Mac's FC "Build" Thread
10-20-11, 10:00 PM
#203
Got alot done last night and today, completed:
-Oil Thermal Bypass Shim whatevers
-Flywheel and clutch torqued down
-Dropped motor in with sold mounts
-Redid OMP lines
-Primary Injectors in
-Alternator freshened up
-blah blah blah
Dont have any pics of the motor in the car yet since it got dark.
Still can't decide between a front mount and vmount, trying to see which will be more worth my time without spending too much money.
10-21-11, 02:15 AM
#207
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: crater on mars
Posts: 476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sweet build mac! if you want to save money go fmic cause if you get a vmount you would need a hood lol seems like you and i went from n/a to turbo at the same time. hmu if you need help with the swap you have my number peace
10-28-11, 01:37 AM
#208
I know i know I've been lagging it with updates, but motor is for the most part done. I usually don't find time to update when being productive. Tomorrow I just need to finish vmounting the radiator, hook up the intake piping, and drop in some fluids. Start up tomorrow for sure! Crossing fingers!
10-28-11, 11:36 AM
#209
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes! Vmount for the win...if you haven't already bought a hood look at 9k racing. They have a vent cut out that you can put on you stock hood. Look at buckeys car in the drifting section. Can wait to see it running dude!
10-29-11, 02:31 PM
#211
Thanks, I'm pretty happy how it turned out especially on the car.
Sadly, I couldn't get it running right last night so no sevenstock for me. The motor cranks and everything it just doesn't want to keep itself alive. I'm pretty sure I have a vac leak somewhere, going back out to keep on looking. Really trying to get it fired up so I can take it to JDMsport and piece together my ic setup.
10-29-11, 04:14 PM
#212
Passion for Racing
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Is the alt pulley a SuperNow item? Looks like the same annodized purple they use. Looks awesome, and even if i didn't take a RX7 I'd still go to sevenstock haha
10-29-11, 08:16 PM
#215
The pulley came from japan2la here on the forums. I planned on still going to sevenstock, but I woke up way too late and just decided to get some downtime with the car. I'm tired of driving my toyota sienna van everywhere so this car needs to get finished haha. Definitely turned out to be a productive day.
10-29-11, 09:30 PM
#216
Forgot I took a few pics with my phone. My buddy came over today to help me a bit with working out the bugs. Fixed most if not all the vacuum leaks and got it to stay on. Sadly my omp lines that I just put in are still leaking a bit so those need to get redone with better quality lines. Decided to drive it around to get a feel of it and it wouldn't rev pass 3000rpms. Need to see if its throwing any codes and putting me into limp mode.
Drove it around like this with open downpipe...I love seeing ppls reactions hahah
Its messy I know.
I love how that ugly powersteering sits now, cant really see it now. Vmount rad mocked up, still playing with angles/clearance and all that.
QUESTION: Where does the brake booster vac line hook up to on the uim? Theres three different nipples that can fit it.
Drove it around like this with open downpipe...I love seeing ppls reactions hahah
Its messy I know.
I love how that ugly powersteering sits now, cant really see it now. Vmount rad mocked up, still playing with angles/clearance and all that.
QUESTION: Where does the brake booster vac line hook up to on the uim? Theres three different nipples that can fit it.
11-04-11, 01:08 PM
#218
Brap Brap Psshh
![Tyler [S5 FC]'s Avatar](https://www.rx7club.com/customavatars/avatar115591_1.gif){kind=avatar}
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, at least in my case. My car would drive fine for 2 minutes, then switch to limp mode. I could then turn the car off, and back on, and drive for another two minutes... rinse and repeat. Only did that a couple times to get the car from one house to another.
11-06-11, 01:44 PM
#219
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lakewood, Wa
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mac,
Your look when you had your crown vic wheels is my inspiration for when I get an s4.
What lug nuts were those that you had, the blue ones. They were sick.
You've brought this car to a whole notha level man!
Keep up the good work and good luck with that swap
Your look when you had your crown vic wheels is my inspiration for when I get an s4.
What lug nuts were those that you had, the blue ones. They were sick.
You've brought this car to a whole notha level man!
Keep up the good work and good luck with that swap
11-06-11, 10:17 PM
#221
Sure man, could always use some company while trying to get this thing running right haha. I was actually going to head out to your meet the other night but my alternator took a crap on me
Update...ish
Neighbors were getting mad about me trying to fix my idling problem with an open downpipe so I took it to the exhaust shop.
After getting gas my car didn't want to start up, got some passerby to help me push start. Drove it down the block and my car died while rolling and it wouldn't start up by rolling. My car left me stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery and dead alternator. Chillin in the red zone waiting for my uncle to bring the van and strap my car home.
Time to recheck the wiring on my alt, but instead of another fd alt I think I'm just going to go with the Taurus alt.
11-06-11, 10:31 PM
#222
s4 Pride
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 3,350
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Any chance you could tell me how much further forward the Taurus alt is from an FC alt? I want to do the Taurus alt but I'm worried about clearance with my strut tower bar... and I'm NOT getting rid of that strut bar.
