j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i just ran the new relocated cable to the starter and left everything else, dual batteries rule!

rotaryride

Could you post of pic of how you ran that relocation? I just want to see it.
Thanks.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

I haven't actually done any more work on the battery yet, been too cold out and I still need to unload the hatch of parts first. Right now, the hatch has the resonator (previously called the ghetto cat) and ghetto downpipe (made by the previous owner). Luckily, the Cosmo downpipe exits VERY close to where the S4 NA manifold came out, so the ghetto downpipe should line up rather well.

Anyway, I'm in need of another engine mount before I can proceed on the rest. When dropping the engine back in a couple weeks ago, I tore the last original mount in half. Right now, it's sitting on the one I got from 87-t66, and the nub remnant of the torn one. Once that's resolved and the exhaust on, I can take it off of jack stands, finish up the wiring and so on. As for today, just waiting on my paycheck to arrive in the mail so I can hot-foot it to Jegs to get the last adapter fitting needed on the car.

When I bought the engine in the spring, it didn't include the turbos so I found two sets elsewhere. That left me with missing part of the oil supply line, the one that connects to the block via a 14x1.5 banjo bolt and on the other end, another m14x1.5 fitting. The block fitting is a cinch to solve, but the turbos' hardline had me stumped.

After searching till my eyes bled, I finally found a solution thanks to our fellow twin turbo enthusiasts in the Mitsubishi pond here: http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/metric-...-thead-404346/

Earl's makes a Female M14x1.5 to Male AN6 adapter. And thanks to the previous google session for the oil pressure problem,I found that Jegs also carries M14x1.5 banjo bolts and the proper fittings with...you guessed it...AN6 fittings on the neck. But I found an even better solution for much less: A M14x1.5 male to AN06 male adapter

Hardline M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter fitting, Part# ERL-9894DBH, $11.99
Block M14x1.5 to AN6 adapter fitting, Part# 361-991954, $6.99
5ft of Jegs Push-Loc AN06 hose in red, Part# 555-102110, $12.99
Jegs Push-loc AN06 straight fitting, Part# 555-100051 $3.99
Jegs Push-loc AN06 90 degree fitting, Part# 555-100071 $9.99

On a side note, the block to AN6 adapter is a common GM part used on TBI engines. Russel part#799-670520 is the same thing, but a couple bucks cheaper. Total cost: $46 to convert a bastard line to AN

And who said converting to AN lines had to be expensive?

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I read something about people using FD water pumps and drilling a new hole... something like that.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

my engine had both holes drilled, so to fit the FC pump, all i had to do was move it. mine was an early engine though

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Mine was a bolt-on fit for a FC water pump. It's a Pre-A code though, and the extra stud is going to be re-used as a binding point for the P-clip that'll keep the turbo coolant lines out of the alternator belt's way.

On a side note, I'd like to mention that I received my new stereo yesterday afternoon. Logan at Defined Autoworks had ordered it for me from Sonic Electronix after mine was stolen while the car was at the shop. Also, he's giving me a complete 20b Cosmo OMP system, from pump to injectors in place of the stereo trim. This'll save me a TON of time and work carving out a blockoff plate and trying to adapt a S4NA one in the spring. And since he had it on hand, that'll save him the time/money/effort to find the trim, so everyone wins.

All things considered, Logan's a pretty cool guy and if you were negatively swayed by my business feedback thread here, you really should give him another look. Honestly, how many businesses would make you whole like this? Logan, you've definitely earned me back as a customer.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Since it was a whole ONE DEGREE when I woke up this morning, I'm probably not gonna be any outside work on the car today. So while bumbling around the 20b section, I found some AMAZING info, courtesy of Arghx and DRHM. All pictures are copyright of their respective owners

Here we have Exhibit 1 from Arghx, Compressor Maps for the 20B-REW Cosmo Twin Turbos:


Here's Exhibit 2 from Arghx, a Dyno Graph showing Torque vs Boost Pressure vs RPM for the 20B-REW with its twins, a Twin-Scroll S4T2-style single turbo and running N/A


And for Exhibit 3, from DRHM, a 20B-REW Cosmo Dyno run with pod filters, upgraded intercooler, exhaust, a chipped NF01 ECU running 12psi and retaining the Automatic Transmission. He really shows how impressive the 20B and its twin turbos can be, with only basic stuff.


