Need help finding out what this noise is.
Hello Rx-7 club, I have a 1986 gtu that has been converted to an entire 1991 body style and I motor swapped a 88 t2 motor. I dont know where to start, Ive always had problems with the car either vacuum leaks, always running rich and electrical problem, for example blowing a fuse when I hit the brake most of the time, or the fuse to my cig. lighter. I have a 1.7 rtek chipped ecu, 550 primary inj. and 750 secondary's, fuel pressure regulator, I also have my rats nest delelted. I had the turbo sent off to bnr and had a stage one upgrade. I have a custom aluminum stitched intake. Its hard to get the car started sometimes, especially once the car turns on for a min (literally) and then shuts off, when I try and start the car again, she just doesnt want to start. One other thing is that the motor doesnt have much miles on it. It was a rebuilt years ago, dynoed the car hardly had the car running and decided to take some parts off to get painted and when I put her back together something wasnt right. Motor has maybe 200 miles on it, as well as the turbo. I checked my compression on both rotors and they were sort of low, reading about 55 on the front housing and 75 on the rear. I added some atf and they both equaled out at 80. So i know i dont have a blown motor or missing apex seals. I really want to get this 7 running and driving because ive had this car for about 3 years and still havnt enjoyed a single turbo ride =/. Lifes better with a rx-7 in your life.
55-75 isn't a good compression number and could be the cause of the majority of your problems. just because it doesn't have many miles on the engine does not make the engine good.
the best place to start is by finding and fixing any vacuum leaks, this is the single largest problem most people run into with a second gen. a cracked turbo intake duct is usually the first problem in the series.
the best place to start is by finding and fixing any vacuum leaks, this is the single largest problem most people run into with a second gen. a cracked turbo intake duct is usually the first problem in the series.
i was going to say your camera picks up a lot of noise until i saw the second video.. now it's much worse than i originally thought.
5"hg to idle isn't normal, even for a bridged engine with huge overlap.
the knocking noise is concerning. remove the accessory belts and see if the noise goes away, if it doesn't then press in the clutch, if it still doesn't go away then your engine is having some serious mechanical issues internally. i'm actually fairly certain that engine is done.
5"hg to idle isn't normal, even for a bridged engine with huge overlap.
the knocking noise is concerning. remove the accessory belts and see if the noise goes away, if it doesn't then press in the clutch, if it still doesn't go away then your engine is having some serious mechanical issues internally. i'm actually fairly certain that engine is done.
Sorry this took me a minute to get this taken care of, but I did the clutch press nothing happened and then went for the belts and the car didn't want to start. She just kept turning over and I went ahead and made sure my timing was correct and it was perfect. I did notice something tho, I had my cousin turn the car over for me and I watched my main pulley kind of wobble. As it turned the pulley had some play in it. Do you think its my thrust bearing or something related to the front pulley that would cause that noise or even a shitty motor
The fact you have this in the build thread section means its going to have little visibility.
The thrust bearing is for in and out play, up and down could be front stationary gear bearing. Honestly with the sound its making im shocked the car registers any oil pressure at all, and its very slow to register pressure.
The thrust bearing is for in and out play, up and down could be front stationary gear bearing. Honestly with the sound its making im shocked the car registers any oil pressure at all, and its very slow to register pressure.
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Ya, the clinking noise is from my PS line metal brackets but uhm I still need to look under the front cover and see if anything happened down there. Im pretty sure it has something to do with my oil pump because before i took my wiring top manifold and belts off id try and move the car after idle and tge car would immediately hesitate and want to shut off. Of course my afr reading were always rich and even after the weird noises she ran the same afrs. Afr was always around 13 and 14 at idle, and at regular break in driving my afr would sometimes clock or at 10 which is really rich.
I'm sorry If I'm typing just to much bs or ligit info.
If there's anything else I can put just let me know and I'll try my best to make things happen
I'm sorry If I'm typing just to much bs or ligit info.
If there's anything else I can put just let me know and I'll try my best to make things happen
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