thewird

iTrader: (8)

Hmm, how far to port up lol... How much torque do I want to lose...



thewird

TurboMazdaSpeed

to answer your question..





lol

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Well I was mearly asking myself the question but LOL.

thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Hmm wtf, I test fitted the sleeve. The sleeve sits above the stock exhaust port... I compared to to a stock FD rotor housing and the sleeve is correct, however the 20b port points down for some reason... Thinking about just bending the sleeve but I don't like the idea. Gay



thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Done... Torque has been lost



thewird

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

I noticed the same thing when I put a set of TII sleeves in a cosmo housing, I thought it was just me or something. I'd be worried about hot exhaust gas bending that sleeve lip up though... I didn't end up running it for that reason, how easily you think they could be bent down somewhat flush? I imagine a little heat and persuasion would go a long way, plus that can't be good for flow.

Oh and PS, with all this loss of torque you're aiming for, why not just have stayed 13B and saved the weight? :P

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I was thinking about hammering it too. Then Chip told me titanium doesn't melt until 3000*F so I said screw it . It probably looks worse in the picture then it actually is.

As for the torque, I'll bet it still makes at least 450 ft/lbs once I crank up the boost . I've been thinking about my transmission more and more. No matter how I slice it, I do not want more torque, its going to break my transmission. And once I can afford a gearbox, I can gear it to take advantage of the top-end so its a win win. If it was a 13b, I'd be more concerned about the torque.

thewird

Hybrid G

iTrader: (4)

I would not leave the gaps between sleeve and housing, I would fill it with some welding and grind smooth. Any good welder with the right equipment will be able to do it.

Hybrid

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I thought about that but was worried about warping the housing from the heat so decided not to. Chip has run it like this before without issue. The drag racers run sleeveless, I don't think it will be an issue as long as the sleeve doesn't melt. And like I said, it looks worse in the picture then it actually is. I'll take a better one when I finish porting them, its still a rough cut too.

thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Look what came in the mail today. 6 new 2200cc injectors . I have a cheap supplier for these if anyone is interested also. On another note exhaust ports are all done too, only polishing left now.



thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Finally finished porting. All intake and exhaust ports are done and polished. I also made a change to the primary ports. Engine assembly should happen in 2 weeks or so. Just waiting oil control ring seals and new rubber plugs for the corner seals which I forgot to order.

thewird

HiWire

I'd love to see Aaron Cake's Cosmo and your 20B FD roll together someday. Old school, new school, power to spare.

RacerJason

iTrader: (5)

Sharp looking exhaust port... much like what I've seen in many race-dedicated motors.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I got anxious and ordered what I need from Mazda instead of waiting LOL. Motor might be assembled tomorrow depending on my mood. I pressed in all the bearings today and did a final cleaning on all the parts.

thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Alright, so I finally got the motor together. Boy, was it a struggle. After stacking the rear half of the motor, I realized the rear tension bolts had all been machined out so there was no way to flip the motor without it coming apart. I tried putting the studs in and turning the motor slowly with a jack ready to hold it but it separated once there was enough weight on it. Since there was nothing open at midnight, I had to give up and go home. Came back with some custom tools from Home Depot to hold the motor while I flip it. Then I precision engineered an engine stand and resumed the front assembly. After which I realized I had used the special 20b dowels in the rear, I had to flip the motor AGAIN to swap out the dowels and then finally got it together. Anyway picture time....











Custom threaded rod and nut to hold the motor together for flipping



thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Precision engineering at its finest













thewird

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i think i just jizzed in my pants
cant wait to hear that bitch fire up

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Oh, I forgot to mention something. This motor has so much compression that it kicks back on the shaft when I turn it on every pulse LOL. I went very tight on some clearances . It's going to be a monster hehe.

thewird

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Is that a brake drum holding one side of your monster engine?!?!?

Looking good, bet she'll go even better. -jealous-

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Yes, the entire engine is being supported by that brake drum and jack on a chair. The engine is upside down with no tension bolts holding it together. If it the jack were to fail, the whole engine would disassemble itself in sandwhich form .

I had a dream last night, it made 600 rwhp @ 12 psi on the first pull it made to redline lol.

thewird

JDK

iTrader: (8)

Looks good Marco....

10aeRX7

iTrader: (3)

Nice Marco. Its looks so pretty.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Spent some time painting the front . I need to find the same blue that was used on the irons, the Dupli-color engine enamel doesn't have a similar colour...



thewird

TougeSpirit

iTrader: (12)

Excellent progress, it's nice seeing it come together.
One day I will own one of these.. Or an 16x if all goes well.

What are your plans for the rad and ic?

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I'm gonna use my V-mount for now but I might upgrade the rad to something thicker. Intercooler should be fine.

thewird