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Well if you haven't got torque, you should have speed. 100+mph backward entries here i come !!
I will try to make the PP as torquey as possible without killing top end. The combination of light weight, skinny tires, good speed and hand brake should do the trick.
I should get off my *** and make a build thread of it.
What about you, still drifting the gtu ?
That's very true, like I said definitely interested in seeing the results.
And I still have the GTU, and it's much different than that video. But I haven't drifting in quite sometime. Life has gotten in the way as it normally does. But I just had a haltech installed and the car tuned to it's running better than before. Will eventually go TII but I'm just happy to be driving it again. Need to find some local events. If nothing else I'll do autocross and slide it through a few corners
I'm just getting into the drifting scene. I have a 90 N/A Vert Mods are:
Spectre Intake
Straight pipe from stock manifold back to a cherry bomb
Energy Suspension Full Poly bushing set
Stock BBS wheels 205/60/15
Open diff?
I went to my first event a few weeks back and it was a blast. I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
I'm just getting into the drifting scene. I have a 90 N/A Vert Mods are:
Spectre Intake
Straight pipe from stock manifold back to a cherry bomb
Energy Suspension Full Poly bushing set
Stock BBS wheels 205/60/15
Open diff?
I went to my first event a few weeks back and it was a blast. I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
More adjustability with height, damping and adjustment. They're also quite a bit stiffer then springs and struts.
I was asking the guys there for set-up tips and most all of them said coilovers, welded diff or 1.5way Kaaz, DTSS Elim and lots of tires and wheels. Which is great because I can get most all of that for less than $2k.
Thats pretty much on point, and a decent alignment is also your friend. The diff doesnt have to be a Kaaz if you have the mechanical ability or locals willing to help a stock S4 clutch type lsd can be reshimmed to lock great for around $225 + whatever the cost of a used s4 na lsd is. If budget allows the mazdatrix angle kit is a good investment, sure you dont NEED the angle but its fun and easier to keep the car sideways if you've thrown it a little too hard, which is rad for someone learning...not spinning > spinning
Originally Posted by 2nd Chance
I'm curious though, why does everyone suggest coilovers instead of just a lowered adjustable suspension like the KYB AGX with the RB lowering spring and mounts?
What advantage do the coilovers have over gas shocks?
Adjustability...you can adjust ride height, spring preload(depending on unit), dampening, and camber(the front).
I slide my 88s4.
88s4
Stock port engine, headers, stock exhaust, stock intake. Ground control setup on koni race inserts up front with agx struts in the rear. Stock links and stock dtss
I slide my 88s4.
88s4
Stock port engine, headers, stock exhaust, stock intake. Ground control setup on koni race inserts up front with agx struts in the rear. Stock links and stock dtss
+ B A L L S Feign drifting is intense man!
Originally Posted by rmx5
Here's another from the following cars pov
Sick!
Originally Posted by K!NCH
More adjustability with height, damping and adjustment. They're also quite a bit stiffer then springs and struts.
Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
Adjustability...you can adjust ride height, spring preload(depending on unit), dampening, and camber(the front).
Perhaps I am getting off subject, if so just let me know but what does all that adjustment mean? Obviously I know what ride height is, but what is spring preload and damping and how does it affect the ride of the car? Also why do I see so many cars with such crazy camber, I thought that was just for looks, do those extreme angles help the car get sideways? Should I just buy a book about drifting??
Perhaps I am getting off subject, if so just let me know but what does all that adjustment mean? Obviously I know what ride height is, but what is spring preload and damping and how does it affect the ride of the car? Also why do I see so many cars with such crazy camber, I thought that was just for looks, do those extreme angles help the car get sideways? Should I just buy a book about drifting??
Nah all valid questions. I'm not an expert on the subject, and you want to setup your car to how YOU drive. 8/6kg spring rates are common, but depending on the setup and driver preference some guys run 12/10, 10/5 etc. Here's a link to suspension basics: How A Coilover Works - Super Street Magazine
As far as camber goes, normally you want to run -3 to -4 degrees of camber in the front, because when you're counter steering the more negative camber you have the better the contact patch of the tire giving the front grip. For the rear, the less contact patch the less grip you have the easier it is to start sliding but then the less grip you'll have when sliding. So in a low powered car having some negative camber isn't bad, but as you progress you'll want as close as you can get to 0.
Someone chime and correct me if I'm wrong or misspoke. Also check out the Setup thread that's stickied, it may help explain things better.
Nah all valid questions. I'm not an expert on the subject, and you want to setup your car to how YOU drive. 8/6kg spring rates are common, but depending on the setup and driver preference some guys run 12/10, 10/5 etc. Here's a link to suspension basics: How A Coilover Works - Super Street Magazine
As far as camber goes, normally you want to run -3 to -4 degrees of camber in the front, because when you're counter steering the more negative camber you have the better the contact patch of the tire giving the front grip. For the rear, the less contact patch the less grip you have the easier it is to start sliding but then the less grip you'll have when sliding. So in a low powered car having some negative camber isn't bad, but as you progress you'll want as close as you can get to 0.
