HHTurboVert

Hey guys, I have a few bucks to spend and I want to improve my cars drifting abilities/potential. I'm planning on trying out Adams drift track next Saturday and I'm planning on making a few changes. Right now I'm running some cheap heavy 17" w/ 225/45's. I'm considering using my oem bbs convertible rims with a 215/55/15. I believe stock tire size was 205/60/15. BTW the stock rims were 6.5" wide . Which set will do you think will perform better for a beginner drifter?

As far as suspension,

Right now I have some tokico blues and intrax lowering springs witch lowered the car almost 2" The camber in the front is -1 but its -3.5 in the rear. I was considering buying some adjustable cam type upper strut bolts to dial in another degree of neg. camber in the front and about 1.5 degrees less neg camber in the rear. That should put me at about -2 degrees front and rear.

The other option I'm considering is buying camber plates for the front and dialing in -3 up front to match the rear. I could also combine that with an adjustable camber rod for the rear if I needed a little less camber.

I'm also going to buy some DTSS eliminator bushings, even though my DTSS is still working fine. I love DTSS but seems like most agree that it is not ideal for drifting.

Tell me what you guys think of my options. I'm new to drift and want to spend the little money I have right?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Yes to DTSS, get a rear camber bar and get that rear down to ~-1. I would get the camber plates for the front also instead of the eccentric studs.

laramiejoe

Dude just go drive. Don't buy front camber plates. Maybe do something about the rear camber. Drive with your setup until you can afford coilovers and other cool stuff. Don't worry about wheel weight, etc.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

yes just go and drive !! all u really need is a lsd, power steering and at least 150hp and ur set.. adams track is really for all power levels, make sure your ebrake is strong for that first entry. Seat time is the best, 20/an hour is awesome at adams !

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

What does hp have to do with anything? Especially with Corolla drifters

granolavsrasins

You have to inflate your tires up to 50 psi or more to really kick out the rear in a low powered car. It's better to drift a balanced car with predictable handling, especially at the level of your project.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Definately put those bbs's on.

Less rotational mass=more power to the ground.

You've got the right mindset but you dont want a shitload of rear camber....... It feels pretty good around 1 to 1.5* A basic rear camber link (sublink/rear camber arm) should suit your needs and they're cheap at about $90 for a tcsportline unit. Not sure about how much the others are. I got a mazdatrix (same as tcsportline) for the same price used from a member on here.

Save the rest of your money for tires and track time.

HHTurboVert

Thanks or the tips guys. So I threw on some new rotors and pads last night, however my e-brake seems weak. I don't think it will skid the back tire while going strait. It seems like the hand brake is adjusted at each rear wheel separately, any tips to adjusting it evenly?

HHTurboVert

Well I just remembered that it can be adjusted with that screw under the parking brake lever cover. It that the best place to adjust it?

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

yeah its kinda tricky, you gotta adjust all of them make it even.. sometimes your ebrake cable might be stretched so either tighten it all the way or get a new ebrake cable assembly... try to get it as even as possible left to right... does iit lock up if you try feinting the car then clutch in ebrake?? it should work.. I know mines doesnt lock when its dead on straight, but locks everytime when the car is off balance..

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

It's hard to lock the rear tires with our trailing arm rear suspension. Go hydro e-brake.

granolavsrasins

Hmm, I suggest recalibrating the brake cables and check for any signs of stress such as parts of the wire falling appart. At any rate, it's going to be cheaper to redo the e brake lines than to buy a hydrolic hand brake. If you have a budget, invest in new cables and either supplement the ones you have or buy thicker gauge wire and reassemble the e brake with donated parts so you can always switch back. Either one will give you immediate results but your wallet is ultimately what desides what to do.

granolavsrasins

also, cheap way is to weld the open diff, there's a couple of threads on the matter and are very informative. Good luck

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Hydro is an upgrade while cables are stock replacement. The cheap pay twice...