Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

Well we're actually using the b18a motor, trying to be different. If it comes to the point where we NEED to change the head, then we will, but it will never be VTEC :P , trying to stand out. We're doing a full Brian Crower build, completely redone internals, stroked & possibly bored. I think I should be able to extract more than 150, but we'll see.

At first she'll be a lapping car, eventually want to join some type of organized racing. It's our first Rayzor Image car, hopefully it turns out well enough to project a positive image for our company .

Thanks for all the compliments guys .

Definitely doing all the work ourselves, we've always prided ourselves in that. The motor should be at least 2.2L when we're done. But thanks for the recommendation, might even contact him for his opinion on things if it ever arises.

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

Haha, I know, that's my bro, but to be honest I don't really wear goggles myself (though I do wear glasses MOST of the time nowadays. Been doing this work all my life, and for some reason I just have a bad habit for that...

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

Finally came in from Japan...after a good 4 months




And my helmet


Also picked up Wings West sides & rear (mugen replica kit)...have the real front

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

130-140 flywheel horsepower and 120ft-lbs is a weak starting point, all the money it would take you to get to 150 Flywheel HP, you would be better off just sticking a h22 or something in it. thats a 60-70hp gain i think they make 150ft-lbs or something, that would fly in your gutted car
my buddy has a gutted crx with his 160hp b16, after i put the engine in for him he took me for a ride to show me the power, and i asked him if he had it to the floor....lol I seriously didnt think he did hahahaha


isn't there a term for people who spend a **** load of money on there car's but leave the engine basically stock???
hahaha j/k

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

^^ thats very true, but if you actually want to learn the car. And track it alot. Taht motor is a great starting point.

Once hes comfortable he can upgrade.

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

With our original LS shell (which we ended up using as a DD because we found the RS shell), it's pretty weight reduced, seeing as the sunroof & sound deadening & everything is gone. And It's pretty decent. With our completely gutted shell and the stock b18a i'm sure i'll still put down very decent lap times. I managed to put down a 1:30 or 1:31 at cayuga in a bone stock TL (aside from having lowering springs...stock shocks), and autotragic, and couldn't use the tip-tronic on the time attack because it kept on over-heating. I have no doubt in my mind I could shatter that time even in our DD with just a decent set of tires. So i'm really not worried, as after the build the car should be putting down 200+ to the wheels, HOPING for 250, but we'll see. I actually had a sponsorship to do a complete JUN build on my H22 accord...but that car burnt down...lol, so maybe at a later date, I do still have the motor :P.

And the motor is gonna be far from stock, it'll be bored & stroked, high comp. pistons (probably at least 14:1), racing cams (obviously not VTEC...)...pretty much everything is gonna be custom. Custom fuel system, ITBs, standalone. This won't be one of those cars with a stock motor :P

HiWire

Great pics - good luck with the upgrades!

23Racer

Everything sounds great, but if I could make a few suggestions;

1) keep the compression below 12.5:1. As a new racer you need a lot of track time and nothing gets older faster than dropping $3 a litre for fuel. One hour of track time for my Cougar costs me well over $220 just in fuel alone. Also, the higher octane the fuel is, the harder to get the car to run on it when the temps drop to below 15c. High octane fuel has no low temp volatile aromatics that create vapour pressures at lower temps. Your car won't start at 10c. Ask me how I know, aaarrgh.

2) Definitely upgrade the power, but keep the car as bulletproof a runner as you can. Standalones that need lots of tuning aren't a ton of fun when you are trying to start the car in the rain or cold.

3) Once you have some decent power, suspension and brakes are going to make you faster than anything else. Save a bit of money on the motor and spend it on a really good set of 3 way shocks like Motons, Ohlins or Dynamics. In my opinion there really isn't anything decent from the far east and once you have driven a car with really setup shocks, its hard (and bouncy) to go back. Spend some money on a cockpit adjustible rear bar. Best tuning aid for a FWD car.

4) Invest in some good brakes with cockpit bias bar setups. Best handling will allow you to make the most out of your brakes. Increased rear bias will make you very quick if you can use it.

5) Increase the accuracy of your shifter. Super light flywheels and clutch setups provide a shocking amount of improvement in acceleration.

6) Master your car set up. Alignments and corner weighting can make a world of difference to how you percieve your ride.

Buy a Snell 2005 race helmet. If that HJC isn't Snell 2005, you can't use it in a CASC race. Also, is that seat Snell rated? It needs a Snell or FIA Approval to be used as its a composite seat, just an fyi.