I've requested that Evil Aviator compile these into a single 20B-REW FAQ thread, including a link here, for all that want to use the twins. It's really good info for anyone wanting to approach the twins the right way.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Today was a minor wiring day, but will be major progress in the long run. Anyone converting over to a haltech in their FC should take special note as this is how you keep things like your gauges and wipers working correctly. I did this the correct way, by de-pinning the connector with pocket knife tweezers and tagging the pins with where they came from for the next owner's convenience.

In the emissions harness, there are two connectors, FEM-01 and FEM-02, that connect to the front harness. They're both orange on the S4 and will be the ones to pay attention to. FEM-01 contains the wiper/washer, subzero motor and cruise control actuator wiring.

in FEM-01, here is what you want to keep
Windshield Wipers/Washer: Blue, Blue/red, blue/yellow, blue/white, Black (under locking tab) (Black six-pin rectangle connector with five pins filled)
Cruise Control Actuator: Green, green/white, green/yellow, green/black (Square white connector)
Subzero Motor (optional) black/red and black/red (white T-shape connector like the S4 Alternator)

De-pin the White/Black and Black/White wires, tag them and you're done there.

As for the gauges, the only one that runs through the FEM-02 connector is the Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit sender (rear iron temp sender). Oil Pressure is in the Engine Harness (not the Emission Harness), Volt Meter is part of the Front Harness and the Fuel Gauge is in the Rear Harness. On a stock S4, the Tachometer is fed by the Trailing coil, but I'm delegating it to the Haltech for simplicity. All of the warning lights are part of the Meter Harness and will work like stock as well.

In the FEM-02 connector, The Coolant Gauge Unit Sender is the Yellow/White wire on the end in the upper row. It's opposite the red/black wire and above the brown/yellow wire.

The rest of FEM-02 are items being replaced by the Haltech (Ignition/Injectors), Being bypassed (Inhibitor switch, Clutch Switch) or being eliminated entirely (Emissions Solenoids/Valves/etc)

Rather than de-pin the rest of the connector and fillet the harness further to extract a single wire and bullet connector (which had broken off at the pin on FEM-02), what I did was get another matching connector. Last time I hit the local PicknPull to get injector connectors, I spied an early 90s Geo Tracker that had the radio missing. The connector looked like one of our logicon connectors, so I cut it off with a couple inches of wire.

Lo and behold, it's IDENTICAL to the FEM-02 connector on the Emission Harness and has pins in every single opening. If you'd like to get a new one, it is Scosche part#IM01RB and is one of the few harnesses that Sonic Electronix doesn't seem to stock. For the lame-os at Best Buy, tell them you have a 1990 Geo Tracker and someone butchered the stereo wiring.

Also, I'd like to announce another discovery. In the Emission Harness, the two ECU connectors are branded AMP (made by Tyco Electronics). Haven't found the exact part numbers, but I will look carefully at them if someone would like to know.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

we found that many moons ago. at the time you had to buy like 1000 at a time, so um we've got a few, somewhere....

it IS nice when you can make a nice plug in harness

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Thanks to Logan at Defined Autoworks, I got another engine mount, 20b OMP (with pigtail and connectors!) and FD Coolant Temperature Gauge sender. One of the lines is broken on the OMP, but I should be able to swap over one of the S4's lines to make it work.

Major props to Logan for helping me out on the engine mount and gauge sender. You REALLY saved me there, especially from trying to pull one from a junkyard miata in the snow. That was worth the $15 alone. And for the engine mount, I couldn't find another stock one anywhere nearby other than the stealerships, so mad props there.

If someone's looking for a FC part and can't seem to find it, send a PM to GTORX7. (with the period). If he doesn't have one, he probably knows someone that does.

Now that it's dark and cold enough outside, time to go put in the new mount

nevertolow

i see you started the swap on the 12th day as well lol. nice and dark. lol just like a 18 year kid on christmas eve.
kid "mom, i want the big present"
mom "no son"
kid "damn it mom! i know its a 20b!! stop ******* with me!!!"
mom "its not a 20b i swear!"
kid "hurry up and go to sleep"

4 hours later...

mom "what the **** is that noise!!! that ***** loud!!"
mom walks out into the garage...
kid "see mom i told you it was a ****** 20b!! ohh...... yeeaaahhhh!!! SLIDE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... **** I NEEDED NEW TIRES.."
kid then says in his head.... im taking them off of her car once she goes back to bed! muahahaha...


