Anybody sliding n/a's out there?
#76
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Well if you haven't got torque, you should have speed. 100+mph backward entries here i come !!
I will try to make the PP as torquey as possible without killing top end. The combination of light weight, skinny tires, good speed and hand brake should do the trick.
I should get off my *** and make a build thread of it.
What about you, still drifting the gtu ?
I will try to make the PP as torquey as possible without killing top end. The combination of light weight, skinny tires, good speed and hand brake should do the trick.
I should get off my *** and make a build thread of it.
What about you, still drifting the gtu ?
And I still have the GTU, and it's much different than that video. But I haven't drifting in quite sometime. Life has gotten in the way as it normally does. But I just had a haltech installed and the car tuned to it's running better than before. Will eventually go TII but I'm just happy to be driving it again. Need to find some local events. If nothing else I'll do autocross and slide it through a few corners
#77
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
I'm just getting into the drifting scene. I have a 90 N/A Vert Mods are:
Spectre Intake
Straight pipe from stock manifold back to a cherry bomb
Energy Suspension Full Poly bushing set
Stock BBS wheels 205/60/15
Open diff?
I went to my first event a few weeks back and it was a blast. I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
Spectre Intake
Straight pipe from stock manifold back to a cherry bomb
Energy Suspension Full Poly bushing set
Stock BBS wheels 205/60/15
Open diff?
I went to my first event a few weeks back and it was a blast. I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
#78
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
I'm just getting into the drifting scene. I have a 90 N/A Vert Mods are:
Spectre Intake
Straight pipe from stock manifold back to a cherry bomb
Energy Suspension Full Poly bushing set
Stock BBS wheels 205/60/15
Open diff?
I went to my first event a few weeks back and it was a blast. I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
Spectre Intake
Straight pipe from stock manifold back to a cherry bomb
Energy Suspension Full Poly bushing set
Stock BBS wheels 205/60/15
Open diff?
I went to my first event a few weeks back and it was a blast. I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
#79
This sh*t burns oil!
iTrader: (7)
Adjustability...you can adjust ride height, spring preload(depending on unit), dampening, and camber(the front).
#80
#82
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Sick!
#83
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Perhaps I am getting off subject, if so just let me know but what does all that adjustment mean? Obviously I know what ride height is, but what is spring preload and damping and how does it affect the ride of the car? Also why do I see so many cars with such crazy camber, I thought that was just for looks, do those extreme angles help the car get sideways? Should I just buy a book about drifting??
As far as camber goes, normally you want to run -3 to -4 degrees of camber in the front, because when you're counter steering the more negative camber you have the better the contact patch of the tire giving the front grip. For the rear, the less contact patch the less grip you have the easier it is to start sliding but then the less grip you'll have when sliding. So in a low powered car having some negative camber isn't bad, but as you progress you'll want as close as you can get to 0.
Someone chime and correct me if I'm wrong or misspoke. Also check out the Setup thread that's stickied, it may help explain things better.
#84
bone stock suspension including three blown struts
RB header and omp delete otherwise the rest of the car is stock too.
coilovers, bushings and stiff mounts, plus maybe gearing is all i have in the future for this.
#85
Nah all valid questions. I'm not an expert on the subject, and you want to setup your car to how YOU drive. 8/6kg spring rates are common, but depending on the setup and driver preference some guys run 12/10, 10/5 etc. Here's a link to suspension basics: How A Coilover Works - Super Street Magazine
As far as camber goes, normally you want to run -3 to -4 degrees of camber in the front, because when you're counter steering the more negative camber you have the better the contact patch of the tire giving the front grip. For the rear, the less contact patch the less grip you have the easier it is to start sliding but then the less grip you'll have when sliding. So in a low powered car having some negative camber isn't bad, but as you progress you'll want as close as you can get to 0.
Someone chime and correct me if I'm wrong or misspoke. Also check out the Setup thread that's stickied, it may help explain things better.
As far as camber goes, normally you want to run -3 to -4 degrees of camber in the front, because when you're counter steering the more negative camber you have the better the contact patch of the tire giving the front grip. For the rear, the less contact patch the less grip you have the easier it is to start sliding but then the less grip you'll have when sliding. So in a low powered car having some negative camber isn't bad, but as you progress you'll want as close as you can get to 0.
Someone chime and correct me if I'm wrong or misspoke. Also check out the Setup thread that's stickied, it may help explain things better.
#86
stock stock stock besides exhaust heres sliding a na around an oval.
needs miata trans gears.
im running 17x9 up front with 215/45's and the rear has stock 15's and 195/60's aired to 60psi
#87
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I'm actually getting back into drifting. Just bought a 86 base model and a 90 GXL. My first event is March 19th. Starting from scratch!!!
Major Goals:
Caged
Coilovers
TII Drivetrain
Side-draft manifold
ITB's
Haltech
Major Goals:
Caged
Coilovers
TII Drivetrain
Side-draft manifold
ITB's
Haltech
#89
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i'm building mine for drift...hopefully i'll be able to get on the track this year, but as it stands i need a rebuild thanks to bad oil seals. gonna be doing a large streetport at that time.
mods so far: gutted rear interior, emissions removal, banzai block-off kit, k&n intake, pacesetter headers with backpressure pick-up tube welded in so my aux ports still function, 2.5" test pipe, 3" manzo catback. so far thats it for power. other mods include kyb gr-2 fronts and kyb agx adjustable rears,megan racing front strut tower bar, no name rear strut bar, momo corse steering wheel, and just picked up a set of Rota grids 17x9 +25. street wheels are Enkie 92's 16x8
coilovers soon to come (hopefully) and then i should be ready to slay rubber, but its already good at breaking the back free
feel free to follow along with my build thread too! https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...build-1086465/
mods so far: gutted rear interior, emissions removal, banzai block-off kit, k&n intake, pacesetter headers with backpressure pick-up tube welded in so my aux ports still function, 2.5" test pipe, 3" manzo catback. so far thats it for power. other mods include kyb gr-2 fronts and kyb agx adjustable rears,megan racing front strut tower bar, no name rear strut bar, momo corse steering wheel, and just picked up a set of Rota grids 17x9 +25. street wheels are Enkie 92's 16x8
coilovers soon to come (hopefully) and then i should be ready to slay rubber, but its already good at breaking the back free
feel free to follow along with my build thread too! https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...build-1086465/
#90
what money?
