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Old 08-16-17, 09:47 AM
  #1176  
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lateral grip in general or mostly noticed at entry or exit? What rear toe in are you running?
Old 08-16-17, 10:21 AM
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I'm gonna guess you need more lateral grip on exit? I'm kinda wondering if you need to change the toe instead of/along with camber. Are you really rolling the tires over that much? Hoosiers seem like they like more camber though.
Old 08-16-17, 10:44 AM
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yeah, it's mostly on exit, but I wouldn't mind more everywhere

it's been a while since I've gotten good pictures of my car on exit, and temps are harder to read on the back of a car that spins tires...

I think I have 3/16" of toe in on the back, so a decent amount... maybe I'll try and add more.

hoosiers love camber. I'm actually going to try to get a bit more up front too (I'm at -3.5* now)

A local DSP E46 that's driven very well and got top pax by almost a second runs -4.2* of camber in the front and -2.2* in the back

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Old 08-16-17, 09:40 PM
  #1179  
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I am at 1/4" rear toe in for what it is worth. The car loves it. It will still step out a bit on exit but does not lose a lot of drive and is controllable. It made the car so much more consistent and predictable. With 1/16" and 1/8" rear toe in, it was like driving on the razors edge and I had to wait on the car to get back to the gas.

On my Maxxis RC-1 tires I run -1.5 camber in the back and they wear near perfect.

How did you get ahold of LRB? I have an email in to them about an undertray and have gotten no response.

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Old 08-16-17, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LargeOrangeFont
I am at 1/4" rear toe in for what it is worth. The car loves it. It will still step out but does not lose a lot of drive. It made the car so much more consistent and predictable. With 1/16" and 1/8" it was like driving on the razors edge in every corner.

On my Maxxis RC-1 tires I run -1.5 camber in the back and they wear near perfect.

How did you get ahold of LRB? I have an email in to them about an undertray and have gotten no response.
I emailed them... but they just moved shop, so they've understandably been a bit unresponsive. just ping them again and they'll probably get back to you.

next autocross isn't until october... but I think I'll get the rest of the camber out of my fronts (not much probably up to 3.6 or 3.7), change the rear camber to -2.2* (which will mean one stock link and one ronin stage 1 link, since I'm at a stage 1 and stage 2 now).

and maybe add some more toe in.

I've been hesitant to add more rear toe in since I've been having understeer woes. the new tires helped that a lot, but it's still there a little... and razors edge isn't necessarily a bad thing in autocross. I'll probably give more a try though
Old 08-17-17, 04:38 PM
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I was going to mention that watching the video it looks like you are fighting lack of front grip a lot more than having oversteer issues at corner exit. But watching and feeling it when driving are obviously completely different... Just looks like you have the wheel cranked all the way over in the corners and not moving the wheel until you mash the throttle a little too hard. I would argue you need to work on front grip more than rear
Old 01-11-18, 12:43 PM
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minor update....

at the last event of the season I finally broke my drive side door handle... it had a good run, and according to the forum, lasted much longer than most.



I ordered a new one through mazdaspeed (a non-fancy one from a non-turbo, because turbo ones are silly expensive). After a few tries I think I got the paint match down pretty well with a spray can...

Old 01-11-18, 12:52 PM
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I'm also still slowly working on the e85 conversion (I'll get there soon, I swear )

the fuel tank still had my old tired walbro 255 that's been in there since the dawn of time. I decided to replace it with a walbro e85 450L pump, mainly for the e85 comparability more so than the flow. the walbro e85 450 in the surgetank takes care of most of the flow needs, this pump is less important.

I also took this time to find out why my fuel pump assembly doesn't seal properly. it turns out the cover was pretty warped... not sure how this happened. but in order to both wire up the walbro 450 (lots of amps) and fix the warped fuel pump assembly, I ordered an SKM fuel pump hanger: https://www.stukellymotorsports.com/...ending-unit-an

it's overkill, but cheaper than a new fuel pump hanger.

I adapted the inside -6AN to 3/8" barb and the top side ones to 5/16" barb to hook up to some normal e85 compatible rubber hose. I also added an aluminum drain tube to put the fuel back into the fuel pump baffle.

topped off with the stock fuel level sensor and a new gasket and it should be good to go.





Old 01-11-18, 02:43 PM
  #1184  
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I'm surprised there is a part # difference between turbo and NA door handles. My driver side is still original! passenger - not so much.
Old 01-11-18, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
I'm surprised there is a part # difference between turbo and NA door handles. My driver side is still original! passenger - not so much.
There are a few differences. My handles had the lighted key hole and also 2 different switches mounted on it for the car alarm. it's really the Base/GTU car vs. the GXL/Turbo
Old 01-15-18, 08:58 PM
  #1186  
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re-wiring my fuel pump.... I never actually did this,I just routed around the factory fuel pump resistor relay. and it shouldn't really be an issue since the surge tank fuel pump is the one that matters, but the walbro e85 450L fuel pump can draw 22 amps... so I thought it would be best to do it anyway.

converted everything to weather pack. wired the fuel pump through a relay triggered by the stock fuel pump wires feeding 10 gauge wire directly from the battery (fused on a 30A fuse)

wiring for the low fuel light and fuel level gauge are routed through the stock plug.

I also grounded the fuel tank hanger because it looks like that's how the fuel level circuits work.

I also had to flip the fuel pump access panel in order to get enough room for the new fuel pump hanger



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Old 03-19-18, 06:18 PM
  #1187  
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Originally Posted by eage8
Got a new LRB undertray with slots in it to let the v-mount breath a bit better:

Hey man, could you share some feedback on the LRB tray? Any complaints?
Old 03-19-18, 08:12 PM
  #1188  
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
Hey man, could you share some feedback on the LRB tray? Any complaints?
That's actually my second one... so no, no complaints, it's a nice piece . I have one of their radiator panels too which LRB was nice enough to cut me a custom one without some of the holes that I didn't need. Great guy to work with.