Eric

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't looks like A FIA approved seat

As far as the motor Goes I'd use a Vtec head with Vtec killer Cams (Toda makes it and it disables Vtec 1) A vtec head will outflow a ported non-vtec head 2) Many more options for Cams, Springs and intake manifolds

Imo trying to standout in the honda community is just stupid Now adays Just to spend more money thinking you are building a unique motor then find out at the next meet 2 guys have done the same thing

I'd stick to what works and is proven to make cheap reliable power

If I was building that motor I'd keep the stock Crank/rods get some 12.5-1 pistons get the whole assembly Balanced to 8k, 2001 GSR water pump (has A larger pully so it spins slower at high rpm which means no Cavatating) A stock B16 head with Toda Vtec killer cams, skunk2 or a type r intake manifold with a 64mm throttle body, and a Bisimoto Equal length 4-1 header all tuned on a chipped computer Id imagine it would run about 220whp very reliably on pump gas

As far as suspension goes I agree with Racer23 but anything like that for a honda will be real Pricey koni yellows on H & R race springs will give you a good starting point And get a poly bushing kit they dont cost very much money but will wake up an old car like yours

You will need to get A camber kit 100% no doubt The rear suspension on a DA chassis has retarded Camber gain (something that was corrected in the newer cars)

As far as shifters Go I highly reccommend the Buddy Club short shifter it uses a bearing in the lower pivot of the shifter where the stock honda bushings always wear out and again another poly kit for the shifter in my car I could literally Flick the shifter in gear with one finger And the **** Comes up to the stock position

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

Thanks for all the feedback guys . As for the suspension, we are using Skunk2 Pro-C coilovers...actually pretty much everything suspension related is Skunk2 (sponsorships are awesome :P). I believe we have a Skunk2 short shifter. Will definitely be replacing all of the bushings.

As far as VTEC cams go, the best cams are non-VTEC (like the TODA's as you mentioned), seeing as there are less lobes & therefore less rotational mass...most honda race cars don't run VTEC, since you shouldn't really be in low rpm. But I'd have to use a VTEC head with the TODA cams...so maybe I might have to re-think that part...but we'll see. BC only has stage 2 cams for the B18A...so I might have to search around and see if I can find anything more aggressive. The motor will pretty much be a complete Brian Crower build (once again...sponsorships rule...lol).

I'll definitely look into the 2001 GSR waterpump. As for the intake, we will be running Kinsler ITBs.

The crank and rods definitely will be changing, I'm pretty sure we're going with everything forged. And the stroker kit is gonna require the crank to be changed anyway. Pistons are going to be custom seeing as we'll also be boring the motor a bit, but that's part of the BC package anyway (custom pistons that is...).

I'll also look into keeping the compression lower for cost purposes...but I could always run the 12.5s for a while and upgrade if I feel the need. I will be running water meth also, not 100% sure how much compression I can get away with on pump gas though.

Once again, thanks a bunch for the info guys...I don't mind criticism/advice at all...can only make the car come out better.

To be honest, the build is mainly for one of my younger brothers, so pretty much however he wants it it's gonna be...lol. I could always go to a VTEC head if the non-VTEC just isn't enough.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

looks interesting

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

I'll let you know what I think of the Pro-Cs after I lap with them. This car will never see the street, strictly a track car. So I understand that the ITBs aren't so simple, though some ppl do DD with them :P.

I think the weight difference must mean something seeing as Honda chooses not to use them on their race motors. I believe the higher the rpm, the more of a hindrance the extra lobe would be. So it should allow me to rev faster & higher. We'll see how it goes, I'm not tooo worried...lol. IMO, every little thing makes a difference, because the all come together to give you a noticeable difference.

I had no idea the stock b18a crank was forged :S, but it doesn't really matter seeing as the stroker kit will replace it anyway. I drove a TL at cayuga (only fell out of VTEC when I was braking because I couldn't use the tip-tronic), and my H22 accord at shannonville, and did not fall out of VTEC once. I'm not saying there won't ever be such a turn, but I'm sure I'll find a way around it. The tranny will be changed also, not 100% sure what we're doing yet, but there will be much shorter gears.

I haven't heard of getting a block "pinned", I was just going to use a block guard. The motor is getting BORED and re-sleeved, it will therefore definitely need custom pistons. I'm not too worried about ovalizing, but I will check out getting the block pinned.

How can you not use water meth on an N/A car? I don't see how that's limited to boosted vehicles... It'll help me raise my octane levels & reduce detonation...making it safer for me to run my higher compression.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

For a race car would you really want to rely on a secondary pump for water injection? Do you think it will be reliable to Run At All times On boosted cars it is not run 100% of the time either

if you are getting it sleeved (which is a waste of money on an n/a car regardless of bore) it would already have the option of being a closed deck and would not need a block guard.