11-08-11, 02:11 PM
#223
Full Member
Team Nuisance always break necks when they arrive to meets.
Your car is one of the main reason.
Super clean, original, and just beyond jaw dropping.
I barely got my 7 couple weeks ago, and before I got it I use to always watch your videos on Youtube and think to myself, damn.
One day.
Lmfao.
Stanced but functional, all day, errrday.
Your car is one of the main reason.
Super clean, original, and just beyond jaw dropping.
I barely got my 7 couple weeks ago, and before I got it I use to always watch your videos on Youtube and think to myself, damn.
One day.
Lmfao.
Stanced but functional, all day, errrday.
11-14-11, 01:42 AM
#224
So much happened this weekend with the car. So much troubleshooting and trial and error.
Friday, went to fill up gas so I could take the car to my buddies house for a compression test. I noticed the my fd alternator wasn't charging at idle. So I tried revving it and at about 6000rpms my alternator starting charging the battery at 13-14v. Now every time I started my car and it isnt charging, I rev it up to 6k and it starts charging. It like I have to rev my car high to "activate" or "turn on" my alternator. Any idea?
Did the compression test and all the bumps on all six faces were well within spec. Also final compression on both rotors were at 108-110. Very happy with this but still couldn't figure out why the car was sooo sluggish. Got home and the car flooded, which pointed me in the right direction.
Saturday, check the rear spark plugs and they were drenched in fuel. Unflooded the motor first time around using atf. Thought I'd switch around the injectors from rears to fronts to see if they would leak and would cover the front plugs with fuel. After that I checked timing and it was wayyy off. The 1st and 2nd leading wires weren't even firing the same. The trailing wires were twitchy. Changed the wires to the ones I ran on my n/a and the trailing plugs were firing correctly via timing light but the leadings were still off. the 2nd leading wire wasn't even firing, which explains the flooding on the rear rotor. Called it a night, put it off till the morning.
Sunday: Pulled out the cas and saw the the bottom was not even on the right mark. Whoever installed it before used the allen key screw as a marker. I restabbed the cas correctly and set timing exactly and the car idled amazingly. Even still with my exhaust manifold leak it sounded less like a lawnmower and more like a rotary. Throttle response was MUCH better but vacuum still wasn't up to par. My vac on the boost gauge read 11. Put some rtv on the throttle body sandwich gasket and compression tube, also replaced a few emission delete nipples. Started up the car and it got even better, vacuum is now at 17 which I believe is good to go?
Results:
Finally went for a drive and ohhhh mannnn. Coming from an n/a dropping to a turbo motor running on one rotor to a properly running turbo is amazing! Probably nothing to you turbo guys but its a pretty big deal for me haha. Being able to spin sticky Advan 245/40/18s from 1st to 2nd gear is such a crazy feeling. Nothing but a HUGE smile on my face and a scared passenger. Such a productive weekend.
Friday, went to fill up gas so I could take the car to my buddies house for a compression test. I noticed the my fd alternator wasn't charging at idle. So I tried revving it and at about 6000rpms my alternator starting charging the battery at 13-14v. Now every time I started my car and it isnt charging, I rev it up to 6k and it starts charging. It like I have to rev my car high to "activate" or "turn on" my alternator. Any idea?
Did the compression test and all the bumps on all six faces were well within spec. Also final compression on both rotors were at 108-110. Very happy with this but still couldn't figure out why the car was sooo sluggish. Got home and the car flooded, which pointed me in the right direction.
Saturday, check the rear spark plugs and they were drenched in fuel. Unflooded the motor first time around using atf. Thought I'd switch around the injectors from rears to fronts to see if they would leak and would cover the front plugs with fuel. After that I checked timing and it was wayyy off. The 1st and 2nd leading wires weren't even firing the same. The trailing wires were twitchy. Changed the wires to the ones I ran on my n/a and the trailing plugs were firing correctly via timing light but the leadings were still off. the 2nd leading wire wasn't even firing, which explains the flooding on the rear rotor. Called it a night, put it off till the morning.
Sunday: Pulled out the cas and saw the the bottom was not even on the right mark. Whoever installed it before used the allen key screw as a marker. I restabbed the cas correctly and set timing exactly and the car idled amazingly. Even still with my exhaust manifold leak it sounded less like a lawnmower and more like a rotary. Throttle response was MUCH better but vacuum still wasn't up to par. My vac on the boost gauge read 11. Put some rtv on the throttle body sandwich gasket and compression tube, also replaced a few emission delete nipples. Started up the car and it got even better, vacuum is now at 17 which I believe is good to go?
Results:
Finally went for a drive and ohhhh mannnn. Coming from an n/a dropping to a turbo motor running on one rotor to a properly running turbo is amazing! Probably nothing to you turbo guys but its a pretty big deal for me haha. Being able to spin sticky Advan 245/40/18s from 1st to 2nd gear is such a crazy feeling. Nothing but a HUGE smile on my face and a scared passenger. Such a productive weekend.