ALOT. Only reason i'm going six port turbo in the future as well. Using all stock TII parts.

 

yeah... i drift a stock n/a 89 sohc ka right now... its painful. dyno'd at 78 rwhp lol. so i know how that goes... was really hping that 150 from a street port would be better. theonly advantage i have is a light asscar. ae86 is the shell gutted and stripped to the hilt. plexi rear and fiberglass or carbon everywhere i can... goal weight n/awas 1500 dry (no oil coolant or gas)

so thats the onyl advantage was that was the plan. but if not ill just save the trouble of perfecting the n/a and slap a stock tII turbo on it rightnow since have almost all the othernecessary t2 parts like front cover.

thansk guys

oh and 20b rules.

 

Has anyone tried it?
Sure.

Have we heard about them?
probably not. 13b turbo motors are par for the course

What's your definition of upper level drifting?
With a little bit of port work and tuning your N/a Motor can put down 200hp
which is plenty to go have some fun in.

As far as being competitive..

Suspension is going to have to be better dialed in for you
and your technique is going to have to be better than most of your comrades if you want to drift a lower power application and you're going to have to push the car closer to its limits...

to add to what NoPistons! already added <3

 

Dudes.

Mad mikes car is 46b.

Custom built 4 rotor.

N/A and like 50gs haha

 

46b eh? It's really a 26b PPort with ITB's.

 

T y p o

 

thanks guys. when i say competative im hoping to be top level in some of the "bigger" ets call them local comps. hopefulyl making it up to actually competing this year and next summer possibly trying my hand at a qualifier.

i figured most people were telling me to swap in a gt-s 4age and i know my 13b is stronger than that. keep in mind its not in an rx.

but i guess starting to turbo is my next goal... around 300 hp on a small (ish) turbo with a high compresion 6 port motor.

wish me luck and thanks for the help on the decision.

 

it also use to be a 3 rotor.....which is still out of most of our price range lol

 

well with this rebuild for the 13b (having it professionally done) a 4,000$ 20b doesnt seem so bad lol.

 

It doesn't. 20b is definately a sick *** engine. I'd love to have one in my fc one day.

Your goal is the same as mine. Around 300hp, 6 port turbo.

So you're putting this in an eight six? Word.

Ditching the ka torque in favor of the lighter rotary i assume?

 

drifting n/a is not so bad,porting is a must in my opinion cause more hp up top i guess is needed unless your trying to do dynamic drifting then some where in the 170 to 200 hp is par,dynamic drifting is more like using the weight of the car to carry a drift
along with heavy front breaking for corner entry.
the other way is to rely on shear power to "power through the corner" or "show drift" which is what the heavier luxo class cars do.
knowing what gear to be in is key.. best use of power to gear ratio.
but most of the time if your going fast enough the *** end will come around,best thing to know is how to control the oversteer in combination with throttle to angle
i.e countersteer.
the stiffer the suspension the better.10kilos in the front and 8 kilos in back(spring rate) harder damping like a 12.2 stroke per inch of travel with in a 3-4 inch length of travel.
and of course lsd,if your lsd is original.....weld it, cause its worn the crap out,and response like the initial kick back will be sluggish and it will be less controlable.
bigger contact patch on tires helps with side stability (wheel hop).
theres alot more to help in the aid of low hp drifting but it would take me to long explain and it also helps to know what your experiencing when your driving.
things like are youstaying in one gear to long,does the car "squat" when braking.
steering is sluggish...etc.

 

well the ka is in a 240sx lol not an ae86. the ae86 has the stock sr-5 engine whih i forget the code on. the ka24e is staying in my daily/backup driftcar. and yes least weight possibleis the goal.