i have no idea where that just came from. its 330 in the morning, nothing to do. and im not as lucky as you to get a 20b.. sry for bein a page ***** lol good luck man

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Hit a MAJOR snag today with the primary injectors. O'reily Auto Parts is trying to get me the following:

NF02-13-257A: Seal, Injector (according to some macedonian site, of all places lol)

These are the bastard grommets that fit the uppermost lip on the 13B-RE and 20B-REW Primary injector holes. After dealing with them, I decided to call a bunch of dealers up on the west coast as it was past 6pm here (Malloy Mazda's parts department was already closed), hoping that one could find them. No such luck though. One dealer in Laguna Beach, CA tried telling me there's no such thing as a 1990 Cosmo All the rest, save for one, had no clue what it went to either. And the one that recognized it is in....

ALASKA!!!!

Yes, Continental Mazda of Anchorage, Alaska was the only dealer on the west coast that said it was for a 20b Cosmo. The downside is that he said they were out of production and suggested I grab them on yahoo auctions japan (where I've found them before). Too bad I didn't ask him if he could see Russia from his house

So after getting nowhere today, I called up Mazdatrix and found they're on backorder with a minimum 30-day lead time. That's the exact same thing they told me about the turbo gaskets too.

Oreily's asked me to come in tomorrow to doublecheck the fax they're supposed to receive from Mazda, so they order the right parts this time. And if it does end up being the right one, we'll have a new source for the apparently out-of-production injector seals. If they are the right parts, can someone say stockpile? lol

And if not, which is probably more likely to happen, I've got one final, distant hope...

I sent an email to Jay Leno's Garage via NBC Studios. As you may know, he has a L10B Cosmo and needed a new windshield a few years ago. Someone in the rotary community sent him the windshield from their own Cosmo so he could get three more made. While shipping the original back, it was broken so Jay sent the owner one of the brand new ones. I know it's a longshot, well more of a no-way-in-hell-shot, but in the chance as infinitesimal as it could be that Jay Leno does see that email and responds, we just might see reproduction parts like these. After all, he owes the rotary community a debt of gratitude and what better way to say thank you than to give back to the community with stuff that was discontinued.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Well, O'reilys never received a fax from Mazda, so I called around trying to find the seals (NF02-13-257A). First off was Mazdatrix, who explained it'd be a minimum 30 day wait (said the same thing about the 20B turbo gaskets). Mazdaspeed said the same thing, quoted me the racer's price of $3.10 each, but refused to get them since I'm not a member even though it's a normal replacement part. When I asked him why, he said to contact the legal department. So after that spat, I gave Mazda corporate a call. The person I spoke to was helpful, and said that what the Mazdaspeed guy told me made no sense at all, and suggested we put together a group buy.

In the meantime, Logan at Defined Autoworks suggested using the FD Injector Seals (N3A1-13-257) and said the FD center iron's injector ports are machined the same as a Cosmo one. Since the Cosmo uses two seals per port in the primaries with one in the secondaries and the FD is the exact opposite, I'm a tad skeptical about how well it'd work. I'll know for certain on monday when those arrive at Oreilys though.

I've called up several dealers. D. Dahle Mazda in Salt Lake City, Malloy Mazda and Byers Mazda in Columbus, OH are all going to be calling up Mazda this Monday to help us get these parts. Even though it's a small part, after hearing how Mazdaspeed refused to deal with us, the need for these parts has apparently convinced them to help us out.

While I talked with Ray Crowe, I found out that he has a 20B now, so it must have struck home. Plus, he agreed that the guys at Mazdaspeed are pretty douchey and don't seem to want to make money like a real business.

Anyway, what I'd like to ask anyone seeing this thread is to do the community a favor Call up your local dealer and ask for this part by the part number. If they ask for a VIN, give them my donor car's one, JCESE-100352 (1990 Cosmo 20B Type E-CCS). If Mazda is getting called repeatedly for the same exact part number, we just might get a shipment of them specially made and NOT have to deal with the ****** at Mazdaspeed.

