I can see that is a stuffed bunny in a car Just want to know where the bunny is from, since it looks familiar.

 

The bunny's name is Greg he's freakin hillarous

 

another ic pipe blew off tonight. gd i had some more clamps haha. the car creeped to 13-14 psi going uphill in third. gotta set the boost lower.....i am also begining to think the lag could also be from too much fuel?

 

if someone wants to take a look at my car in their spare time that would be kool, it's running pretty decent but when the revvs drop they drop a little too far then come back up....

all in all the car runs good but i'm guessing my TPS needs to be adjusted, anyone interested in helping?...

i have today ( monday ) off, whole day....

once again if anyone's interested, LOL!...

 

you mean when you clutch in, the revs drop below idle then jump back up? i have the same thing!

 

no just when i revv it or come to a light and take it out of gear, the revvs drop too 500-400rpm's then come back up.... it's very odd i dunno why it does this....

 

i dun't quite understand about reving it up, but yeah when i put it out of gear it does that, except drops a bit lower than that..........i can tell you for sure my tps has a problem, whether that is the direct cause i am not positive.

 

your tps will not cause your idle dropping when coming to a stop...

 

I can't say for sure if all models of BAC valves have an adjustment screw but that might help ya out a bit. I know with my Haltech if the max open time isnt set high enough that will occur. Try turning the adjustment screw on the side of the BAC valve and see if that makes a difference.

 

dont think i have a BAV valve, well, needless to say when the car's kold i have to keep my foot on the gas or it'll die, then when it's warm it'll idle perfectly fine....

revvs only dip when the revvs come down....

 

Then that is most likely the problem. Your relying entirely on the throttle stop for idle control. Now with your FCON (I am not all that familiar with it) you may be able to add or lower the fuel during that weird map point and eliminate some of that. Chris would be better to help since he didnt run a BAC for awhile either, he's since rigged up a kind of genius idle control valve. I know that if my BAC settings are not right I will get that exact problem.

 

lol what i was goin to say flew right out the nogan! i was askin chris... right, check to see if you have a twinscroll still. it could be part of the prob if it was removed and left wide open. not the whole problem, chris says. but could contribute.

you prolly want to be very careful boosting anything above 8-10psi w/o some kind of fuel control. yer running dangerously lean at those levels.

 

should be okay as long as it doens't go over 10 psi with the walboro.

 

"should be ok" Like I said live and learn. I learnt the hard way "should be ok" doesnt always cut it. I suggest you learn from my mistake and not make your own, otherwise there will be a whole bunch of people saying "i told you so"

 

oh, cause i read it would run slightly rich at 10 psi.

 

Is the person who gave you that advice going to pay for your rebuild if you blow the motor?

That's the problem. While there are some people on this forum who don't know ****, and freely spout that ****, there are some who know what their talking about. However even when I'm listening to the people I believe to know their stuff I still take it all with a grain of salt. To many variables man, we live at different altitude, different gas maybe, car mods they forgot to tell you about, I could go on and on. Cover your own ***. Keep the boost low till you either a)buy yourself a wideband or b)get to a dyno with a wideband. I know it's hard to drive a car easy that wants to go so bad (believe me) but imagine all the down time with NO driving if you pop the motor.

 

so 8 psi?

 

I think its more or less how much you put your foot into it as apposed to how much PSI you max out at with wide open throttle.

 

Why?

Please don't say things like that, that's how the forum gets so crammed with bullshit. What your saying is that "Uh ok you can run at 10psi with an a/f ratio of 15:1 as long as you don't do it alot" That's retarded. Furthermore if you have your car tuned properly say 10.5:1 at 10psi then it doesnt really matter how often you go wide open throttle to 10psi you will always have the fuel(provided nothings changed). That's what I'm tyring to say here. Is 8psi safe? I have no idea, you have no idea, maybe, probably, should be, all statements that do you no good after the motor grenades itself. Untill you get a wideband hooked up your guessing plain and simple. I have been around this forum for a bit, not as long as some but......I've seen PLENTY of people come turn the boost up without any regard or use of a wideband and poof, next thing you see is the car up in the for sale section. Believe me when I tell you it's happened alot.

 

So driving your car wide open untuned without a wideband is retarded?

His car is untuned. Futhermore, its got maybe 1000kms on the engine. He doesnt have a wide band. He wants to know whats a safe PSI to drive around with untuned without a wideband incase he does have to load up the engine. As an added bonus, when It got into our hands, it was in absolute terrible shape. How it ran is beyond me. Who knows the damage that shop caused. So ya, It all depends on how much you put your foot into it as apposed to how much PSI you max out at with wide open throttle. I'd feel much safer running around with half-pedal then punching it all the time until it gets tuned. Thats all I said.

 

but wasn't this the shop that you've defended tooth and nail about ? the same shop who told you that we staged certain situations to make them look bad?

 

I defend them until I fell victim to them. And that was quite awhile ago. I dont wish to share specifics of conversation between customer and client.

But I wish to apologize to rx7turbo2. I was kinda grumpy earlier to say the least. Hes absolutely right, but I feel a tiny bit offended by what he said. Alls I was saying was drive it lightly if your not sure. In his reply, words like 'bullshit' and 'retarded' appeared. I dont really appriciate that. If Im wrong, say Im wrong.

Sorry buddy.

 

No worries, wasnt my intention to offend I use words like that in regular conversation, the right tone is hard to get across with a keyboard.

I've just seen way to many people take advice from this forum that starts "You should be fine at Xpsi" only to find the motor blown a day later. It really does happen alot. I do
agree that if it's untuned, and a new motor he should take it easy. Perhaps we were arguing different sides of the same coin.

I don't know the details of the situation with the shop in question (although it probably isnt that hard to figure out) And I don't care. It's the same old **** with them just a new day and a new excustomer (my opinion of course). Maybe people will learn maybe they won't.

 

well, i have 1.7k km roughly on the engine. today i found another problem. the pipe connected to the turbo cracked apart from being all deformed.

 

When Graham says you're retarded, it's just his way of saying he likes you.

Yeah, you can never just say n-psi is safe or not. In my limited experience, I worry more about the volume of air moving thru the system rather than what pressure it is at. I'm no mechanic, but in my mind I see the fueling breakdown occuring at high CFM, not neccessarily high boost (within reason).

It is nonetheless a dangerous path, and I am currently on it. I overboost consistently in the lower rev range (to 0.9bar) on stock ecu. Luckily for me (but not for my wallet) my 2ndary turbo does not spool up properly, so my boost levels decrease a lot above 4800rpm, keeping me relatively safe. Well, that's the wrong word...it's never safe.
So my little nugget is: Stay off the WOT boost at higher revs. Try to control yourself at lower revs. Get a WB measure of AFR ASAP. I need to do the same.