housing still good?
08-28-14, 06:24 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
housing still good?
i decided to rebuild a motor i was debating on keeping or not. i disassembled it and found some things that I'm unsure if there worth worrying about.
the housing have a fair amount of chipping both housing have the same long chip from the bottom to right above the exhaust.
the rotor i think is ok but i figured i might aswell get a professional opinion.
the housing have a fair amount of chipping both housing have the same long chip from the bottom to right above the exhaust.
the rotor i think is ok but i figured i might aswell get a professional opinion.
08-30-14, 12:12 AM
#7
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(Sung to the tune of Sail away.,.by STYX.)
I'm sailing away
toss that housing overboard to the Virgin sea
'cause it looks so Sad..
replace it with another and you'll be free...
Parts don't live forever,,
so the story goes.
They get grooves and wear out. and are bound to go..
But you Tried..oh Lord you Tried...
it'll barely runnnn.....
Once I built an engine
Here in My garage.
a gathering of Keg heads were advising me like mad..
say don't do a 6 port
cause you will need to know
that all them freakin engines
will just surely blow
and they said come Sail away,..
(oh boy..~!)
I'm sailing away
toss that housing overboard to the Virgin sea
'cause it looks so Sad..
replace it with another and you'll be free...
Parts don't live forever,,
so the story goes.
They get grooves and wear out. and are bound to go..
But you Tried..oh Lord you Tried...
it'll barely runnnn.....
Once I built an engine
Here in My garage.
a gathering of Keg heads were advising me like mad..
say don't do a 6 port
cause you will need to know
that all them freakin engines
will just surely blow
and they said come Sail away,..
(oh boy..~!)
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08-30-14, 03:10 PM
#9
I can understand and respect that, note to anyone reading this I live with the OP so I'm just tying to understand etc , what would make these not have compression? I'm not 100% compliant with the bitty gritty logistics of what hinders the capabilitys of a rotary aka a useable housing unusable irons, etc I have looking into the FAQ and other sites just can't find informations that makes sense to me is all! So sorry if anyone thought I'm ignorant or anything just trying to increase my rotary knowledge! Thanks.
08-30-14, 04:23 PM
#10
They look usable but have seen much better days 4 out of 10....I have used housing worst then pictured and would us them in my own engine if I was on a tight budget. With that being said and if I had the funds they would be sent off to Goopy for refinishing....maybe get them to 8 out of 10, matched with some new seals.... rotor looks fine, make sure all the seals move freely as they may have damaged some of the clearances from what ever went though the engine, if they don't rework them until they, Good luck. 
08-31-14, 02:30 PM
#11
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I can understand and respect that, note to anyone reading this I live with the OP so I'm just tying to understand etc , what would make these not have compression? I'm not 100% compliant with the bitty gritty logistics of what hinders the capabilitys of a rotary aka a useable housing unusable irons, etc I have looking into the FAQ and other sites just can't find informations that makes sense to me is all! So sorry if anyone thought I'm ignorant or anything just trying to increase my rotary knowledge! Thanks.
The chrome flaking and radial scratch marks leave gaps that reduce compression. Probably the chatter marks as well. The chrome probably isn't holding as much sealing oil as new and the corner seals will probably go thru the chrome shortly.
The side seals are probably mostly out of spec as well. Even heat expansion of the side seals will leave leaky gaps near the corners.
Wankels are leaky new with all the seals and surface area, it all adds up.
New seals on that housing will be even more down until breakin which will take a while.
As JDK said, goopy refurbishment could remove and restore the surface and compression.
The parts look usable for a budget build BUT will be down on compression.
I've seen budget builds with better housings only get 70psi cold.
The rotor apex slot (black) also looks wider in the top of your pic. Check for a pinch or widening/Veeing of the apex slot(s).
08-31-14, 02:36 PM
#12
The chrome flaking and radial scratch marks leave gaps that reduce compression. Probably the chatter marks as well. The chrome probably isn't holding as much sealing oil as new and the corner seals will probably go thru the chrome shortly. The side seals are probably mostly out of spec as well. Even heat expansion of the side seals will leave leaky gaps near the corners. Wankels are leaky new with all the seals and surface area, it all adds up. New seals on that housing will be even more down until breakin which will take a while. As JDK said, goopy refurbishment could remove and restore the surface and compression. The parts look usable for a budget build BUT will be down on compression. I've seen budget builds with better housings only get 70psi cold. The rotor apex slot (black) also looks wider in the top of your pic. Check for a pinch or widening/Veeing of the apex slot(s).
08-31-14, 05:50 PM
#13
I wouldn't use it in a street car but on an engine that is going to be abused on a track its fine, especially after refinishing. Compression/vacuum will be down but it will still make power. Those little marks on the rotor don't really do anything but make sure you check all the clearances like any other rotor. I'd just file them down the marks a bit if they're not flush.
Basically, it will be a budget build but it will work. So you have to think what the engine is worth to you. Do you want 100% or would you settle for 90-95% with reduced healthy life expectancy. Good used rotor housings aren't that expensive.
thewird
Basically, it will be a budget build but it will work. So you have to think what the engine is worth to you. Do you want 100% or would you settle for 90-95% with reduced healthy life expectancy. Good used rotor housings aren't that expensive.
thewird
09-01-14, 12:19 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
I wouldn't use it in a street car but on an engine that is going to be abused on a track its fine, especially after refinishing. Compression/vacuum will be down but it will still make power. Those little marks on the rotor don't really do anything but make sure you check all the clearances like any other rotor. I'd just file them down the marks a bit if they're not flush.
Basically, it will be a budget build but it will work. So you have to think what the engine is worth to you. Do you want 100% or would you settle for 90-95% with reduced healthy life expectancy. Good used rotor housings aren't that expensive.
thewird
Basically, it will be a budget build but it will work. So you have to think what the engine is worth to you. Do you want 100% or would you settle for 90-95% with reduced healthy life expectancy. Good used rotor housings aren't that expensive.
thewird
so it sounds like ill be ok with a goopy treatment. i will be doing a fairly budget rebuild only because it will most likely be a spare.
i will re use the ra seal that were in the motor because they are fairly new
I'm wondering about using goopys solid corner seals as some of the rubber inserts had been chewed up and one corner seal was in two pieces. so any input on that would be great.
i will do my own research but any direction on whether I'm better off with a bridge or half or even street port car should be just over 400hp.
for more information on my car if it helps any
s4 block no porting at all done
bw s360
megasquirt ms3x w/ffe trigger kit
thanks for all the insight.
09-01-14, 02:10 AM
#15
If you flip the seals around it will prolong the life of the engine a bit also with that worn chrome. But just keep in mind it will always be a budget build using a housing in that condition.
As for the corner seals, just get rid of the rubbers if you don't want to spend $70 for new rubbers (that's the price from Mazda if I recall correctly), it'll work just the same and make zero difference
. I'm sure you could find a used corner seal to replace the broken one. But on another note, if a corner seal broke I'd look very carefully at why that happened.
A street port can achieve most people's goals. Bridging is normally for people that want that lovely idle on the street.
thewird
As for the corner seals, just get rid of the rubbers if you don't want to spend $70 for new rubbers (that's the price from Mazda if I recall correctly), it'll work just the same and make zero difference
. I'm sure you could find a used corner seal to replace the broken one. But on another note, if a corner seal broke I'd look very carefully at why that happened.A street port can achieve most people's goals. Bridging is normally for people that want that lovely idle on the street.
thewird
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