If you can help, please post here what dealer you called and what they said about it. Here's what I've done so far:

Continental Mazda in Anchorage, AK: Knew what they were for, but couldn't get them (said they were out of production)
Phillips Mazda in Laguna Hills, CA: Said there's no such thing as a 1990 Cosmo
Cutter Mazda in Honolulu, HI: No idea what they were and couldn't get them.
D. Dahle Mazda in Salt Lake City: Now knows what they're for and wants to help us get them. they called Mazda today but they apparently left early so they're getting called up again on Monday
Malloy Mazda: Ray Crowe's always wanting to help us out, so he's in too.
Byers Mazda in Columbus, OH: Spoke to Kurt there, he's calling Mazda on Monday as well.

nevertolow

time for ebay my friend..

nevertolow

well i just looked and im sure you have.... couldnt find anything on ebay... just apex seals. but ill try to farther the research in the morning lol. hope i can find at least onething you need. i really wanna see more of this project.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Did some work on the car a couple days ago. Radiator is roughly in place, taurus fan trimmed down 1/4" and oil cooler is temporarily mounted on the front side of the stock mounts but one hole down for the time being.

Now, this post is to sum up the costs of going 20b in a FC. All parts are used, except for the Haltech and doesn't include shipping costs for the engine & transmission since that would vary depending on the buyer's location. It's not a complete list, but should put things in perspective about the REAL cost of a 20b.

Engine: $2800 (shipping was $400, not counted in this)
S5T2 Transmission: $60 ($60 to ship it, not counted for this)
Mazdatrix T2 to NA Driveshaft, 500 miles on it: $200 local
Pair of 20b Turbos with manifold: $100 shipped
Pair of Non-sequential 20b Turbos w/manifold & Cosmo downpipe: $65 shipped
T2 Starter: Free, Traded for N326 ECU
Haltech Platinum Sport 2000: $1750
Taurus Fan, wiring and relays: $25
ACT Prolite Flywheel & FD Clutch: $80 shipped on ebay
20B Engine Mounts: $14 worth of flat iron
Fuel Pump: Free, from my friend's dad's FD when he upgraded to a Supra one
Battery Relocation parts: $34
Various terminals and connectors for Haltech wiring: Free or already on hand
Total: $7603 ($400 under budget!)

Now for the other stuff that wasn't necessary, but should be done when going 20b.
Pair of used FC engine mounts: $20 (mine tore when pulling the 13b out)
Set of KYB AGX/Ground Control Coilovers: $500 shipped (FD wheels/tires scrubbed the fenders with the stock ones)
Split tube wire loom: $15 at Harbor Freight (Organization=WIN)
Vacuum/Boost Gauge: $22 at Harbor Freight
Total: $557

The following items normally come with a 20b when purchased from a reputable seller like Japan2LA or FDNewbie. My engine didn't have them though.
AN06 Oil Supply Line & Adapters for turbos: $50 at Jegs (my engine didn't have this one). Also included with this is an AN06 Male-Female adapter with 1/8" NPT pressure port on the side, a 1/8" NPT Tee fitting and plug. Seemed like a good way to remedy the broken-off sender in the rear iron, and have an oil pressure test port for diagnostic purposes. What I'm using is Jegs Push-Loc hose and fittings because they were the least expensive, super easy to make a custom length and both the fittings and hose are reusable (a GODSEND for prototyping new projects).
20b OMP: Free, thanks to Logan at Defined Autoworks (again, wasn't included with the engine)
Water pump: Free, s5 one on trade for my S4 one
Secondary Injectors: $50 for two clean/flow-tested S4T2 tan top injectors (temporarily using a S4NA one for the third one, will stay under 3k till I can swap it)
Turbo Control Solenoids: Haven't purchased them yet, but I'll be using GM Wastegate solenoids (for 1989 Turbo Trans Am) combined with the Haltech to have an easy to understand and simple control system using readily available parts that can be purchased anywhere. Schematics are in the Haltech section. Cost will be added when I get it done.
Total: $100

These are the user-specific items that will vary depending on how you go about a 20b conversion.
Radiator and brackets: Recycled S4 ones, brackets modified to be vertically mounted
Radiator Hoses: Gates Green Stripe Universal ones. (haven't purchased yet, will update with cost and part numbers/lengths)
Turbo Coolant lines: $8 for 6 feet of fuel injection hose, plenty to plumb them to the AT oil cooler to pre-cool it and take some of the load off of the radiator (thanks StevenSimon for the idea)

And last but not least, tools that will earn their weight in gold. Not included is the engine crane, Jack or Jack Stands as those are obvious.
Oil Pressure Test Gauge: $20 at Harbor Freight and had all the adapter fittings you could ever ask for, including a 28-BPST to 1/8" NPT and several metric to 1/8" NPT ones including M8x1.0, M16x1.5 and M18x1.5. The M8 one was how I figured out what the flywheel needed Like I said before, you buy it for the fittings, the gauge itself is a bonus
Rotary Tool: $20 at Big Lots 5-6 years ago
Diamond Bit set: $8 at Harbor Freight. Need I go on? lol
Total: $48

JDriftM

iTrader: (9)

Right on dude. Hell yeah for stickin to the "oh minimum of $30,000 for a 20B"-guys.
Got a question for you, you've got PM.