Someone chime and correct me if I'm wrong or misspoke. Also check out the Setup thread that's stickied, it may help explain things better.
You pretty much hit the nail on the head with that explanation.
i'm building mine for drift...hopefully i'll be able to get on the track this year, but as it stands i need a rebuild thanks to bad oil seals. gonna be doing a large streetport at that time.
mods so far: gutted rear interior, emissions removal, banzai block-off kit, k&n intake, pacesetter headers with backpressure pick-up tube welded in so my aux ports still function, 2.5" test pipe, 3" manzo catback. so far thats it for power. other mods include kyb gr-2 fronts and kyb agx adjustable rears,megan racing front strut tower bar, no name rear strut bar, momo corse steering wheel, and just picked up a set of Rota grids 17x9 +25. street wheels are Enkie 92's 16x8
coilovers soon to come (hopefully) and then i should be ready to slay rubber, but its already good at breaking the back free
Once I get a few things buttoned up, I'm gonna start hitting the track. I'm not saying I'll be any good, and I'm not saying my car is set up any good, but I think I'll get the hang of it. As long as I don't total the car, I'm cool. Besides, it only really matters if your car looks good, not necessarily how good you are. Everybody knows that.
All jokes aside I'll be starting my drifting career with the following setup (not much)
PBM Coils -slotted for max style points
Stock na
stock lsd
racing beat header/exhaust (soon to be 3" straight)
Battle Version rear camber arm
Bucket seat with harness
Gutted interior
Front 18x10 +7 | Rear 18x11 -3 Weds Cerberus II
Looking to do some angle mods and get smaller front wheels so I can utilize that angle.
Labuffness, you are probably going to want narrower and smaller wheels. a mostly stock N/A doesn't have the power to keep those things spinning. i have a feeling you'll be gripping up way too much
I agree, aired up stock size rear wheels will help alot. You dont necessarily want to start with an angle kit, get used to how the car slides and drifting in general, an angle kit only magnifies your steering input.
Car looks good though and I assume you're pretty close to Summit which is a great track
Labuffness, you are probably going to want narrower and smaller wheels. a mostly stock N/A doesn't have the power to keep those things spinning. i have a feeling you'll be gripping up way too much
Originally Posted by Freeskier7791
I agree, aired up stock size rear wheels will help alot. You dont necessarily want to start with an angle kit, get used to how the car slides and drifting in general, an angle kit only magnifies your steering input.
Car looks good though and I assume you're pretty close to Summit which is a great track
I will make it work. As you'll learn, I'm more of a style than function guy. These bad boys are gonna have a good amount of tire pressure in the rear. I've done it before and I know it can be done. Not saying that you guys are wrong, cause you're totally right.
I wise man once said
"It is very hard to drift a car this low with wide wheels is tough, but if I had to give up the style, I would just give up drifting"
I am determined to make it work on the current setup. Plans are to beat the **** out of this little 13B and replace it with a 1j when she decides to blow.
You can run the 18s, but you'll need a really high tire pressure to keep them spinning.
I wouldn't go with a 3" exhaust, 2.5 is best for NA cars.
What LSD do you have? If it's a S4 then make sure the clutch packs are in good shape or weld it up. If it's an S5 I'd say look at getting a S4.
Run the car as is, if the rear end is snapping too hard on transitions causing you to spin I would look at disabling your rear sway (just remove on of the bolts). It makes the car more predictable and stable, at least to me.
You can run the 18s, but you'll need a really high tire pressure to keep them spinning.
I wouldn't go with a 3" exhaust, 2.5 is best for NA cars.
What LSD do you have? If it's a S4 then make sure the clutch packs are in good shape or weld it up. If it's an S5 I'd say look at getting a S4.
Run the car as is, if the rear end is snapping too hard on transitions causing you to spin I would look at disabling your rear sway (just remove on of the bolts). It makes the car more predictable and stable, at least to me.
Have fun!
I plan on the high tire pressure for sure. I believe the smaller contact patch by not zeroing out the camber should help as well. I have the S5 LSD. would it not be a viable option to just weld it up? As far as the sway bar, I plan on driving as is and then will make that change depending on the feel of the car as you said. Been watching you progress on here for awhile! Cheers!
I plan on the high tire pressure for sure. I believe the smaller contact patch by not zeroing out the camber should help as well. I have the S5 LSD. would it not be a viable option to just weld it up? As far as the sway bar, I plan on driving as is and then will make that change depending on the feel of the car as you said. Been watching you progress on here for awhile! Cheers!
Yeah but negative rear camber may effect snap on transition, I could be wrong. The S5 diff is viscous I believe, not sure how you would go about welding those up unlike an open or the clutch type on the S4.
And thanks! All this talk is making me miss driving. I haven't driven at a dedicated event in a while. Although the next one I make I won't be able to post in this thread since it won't be NA anymore.