Pistons in come ALot of oversize options + .010-.050 over If you are going that large you may as well start with a B20 block which is Identical to a B18 other than having a Larger bore Or you can order B20 pistons that are oversized So no you wont need custom pistons


Rpm's have nothing to do with an extra lobe and in no way will Lower the rev limit because of it being there

Will you be Knife edging the crank?

Dont take this the wrong way it seems you dont know too much about motor building The way you talk about building this motor its going to cost you 8k+ easily

What header do you plan on running?

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

Hey Efini Type, is there any way I can check out these pics somewhere else? It says your Photobucket bandwidth is exceeded... photos too large?

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

I really do want to rely on a secondary pump to boost my octane levels. Whether water meth injection is good for n/a applications is debatable, but I'm sure I'll soon find out. With turbo cars it comes in progressively, based on positive manifold pressure or something along those lines, I'd only be able to run on and off, but that car will rarely be at low rpm anyway. There is a way to rig it up with the EMS to make it switch on at whatever point, still researching that though.

I'm going to be running Darton Sleeves...which sorta closes it I guess (i'm guessing that's what you meant), and yea, I actually won't be needing a block guard with those. I don't really understand what you mean otherwise (if it's not what I stated above, so yea...please expand on that...lol). I don't see how it's a waste of money when you just mentioned that I shouldn't be surprised if the cylinders start to ovalize, this is to prevent that. You sort of contradicted yourself there, no? lol.

I still don't see how the extra lobe wouldn't be more of a hindrance at higher rpm, like I said, if it didn't make a difference, I'm pretty sure honda would be using vtec cams in their race cars.

And this is not a budget build, lol, so it may very well come up to be in and around that area...but sponsorships sorta help a bit with the cost issues.

As for the header, Skunk2 is developing a new one for DA's, which is the one we'll be using.
And I'm not worried about the pistons because they come as a package from Brian Crower, and as I mentioned earlier, they are a sponsor of ours. We will also be getting the crank from them, which is already knife edged.

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

I really would recommend getting a one off tuned header Skunk@ headers are designed to be generic and apply to the most amount of variations possible

The ITB's and the Header are Usually Matched for the most that you can get out of the motor The ITB is usually tuned For the Intake pulse (The length) And the Header is usually tuned for the exhaust pulse (the length)

This is what a proper tuned header looks like

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=h...26tbs%3Disch:1
Bisimoto Builds 200Whp 1.6l Single cams Using 90% stock parts

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

I'll post up another link for you in a little bit

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

The water meth is once again, a matter of opinion...lol, so I will definitely be using it.

Better to have the sleeves last 2 seasons that 1 no? lol.

I know Bisimoto headers are awesome, and a one off header would be nice as it would be tailored to my needs, but Skunk2 is a main sponsor of ours, so we will be sticking with their's for now.

As for the ongoing VTEC discussion, I learned this from a guy who was a very experience N/A H22 builder, so it's not something I just decided seemed like it made sense. I forget the guys name, but he knew his stuff, so I'm gonna take his word for it...and it does make sense. Removing that one lobe will make a difference, no matter how small it may be, everything counts. Here's a super street article on the signal auto CRX, and how it's able to rev higher due to removing the VTEC lobes (toda VTEC killer cams) due to less rotational mass...see, I'm not delusional :P

http://www.superstreetonline.com/fea...crx/index.html

(4th paragraph, about half way through)

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

It seems I've lied...gonna have to wait til the 23rd...lol. Sorry for the inconvenience.

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

damnit, what a total inconvenience. lol jk thats cool

Bwek

iTrader: (4)

They are referring to the fact that the cam is a Hollow Billet core and that it is a Toda cam

I don't get one thing tho How is it that you have 2 Engine sponsors? I'd imagine They would be issues as they are competitors

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

lol, there isn't even any point in arguing anymore. As for the sponsorship, skunk2 doesn't make any bottom end parts really...just bolt-ons & head work, there's nothing they can really do for us with regards to the bottom end. The skunk2 sponsorship is more suspension than engine really, the BC sponsorship covers most of the motor.

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

haha, sorry bout that man. My bro has become a self-proclaimed photographer lately & has been uploading like there's no tomorrow, lol. I should have up some more updates by the time the pics are back up though . I'm practically done the chassis work, so hopefully tomorrow or early next week she gets sent back for coating, then the fibreglass & filler work begins :P.

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

UPDATE :P

I am praying that she is out of my garage on thursday! w00t w00t (last patch & final grinding tomorrow)











Last patch here.. and then she is out!




All thanks to this guy!

Mazda RX-7 EFINI TYPE

Well... shes gone for a couple weeks.

Completely patched up... now she goes for final sandblasting and coating, then a bit of bodywork... and then shipped out again to go see Shawn at Level12

Goodbye my love