-J

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

You have to understand how mazda works to see why you are getting the result you are.

Any parts for the cosmo are NOT stock replacement parts in the USA, as the car was never sold here. I can check later this week but it's very likely the part number also does not work in the dealership computer, as it's not a stock part for anything sold here.

The legal issue, would be that they are supplying parts for a car that isn't certified to be here, or something. It's silly since they stock the parts but that's the way it is

There is a way for the dealership to call the parts help people, with the cosmo's vin and order stock parts for it. Or you could sign up for the mazdacomp program, since the competition program conflicts with the dealerships, they can't just sell to anyone anymore.

Or you could buy from mazdatrix...

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

j9fd3s, I have reason to believe that you might not be right about parts being certified for the USA. For example, the CC4A Mitsubishi Mirage Super R wasn't sold here either, but you can order the rear floorpan through Ricartparts.com for around $270 (Part number MR208886). For those not familiar, the Super R is the hatchback sibling to the Evolution I-III, based on the same CA-CExA framework, so they share a LOT of parts. You can swap ANY mechanical part from any car in the Mirage/Lancer family with another one, including the american versions. Body panels for the Mirage/Lancer aren't shared with any other car in the Mitsubishi stable either. Plus, the rear floorpan is specific to the drivetrain application also. FWD ones use MR205885, while 4wd ones use MR208886. In conclusion, this is why I believe that dealers CAN get Japan-spec parts regardless of their location. To quote Ray Crowe ,"Mazdaspeed is just a bunch of douches."

Anyway, I'd like to hear more about the dealer calling parts help people with the vin like you suggested. It could really be a big help to anyone that has a not-so-american car and needs to get parts for it.

On a related note, I have a bit of humble pie to eat. The FD Injector seals came in today and they're a perfect fit for the 20B's injectors and injector ports, exactly like Logan said they were. So for anyone needing to find a substitute for NF02-13-257A, you can use N3A1-13-257 instead. They were $6 each.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

re read what i wrote. MAZDA USA will not sell non us market parts, except thru mazda comp, or the DAG (dealer assistance group).

in theory there isn't a law about importing non us parts, except that when the non us part ends up on a us market car and it no longer conforms to either safety or emissions standards.

so just because mazda usa won't do it, doesn't mean you or ricerparts.com can't do it.

although as you've noticed, they don't

slidin RX

iTrader: (2)

Tha beging is so fucn funny ping ping ping likea pin ball game haha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dooKpdIwwR4&sns=em

badboi24u

iTrader: (1)

Pricing seems awesome and makes me think of going 20b esp if i could keep it under 10k but i am wondering...Would you want to rebuild the 20b before you drop it in so you might not have to do it later on...if im wrong and this motors are different lmk because im not too familiar with the 20b reliability

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Generally speaking, it's best to plan for a rebuild before swapping it in, but the previous owner of my 20b, Cosmo105, took really good care of it and was really upfront about it as far as I could tell. The only issue I had was the oil pressure sender being broken off in the rear iron. Not critical, but I would have appreciated knowing though. As for reliability, I see no reason that it wouldn't be as reliable or moreso than a S5 13B Turbo, especially at higher HP numbers. More displacement means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to get the same amount of power.

Since mine was in really good shape, I decided to forego a rebuild in order to keep it as close to original as possible. For the 'cool' factor, my car's theme is of a hidden prototype, stashed away by Mazda in 1988 like its sibling, the 20B GTUS Prototype (also a Series 4). I've always been into the r&d variants since I first watched Mobile Suit Gundam and saw all the different variations of the RX-78 Gundam and MS-05/MS-06 Zaku, including their prototypes and test models. In my mind, seeing something go from an idea to a working model is one of the coolest things ever. Seeing it progress in stages gives you an idea of what the creators were thinking, what issues they faced and how they figured out solutions to them.

