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Another day, another L (sort of), got the 45-degree fitting and FB Front Cover gasket, the installation was swift. Sadly, the way I have designed my oil drain will not work, I have a straight fitting coming below the turbo which is causing a kink in the line, better safe than sorry I'll have to go get a 45-90 degree fitting to make this ideal. I really need a workbench, making AN-lines is quite terrible using adjustable wrenches on the floor haha.
As a reminder to myself, things that are left to do:
- Wrap up the remainder of the engine harness
- Redo my battery ground
- Go to the junkyard and get electric fans already
- Make a custom bracket for my throttle cable
- Lift engine up and install oil pan bolts
- Get oil
Will the oil pool up in the return line with it setup like that?
Absolutely. This is a real bad way to do a drain line. With how high that hole he drilled on the front cover is he'll never get a hose/fittings that will have enough of a downward slope to not back up and cause problems.
Will the oil pool up in the return line with it setup like that?
Originally Posted by evileagle
Absolutely. This is a real bad way to do a drain line. With how high that hole he drilled on the front cover is he'll never get a hose/fittings that will have enough of a downward slope to not back up and cause problems.
I'm going to be switching the fitting under the turbo to a 45 degree or even possibly a 90 degree to give it a more vertical slant so it doesn't pool up today.
Tried my best with the oil drain, got it "finished" honestly it's a lot better than the last set up so I'm not even going to complain unless it becomes a serious issue. Tried starting up the car to realize the new MAP source I was using behind the UIM literally read nothing, I didn't even notice that until I blew up my starter. I was unhappy with the intercooler setup so I ended up ordering a boatload of parts so I can finally get this car over with and sent off to paint finally.
Parts Ordered:
- ID1050X's from FFE
- New Alternator
- New Starter
- Koyo Radiator (2-week backorder lol)
- CX Racing Intercooler Kit
- New Spark Plugs
Literally surprised the car was able to start for 2 seconds like this.
Tried my best with the oil drain, got it "finished" honestly it's a lot better than the last set up so I'm not even going to complain unless it becomes a serious issue. Tried starting up the car to realize the new MAP source I was using behind the UIM literally read nothing, I didn't even notice that until I blew up my starter. I was unhappy with the intercooler setup so I ended up ordering a boatload of parts so I can finally get this car over with and sent off to paint finally.
Parts Ordered:
- ID1050X's from FFE
- New Alternator
- New Starter
- Koyo Radiator (2-week backorder lol)
- CX Racing Intercooler Kit
- New Spark Plugs
Literally surprised the car was able to start for 2 seconds like this.
Final Product for my Oil Drain Setup
That's still going to pool, and there will be a lot of smoke. Can't be uphill to the drain like that.
That's still going to pool, and there will be a lot of smoke. Can't be uphill to the drain like that.
I literally poured oil into it to see how it would flow, had absolutely no problems, because it’s angled it moves down with gravity. Maybe the photo is giving you an illusion but I have friends with much worse drain setups and they don’t smoke at all I even got feedback from them and they commended it.
I literally poured oil into it to see how it would flow, had absolutely no problems, because it’s angled it moves down with gravity. Maybe the photo is giving you an illusion but I have friends with much worse drain setups and they don’t smoke at all I even got feedback from them and they commended it.
What if you were parked on a small hill? Wouldn't that exacerbate the oiling issue?
Injectors and Intercooler came. I have to say I’m incredibly impressed with the CX Racing IntercoolerKit, this is why I don’t hop on mob mentality. For the price it’s worth it, everything lines up and fits perfectly. Just need to cut two small holes and we should be Gucci. Ordered the injector through Fuel a Function Engineering and it came with literally everything I needed, I’m super impressed with their shipping time, only one day from AZ to MA.
Finally mounted up my intercooler, everything seems to fit quite well. Had to cut two 3.5” holes right by the wheel well, I’m going to weather seal them ASAP! I really want to paint my bay at this point, everything looks so dusty. I mostly spent this weekend working and doing homework. I also started making a custom throttle cable bracket, as I’m using an NA cable and the Tii cable looks hideous. I’ve never really “fabricated” a part before.
