Thanks guys. On Sunday I was 23rd in PAX index and Larry was 6th out of ~200 cars so the car is definitely getting where it needs to be.

 

Such a BEAST

I want to see this car in person

 

Great driving, both of ya!

 

Finally got a decent intake put together for the EFR...

refresher: The Turblown cast manifold puts the turn really close to my v-mount... so I had to get creative.

possibly due to my nagging, treadstone started making a 3.5" "cobra head" coupler, which basically ovals out the bend so you can get it turned:
Cobra Head Silicone Hose Coupler- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

lots of trimming later and deleting the EFR's built in blow off valve allowed me to get a 3.5" pipe through.

slicing up and welding some other pipes and cutting a big hole in my car got the intake underneath the head light. Using the same filter i had before but switched from a 2.5" velocity stack, to a 3.5" velocity stack.:







There is still some clean up work to be done, but I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. the filter is now right behind where the fog lights used to be.

Did some highway pulls earlier today.... still now boost creep 10psi rock solid... and boost doesn't seem to drop off like it did with the 2.5" intake.

 

That's looking much better! So did you decide to just run without a BOV entirely?

 

Currently... yes. I haven't decided if it's going to stay that way or not yet.

 

Best FC build out there! <3

 

Nice as always Mike.

 

Thanks guys.

Now that the intake is built I can take the car apart a bit for the winter (I have to drive to my welder ). Hopefully I'll start getting more stuff done soon.

 

Having trouble with motivation going out to work in my garage when it's 20-30*F out...

I did get out there for a bit yesterday though and started working on the electric water pump install:

Took out the thermostat and plugged the bypass with a 1/2" NTP pipe plug:


took the water pump out and test fitted the block off plate. it's from xtreme rotaries in australia, they're the only ones that make block off plates for S5s that I'm aware of:
S5 RX7 Water Pump Cover Plate



I then took off the entire water pump housing to do some other things that are coming up... had to take the studs out of the front plate to get the housing around the main pulley. I'll be replacing them with bolts.

 

car rewiring and MS3 Gold install is in full effect:



Things I'm adding:
Dual EGT sensors
Dual knock sensors
4-port boost control valve
oil temp
oil pressure
fuel pressure
flex fuel input
turbo speed sensor
coil on plug w/ IGN-1As
second MAP sensor w/ baro correction

took the turbo compressor cover off to drill out the turbo speed sensing hole:

 

Why exactly did you go with the MS3 gold? For all the extra inputs/outputs? You're insane btw. This thread is not good for me because you're always showing things I either end up buying or add to the list of plan to buy...

 

It's basically an MS3-pro that's $250 cheaper...

it doesn't actually have any more inputs which is an issue. Stay tuned to see how I solved that issue haha... it would have been much easier just to go with the new MS3-pro ultimate which does have a lot more inputs though.

glad I can be a bad influence

 

I just read about the MS3Pro Ultimate. That is one of the most well equipped controllers I have ever seen.

I know you ran the MS3, did you just change because you wanted more inputs?

 

the MS3-pro and MS3-Gold both fix some stuff that was wrong with MS3X. The PWM circuits are better (you don't need to wire in diodes) and they have nicer connectors (AMP-seal instead of DB-37s) and probably some other stuff...

I'm pretty sure the MS3X, MS3-pro, and MS3-Gold all have the same number of extra analog inputs (very few, ~3)

I'm replacing the MS3X because:
- I wanted rock solid PWM control for the boost control solenoid
- I have some connections and got a deal on it I couldn't refuse.

 

You crazy, Mike. How have I still never gotten a ride in this thing....?

 

Just for giggles, I priced out both and the MS3X is about $300 cheaper, if you assemble it yourself. Only $130 less if you buy the preassembled MS3X. Since the harnesses are separate, it really seems like the MS3Pro or Gold is really the way to go.

 

I'm showing a $210 difference between pre-assembled ms3x with 10' harness and ms3 gold. Where are you getting your prices? Diyautotune for the ms3x and edisource for the gold is where I was looking.

 

I don't know , come get a ride at the next auto-x. I think you'll enjoy it

MS3-Pro ultimate is easily the one to go with if you need the extra inputs. you can use a microsquirt for an IO extender over canbus, but that plus the additional map sensors you need to buy on the normal MS3-pro covers the price difference pretty quickly.

you need to buy the MS3X hardness as well as the normal MS3 harness which are both $79 each. $817 vs $950

 

Do you know the dimensions on the Gold Box? The website doesn't seem to have them.





I went to DIYautotune and efisource for my prices.

I added in theMX3X harness as well.

 

it's pretty big... I would say 8"x8"x2"?

 

That is pretty large, but not too much bigger than a factory PCM. Where are you planning on mounting it?

 

Mocking up the fuel system improvements:

new 4 micron fuel filter
flex fuel sensor
fuel pulsation damper
not shown: fuel pressure sensor in the FPD

Ideally the FPD would be closer to the rails, but I really have to where closer to put it.



I'm going to mount it in the stock location... I haven't gotten everything 100% planned though... between all the other little boxes down there I don't think I'll have enough room for all of them:
- ECU
- wideband o2
- duel EGT box
- turbo speed translator
- telemetry box/IO extender

 

Is the FF sensor on the feed side? I typically see them mounted on the return side.

 

It can go wherever, it just depends on where you want a possible narrow point in your fuel system.

people put it on the return line because it's only 5/16"... and theoretically it can limit fuel flow. my fuel lines are 5/16" so what ever...

if you put it after the regulator it can affect the regulator's ability to bypass fuel because it builds pressure behind the regulator.

with it in front of everything any issues will be before the regulator so the regulator can still do it's job and maintain the correct pressure.

I'll have a fuel pressure sensor in the fuel pulsation damper so I'll be able to tell if anything funny is happening.

it's easy enough to change around if I need to.