Once I get a few things buttoned up, I'm gonna start hitting the track. I'm not saying I'll be any good, and I'm not saying my car is set up any good, but I think I'll get the hang of it. As long as I don't total the car, I'm cool. Besides, it only really matters if your car looks good, not necessarily how good you are. Everybody knows that.
All jokes aside I'll be starting my drifting career with the following setup (not much)
PBM Coils -slotted for max style points
Stock na
stock lsd
racing beat header/exhaust (soon to be 3" straight)
Battle Version rear camber arm
Bucket seat with harness
Gutted interior
Front 18x10 +7 | Rear 18x11 -3 Weds Cerberus II
Looking to do some angle mods and get smaller front wheels so I can utilize that angle.
Any tips or comments plz hlp
All jokes aside I'll be starting my drifting career with the following setup (not much)
PBM Coils -slotted for max style points
Stock na
stock lsd
racing beat header/exhaust (soon to be 3" straight)
Battle Version rear camber arm
Bucket seat with harness
Gutted interior
Front 18x10 +7 | Rear 18x11 -3 Weds Cerberus II
Looking to do some angle mods and get smaller front wheels so I can utilize that angle.
Any tips or comments plz hlp
#91
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Location: Rochester, NY
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Labuffness, you are probably going to want narrower and smaller wheels. a mostly stock N/A doesn't have the power to keep those things spinning. i have a feeling you'll be gripping up way too much
#92
Senior Member
I agree, aired up stock size rear wheels will help alot. You dont necessarily want to start with an angle kit, get used to how the car slides and drifting in general, an angle kit only magnifies your steering input.
Car looks good though and I assume you're pretty close to Summit which is a great track
Car looks good though and I assume you're pretty close to Summit which is a great track
#93
what money?
I agree, aired up stock size rear wheels will help alot. You dont necessarily want to start with an angle kit, get used to how the car slides and drifting in general, an angle kit only magnifies your steering input.
Car looks good though and I assume you're pretty close to Summit which is a great track
Car looks good though and I assume you're pretty close to Summit which is a great track
I wise man once said
"It is very hard to drift a car this low with wide wheels is tough, but if I had to give up the style, I would just give up drifting"
I am determined to make it work on the current setup. Plans are to beat the **** out of this little 13B and replace it with a 1j when she decides to blow.
#94
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
You can run the 18s, but you'll need a really high tire pressure to keep them spinning.
I wouldn't go with a 3" exhaust, 2.5 is best for NA cars.
What LSD do you have? If it's a S4 then make sure the clutch packs are in good shape or weld it up. If it's an S5 I'd say look at getting a S4.
Run the car as is, if the rear end is snapping too hard on transitions causing you to spin I would look at disabling your rear sway (just remove on of the bolts). It makes the car more predictable and stable, at least to me.
Have fun!
I wouldn't go with a 3" exhaust, 2.5 is best for NA cars.
What LSD do you have? If it's a S4 then make sure the clutch packs are in good shape or weld it up. If it's an S5 I'd say look at getting a S4.
Run the car as is, if the rear end is snapping too hard on transitions causing you to spin I would look at disabling your rear sway (just remove on of the bolts). It makes the car more predictable and stable, at least to me.
Have fun!
#95
what money?
You can run the 18s, but you'll need a really high tire pressure to keep them spinning.
I wouldn't go with a 3" exhaust, 2.5 is best for NA cars.
What LSD do you have? If it's a S4 then make sure the clutch packs are in good shape or weld it up. If it's an S5 I'd say look at getting a S4.
Run the car as is, if the rear end is snapping too hard on transitions causing you to spin I would look at disabling your rear sway (just remove on of the bolts). It makes the car more predictable and stable, at least to me.
Have fun!
I wouldn't go with a 3" exhaust, 2.5 is best for NA cars.
What LSD do you have? If it's a S4 then make sure the clutch packs are in good shape or weld it up. If it's an S5 I'd say look at getting a S4.
Run the car as is, if the rear end is snapping too hard on transitions causing you to spin I would look at disabling your rear sway (just remove on of the bolts). It makes the car more predictable and stable, at least to me.
Have fun!
#96
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (2)
I plan on the high tire pressure for sure. I believe the smaller contact patch by not zeroing out the camber should help as well. I have the S5 LSD. would it not be a viable option to just weld it up? As far as the sway bar, I plan on driving as is and then will make that change depending on the feel of the car as you said. Been watching you progress on here for awhile! Cheers!
And thanks! All this talk is making me miss driving. I haven't driven at a dedicated event in a while. Although the next one I make I won't be able to post in this thread since it won't be NA anymore.
#97
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have you done the DTSS eliminator bushings? i'm sure that would help out as well. its something i plan on doing once i'm ready to actually go sliding.
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