Huge victory, I finally “drove” the car, first time the car saw sunlight in a long time. Threw a timing light on the car, with -5 BTDC lock timing and 180 BTDC offset and the timing was dead on with my light. Rigged up a few things and the car starts up with ease. New spark plugs, alternator, and starter was installed the day before. Adjusted my injector settings, had to pull 40% VE out of my fuel table globally just to get it to run due to coolant temp corrections inside the map, the car ran but sounded like it was running on one rotor or had bad base timing (it was a gnarly vacuum leak, forgot to hook up my fuel pressure regulator ). Got that handled now, BAC valve was leaking a little with the crappy gasket sealer the PO put on. I have a lot to take care of, now. Found oil sizzling at my exhaust manifold, my oil feed line is literally being pressed on by my LIM probably causing it to leak, I thought it was my drain but I doubt it, potentially have to pull my turbo off once again. Made a list of things to get done, I’m so happy, this year has been terrible went through a lot personally and this car has brought nothing but joy and frustration *insert IFHY by Tyler the Creator*
TODO:
- Turbo Oil leak repair
- Re-Rotate Turbo to proper
- Replace injector seats
- Wire up tach and fuel pump trigger wire for good
- Wire and look up ignition subharness
- Look remainder of my engine harness and remove fan trigger from harness
- Catback
- New Battery
- Enhance Battery grounds
- Battery tie down
- Filter for Turbo
- Clamp Down Coolant Hoses
- Alternator Power Wire
- Seat Bolts
- Put a ******* interior back together
- Sunroof Assembly
- Replace blown fuses lol
- Fender and Liner (properly bolt them down)
- Slam the rears
- Clean up Wiring mess from tuck
I barely anything yet made a ton of progress, car is still leaking a ton of oil lol, just lazy to pull that turbo. I hooked up the BAC valve and made some small adjustments, literally the car isles better than when it was on the stock ECU so that’s cool, highly convinced the brand new Wideband sensor I bought fouled itself to death do rip to that poor thing, finally bought a battery which is cool, going to fix my terrible ground first and try to “fabricate” some tie-down solution too. I’m just going to photo dump since I have no drive to be writing on a dead forum site at 2am. I have an 8am class so that’s that...
Starting to work on the tune, need to set some closed-loop parameters (Ideally I want it to run closed-loop operations for fuel under boost up to 4psi), gotta dial in a neat rotary split-table, and make a solid AFR Target Table to accommodate for using Link's fuel mixture map feature. I have set my boost cut at 14psi, one of the important things I want to do is have Lambda safeties incorporated to cut spark when running leak into boost to avoid failures (i-e: if I start losing fuel pressure).
It's been slow the past few days, buttoning up a few things, my wideband sensor killed itself so had to order a new one, installed Ford Taurus electric fans (going to have to re-do it to run on a 60amp circuit), had my first tuning session with RGHTBrainDesign who is really good with high compression turbo rotaries. Highly recommend him for your tuning needs. Mechanically and physically the car is pretty much fine, just need to clean up some things. I still don't have power brakes trying to come up with a solution for that one. Trying to avoid running that ugly line, might just paint it black so my OCD doesn't go too crazy.
Busy with finals barely spent much time with the car but somehow did a substantial amount of work?
Managed to clean up the wire tuck a ton, decided I don't want to run fender liners, fuse box has been mounted in front of the radiator support using the original mount which is cool, Got a mountable fan relay, tucked those wires neatly, my OCD was killing me. Had some dangling relays behind the relay from the tuck, they're in a lowkey position right by the leading coil pack which is rad.
Today was an incredibly emotional day for me, I drove the car for the first time in months under its own power with the new setup. Lots of people told me this was a very unrealistic waste of money, well I did it, and I did it right. It makes me happy. I wrapped up so much, new radiator and oil leak has been situated. Ended up rewiring my e-fans and tidying up a lot. Not quite done yet, but the car made it to the gas station. Need to get her tuned up now all the magical work is in the computer. Highly convinced my Wideband sensor killed itself again
Today was an incredibly emotional day for me, I drove the car for the first time in months under its own power with the new setup. Lots of people told me this was a very unrealistic waste of money, well I did it, and I did it right. It makes me happy. I wrapped up so much, new radiator and oil leak has been situated. Ended up rewiring my e-fans and tidying up a lot. Not quite done yet, but the car made it to the gas station. Need to get her tuned up now all the magical work is in the computer. Highly convinced my Wideband sensor killed itself again
Wire the wideband to a separate power switch. Don't have it come on with ignition. Condensation in the exhaust (especially common this time of year) on a cold sensor will shatter the element inside. Let it run for 10-15 sec to blow that **** out before you power up the WBO2. It'll last a LOT longer.
Wire the wideband to a separate power switch. Don't have it come on with ignition. Condensation in the exhaust (especially common this time of year) on a cold sensor will shatter the element inside. Let it run for 10-15 sec to blow that **** out before you power up the WBO2. It'll last a LOT longer.
that’s a good idea! The issue has been resolved, has to buy a new sensor and now that its like 2.5. Feet from the turbo it hasn’t had issues since!
09-16-20, 12:48 AM
