Ahh Ok, maybe I was a little too excited to se the car moving lol. I would like to know what you think as I may go through with this over winter.

 

drove it to work today.... a few times the steering was pretty stiff, can't tell if I'm binding my lower ball joints (which are modified AWR roll center adjusting w/ bearings) or if it's just the added caster... hopefully just the latter. it wasn't too bad (I still have power steering )

other than that they feel really nice so far.

I need to re-align it since it added a bunch of toe in. (I did a quick check with my toe plates)

final opinions after it gets autocrossed.... I can't really get a good idea of them well on the street.

 

That's awesome to hear, it may sound like the added caster messed with your alignment settings besides the toe.... maybe... lol
I'm also wondering, I looked at Super Now's bushings and noticed they had drilled and additional hole on the sub frame. Was this to help aid with negative camber?
I'm aware that PBM makes a set of arms that are longer to help the similar issue.
I'm happy to hear everything is coming together can't wait for updates!

 

Had a super busy week/weekend and was rushed at the autocross... (ended up doing a quick front toe alignment the morning of the autocross which ended up being dead nuts on which was nice). The bad news is I forgot my camera....

Short story, the front suspension is great, the course was super fast so there were only a few tighter corners, but the car behaved beautifully and didn't push nearly as much as it usually does. Now I just have to work on the driver mod some more.... I feel like I've been going backwards in that regard recently.

The additional bolt hold is to raise the front roll center. Instead of spacing the front balljoint down like mine is, they're moving the inner pivot up. it does the same thing. It also has the added benefit of decreasing anti-dive in the front suspension. I'm not allowed to change chassis attachment points in my class, so I can't do that

PBM's longer arms add camber, but are mainly like that to add steering angle for drifters. they move their camber plates way out too match the arms to give more room in the wheel well for the wheel to turn.

 

Got some weather stripping from mcmaster carr and sealed up the splitter a bit better which had the added bonus of getting rid of sharp metal edges:


also took apart my broken turn signal... it's not only not salvageable, but also the most overly complicated device man has ever come up with... mazda wants $300 for a new one so I bought one on ebay....



Here is a video of the autocross a few weeks ago:

 

non-rx7 stuff:

I bought an AW11 MR-2 a while back to start rallycrossing which has been fun (8 years of rallycrossing the subaru got boring)

I then quickly killed the MR2 because they have terrible air intake systems which just sucks up lots of dirt.... almost like they weren't designed for rally cross I'll be swapping what's left of the corolla's drive train into the MR2

last weekend I raced my friend's stock miata... besides being slow, it was a lot of fun:

 

The RX-7 finally got a new set of street tires... the 5+ year old Nitto NT01s were no longer cutting it. (I would die if it rained)

Threw some 315/30/18 BFG Rival-Ss on the 18x10.5 RP-F1s I've had sitting in the basement. The offset is much nicer.

old tires:


new tires:






My 17x10 +35 FN01R-Cs are now for sale if anyone is interested.... 2 matte black and 2 gold.

 

This is turning out sweet!!! The car looks a bit faster, I'm not sure if you're getting better or the car is responding better to your inputs.
As for the wheels is there a link you have where they're sold? I'm just curious.

 

It's actually getting slower haha.... I think the slicks are pretty heat cycled at this point. The bearings and/or the added caster definitely made it nicer to drive.

Which wheels are you talking about? The old ones or the new ones?

The old ones aren't sold anymore, they're long since discontinued.

 

So on the way home from autocross sunday my craig davies water pump controller decided it didn't want to turn my fans on anymore..... that was fun.

I hot-wired my fans to run all the time and made it home. Need to find out why it's doing that, plus wire up a backup manual fan switch.

The only reason I have the water pump controlling the fan relays is so it runs the fans after I turn the car off which is nice after an autocross run (since the water pump is still running). might have to have the megasquirt control it too.

 

17x10 +35 FN01R-Cs, you said you were selling them and you usually post a link in the for sale section. Lol that's what I was asking in a vague format. My bad, however that is weird it quit on you all of the sudden. Power lost from a connection to the water pump? A fuse?

 

No for sale thread yet... I'll post one when I get around to it, I'm not in a hurry. I need to do some research to find out what a good price for them is these days.

The water pump controller was still working find and thankfully turning my water pump on... it just didn't turn the fans on. when I got home I grounded the pin on the controller connector that goes to the fan relays and both of them work fine (and they're on 2 different relays, and power sources, so it's no a relay or power side issue)... It's probably just a failed controller. I emailed davies craig, but they have responded yet.

 

Ever thought of doing a face plated transmission to slam some gears? I've been pondering it with one of my spares but I'm still recovering from all my differential experimentation.

 

cone killing ray, these cars are really good on track

 

What an Epic Read! Loving this build thread mate.

Given me plenty of ideas for mine now.

 

So I have finally gotten my FC out on the autocross course and I'm having some issues. First, the low oil level light alarm keeps coming on under heavy cornering. Did you have this issue? If so, what did you do to solve it? I'm thinking a baffled oil pan but I can't locate one. I'm assuming that I will probably have to have one built. Second, sometimes I fill the oil catch can alarmingly fast. First event, it overflowed after 4 runs. The start of the last event, we ran 6 runs in the morning with no oil in it at all. Then on the afternoon runs, it was 3/4 full after 3 runs. This seems really unusual to me. Any ideas/ thoughts?

 

Built 2 Apex oil pan or baffled insert. Figure out a way to get a baffled oil fill neck or instead of just using a catch can you can plumb it back into the oil pan and run a line from the bottom of the can so it just drains back.

 

Thanks for the lead on the baffled oil pan. I don't know why that didn't come up in any of my searches.
The catch can is not plumbed to the oil fill neck. So I don't think a baffled neck would do any good. As far as plumbing it back into the oil pan, so far, the oil has been coming out very dirty and may have some fuel in it. I don't really want it back in the oil pan. I don't know why it's behaving this way. It has me worried that there is a bigger issue. Do you guys typically get a fuel smell in your oil?

 

Where are you getting the oil from to the catch can then? Usually people have problems with the oil coming up the fill neck during hard cornering which is why I assumed that was your problem. Fuel smell indicates you might have oil control rings going bad and is not normal. I'm not sure how you could be getting oil with fuel smell in it in your catch can and not have that same problem with ALL your oil..... However, you should probably start your own thread if you want more info so we can keep this one specific to Eage8's incredible FC!

 

Any updates? Hope everything is well!

 

Not really

I finally got a new turn signal switch which is nice haha.

I have some other stuff planned... but most of my effort recently has been prepping for a 2ZZ swap into the AW11 MR2 rallycross car

 

Duuuuude, you got too many hobbies LOL

If you need help installing the tur signal, hit me up hahahaha, I just want to see that fc3s beast in action!!

 

Good job on the build...quite a progress in 5 years or so.

 

Haven't updated this in a while because I was finishing up the 2ZZ-GE powered MR-2 for rallycross:


Also installed a lift in the garage which is amazing:


Only other update is the RX-7 is finally running on E-85.... so far so good. it was surprisingly easy on megasquirt to switch over to flex fuel.

next up is to start adding boost to the E85 side of the tune

Goal is around 18-20 psi on E85 so it should be fun...

Here is last weekends autocross on E85, the car already feels faster on just 10 psi.

 

Two impressive things there:

1. Hitting almost 60MPH
2. Your beard/goatee