where can i get that done in calgary? i can't lower it to stock boost levels, so no boost for me~

 

I've never owned a Turbocharged car and If I have my own way I never will. Im used to N/A. Wide open throttle 100% of the time kinda driving. But In my experience, if you can't drive it hard, dont. I know little bits about forced induction rotaries, and most is some first hand experience, mostly Supercharger experience. But its all the same. Pressurized air forced into a small space not meant for it. You know, it was definetly a man that invented forced induction.

I'll stick with N/A. But on the other hand, I've been juggling the Idea of modifying 3rd Gen Twins onto my Miata. Two TII Turbos are too big to do a twin setup. Reason for this revelation is my new house has only parking for 1 car. So until more parking becomes availiable, I might as make my Miata as much like a rotary as I can.

 

Your Miata will never be a true rotary, but is does make for a great handling sports car. I can say this thing does handle like it's on rails!! With a turbo it'll even be a little rocket. But, none-the-less, most Miata's still have kerchief wearing old ladies driving them, so I hope you're into older women, LOL.

 

Older Experienced Women. Haha. I met these two girls today driving a white first gen Miata today. They were both like my age so I was all over that.



On another note, I met an older couple today driving a 1994 3rd Gen. The guy owned it since new and had only 60,000kms on it. He said he also owned an S5 TII and his son drove an S4 N/A.

 

something is wrong with my boost guage now, it is stuck at 5 psi whether the car is on or off. this means its a problem with the boost guage right? if so i should bring it back to the shop and get a new one.

 

Maybe its plugged? I donno haha. The way we put it on there wasnt exactly professional.

 

take the gauge off and use a piece of vacume line and a basket ball type pump.. see if the gauge can shoot past 5psi, id say blow in the end, but i had a hard time gettin 3psi just check the lines we ran, something might have come apart, you should really get a hose that fits the baby plastic line that goes to the guage. that was a temp fix with what we had. not a permanent fix. one thing im gonna start pushin on yah. FIGURE IT OUT!! yer a smart kid. get your hands dirty, and just see how it all goes together. it very straight forward. you have damn near as much reading knowlegde as me, you just have to put it to good use.

good luck

chev

ps gimme a call when you want to grab your cold air intake. i am getting ready to start packin next weekend. if you dont grab it soon, youll have to wait till i move cause ill pack it

 

Just 3psi, Sean said you could blow better than that.

 

hardy har har... did he tell you that when you were not blowin very good? :p

 

setted the tps to 1 ohm today. then i checked the range.........its maximum is 6.1, but it gets to 6.1 at about a bit more than 1/3 throttle. then stays 6.1 all the way to wot. this means time for new tps doens't it?? and my boost guaged worked again after it boosted...........the car overboosts too easily, so always light on throttle. still don't understand about the lack of power below 4k rpm though, should take a look at the turbo after i can get the car into the garage. the missing throttle plate shouldn't have anything to do with it if the throttle input is smooth. but does it have to do with rev matching in low rpms? the revs seem so unresponsive. or is it that the range of the tps goes up too fast?

 

Hmm I can't remember what the range of the TPS is. Do a search 6v might be fine. However I don't think the fact it goes to 6v is a problem. That's the way the S4 tps and throttle linkage works. It's kind of an on/off type deal. That's why the S5 is such a better unit. I use a gm sensor supplied with my Haltech and even it sucks when compared to the S5 unit.

 

i adjusted the tps according to fc3spro. it is suppose to be at 5 in wot +/- 1. 6.5 at wot will cause high rpm hesistations. its not the 6.1 i am worried about. it is the fact that it is 6.1 from about 1/3 throttle to full throttle.....i am also wondering if the twin scroll broke would it cause the lack of power in low rpms??

 

Wasnt the secondary throttle plate removed from your throttle body? Wouldn't that cause low RPM hesitation?

Its just like my N/A without the 5/6 Port acuators installed. It hesitates below 4000 RPM.

