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Nothing exciting mate! Its limited to 6psi and the exhaust is restrictive AF! so 150rwkw on zero timing.. the main goal here was for it to be 100% start and drivable on e85, and that it is! Hot and Cold starts straight up, no issues! drives to 5,000rpm no problems.. anything over that it just chokes!
I probably wont have any updates for another month or so at this stage, until it passes rego.. then the fun will start! until now its off in hide-away until it passes rego!
So a set of RE Amemiya mirrors popped up for pretty cheap. Having this car will pretty much have a full RE Amemiya body on it (wing, diffuser, side skirts) this will be a nice addition! Will need to be painted, but I got them!
So on Friday, she was booked in for a Rego check... for the first time in 11 months I drive her to work.. parked as FAR away from everyone as possible!!!
The dreaded waiting in line for a railing!
Straight away as soon as he opened the bonnet he came over and said "Big turbo... Soooooo do you have any paperwork for this?"
I said nope and he went over to the table and sat down and started writing.. I knew straight away it failed (I expected nothing less)
So just small things to do really! It looks bad, but not as many things as I expected...
So started tackling some of the stuff off the list today.. Still can't believe they got me for damm holes in the boot? :S
However glad the steering rack boot was done, as it needs attention!!!!
Here is the fouling on the chassis.. It is a toe alignment.. So as soon as I fix the boots, that will be corrected..
So the play in the left rear is worn lower camber links.. I tighten them up however still seem to have the play, it looked to be coming from there.. So while the FC will be a track car, and I knew as soon as I lower the camber will be stupid, so I ordered some Stage 3 FC Camber Links from Ronin Speedworks
So after almost a days ringing around and trying to find genuine steering boots, I ended up giving up and going for a universal type..
I called the local Burson's auto parts, and they happened to have x2 in stock to suit a 91 FC Rx7 So no cutting to make them fit! so happy!!!!
Taking the boot off, the grease was old **** - and pretty hard.. So I wiped it down, and pack it full of new high temp stuff!
Felt satisfying knowing each job that I do now is for registration and one step closer to finally being registered in my own name..
Had to do a minor toe adjustment and give both the fronts slight tow out, as the left hand side was fouling (pic from above) - it doesn't much toe out maybe 2-3mm on each side but needed it to clear the other side.. It needs a spacer to clear it on full lock (this is only for rego)
6 things have now been marked off the list! Just 4 more to go!
Check and clean oil leaks - Degreaser (last thing to do)
Secure Front Brake lines to coil - Easy Fix
Fix play hub play in both fronts - Easy Fix - Tighten hub
Check rear left wheel movement - Replace rear camber links.
Just to be safe I have also ordered two new rear wheel bearing as well.. My gut feeling says its the bearing not the camber link bush.. However the camber link bushes are needed anyways, because of course after this it will be race spec lowered
Hopefully I should get my camber links by the end of the week and also my wheel bearings so I should be able to start working on the rear end this weekend. Tomorrow I will over tighten the front hubs, to see if it removes the play, If not the bearings will need to be replaced. Then ill make up some brackets for the brake lines.. I have a idea so shouldnt be that hard.
So everything is done!! now ready for engineering!
This was the solution to the brake line holder.. Had a bit of aluminum laying around and just made something up.. It runs off the brake caliper, and moves with everything.. Turned out good with some paint!
Next up was the wheel bearing.. Trying to get the axle nut off and I did this.. lol oopps, this is the reason you are meant to use 1/2 inch drives.. :\
Installed.. I tell you what, what a pain in the *** it is to install them.. You need to get a jack underneath the suspension knuckle jack it up like you are lowing the car, then it lowers the the arm at the subframe so then you can fit the camber links in... Soon as one part is in, then you need to get the jack under the camber link part of the control arm and jack it up so it meets up with the other end of the camber link... A little stuffing around, but its pretty easy to install
I replaced the aluminum lock nuts, with proper steal ones! Being a track car, aluminum lock nuts are a no no! these are also open ended so if i ever want to do anything to the hubs or change the wheels etc.. these are mint!
Powered By Max upper control arm bushes rocked up! Nice bit of kit!
To get the bushing out to start with was a utter PITA... This socked ended up being my saving grace as you need a 36mm sleeve to press the old bushing out! It took me about half a day to find a solution to get the bastard out!
=
OEM vs PBM bushing
Rear hub, with new bearings installed
I had to use the ball joint tool kit to press the bush back in.. I also used this tool to take the bushing out!
all done!
That positive camber!!! LOL makes me laugh.. But currently right now the subframe frame link (is adjustable) is set to max camber, or tilt the subframe, so I will fix that up tomorrow
Ordered the fun spring for my wastegate getting ready for the power tune after all this rego stuff!
This is the 14psi spring we will plan to use... Currently it is running a 7psi spring, which is not enough for 23psi of course...
Few things ill do over the xmas break, order a new twin plate clutch and install that..
Exhaust 3.5 inch from dump back (race exhaust)
new CAS
Microtech Pro boost controller
EGT x3 box
Turbosmart Raceport BOV
Then its ready for its 20-23psi... we will send it!
While I have been driving her the last week, I took some happy snaps!
Engineering underway.. Comes out to check it all, getting details of everything to put into the report.
Another thing apart of engineering it needs to be weighed. You can't make out the weight but it comes in at 1200kg or 2645lbs with 50L of fuel with me out of the car.
As the timing has never been officially confirmed I checked timing... at the CAS which should be TDC you can see on the bottom pulley its actually 5 degrees out... Now it has been confirmed it was actually running perfect!!! Before I had to give it a hand to idle on cold, now its spot on.. there is no RPM errors anymore and she is running like she should be!!! very happy!