Now, back to the build:
Yesterday morning, I figured out why the haltech wasn't connecting. It wasn't a software issue, nor wiring, nor the USB cable. It was the power source. What I was using is one of those wall adapters that let you use a cigarette lighter accessory inside. Here's a pic of it:

Bought it at Big Lots a few years ago for a LED Gauge Cluster project that stalled out. While it puts out enough juice to power the haltech, powering the relays is what buggered everything up since the voltage dropped to 6.6 volts at the harness. So I took out the fuel pump, injector and ignition coil relays and it perked up to 6.8 volts and instantly connected to the ECU Manager software, which I had recently upgraded to V1.08 per Claudio's recommendation. The USB cable is one of those 90s iMac transparent blue ones where you can see the silver shielding.

So, lesson learned and we now know the minimum voltage needed to wake up the Haltech: 6.8 volts. So if your red status LED is stuck on, CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE

But one good thing did come from all this: Now we all know that a Haltech will boot up no matter how low you run the car's battery. And if it STILL won't boot, you're a much more talented fool than I.

And now I need to obtain a proper 12v indoor power supply. First thing that came to mind was from my teenage R/C car days: http://www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap0250.html. But with a pricetag of $75, the added bonus of 5v test ports doesn't justify the cost. So I talked to my buddy Cori again and he told me to use a spare ATX power supply. So I present thee with the gift of information


Now I'm glad I kept the power supply from that desktop I stripped years ago. It's only 200 watts, but that's plenty. 200 watts at 12 volts is approximately 16.7 amps (thank you Electrical Wiring app for Android!)

I can fab together a box for it to go in, add a power switch & LED salvaged from another computer case, then get some wire grommets and give it proper terminals for 12v, 5v and 3.3vdc as well as a USB port to charge my phone and the haltech-specific connectors, all in one tidy, readily-available and FREE package. Might add some LEDs for the individual circuits later on, to indicate they're under load.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Update time

Looks like the old computer power supply had vanished somewhere, so I got an old AT one from my buddy Matt. Took it apart, rewired it with ring terminals and tested it. 12v rail put out 5v and the 5v rail was down to 2.6v so it's no good to me. Might be good for testing sensors, so whoever wants it can have it. Add some Binding Post terminals such as Radio Shack part#274-661 and you're all set. They're rated for 10a@125VAC, but it should be fine for the amount of current at 12 volts.

So as soon as the mail comes, I'll be off to see the wizard, the wonderful wizard of Micro Center for a new ATX power supply for $10. This one's gonna be entirely self-contained with the binding posts mounted on the case itself. Since I'm not too sure about the insulation quality of the posts I got (the radio shack ones), the case is getting some dremel attention and a plastic panel recycled from a blank household wallplate.

For the sake of convenience, it'll have eight posts total, two 12v+, a 5v+, a 3.3v+ and grounds for each one. Sure, I could skimp and only have one ground post, but it'd defeat the purpose of being able to test several things simultaneously. In addition to this, I'll be adding a salvaged USB header for cell phone charging. A haltech-specific pigtail might come later too.

Now, back to the 20B:
Since I'm mounting the oil cooler a couple inches forward of where it originally was (front side of the OE mounts), that made the rear iron to cooler line too short. In the stock spot, it just barely cleared anyway. So I gotta bite the bullet and convert it to AN10. Thankfully, since I flipped the oil cooler upside-down to mount it on the front of the mounts, the lines will have to be swapped which will put the shorter front line near the frame rail. Normally, you'd have to get the special adapter from Mazdatrix because it's so close that a normal 90 degree adapter won't fit. But since that spot will be using the original banjo bolt, I can save $30 and just get a regular M18x1.5 to AN10 adapter at Jegs for $17.99. Using an08 would be $10 less for the adapters, but the smaller hose's decreased flow isn't worth the risk to save $1 per hose end and $1 per 5ft section of hose.

Here's what I intend to do:
Earl's #361-9919FFK: M18x1.5 to AN10 adapter: $17.99 (x2)
JEGS Performance Products #555-100073: 90 degree Push-Loc AN10 hose end: $14.99 (x2)
JEGS Performance Products #555-102130: 5ft of Red Push-Loc AN10 hose: $15.99
Total: $81.95

If anyone has some suggestions, I'm all ears

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Im lost. What exactly are you trying to make? Im just not understanding something...