When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
LS6 valley cover with PCV installed. Had to shave some ribs from the LS1 intake to get it to sit flush. There is a collision with the casting as shown below.
Got the harness pulled through the firewall. I was dreading this, but it ended up being way easier than I thought.
waiting on some things before i install the intake manifold. Knock sensors and harness, MAP sensor, O2 sensors, and LS6 steam pipe.
Also waiting on Fuel filter an AN hose and Fittings. Ditched the stock FC hardlines and decided to go full AN line.
New intake manifold gaskets, Intake foam, steam pipes installed, knock sensors installed, MAP sensor installed, Intake Manifold installed and torqued, NGK 3347 gapped to .035 and installed, and the upper part of the engine harness plugged in.
I've been pretty burnt out on taking pictures lately.
Latest progress:
Radiator/Fan assy and hoses installed. Had to tap a fitting for steam tubes. Sealed it with JB weld.
Drive shaft installed, U joints greased
Added Integra speedo, not perfectly centered but itll do.
Sway Bar relocated
Roughly aligned the front end
Sanded/primered fenders and installed.
Trans cooler and lines installed.
OPS had broken off prior to engine install. Since im not using it, i cleaned it with acetone and sealed it with JB weld.
Aftermarket FPS, OPS, and CTS installed.
N2O Solenoids wired and fully functional
Brake switch wired to relay and fully functional
Lots of other stuff too. Only a few things left to do to get this thing on the road. Need to figure out how im going to install my intake. Theres not a lot of room behind the radiator/fan shroud. Need to install the hood and modify the hood inner panel so it will shut. Need to shorten the trans dipstick. Need exhaust.
Drove it for the first time since the swap last Thursday. Due to open header, and the O2s being 2-3 inches from the atmosphere, the engine loads up in closed loop mode. But when I punch it, this thing rips.
Oh yeah, new water pump. Went to fill the cooling system, and water was pissing out of the weep hole. Swapped the water pump in under an hour.
4" Intake Elbow OPS sealed with JB Weld Integra speedo comparison Integra speedo installed with FC faceplate Back of cluster Bought a pound of the best solder I know. Lead is the best. Harbour freight Pipe bead tool (AKA lineman pliers)
Got the exhaust done last Saturday. I've been rippin around town all weekend. This thing goes! Im able to light up the tires all the way through 3rd gear, and theyre gummy bears (Proxes R888s).
The 4.10s keep the rps kinda high on the freeway, but im not complaining. Very happy at this point.
Didnt connect a ground on my front harness for the headlamps, and smoked my headlamp switch. So ill need to fix that and I also need to do an intake, which is in the mail now.
Snapped a pic of my exhaust before my phone died. Took them 4 hours. Tough to go over that grannys trans x member. LOF had mentioned that to me.
As of right now the car is on jacks again. I noticed a drop in oil pressure. Fairly certain my oil pressure sender is on the fritz. Have a feeling it may be the heat? Ill be relocating it to the back of the block behind the intake manifold. In place of it, for the time being, i will be installing a mechanical sender and gauge outside of the windshield for troubleshooting purposes. The last thing i want is to blow this thing already.
Other than that, the headlight swith seems to be ok. I narrowed the problem down to bad relays and a broken wire on the RH headlamp. Going to make a trip to pick n pull soon.
What is the oil pressure doing? Have you checked the oil for debris just to be sure?
The oil looked a little dark, but i didnt see any metal or anything. That was just on the dipstick. Ill probably drain and change the oil before the weekend. I was only going to run this oil for a rinse just in case any debris got inside the engine when i was grinding the valley for the LS6 Valley cover.
Lately the oil pressure has been hanging around 17psi at 650rpm, and going to about 27 at 2500 rpm. I remember when I first started the engine I had 60-80psi on cold start. So, last night it was bothering me, so I bypassed the original sender wire with another wire I made and I was getting around 25psi at hot idle, and around 40-45 at 1600 rpm just revving it in my driveway. Mind you the front was on jack stands. I cant trust these ******* Glowshift gauges. Its the same one I ran on my rotary engine, and I've already replaced the sender once. Im going to buy a cheap mechanical today and troubleshoot the sender.
mechanical is the way to go, even digital defi and procomp gauges crap themselves after a couple years. issue with mechanical is mostly the flexing of the engine to firewall, a high pressure hydraulic hose is a bit more safe than the crappy nylon lines most manufacturers give you.
mechanical is the way to go, even digital defi and procomp gauges crap themselves after a couple years. issue with mechanical is mostly the flexing of the engine to firewall, a high pressure hydraulic hose is a bit more safe than the crappy nylon lines most manufacturers give you.
I know but i dont want to make a big oily mess in my center dash. Im not up to par on all the rules on the drag strip, but arent mechanical gauges for fluids forbidden in the cab?
10-06-17, 09:24 AM
Ill be relocating it to the back of the block behind the intake manifold. In place of it, for the time being, i will be installing a mechanical sender and gauge outside of the windshield for troubleshooting purposes. The last thing i want is to blow this thing already.