300 is my goal.originally wanted a pp engine but decided turbo was better until i learn more.

theres alot more to help in the aid of low hp drifting but it would take me to long explain and it also helps to know what your experiencing when your driving.
things like are youstaying in one gear to long,does the car "squat" when braking.
steering is sluggish...etc.

my experiance so far is a stock sohc ka 89 240sx that plows bad into a corner. has a kyb (non adjustable) s-tech (TEIN) package on it and have run both open andkaaz 2 way. open it took a lot of clutch kickin and matting the gas. stearing response is good but not great i modded a few things this season to aid in that. with the kaaz it took a lot less gas to maintain the driftand was much more predictable. my basic technique is a feint into a clutch kick or just a feint power over depending on the corner. i ebrake very little due to the power that i dont have to recover. the home track is 3 tight slow turns and one big sweeper into two more tights. so mostly top of second drifting. as far as braking it does squat a little butnot much at all... and with theksports installed no it doesnt. as far as gears i barely shift on this track... the parkinglot events i've run i do some corners in first some in second. dont really touch third but thats a track size thing. hopefully at the beaver run events this year that willchange.

thanks for allthe help guys i really apreciate it.

 

Here is my Mazda FC3s bone stock NA doing some drifting.......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kF91k...e=channel_page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhfxS...e=channel_page

And Here is Mad Mike 26B 4 Rotor FD Video i took at long beach CA.......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7J48gpmVPs

 

"my experiance so far is a stock sohc ka 89 240sx that plows bad into a corner. has a kyb (non adjustable) s-tech (TEIN) package on it and have run both open andkaaz 2 way. open it took a lot of clutch kickin and matting the gas. stearing response is good but not great i modded a few things this season to aid in that. with the kaaz it took a lot less gas to maintain the driftand was much more predictable. my basic technique is a feint into a clutch kick or just a feint power over depending on the corner. i ebrake very little due to the power that i dont have to recover. the home track is 3 tight slow turns and one big sweeper into two more tights. so mostly top of second drifting. as far as braking it does squat a little butnot much at all... and with theksports installed no it doesnt. as far as gears i barely shift on this track... the parkinglot events i've run i do some corners in first some in second. dont really touch third but thats a track size thing. hopefully at the beaver run events this year that willchange."


so far thats a good entry level of "d-tunning". i think getting the car to tighten up will drastically help the turn in and increase response a lot.. some pillow ball front tension rods and a few under braces will help www.poweredbymax.net those guys make a bad *** setup up for s series and fc series cars i use there stuff on all of my cars.
also be mindful of the kaaz lsd, there finicky about the pre-load coming loose.

 

ooops.

Well, i was under the impression that you had a ka powered hatchi that you were putting a rotary into.

So you have an s13 and a hatchi and an fc? Clear up this confusion.



Off topic: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7J48gpmVPs

I'd take a horsecock caked in broken glass for 14 hours straight ON CAMERA to own that car. Dead serious. People would say "there's that guy who got glass-assed by a horse for more than half a day."

I'd respond with:

"There's that guy that doesn't own a 4 rotor fd."

 

i currently own 3 cars:

1989 coupe 240: ka24e- cam header n1 misc suspension kaaz 2-way

1986 ae86 hatch: stock sr-5, plan: weld diff, lowering spring/shocks, new bushings, 13b (6 port wild street port rebuild), lots of fiberglass to cancel the rust. way way later on 6 port turbo hybrid

1986mustang gt 5.0: currently 351 swapping (lots of mods), suspension for being able to have more stearing angle.

i know the mustang hadn't come up yet but hell its another car i own lol. and yes i have way too many projects. the s13 is my daily the mustang is the gf's toy ish (i own t she wrenches on it.)

i was really asking can a say 13b street port 4 barrel holley making 175 ish rwhp keep up with the 300 ish rwhp s13's that drift around here??meaning more of the big banked corners holding agood slide. right now the mustang is the only thing with enough power to actually hold the tirs smoking. the s13 is setup for reall short tight tracks.

sorry for the confusion.

johny

 

just as another option those ae86 carbed sr5 motors can be turboed on the cheap for some decent power/turbo torque (for a light weight hachi that is) and still get decent fuel economy (can anyone say fun daily driver?). I'm always a fan of the rotary being put in anything small and light but just saying its an option.

 

yeah im thinking of using that sr-5 turbo until i blow it... no idea on actualy milage