diesel667

I'm looking to build a s5 turbo 2. I have made a list of the things I want to do and I've done as much research as I can think of to do on the parts I have in mind. I need any advice on the brands that I have in mind to buy before I purchase them so I know I'm getting the right things. here is a list of parts and brand names I have so far.
Apexi N1 exsaust system, hks mega flow intake, fluidyne radiator, flexalight heavy duty oil cooler, hks intercooler kit, tein type flex per coilovers, alminum drive shaft,eibach camber kit front, jic camber kit rear, stance super angle tie rod, k-sport front brake kit 14" rotors 8 piston, suspension techniques sway bars, cusco strut bars. Any advice on what I have planned to to do please let me know your opinion and knowledge. Thank you

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

You're kind of all over the place with your parts list. It's good you are focusing on cooling, braking and suspension before power. What are your intentions for the car? Full caged race car, Trailer queen show car, Weekend street/track, daily driver, pizza delivery?

Apexi N1 exhaust system - Good flow. There are many other similar options out there. My personal preference, I don't like the sound/noise of single exit exhausts
hks mega flow intake - Minimal power gain, if any. Looks much cooler than stock.
fluidyne radiator - Good choice.
flexalight heavy duty oil cooler - Overkill for anything other than an all-out track car
hks intercooler kit - Good kit, but very pricey
tein type flex per coilovers - Good choice. I have them and like them a lot.
alminum drive shaft - not necessary
eibach camber kit front - usually camber bolts are inconsistent to set and can slip. Go for camber plates if you want more front camber. Which you do.
jic camber kit rear - Good idea when lowering the rear. JIC is a pricey brand for what you are getting with this component.
stance super angle tie rod - Useful for drifting only.
k-sport front brake kit 14" rotors 8 piston - Really overkill.
suspension techniques sway bars - Good. Other brands are comparable as well.
cusco strut bars. - Helpful, but again, you're paying for a brand name.

Honestly, this sounds like an upgrade list from Gran Turismo 5.

jimmydanny

What I would have used:

-Racingbeat REV TII Exhaust - nice sound, better flow, increase in boost. Fuel Cut Defender necessary if no standalone is present
-Koyo Radiator - might be pricey but I'd say it's worth it
-Stock oil cooler - Yes, even FD people swap to FC oil coolers. Stick to it
-Buy a fake HKS kit for half the price, the flow wont be much worse, it will work just as well
-Tein SuperStreet coilovers - cheaper than the MONO Flex ones, and probably works just as well for you. Cheaper? Did I mention 600£ cheaper in the UK? ALOT cheaper!
-Stock driveshaft - Don't see the need for a alu one, unless yours is broken and you want changable u-joints
-same as RXSpeed
-same as RXSpeed
-No need for super angle, when you meet corners that you need more angle, drive slower.
-Stock brakes works pretty well for a good while. New discs (slotted in example) and new pads, like green stuff or yellow stuff, you'd be grand for some more HP
-I'd go for Racing Beat sway bars, just because I know they do their job and are cheap, and also because I don't knwow the price of the ST ones.
-The TC Sportlines ones on Mazdatrix definately does the same job as the Cusco, but I bet the price is noticably lower

Just me two cents.

diesel667

Its funny you say that I play a lot of forza motor sports 1-4. Sorry about the scrambled list wasn't really sure where to start. I have another list of more exstensive things I'm going to do in the engine department, I'm just holding off on it untill I rebuild the engine.
I plan on using the car for a daily driver, and I'm looking into start out doing auto cross, hopefully get into track racing evently. So I am trying to keep it street legal.
I will cross off the drive shaft and tie rod not looking to drift. Any sugestion on a different air intake? Btw the n1 is dual if that has a bearing. and last what do you sugest for brakes?

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

No appologies necessary Planning is key when upgrading the car. You also may want to consider creating a budget and look at the total. With all these name brand parts, it's going to be pricey and you can get very similar performance with other brands or buying used parts. Just food for thought.

Learning to drive the car at its limit is a lot of fun and is ultimately the skill needed to go fast. When you upgrade the car a lot, those limits are much higher and it becomes dangerous to play around with. I'd suggest drive it for a while in stock form and get to know it.

