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While the manifold and everything was off the motor it was a good time to check if the old wastegate held up to that excessive heat or not...
The old pro-gate 50mm had a small tear in the diaphragm, so a quick call to Turbosmart and trip down and we picked up a brand new genv pro-gate 50mm..
Before we had a small 2-3 psi boost creep so hopefully this should put a stop to it.
We also went with a 7psi spring and have deiced to go to a 4port solenoid for a wider boost control, and power control of course. We found this turbo is on or off, so hopefully this will help with drive-ability
Yes i am aware the vac ports are wrong :P
Only a few weekends ago everything was ready to go back into the car..
Again while everything was out of the car and it got cooked, i took the time to make sure all the water, and oil lines to the turbo where replaced and spot on!
All mounted in ready for everything else!
All the water, and oil systems are now in place.. Time for all the little things to be done!
While we search for maximum aero at the front of the car, the turbo system isn't going to see much air, so to prevent the wastage diaphragm to tear and crack, we used the water cooling feature on these new gen-v gates! pretty happy with the outcome.
We are using the rear housing water, and tapped a hole in the water pump housing for the return. All everything is now in place.
We also have decided to move away from the basic Microtech ECU.. While this ECU is good for a street or drag application, it is not for circuit racing. Not to mention the extra features that we will start to use.
So we have moved to a Adaptronic M6000 ECU
ECU is mounted where the air blower normally goes... We also added a Haltech fuse box so we are no longer need to use the main fuse box on this car anymore. It is a step closer to completely pull the entire OEM loom from the car which weighs around 60kg - or 120lbs
So far - this is where we are at towards the end of the year... In the start of the year the ECU will be wired in, fuel system will be re-wired with the same fuse box, and will be removing any bad or old power sources that used to control the engine.
Everything will be fresh.
Also i haven't added in here, we also changed the ignition system to the smartcoil IGN1As which should see a decent differences aswell! I am really keen to see how much this car will change to the old setup..
The list of changes since
- Full cut bridge
- S4 rotors
- more oil pressure
- Gen-V pro-gate
- New ECU
- Ignition system
We are starting to get closer and closer to turn key once again in this car and I cannot wait!
It has come at a unfortunate fruition that the 2020 World Time Attack has been cancelled. As disappointed as I am it will give me another year to develop this car, and more seat time!
I have been busy putting all the small bits together!
Haltech fuse box, with Deutsche connectors. Completely re-wired the entire fuel system to motorsport grade spec.
We also gone to the depth of removing ANY electrical from fuel lines. Running the batter cable through the cabin, and through a power pole near the starter motor.
Completely new ignition system, Haltech ign1a's on a custom mount.
I am extremely happy with what we had done so far!
new 180amp alternator is now officially in place, everything is set.
I also managed to get the diffuser installed onto the car aswell. Fitment is slightly off but barely notice it. I need to move it slightly 5mm to the left and it should be on the money!
However saying that, it completely set's the rear end of the car off!!! i love it!
I do have freshly painted RE-Amemiya side skirts to fit aswell, which i will put on when the car arrives home.
There is a number of reason's why we have moved to DBW. these are the key reason's to why we have moved to DBW
1. No lift shift
2. 2-step on gear shift
3. Auto blip on downshift
4. Torque control. If you watched the in-car video of the car at WTAC it's extremely hard to drive... the turbo and Torque is on or off, its un-controllable and not nice to drive at all
5. Launch Control
6. Auto idle Control
how are you feeding power to those coils? im running ign-1a's as well but im going to be putting in 10 amp fuses for each coil vua a bussmann breaker.
The coils have their own power from the Haltech fuse box. They don't draw that much power at all, once it actually gets wired in i will post some more photos.
Right now we are still waiting on the FFE fuel rail kit.. currently held up in Customs....
The DWB is done, the powder coating is done, the wiring is now done, everything is now done!!!!!!
We finally went to start it, however at a small issue. We didn't actually have the pedal connected and the ECU said no.. so we will need to get it connect then it is ready!
Well its been a while since I updated the build thread. I almost feel like I need to start another one.
After the world changing last year, no racing was happening and the prices of the FC in Australia going through the roof I decied to turn the FC back into street/drag car.
All the aero come off the car, and we put a C4 auto in it along with a G42 1450. We also added x4 2600cc injectors aswell.
How does it go? Well we just finished the dyno tuning see for yourself.
How much power did it made? Well considering the varies differences with dyno's around the world I thought I would just through data at you instead.
E85 BSFC .91
On 25psi which is the second video we are using 67% duty cycle of all x2600cc injectors
On the top video which i believe was a 28psi run we used 75% duty cycle
12-29-19, 07:46 PM
