my rx7 drift build
Mil-spec connector, the proper way to run a harness through a wall. It also makes it easy to pull the engine because you don't have to pull the whole harness, you just unplug it from the fire wall and remove it when you're tearing the engine down. Read Brian's thread for the proper way to build a harness.
https://www.rx7club.com/motec-247/titaniumtts-official-motec-m800-820-thread-783778/
https://www.rx7club.com/motec-247/titaniumtts-official-motec-m800-820-thread-783778/
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 378
Likes: 1
From: nm
gussets
same way i did them on my friends car...
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=23271.0
same way i did them on my friends car...
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=23271.0
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 114
Likes: 2
From: Toronto
^ you need to purchase dimple dies.
www.trick-tools.com is where I got my set.
You drill the hole size of the dimple die, slide one side of the die through and then use your press.
www.trick-tools.com is where I got my set.
You drill the hole size of the dimple die, slide one side of the die through and then use your press.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 378
Likes: 1
From: nm
http://www.vansantent.com/sheet_meta...lare_tools.htm
thats the ones i have u drill 1/2 hole and it pops the hole and dimples it
thats the ones i have u drill 1/2 hole and it pops the hole and dimples it
/\/\/\/\/\/\
Welcome to drifting.
He does the things he does because he can.
The fire wall plug was soooooooooooo necessary. You just have no idea until you've tried pulling plugs through the firewall only to find they wont go through and you have to cut them. Then you say **** it, bust out the hack saw and saw through the entire 2" thickness of the harness, toss the harness in a box and decide to deal with it later.
****.
Here's TTT's for the lazy:
Welcome to drifting.
He does the things he does because he can.
The fire wall plug was soooooooooooo necessary. You just have no idea until you've tried pulling plugs through the firewall only to find they wont go through and you have to cut them. Then you say **** it, bust out the hack saw and saw through the entire 2" thickness of the harness, toss the harness in a box and decide to deal with it later.
****.
Here's TTT's for the lazy:
A few more holes and the third piece of the harness bolts to the firewall. Thee only plug save the Lambda and Oil Pressure that needs to be undone to haul the motor is the top one. I ******* LOVE it!!!
From inside the car you can see how tight it is. The blower motor does fit, it needed some slight trimming on one of the connector mounts but everything fits just about perfectly. I are happy
To mount the ECU was a bit of a head scratcher since there are no mounting tabs at all. The idea of useing velcro in the location that I had in mind just wasn't sitting well with me & I wanted something to dampen vibrations going to the ECU. Here is what I came up with. The bottom and the sides are from 14 GA Stainless that I quickly burned through with my plasma and sent through my brake to create all the bends. The two pieces strapped over the top are from 16 GA stainless (they need to bend) and are welded int he back. Any piece of stainless that would contact the M800 has been padded. The mounting platform bolts into the car, you lift up the two straps, slide the ECU in and secure the straps with some stainless button heads and the ECU is now one with the car. I like it.
Mounted up
Coming off that third harness are connections for the wheel speed, boost trim, CAN comm for the dash, ADL comms for the ECU, a bunch more spare I/O's and all the power and ground connections. i should note that there are no branched circuits on the harness in the engine bay. All splices are done in the inside. This way if something goes wrong or things need to be re-pinned, it's not only possible, but it's much easier.
From inside the car you can see how tight it is. The blower motor does fit, it needed some slight trimming on one of the connector mounts but everything fits just about perfectly. I are happy
To mount the ECU was a bit of a head scratcher since there are no mounting tabs at all. The idea of useing velcro in the location that I had in mind just wasn't sitting well with me & I wanted something to dampen vibrations going to the ECU. Here is what I came up with. The bottom and the sides are from 14 GA Stainless that I quickly burned through with my plasma and sent through my brake to create all the bends. The two pieces strapped over the top are from 16 GA stainless (they need to bend) and are welded int he back. Any piece of stainless that would contact the M800 has been padded. The mounting platform bolts into the car, you lift up the two straps, slide the ECU in and secure the straps with some stainless button heads and the ECU is now one with the car. I like it.
Mounted up
Coming off that third harness are connections for the wheel speed, boost trim, CAN comm for the dash, ADL comms for the ECU, a bunch more spare I/O's and all the power and ground connections. i should note that there are no branched circuits on the harness in the engine bay. All splices are done in the inside. This way if something goes wrong or things need to be re-pinned, it's not only possible, but it's much easier.
That's everything I have so far. I expect to be getting a bunch of connectors in soon and i'll be able to finish up all of the wiring. I leave in 12 days to go get my dash, trim switch, and comm cables. This beast should be fired rather soon. The end is almost in sight. I'll keep this thread updated and more goes on.
Last edited by NoPistons!; Dec 9, 2008 at 02:23 PM.
The fire wall plug was soooooooooooo necessary. You just have no idea until you've tried pulling plugs through the firewall only to find they wont go through and you have to cut them. Then you say **** it, bust out the hack saw and saw through the entire 2" thickness of the harness, toss the harness in a box and decide to deal with it later.
Riz.