So I stuffed up... One of the biggest mistakes I could make.. Using this 1/8 NPT pressure sensor and over tightening has resulted in a cracked rear iron!!!!
However saying that, I think it actually has been leaking from there for a while... The hole reason I tired to tighten more was because it was leaking, but I figured it was just the fitting... but yeah, first of all its the incorrect fitting, and needs a adapter...
Being so close to it having full rego and being engineered this just had to happen now... It was so close to getting across the line.. Only if it made this week, and happened next week, FINE I could live with that but NOOOOOO ...
I came back the next day when there was no oil pressure and took the sensor out, you can clearly see on the bottom part of the hole the crack..
So one of my mates came up with the suggestion of just using a cold weld until it passes rego.. It only needs to be driven twice.. So J-B Weld epoxy it was...
It was in a bit of a bitch of a spot to apply it, but just did it the best I could..
So I'll let that set for 24hrs as this stuff is meant to be able to weld up diffs... and see how it goes.. Fingers crossed it holds enough and we can get back on with the engineering and rego. If it's all good, it gets a brake test on Wednesday or Thursday and rego on friday.. soon as thats done, its straight home to take the motor out for a freshen up with it being able to run 35+ psi
you could plug the entire thing and just put the oil pressure gauge up in the oil pedistool - most aftermarket ones have a fitting for the temp and oil pressure (and will be 1/8th NPT as well)
Yeah thanks guys, its is a real kick in the teeth, however the JB weld seems to be holding, and i have been giving it a hard time trying to make it leak again and doesn't seem to be.
Well last week was one of the most frustrating weeks however the was light at the end of the tunnel!
But it surely didn't start off like that....
So I had the final inspection day on Friday the 14th... It passed everything they had originally picked on, however then they started to pick on other things like Rolling Diameter... The rear was 2mm out from what is allowed, even being engineered.... So after being seriously frustrated I went and got new tyres that fit the Diameter of 265/35 R18s and updated the engineering report..
I took it back, and that was fine, then tired to pick on the front suspension being "too stiff" and not enough travel.. Oh come on! I had a bit of a sook sayings its last week before x-mas in the spirit is there anything you can do.. I have to pull the motor out and get it rebuilt, and the suspenion is being replaced.. Soon as it passes its going straight home and the motor is coming out.. is there anything you can do? He came back 20mins later saying there was one more thing i had to do before he passed it.. This was the last day it could pass... It was get the mod plate engraved.. I struggled to find someone to do in time.. I ended up finding someone but was going to take 1 hr and wouldn't' have enough time to go back, but the guy said to come back on the monday and he would pass it if it was installed on the firewall...
Here she is in FULL REGO spec mode. - basically everything blue in the bay is for rego..
Its now got a full Mod Plate now.. But still no import plate..
Awaiting the verdict...
and she is NOW FULL ENGINEERED AND REGISTERED! It has generic plates at the moment, but the plan is to give it a custom name before the time attack next year.
So I have been doing some talking with my Engine Builder who has 30+ years of building RE's. He said the cold weld SHOULD hold, the worse thing that will happen is it just starts to leak again. If it was him, he would just keep driving it, as the internal combustion cambers are still good and motor is still fairly healthy. If the crack was at the dowel, then YES it would need a rebuild straight away.. However it is all good! So just going to leave the motor in there.
So the plan is to get the race exhaust next month in the year new, get a Turbosmart Race Port BOV, and get it tuned on 14psi for now and see how it holds. I have put a deposit down on a new Series 5 motor, with a nitrated center iron. So as soon as I purchase that in Jan, I will need to source two new rotor housings, and the planning of the new motor will start. It will be a motor that is able to hold 800+hp.
Soon as that motor is ready to go, we will pull this one out and get the rear iron fixed and get the motor freshen up so will always have a backup motor ready to go!
So today I had a bit of a play on the Mazda, these are fun things and not having to do anything for rego was really nice!
I lowered the beast today!
One thing i noticed when I was looking at the front coil, the top bolt support was a small skinny bolt? it was like a 14mm and its meant to be a 17mm .. Lucky I have a box full of old FC nuts and bolts and found two for it!!! As soon as I put it in, it gave me a extra 5mm space between the tyre and spring
And this is the end result!!! The rear is as low as it can go, the fronts I need to raise another 3-5mm as it's just that little bit too low... until the guards get rolled they will need to sit a little bit up! But fully looks like a race car and not a 4wd!
I have removed the OEM oil pressure sensor completely as it was screwed! It was threaded and still leaking, so in effort to completely block it off and stop the leak, I have plugged it and used JB Weld on the thread as well as all over it as well..
It seems to be holding very well, and it will be pushed in two weeks!
Having this rear iron is now a throw away at the next rebuild, I dont really care what happens to it..
Having being a sponsored turbosmart ambassador they sent me a eboost HP, so wicked! - it is alittle of track to the Microtech proboost i wanted, but i think in terms of controlling at a touch of a button this may be easier..
I also purchased a bare block, thats already in pieces ready to be built. Picture of the centre iron that has been CNC machined and re-nitrated..
One of my Series 5 rotor.. it's in really awesome condition!!
We will start the planing and building of this at the end of Feb... Also to add to this, I will be building this motor myself along with my engine builder, so time to learn!!
Currently as we speak the car is at the Exhaust shop getting a down pipe back 3.5inch exhaust..
On the 13th the car will be taken to Sydney to be tuned, and will be taking it to the Drag Strip that night if it all goes to plan and nothing breaks!
10-26-18, 05:30 AM
