E-test help
03-08-10, 09:53 AM
#2
Displacement Replacement
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high nox is usually caused by a dirty/inopperable catylitic convertor
maybe take it for a nice drive and blast the crap outta it with some guaranteed to pass
if not try this https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...heat+smog+test
maybe take it for a nice drive and blast the crap outta it with some guaranteed to pass
if not try this https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...heat+smog+test
03-08-10, 12:16 PM
#4
Yes I suspect it's running lean as well. It's been 3 years since it last failed. I don't have the results anymore but the HC was low which further indicates a lean condition. I had replaced the O2 sensor and cleaned the EGR valve but still failed.
Mods that may affect emmissions are:
Apexi intake
DP + muffler
Precat removed but original main cat still in place
Koyo rad
All other emmissions equip working (airpump, acv, egr, etc).
Mods that may affect emmissions are:
Apexi intake
DP + muffler
Precat removed but original main cat still in place
Koyo rad
All other emmissions equip working (airpump, acv, egr, etc).
03-08-10, 01:02 PM
#7
Throw some lowering springs in and then tell them its too low to run on the dyno and get a 2 speed idle.
Are your plugs and wires good? Do you have a misfire? You can try guaranteed to pass but you must follow the directions on the bottle its extremely important. If there is a trace of that or any other fuel system cleaner your car will fail. Its important to add it before you fill up, then fill the tank up to the top so it mixes evenly. Drive until the tank is as empty as you can get it before running out of gas. Fill it up with whats recommended which is 91 for FDs right? Or whatever the owners manual says. But like I said, make sure there are no cleaners, additives or anything in the tank.
Are your plugs and wires good? Do you have a misfire? You can try guaranteed to pass but you must follow the directions on the bottle its extremely important. If there is a trace of that or any other fuel system cleaner your car will fail. Its important to add it before you fill up, then fill the tank up to the top so it mixes evenly. Drive until the tank is as empty as you can get it before running out of gas. Fill it up with whats recommended which is 91 for FDs right? Or whatever the owners manual says. But like I said, make sure there are no cleaners, additives or anything in the tank.
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03-10-10, 02:58 PM
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
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Just had mine tested.See attached results.My car still has original motor,original main cat,BNR turbos,Greddy IC,Power FC and all other emissions stuff on it.I just took the car out of storage, started it and drove about 4 km to the testing station.I had 6 month old fuel and stabiliser,new oil and new plugs(done when I stored the car).
Last time I had the car tested NOx were 456ppm.The car was tested in 2nd gear.After that test I did all my vac lines,tested all solenoids and cleaned the egr valve and passage ways in manifold(as best I could).
This time I asked for it to be tested in 3rd gear--lower rpm and a bit cooler.I think the high CO must be fuel and /or temperature of cat related.
If you want to borrow a good main cat for the test I have a spare.
Last time I had the car tested NOx were 456ppm.The car was tested in 2nd gear.After that test I did all my vac lines,tested all solenoids and cleaned the egr valve and passage ways in manifold(as best I could).
This time I asked for it to be tested in 3rd gear--lower rpm and a bit cooler.I think the high CO must be fuel and /or temperature of cat related.
If you want to borrow a good main cat for the test I have a spare.
03-11-10, 10:08 AM
#15
I had the exact same problem. So I buy this 94 Protege for my GF, the thing runs like a bag, so I give it a tune up, induction clean etc. I go run it on the dyno (I'm DC certified), and it fails so bad on NOX. HC was like 50 which is passing. CO was pretty low and the NOX was a staggering 1600 which is 4 times the limit. So I asked the Emission Repair Tech he said its an o2 sensor but it may be masking the real problem. So I change the sensor, re-run it and sure enough, it fails miserably on all 3 this time. All almost double the limit. Now what was happening since the o2 went bad it ran so bloody lean it fried the cat. Thats why the NOX was so high, during the test it was running so lean that it was producing lower HC and CO numbers but NOX through the roof. I pulled the cat off and cut it open, it was completely empty. I put a new cat on and it still barely passed I have no idea why...i'll probably sell it before it needs to be tested again anyway.
03-11-10, 12:42 PM
#16
The problem is when the o2 sensor goes bad too sometimes it'll mask the real results, it'll give you passing HC and CO but super high NOX.
I had the exact same problem. So I buy this 94 Protege for my GF, the thing runs like a bag, so I give it a tune up, induction clean etc. I go run it on the dyno (I'm DC certified), and it fails so bad on NOX. HC was like 50 which is passing. CO was pretty low and the NOX was a staggering 1600 which is 4 times the limit. So I asked the Emission Repair Tech he said its an o2 sensor but it may be masking the real problem. So I change the sensor, re-run it and sure enough, it fails miserably on all 3 this time. All almost double the limit. Now what was happening since the o2 went bad it ran so bloody lean it fried the cat. Thats why the NOX was so high, during the test it was running so lean that it was producing lower HC and CO numbers but NOX through the roof. I pulled the cat off and cut it open, it was completely empty. I put a new cat on and it still barely passed I have no idea why...i'll probably sell it before it needs to be tested again anyway.
I had the exact same problem. So I buy this 94 Protege for my GF, the thing runs like a bag, so I give it a tune up, induction clean etc. I go run it on the dyno (I'm DC certified), and it fails so bad on NOX. HC was like 50 which is passing. CO was pretty low and the NOX was a staggering 1600 which is 4 times the limit. So I asked the Emission Repair Tech he said its an o2 sensor but it may be masking the real problem. So I change the sensor, re-run it and sure enough, it fails miserably on all 3 this time. All almost double the limit. Now what was happening since the o2 went bad it ran so bloody lean it fried the cat. Thats why the NOX was so high, during the test it was running so lean that it was producing lower HC and CO numbers but NOX through the roof. I pulled the cat off and cut it open, it was completely empty. I put a new cat on and it still barely passed I have no idea why...i'll probably sell it before it needs to be tested again anyway.
There are many other variables which can cause emmissions problems. Too advanced timing will cause high temps which results in high nox. Uneven cylinder (rotor) fueling can cause high nox in one cylinder and high HC on another cylinder which will cause high numbers in both readings. Bad EGR system can contribute to high nox. The actual curb idle and cruise tests are done while the fuel system is in closed loop mode. The ECU in combination with feedback from a good working O2 sensor should produce passing HC readings in closed loop. Airpump, cat, ACV.....etc.
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