Your port looks beauty! I think you'll be impressed with the power band just like that. In porting, often less is more.

Just do yourself a favour, use a cut up rotor to check the sideseal trailing end, make sure the tip of it doesn't want to hit the corner of the port as it makes its way back onto the iron, if that makes sense? The corner between IO and IC of the port needs to be fairly square, not a large radius. I found out on my first porting job the hard way!

Taylor

 

I just don't more in the wrong spots haha. Extra torque in the mid is just going to break my tranny and spin tires but in the end both of those problems can be fixed LOL. The side seal won't have issues with this matchup. Thanks for the compliment on the port

thewird

 

i was just talkin about the opening side, I figure its more of a gradual opening, might draw the air in smoother. or I could be wrong and the sudden opening might create a burst or air into the chamber.....now im not even sure lol
I know what you're saying with the closing port,yours should work awesome for your set up .my cars just have the stock twins and a stock hybrid turbo they aren't very efficient in the higher rpms so i just wanted something to increase the midrange but not over do it up top

 

My Dremel decided to die on me on the 3rd primary port :'(. Gonna try replacing the brushes and hopefully that fixes it. Otherwise I gotta buy another one >_>

thewird

 

So I am not the only one that kills them things?(dremels)
I am on #4 myself,and I don't even do engines!They just keep on going..ERRRT!
It's like a Compulsory thing: work on a Rx7,get a dremel..dremel dies,you are done workin on car!
!
in this case you have an Extra Rotor..heh..so you should really be done!..and half way into another car!

 

Going by the trend, it only seems to last 3-4 engines. I'm on my 2nd Dremel 4000, its not even a cheap one either. I was tempted to pull out the 1/4" air grinder but said **** it, I prefer dremel for intake ports, grinder for exhaust.

thewird

 

You need a 1/4" electric die grinder. Dremel isn't nearly up to the task.

 

Yup invest in a jice compressor and aways you go. I have done a few motors makes things go much smoother, specially with some oil mods. Also get some long carbide bits make a huge difference. Well you have been to the shop.

 

I have a 1/4" die grinder and carbide bits. I just don't like using it for the intake. I only use it for the exhaust. Just me being picky again. Gonna just buy another Dremel hehe.

thewird

 

Ok, you guys are either going to love or hate this. But this is the last time my FD will be spinning only 2 wankels. It's smokey due to blown turbo and running rich as hell. I had to start it up without a map sensor, a borrowed a PFC, and main belt as I already sold those LOL.

Funny part is I overheated it after I put it on the trailer. Temp gauge went up to 130* so probably melted some o-rings. Ah well.


thewird

 

On to another fast rocket! Glad to see your one step closer to that 20b

 

where you taking it in that snow storm? I am surprised u even got it up on that trailer in that snow


hybrid

 

It was more difficult reversing it out of its spot, trailer not so bad.

thewird

 

You should have good intake temps with all that snow on the intercooler

 

One step closer to your 20B monster.........

 

I'm pretty bored, whats everyone up to tonight LOL.

thewird

 

Meh, just finished up a catering order, and drank too much coffee. So are you ever gonna put a cage in that thing?

I would have loved to see it blister up the tracks with the 2-rotor in it, but the 20B is going to be even sicker on the track. A lot of the drag guys tend to stick to 2-rotors, and end up with similar or better times vs. 3-rotor due to launching torque among other things (apparently), but I think this thing will really shine in the environment you will put it through. What kind of gearbox you using as of now?

 

No plans for a cage, I don't want to hack up my interior and it adds weight. Right now my car is pretty much a death trap with the carbon fiber doors. Don't wish to argue with anyone on how dumb I am because I will agree with you fully. Once I set some goals I have with the car, I might put one in though.

I might end up taking it to the drag strip at the end of the year just out of curiosity. I wonder if the car will make it that far lol. Right now I'm using stock gearbox, I have a few spares in my basement. I originally wanted a Tremec T-56 Magnum but lately I've been thinking about dog boxes. It's not going to be much of a street car anymore anyway.

thewird

 

Yeah, dog boxes would be sick. You can get T56s faceplated (i.e. dog boxed) to shift more or less clutchless and still have 6 gears, or a cheaper alternative would be a straight-cut T5 dogbox from Gforce, with a nice tall 1st gear for road racing. Thing with the T56 is that 4th gear is still generally 1:1, so you dont gain any gearing advantage except for in overdrive, which sort of defeats the purpose for most motorsports i would think?

The people Ive read using faceplated T56s (even for streetdriving) were very impressed, once you get used to shifting it.

 

I was planning on using these gear ratios with a 4.4 rear-end...

1st - 2.66
2nd - 1.78
3rd - 1.30
4th - 1.00
5th - .80
6th - .62

Compared to OEM JDM on the 4.1 rear...

1st 3.483
2nd 2.015
3rd 1.391
4th 1.000
5th .806

This will give me a max speed of 260 km/h @ 8,000 RPM in 5th gear which is perfect for Mosport and the 20b. 6th gear is really just a highway gear to get some fuel economy to be honest LOL... and maybe to do a 300+ km/h test o.O. So this would provide nice tight gears and be optimized perfect for Mosport and still have a highway gear . Only Mosport & Calabogie will use 5th gear so my top gear on most tracks will be my 1:1 ratio anyway, its just perfect perfect in my books.

However, if I get a dogbox, I'll probably be getting a 5 speed and forget about the highway gear since I can't afford a good 6 speed dogbox atm unless someone has one "cheap"

thewird

 

I'm sure you looked it up by now, but the faceplating is just adding dog-lug engagement to an othewise synchromeshed transmission, allowing you to more or less shift clutchless. (Due to the back-cut on the dogs, in reality a clutch tap is probably required)

I know someone has a 5-speed roadrace box on the canadian for sale forum, but it's not cheap, as you know.

How tall are your tires? Even a 25" tire @ 9000 RPM and .806 5th makes for 300 KM/H (on 4.4 rear like you mentioned, it would be even lower RPM with a 4.1), so I'm not sure you need or would even benefit from the 6 speed unless you want to save money on gas on the highway, which doesn't really sound like the case...

 

Woops, looks like I had put in the wrong number in the tire size. I always use my track tires in my calculations since that is what I care about. Right now that tire is the 295/35/17 Hoosier R6 tire which is a height of 25.3". I actually need a 4.7 rear-end instead after redoing the calculations with the correct tire height. This will give me a max speed of 257.5 km/h @ 8,000 RPM in 5th gear. I could always try a 5.1 rear-end which would make me shift into 6th @ 238 km/h though I don't think I want another gear cause that means I might have to double downshift for corner 8 >_>. A 5.1 would probably be too hard to drive since too much gearbox work and its not like the motor isn't gonna have power lol.... Although I would actually be using the 6th gear at the track, hmm...

I use this site to calculate my speeds as I can put in my own values...

http://www.f-body.org/gears/

thewird

 

you should bring that down to a centralia event , 8km course, 1 mile drag races down the strip.
I want to try to go 300km/h there one day hahahaha

 

Finally started porting again. All the intake ports are rough cut done and I did one of the runners. Things are starting to look good





thewird

 

nice work..