I run a Racing Beat RevII dual exhaust and I love it. Other brands sound tinny or just too loud for my tastes.

Gains from air intakes are minimal unless you replace the turbo inlet duct. Most brands are comparable. Just pick your favorite color.

The 4-piston brakes that came with the car are quite good. Everybody makes pads for them in all different compounds. Daily driving and autocross, you want something with low operating temp and good bite (Hawk HPS, EBC Green, etc...) I swap to Hawk HP+ pads before a track weekend because they are more durable, but squeal badly on a daily driver.

Regarding internal engine mods. They are relatively expensive for the performance gain. Especially in a turbo car that you can up the boost or swap out a bigger turbo relatively easily. Then you have to address fuel delivery...

diesel667

Ok that's helpful info. I was already planning on driving the car stock for awhile for that very reason other than maybe radiator intake and exuast. Thanks for the advice on that though it is a good idea and I might not have thought of it.
I will look into getting the racing beat exsaust instead. Any ideas where I can find the turbo inlet duct? Also I have on my list for when I do the engine rebuild the hp-3 turbo kit, I have a sr ultimate 2 fuel pump as well.. I'm really lost as to what to use for a fuel set up at that point? What size injectors I should use? Am I going to need a fuel regulator? Hope I'm not to overwhelming.. kinda new to all this.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The advice on tracking the budget is wise as you can easily throw $10k at a car that will still be worth only $3,500. It sucks when your car is worth a lot more parted out than rollling! LOL. And even if you do decide to spend $10k (I have) on your $3,500 car youll want to talk to your insurance agent or a specialty insurer about a stated value policy. Youll think the car is worth $10k, a buyer would think its worth $3,500 and if it is totaled or stolen your insurer will think it was worth $785.00. Bastards! LOL

I wouldnt worry about injectors at this point. You'll need to RTek the ECU ($450) or a standalone (thousands) before you can use them.

Good luck with your project!

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

btw, since you're in Eugene you might want to make an appt at Pineapple Racing up in Troutdale to have them do a used car inspection on it. That way you can get an honest, expert, third party assessment. And while it would suck, they may discover some scary monster hiding somewhere in the car. But better to know about it than to be surprised while DDing to work!

diesel667

Yeah I'm looking to spend about 15,000 to 20 but that's body kits and everything else that I plan on doing. I was looking at the hks stand alone? Spendy but I would think it would be worth it. I'm trying to achive 500-550 hp not sure if I will even be close to that but that's my goal.

diesel667

Btw I don't even have the car yet I'm looking to buy one in august.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

^This is why I thought it sounded like an upgrade list from a video game. You can't just drive it into the shop, fade out, fade in, minus 15,000 credits,....race car.

As far as advice for your build, there is so much information on the internet and this forum that you can find almost everything you need. It's really hard to answer such specific questions, when you don't have a concrete plan. Hell, you don't even have the car yet!

For example, "running with radiator, intake and exhaust" isn't nearly as simple as it sounds.
1. Intake and exhaust allow the car to run more boost due to undersized wastegate system.
2. Wastegate must be ported to control boost.
3. Fuel cut defenser or chipped ecu is needed to avoid the stock overboost fuel cut.
4. Increased boost may need larger injectors and fuel pump.
5. Larger injectors need some type of control.
6. Controllers need programming.

And I did not discover any of these things. It's all stuff people have shared on the forum through build threads, dyno charts, part reviews, suggestions from people who race, builders who see lots of cars. If you're serious about doing this, search button will be your friend. Good luck with the build!

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

....lol.

ROTAge244

ok, let's start with the basic theory of a 500-550 HP 13b circa 1989-91



and before the I get flamed, yes I know there should be another spark plug, let me ctrl+c in peace

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

you ever think of the corksport radiator? it is a 63mm which is larger than fluidyne and less expensive...

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

You don't have the car yet; do you expect to easily find a series 5 turbo?

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

maybe he is going to buy a s5 motor swap regardless of what model he gets?

ROTAge244

either way make room in the budget for some machine shop time and some beefy doweling

nvmarx

iTrader: (1)

full of win