The undertray doesn't match up with my bumper very well, but neither did the stock one... I think I'm missing some trim up there. But I put some nutserts in the undertray so I can screw the bolts into the undertray instead of whatever clips are supposed to be in the bumper and it works fine.
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Old 03-20-18, 05:27 AM
  #1189  
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Originally Posted by eage8
I'm also still slowly working on the e85 conversion (I'll get there soon, I swear )

the fuel tank still had my old tired walbro 255 that's been in there since the dawn of time. I decided to replace it with a walbro e85 450L pump, mainly for the e85 comparability more so than the flow. the walbro e85 450 in the surgetank takes care of most of the flow needs, this pump is less important.

I also took this time to find out why my fuel pump assembly doesn't seal properly. it turns out the cover was pretty warped... not sure how this happened. but in order to both wire up the walbro 450 (lots of amps) and fix the warped fuel pump assembly, I ordered an SKM fuel pump hanger: https://www.stukellymotorsports.com/...ending-unit-an

it's overkill, but cheaper than a new fuel pump hanger.

I adapted the inside -6AN to 3/8" barb and the top side ones to 5/16" barb to hook up to some normal e85 compatible rubber hose. I also added an aluminum drain tube to put the fuel back into the fuel pump baffle.

topped off with the stock fuel level sensor and a new gasket and it should be good to go.





Nice build thread mate! I like the way it's going.. I will plan eventually to go the IRS 8.8 diff as well, I will have to shoot a message when I blow mine up! LOL

just a question about that fuel pump hanger, doesn't the FD one fit into the FC? or are they completely different?
Old 03-20-18, 07:44 AM
  #1190  
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Originally Posted by eage8
That's actually my second one... so no, no complaints, it's a nice piece . I have one of their radiator panels too which LRB was nice enough to cut me a custom one without some of the holes that I didn't need. Great guy to work with.

The undertray doesn't match up with my bumper very well, but neither did the stock one... I think I'm missing some trim up there. But I put some nutserts in the undertray so I can screw the bolts into the undertray instead of whatever clips are supposed to be in the bumper and it works fine.

Thanks for the feedback! The oem plastic undertray on my FC has seen better days, and with these cars, I am starting to hate ANYTHING made our of plastic.
Old 03-20-18, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by YLD 78U
Nice build thread mate! I like the way it's going.. I will plan eventually to go the IRS 8.8 diff as well, I will have to shoot a message when I blow mine up! LOL

just a question about that fuel pump hanger, doesn't the FD one fit into the FC? or are they completely different?
They're different.

built2apex just came out with a new one that's much nicer than the one I got, but I just replaced mine because my stock hanger was warped and leaking and also needed a wire pass-through for the thicker gauge wire to power the 450L walbro (for e85).
Old 03-25-18, 12:22 AM
  #1192  
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Did you modify your hood so you can run a front strut bar?
Old 03-25-18, 07:32 AM
  #1193  
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Originally Posted by galaxy convoy
Did you modify your hood so you can run a front strut bar?
No.
Old 04-28-18, 06:27 PM
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I found a solution to my blow off valve space constraints.... Looks like borgwarner recently started making an angled cap which fits great. I also threw in a borg warner aftermarket stiffer spring while i was in there just to make sure it seals.



Old 04-28-18, 06:30 PM
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I also finally found out why the top of my fuel tank has been leaking for as long as I can remember (10+ years?)

apparently I put bolts there were too long through the stock fuel pump hanger 10 years ago... and the way that the tank is built, it actually pierced through the top of the tank and the stock gasket no longer seals it at all... fuel leaks out from between the tank flange and the tank itself.

I make a last ditch effort to try and seat it up with some hylomar (it's fuel safe ) but that didn't seem to fix the issue either....

looks like I'll have to get a used replacement tank which is a shame because my tank is super rust free inside...

Last edited by eage8; 04-28-18 at 06:32 PM.
Old 04-29-18, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by eage8
I also finally found out why the top of my fuel tank has been leaking for as long as I can remember (10+ years?)

apparently I put bolts there were too long through the stock fuel pump hanger 10 years ago... and the way that the tank is built, it actually pierced through the top of the tank and the stock gasket no longer seals it at all... fuel leaks out from between the tank flange and the tank itself.

I make a last ditch effort to try and seat it up with some hylomar (it's fuel safe ) but that didn't seem to fix the issue either....

looks like I'll have to get a used replacement tank which is a shame because my tank is super rust free inside...
What's the damage look like? You might be able to get away with a QuikSteel repair. I've had great luck with that stuff on a variety of surfaces.
Old 04-29-18, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 95maxrider
What's the damage look like? You might be able to get away with a QuikSteel repair. I've had great luck with that stuff on a variety of surfaces.
it's just 8 M6 sized holes in the top of the tank.... I didn't think of epoxying it. that's not a bad idea. I'll have to see if it's fuel/ethanol safe.

I'd have to get it super clean first... especially since my tank is filled with 2-stroke
Old 04-29-18, 10:57 PM
  #1198  
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Yea Water Weld or Quick Steel would probably work. Just clean the area with lacquer thinner.
Old 04-30-18, 09:35 AM
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Ordered:
Amazon Amazon

We'll see how this goes.
Old 04-30-18, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by eage8
Ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2CDUWE/

We'll see how this goes.
I sure hope that's a better product than the JB Weld SteelStik I ordered. It was all crumbly and didn't smush/mix very well. I've never had an issue like that with QuikSteel.


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