Easy fix at least.

 

It runs!

after swapping the 5V and the ground, the MAP sensors work fine.

after that I tried to start it and it wasn't getting crank... There was some inconsistencies in the gold box documentation on whether to use the crank - or the sensor ground for the ground for the crank trigger... it turns out crank - might not be connected to anything lol. so the crank is now hooked up to sensor ground, and the car started!... but ran like poo (on one rotor)

after more debugging I wasn't getting spark on outputs B and C (and later found out wasn't getting most of my injectors firing either). I'm surprised the car started at all.

after more debugging I found out that the original docs I had for a v1.0 gold box numbers the coil outputs by cylinder number... not actually spark output number... which are not the same at all (this is fixed in later documentation). so after repinning the coils and injector wires it started right up. took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work fine.

there is some breakup around 7500 that I'll have to look into (maybe increase the dwell on the ign-1as, currently only running 3ms)

 

Very glad to hear you got it running. Did your existing tune plug straight in from the MS3X?

 

Yup, besides the stuff that I changed (external map, coil on plug, and changing to the gm coolant sensor)

 

Was a really busy weekend...

went to a national autocross and co-drove my buddies z06 on Friday+Saturday (I'm getting better, but still suck at driving both corvettes and street tires)

came home early and threw the RX-7 together and raced it on today at my local autocross event.

I forgot how amazing autocrossing this car is (sorry no video )

ended up 4th in SM out of 15 and 23rd in PAX (index) out of 254 cars... I'm pretty happy with it. the two cars in front of me were a 500hp subaru and a 600hp subaru

Live Results - Generated: Sun 04-30-2017 16:57:34 / Every 1 min

I broke the front supports on my splitter a few times this weekend... so I need to fix/re-engineer that

I also blew both e-fan fuses on the way to the autocross. apparently 2 20A fuses aren't enough for the SPALs, so they have 30A fuses now. worked fine all day.

water pump worked well. The car still heats up ALOT on course, but now it cools down quickly and being able to turn the car off and have the fans and water pump still run in grid is pretty awesome.

up next I need to setup all the CAN stuff to have the MS and race capture share data and then I'll work on an E85 tune

 

So, with your new ecu, can you still run in SM or will you have to move into a prepared class? I'm in that dilemma right now. I want to get a stand alone but I don't want to go into prepared.

 

Yeah, standalones are legal in street prepared. that carries over into street mod.

they're actually legal in street touring if you do it right (it has to be in the stock ECU case)

I've been running megasquirts for ~10 years... this is just the latest iteration.

 

So I went in and setup all my analog inputs in both the MS and the Racecapture.

- It looks like my EGT probes are already dead (reading close to 5V at room temperature) which stinks.
- I also got the wrong sensor for my fuel pressure, so I'll nee to get another one (the one I got's range starts from absolute zero, instead of normal pressure, like a MAP sensor)

everything else appears to work fine.

last night I got CAN Broadcasting working on the megasquirt. it was easier than I expected.

I just went in an enabled "CAN Dashboard broadcasting" and then setup what channels I wanted to get on the racecapture telemetry box.

you can see here that I have coolant, AFR, TPS, MAP and RPM currently mapped over from from the megasquirt:



I then setup solo storm (my autocross data recording phone app) to use the GPS, gyroscopes and other data from the race capture box and that works. So my videos will at least have throttle position in them now


now i just have to figure out how to get the extra analog inputs from the race capture box (TSS, EGT, OilP, Baro) and additional stuff like GPS based speed into the megasquirt... it's not immediately apparent how to get racecapture to CAN broadcast stuff.

 

Well, I don't feel as bad now. Street prepared works better than prepared. I definitely don't have enough driver mod for that class. Thanks!

 

So here is the aftermath of last weekend's autocross:



replacing splitter struts is getting silly, so I decided to fix the issue with steel cable. if the splitter touches the ground, it'll just rotate on the rear mounts instead of breaking front supports:



I also resealed between the splitter and the air dam. I previously had aluminum tape on the back and that didn't last long at all. clear silicone caulk should be much better:

 

What about a shot of black paint? I hear that adds 10 WHP

 

I concur, it will look awesome in matching matte black! Do it Mike!

 

Duplicolor truck bed liner and a top coat of flat black, he already knows what to do.

 

by popular demand:

 

 

My rear splitter supports also bent at the last autocross for the second time (probably when I rammed it into the ground)

they probably didn't need to be beefed up, but I'm tired of making new ones... so I ordered some 3/16" wall 1" square tube from mcmaster and went to town:



I also got some quick release pins for the splitter front cables so it should be pretty easy to get on and off now.

autocross this Saturday, hopefully I'll remember to get some video

 

drove the car to work yesterday. noticed three things:

it appears that the gold box's serial port isn't powered which is annoying, since it won't power my Bluetooth adapter. They re-did it on the newer versions so that might be fixed now.

my wideband o2 sensor (Bosch LSU 4.9) seems to have called it quits again. Instead of buying a new sensor, I bought a new controller... (somehow I convinced myself it made financial sense) more on that when it shows up.

ignition break up is still there... it got much better at the autocross for some reason (breaking was only at 8.5k) but normally on the street it's closer to 7 - 7.5k... it might be temperature / warm up enrichment related. I got the new IGN1A connector pins to rewire the coils so that'll be happening soon.

 

It was a wet autocross....



new splitter hardware:


new video with RPM and throttle position... the sync is a bit off. I got beat by an STI on hoosier wets and an evo on RE71Rs.... but still did decent for being on slicks in the rain.

 

Can you come help get mine running right?

 

Ha! What's wrong with it now? I thought we got it fixed?

 

Smokes like a freight train. Idles at 2500 rpm...I dont know whats wrong just yet. Gonna take out the PTFE intake gasket and put a stock one in, and look at the oil level. It may be over filled. It does run BETTER though haha

 

Ok, so the new hotness is here:



This controller is built by ECM which makes lab grade stuff for OEMs. and the sensor is an NTK unit that is supposed to last a lot longer. We'll see how it goes. I've heard nothing but good things.

I'll throw my techedge in the corolla if I ever get it running again. It's had a very dead LC-1 for a while.



On the way to the last autocross my wipers stopped working which sucked... I dug into them today and found broken plastic ball joints... yay Looking at the rest of the linkage it has a bunch more of these ball joints in it, so I'll probably just replace the whole thing while I'm in there with a new one from mazdaspeed.

 

Which NTK sensor did you get? Production grade or calibration grade? Will be interesting to see how this holds up in comparison

 

Calibration grade... but I actually got it on amazon because the sensor was cheaper by itself than just the markup on their site

so I have a spare 4.9 LSU I got for free with it... The box can switch back and forth with a jumper.

 

Kickass work on the splitter and nice driving in the wet!