 

i didnt look, but see if the twin scrool actuator is even there... i have a feeling if the guy took the time to take out the rats nest and do the tb mod, he might have removed the twin scroll also

 

i read on fc3spro that the there are suppose to be hesitations under 3k rpm with abrupt throttle input. i thought i wasn't very 'abrupt' when i tried it(other than rev matching) but i guess i'll try again when i get some gas money......i see all the boost building, but it just wouldn't go until 4k. can anyone answer my question about the tps?

 

Like I said the fact it goes to it's maximum volts (6v) at 1/3 throttle input sounds normal to me. I don't remember having similiar issues when I did the throttle body mod. Did you get rid of all the dashpots and **** assosiated with the thermowax? I have a feeling you need to look somewhere else. The twin scroll maybe the place to start. Check it over. Make sure either everything is there or everything is removed. If you do not have the selenoid and you do have the actuator, it may be the case the actuator is keeping the twin scroll from opening. Or perhaps the twin scroll actuator is broken, or stuck etc. Throw a pump on it and see what happens.

 

i didn't do the tb mod myself so i wouldn't know. i'll definitely take a look at the twin scroll first when i get organized from moving. for now the car runs fine under normal driving.

 

so funny. i noticed that there is no vacuum line going into the boost controller, only the one going out........

 

hooked it back up. now there is no sudden burst of speed at 4k rpm. it still isn't responsive enough at low rpms, like below 2k. the idle drops very low when i brake. it would die if the car isn't warmed up. is this just normal from not having a bac valve?

 

got the cold air intake in again. noticed the power builds sooner and its overboosting like crazy again. but tonight a friendly motorcyclist noticed that i was leaking gas when i take sharp turns. when i got home since there are no streetlights yet where i live it was hard to see. i took a sharp U and didn't notice any gas. took the blue flashlight to the gas tank and noticed a part seems darker than the other parts, have to take a look tmr when there is some light.............

 

comparing to a normal car my revs drop slower than normal. the tps is set right, i just removed the dashpot, but i don't notice a difference. wat else could it be? it had been like this for a while, just that when i set the tps it was better, so i thought it was normal.

 

holy murphy, quick someone change this thread to jays life story! are you sure your friend didnt just see water that was sitting on the undercarrige somewhere? if you are losing gas i can bet your prolly getting baked in the cabin. i had a gas leak in my vw beetle, very nasty to drive with it. if you cant atleast smell a strong presents of gas when exiting the vehical, chalk your friend up to being a drama queen. if you can smell gas, LOOK FOR THE LEAK IN THE SUNLIGHT! i told you before buddy, take the initiative. its is really easy after your hands get dirty. honestly i found it impowering.

good luck,

also, the idle drop thing, bac has another thing atached to it that balances electrical load. this is also removed on your car, so i would check your alt for production, if it produces less than 45-50 amps, yer prolly gonna want to get a new one sooner than later, someone correct me if im wrong, but if your not dipping below 500rpm and the car doesnt stall, i would think its pretty normal. chrisNG set my idle quite good for having a 1200watt stereo and rebuilt to 90amp alt. its dips 100rpm once and a while, but never affects anything. really though, ironing out the gas thing, and trying a new tps(if still not workin proper) would be top priorty.

i would really keep using the stock intake i gave you till you get some fuel managment. i think you will find all of us a little less reseptive when you pop your motor and want help rebiulding after we "told yah so"

your car has plenty of nuts for what you have, its faster than mine!, the only thin i got on you is my boost hits 1k earlier..

i move this weekend so if yah want we can tinker with it in my new garage in a couple weeks if yah want.

 

i actually i ended up fixing most of the things haha. except for the boost guage. using the new tid for a bit already, it does build boost better, so i am never more than half throttle basically. i am saving up for a haltech already, but it'll be a while with the gas prices! just messed around and somehow the revs drop nicer, but then my car idles at 500 rpm now. and since the rpms drop so much when i brake...........so yeah i am kinda stuck. because since i think the only thing that i could play with to fix that is the idle adjust screw, but i got it all the way in that is how high it manages to idle. right now i just give it a little gas when it drops to almost zero, so when the car is fully stopped it settles down. mabe turn the idle mixture screw all the way to L? also did another "screw in the vacuum line" fix for another vac leak i found.

 

fixed the damn idle. but now my boost guage is like beyond 20 psi and stuck there after my friend played with it.