i just bought new battery connecters, they were a nice shiny brass, now the negative one is gettin covered in the white/blue powdery acid ****. is one way its caused is from a cracked battery post? thanks in advance. if someone is inclined, i would like to know of more ways that it can happen also. its one thing i never gave a thought. but is annoying as all hell when it happens.

while i was writing this. i decided to use the search function... i know i know. it brought up couple more questions that the blocks in my head mascarading as wheels churned up.

1) i think i have the start of the 2400 rpm(or something) hesitation. in 4th gear when i hover around 2400-2800 rpm i feel a flutter in the power, very small on/off feeling.
this is a ground problem right?

2) also, am i right in assuming it is most likely caused by a rotton ground wire thats makin the powdery **** on the battery post.

3) anyone have a sientific breakdown of how corrosion starts? lemme try bullshiting my way. im guessing water/condensation gets onto electrically charged metal which causes a chemical reaction. the minerals in the water over time create the powdery deposits which eat at the metal causing alot of resistance. how did i do?

either i just answered my own questions, or i took the time to write this post for a reason. thanks again

chev

 

These batteries are always "venting", ie: very corrosive fumes spew from the battery and corrode nearby unprotected metals. If your battery is over-charging it vents even more than normal. Those gold-coloured battery clamps are particularly vulnerable. (ask me how I know).

You can reduce this by smearing dielectric grease on the posts, clamps and exposed wiring, or even by spraying on Gunk "Plastic coat" or similar products available from Partsource and others.

 

A cracked battery post won't cause this unless the seal between the battery case and post is cracked as well. I assume this is a flooded battery, and not a gell/AGM battery.

The battery is a hostile environment, especailly if it is flooded. Acid vapours tend to come out during operation and will quickly attack any nearby metal. Any polished or shiny metal will quickly tarnish, since the protective oxide layer has been removed to make it shine.

Battery posts, as well as EVERY SINGLE electrical connection in the car should get a good coat of dielectric grease every time you mess with them. The grease goes a long way to preventing corrosion.

Could be many, many things. But grounding is a good place to start. Check the ECU ground, and the boost sensor ground. But the "3800 RPM hesitation" is easy to recognize. It's like the car hits a wall around 3900 RPM, usually under load.

Probably not. Most neglected battery connections are quite corroded, but the lead to lead connection of the terminal and post is basically good.

On a basic level, metal + moisture = corrosion. The actual chemical process has to do with electron transfer and all that, but I'm sure no one actually cares.

Check this out: http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm

 

if it helps what you are seeing is actually "acid condensation". maybe google that or go ask a chemist

 

Don't forget about interactions between dissimilar metals Aaron...

 

k, thanks

ill do the ground wire mod, hopefully that fixes the 'flutter'. the worst part is my stock batt connections were in great shape, as far as i could see anyways, the only reason i changed them was cause of the sereo wire connection... doh. also, the dry chem batts like optimus, do they corrode like this?

 

The AGM batteries (ie. Optima) aren't as bad, but can still corrode. They will vent if severely stressed during charge/discharge.

Don't buy Optima. They're poop. Look at Exide, Deka, etc.

As for dissimilar metals, moisture is still required for form the electrolyte. Dissimilar metals corrode because they form a battery, and one electrode is reduced.

 

I have an AGM battery (Motomaster Eliminator).
Personally I think it's great. It'll crank the car all day long, and I haven't run it down yet
Plus a great warranty...

 

I didn't think you needed much help getting your car to turn over...

 

Nice Jamie... Very nice...

 

doh... i have the same battery, run 1100 watts through it... i wonder if there is something wrong with my rebuilt 90 amp alt. when driving it stays around 13+ volts. seems normal. then again, ill leave this topic alone till i do the ground rewire. thats prolly my biggest prob.

thanks for the replies. i cant imagine not having such a resource at my fingertips!

 

yep... prolly the stereo, funny how i didnt see this a second ago when i replied.

 

By "severely stressed", I mean close to 500A for the typical battery. It's doubtfull that your stereo is going to produce this kind of load.