so im almost to nagotiating with my builder its so temping to just post who made this mess for me but mistakes can be made and i need to let them have the chance to redeem themselves

 

ok so someone said that that screw might be to hold in a fd stat gear if i have fd gears do i need fd rotors ?

 

^no. FD gears work fine with FC rotors. I believe their oil passages are different, that's all. Even RX-8 gears work in this engine.

 

thanks beef so i decided for now i will weld and rework int plate clean rotors and reinstal everything for the winter i will be looking for parts for a real rebuild thats up to my specs over the winter

this is going to be a long thread lol

 

Weld done pics coming soon with a description of how we did it

 

these are some pics of what we did to try and fix this int plate

 

ok now to explain what we did
1 we heated whole plate very slowly with a weed burner . kept an eye on temps with a heat laser to the mid 300f s. it took about ten minutes and alot of fliping the piece over !

2 cleaned weld area i bought a cordless dremel for this with all the different tips

3 placed the weld while keeping the metal warm with a map torch

4 took whole piece inside and placed in the oven at 350f let it sit in there about two hours reduce temp to 250 1 hour then 170 for another hour then off with the door kept closed for a last hour

5 i used the dremel to "cut" out the shape of the wall it took over three hours to get it close

6 then using a razorblade as a plane mind you with a bright light behind it very carefully grinded it until almost no light came from under the razor . i found if you rest the razor so that both sides are touching original material you can work the blade in a cross hatch pattern and your high spots will be marked with a x . carefully remove these and keep in mind too take too much and you must start over !

all in all this is a cheap temp fix if it last the winter i will be happy this was not a perfect job i know but its a idea for some of us

 

What are you going to do about that splatter on the face?

 

none of the splatter really stuck there were a few spots at the edge that cratered but i smoothed them up

 

Well, I know you're going to get a lot of crap for this, but I like your style. If it works, then good on you. If not, you've only lost time and a set of coolant seals. Either way, we will learn from your endeavors. Let's see how it turns out... hopefully before anyone bad-mouths you.

I got bashed at work for attempting to repair a thermal imaging camera. They're used for fighting fires, which can get pretty serious on submarines. We weren't going to be able to get another one for over a month. What's to lose at this point? It's already completely useless as it is. They gave me all kinds of crap about "not having the proper qualifications" to work on it, or what if I "break it for good", etc. Well, as it would turn out, I was actually able to fix it, so I was able to stand up proudly in front of all the people who said I shouldn't do it and tell them to gargle on my nuts.

 

Are you sure the inside of the coolant seal groove is the same depth as the original? That would be my concern, I could see the potential for leaks.

 

well i am going to cheat a little and use a small amount of black rtv in that area as well as rotory evolutions seal savers

and thank you for the optimistic post i fear ill need it !

 

As long as the grooves are consistent and deep enough so the coolant seal savers dont bottom out before the irons contact, it should work. I'd like to see the results, this could help a ton in building a throw-down engine!

 

Rub over the repaired area of plate with a fine stone. It will show the high spots also. If you don't mind me asking, what type of filler rod did you use?

 

i think it was cheap 3018 rod im no welder lol it came in a red box

ok so reassebled the housings. i used crisco for assembly lube oil where neeeded and small amounts of black rtv where needed

i choose crisco becoase it wont harm any gasket material
its cranked down to 10 ft lbs right now letting it rest then i will do two more stages to tighten to tourqe

pics coming soon and i will have a surprize for you soon

 

I'm not familar with stick welding so I tried to look up "3018" rod but couldn't find it. If it's a typical mild steel general use rod, it will crack eventually.

I've welded an iron before, but I TIG'ed it using 316 filler (on instruction from a local welder who does a lot of cast). Pre heated, then let it cool down slowly while keeping the torch on it. Seemed to work but it wasn't a water jacket, it was a bung on the rear iron for turbo water feed.

The real issue with welding cast (once you get all the contamination out) is that the different materials are going to crack once the part begins to heat cycle.

 

actually the method works, but it doesn't look like a nickel rod weld so it may only last a few years but the sleeves i sold him should hold up even if it does break again.

nickel is a soft rod and won't crack like other alloys and bonds to the base metal which is why it is recommended for cast iron welding. it won't hold nearly the same operating temperature as the base iron but in this application the plates rarely see anything above 250F.

 

hmm wish i had some of that info !
sorry guys had to work uhg 30 hrs two days

 

ok dumb question time

 

how the hell should i get thes in and out kinda hard to get a socket on it much less a wrench !

also not being our reg aeromotive type plug what gaps should i run damn

im still waiting to hear from the builder

 

Ain't no gapping the kind of plugs we use.

 

as i said these are not our aviation style plugs they are conventional style there for have a gap i believe tuned cars require hotter plugs that is why this has been done

 

if you plan on running the cheap plugs, take a dremel to the housings to open up the top area where the socket fits. alternately you can machine down a socket to fit but that method is less prone to work as the sockets tend to crack when that thin.

 

Front end play now i think that screw i found behind the rear main was giving a wrong measurement! I know the basic suggested spec but i dont have time to wait. Anyone with suggestions?

 

Ok everyone sorry ive been gone so long! Im actually still at work. So sorry if my post is kinda crappy! Here is whats happened this far figured out the front end play and assembled everything filled up fluids. Also bought a new optima battery and set my cas timing as well and timed it using the starter and a test light! Here is a background of how everything is set up.

I have the front of the car elevated about 1 1/2 feet. Was hoping it would start like this so any leaks could be fixed easily. Bad idea?

Tried to start it and immediately had a few backfires just one pop then some turning and another. From what i understand this is normal true?

Would not start so i pulled plugs and they were very gassy. I took all plugs out took the fuel pump fuse out and cranked it on and off for a few minutes. Sounds like good compression! Reinstalled plugs and fuse tried to start. No avail it stopped the backfires and just keeps flooding! I tried deflooding a few times and it seems to want to start but never fully fires!

Here are some other details if they may help
The car has a
haltek ex6
A street port
Bigger walbro fuel pump
I think 1800 cc primary injectors 800 cc secondary
Lucky 7 pully kit that i want to replace
Omp delete im very cautious with my premix and only use idumitsu
new goopy apex all cooling rings with rotory evos seal savers new front rear seals
Knight sport turbo hybrid
i used some cheap 15-40 oil since i will be changing it after 50 miles
Using crappy ridium plugs that were in it before rebuild those will be changing at first oil change not sure where they are supposed to be gaped so i didnt change them

So if anyone can help or even simply has a idea post it and ill let you know how it turns out!