Brandon's FC Build
01-28-13, 09:16 PM
#103
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I received an email today asking for some haltech assistance so i went ahead andmade up this write up on how I got my car started.
Sure thing.
Have you read Hitman's installation instructions? The first thing I had to do was make sure I had my trigger setup lined out correctly. I never could get the "FSM ,Mazda" Cas stab to work right. But when I used Hitman's"I don't know what I am doing" Cas stab method and trigger settings everything worked properly. Basically you take the cover off and stab the CAS where a home trigger is pointing to a pickup.
Plug these trigger and ignition setting in.
In trigger settings i am running the following.
These may be different because the e6x has a different ignition driver... But the values should be the same. And your coils are smartcoils.
Trigger Angle (anglebtdc) : 64
Trigger Type : Multitooth
Teeth Number: 24
Tooth Offset: 3
Trigger Input - Internal Reluctor
Reluctor Gain : 3 ( i am running 3 but start at 2 if you have signal breakup at high rpm's bump it up)
Motronic Filter : 1
Trigger Edge: Falling
Home Input - Internal Reluctor
Reluctor Gain : 3
Motronic Filter : 1
Home Edge : Falling
Ignition Setup-=-
Trigger Angle (deg BTDC) : 64
Tooth Offset : 3
Enable Lock Timing : Enabled
Lock Timing Angle (deg) : -5
Spark Mode : Direct Fire
Spark Output: Constant Charge
Spark Edge: Falling
Constant Period : 4.6
Internal toggle : off
Coils on 4cyl -4coils: off
Fuel Setup -=-
(Keep in mind that i have not fully tuned my fuel settings and some values may change but this is a good starting point)
Injection parameters : Staging
Enable Injectors : on (or off depending on your timing check procedure)
Post Start temp limit : 79
Temp limit is below : Disabled
Post start time: 20
Ignition Divide By: 2
Staging Bar Number :13 (depends on preference and engine)
Enable Over boost fuel cut : Enabled (again this is a preference)
Over Boost Press Limit (psi) :13
Over Boost Restore (psi) :12
Throttle Maps-=-
Enable zero throttle map : Disabled (i enabled this because i was having trouble getting the idle to run leaner than the basemap would run the engine. Mainly used for motors that have low idle vacuum or have erratic idles like my brapbrapbrap, it smooths the idle out nicely)
Full Throttle threshold : 95
Enable Full Throttle Map : Disable (only used for n/a motors that pull no vacuum at full throttle)
Throttle pump dead band(0-20) : 20 (i need to look this up i have not tuned throttle pumps yet)
Barometric lock : enabled ( i would look up and see if the e6k has a internal baro sensor. Disable the lock if you live in the mountains where altitude varies and tune the baro map.
Barometric Pressure lock(mbar) :1013
Go to Fuel map text mode and enter the values below.
0 RPM
-13.24psi - 2.441ms
-12.094psi - 2.233ms
-10.947psi - 2.393ms
-9.8006psi - 2.648ms
-8.6542psi - 2.935ms
-7.5077psi - 3.318ms
-6.3613psi - 3.733ms
-5.2148psi - 4.164ms
-4.0684psi - 4.706ms
-2.9219psi - 5.456ms
-1.7755si - 6.509ms
-0.62903psi - 7.498ms
I would then go the 2d fuel map page and set bar 14 to 3.0ms and then set maxboost to 12ms select the area of 3 to 12ms using ctrl+arrow keys and hit alt+l to linearize.
select the whole map and copy it to the clipboard. Use the N key to navigate the the map for the 500rpm range and paste the results. Continue to use the N key and paste your basemap in all of the RPM ranges .
N - next rpm page
P - previous rpm range
Then you should have a decent basemap to start tuning off of with your 725cc Injectors This is not a map to boost on, just to start the car and start tuning.
Us a timing light to verify that your trailing plugs are not firing 180 off make sure that you have the fuel system disabled under your fuel settings and timing lock set to -5 deg under ignition settings before you try to start it up.
I didn't have an assistant so i used the following procedure. You can take the trailing plug wires loose put a spare plug in them and let them spark outside the motor enable the fuel system and the motor will run on primaries only since they are waste spark it will not hurt the motor if the CAS is 180 off.
Once the engine is running you can use the timing light to set the first notch for -5 deg on the eccentric shaft pulley. Once that is set you need to verify that the CAS is stabbed right by checking that the front or number 1 rotors trailing plug is firing at -15 deg, simply swap the timing light pickup to the trailing plug you have firing outside and see if the second timing mark lines up on the eccentric shaft pulley. If the mark is not visible then you need to pull the CAS taking note which home trigger you had lined up and line up the pickup 180 out. Revierify timing of the secondary plug and then you are good.
I hope this helps.
Brandon
ps. i just emailed him back, if his coils have smart ignitors i believe they are duty cycle driven.
Originally Posted by Censored
Hello,
Hello,
I See you have ID 725 primaries and an E6X. I am running ID 725/ 2000. Trying to get my car started. Although I have an E6K i would assume values would be similar. My question is what should I set all of my fuel settings at for a base to get started... As far as injection time, Staged, etc... Also using 4 smart coils with directfire TII CAS...If you have any knowledge on settings for ignition that would be great! Thanks in advance!!
Censored
Hello,
I See you have ID 725 primaries and an E6X. I am running ID 725/ 2000. Trying to get my car started. Although I have an E6K i would assume values would be similar. My question is what should I set all of my fuel settings at for a base to get started... As far as injection time, Staged, etc... Also using 4 smart coils with directfire TII CAS...If you have any knowledge on settings for ignition that would be great! Thanks in advance!!
Censored
Have you read Hitman's installation instructions? The first thing I had to do was make sure I had my trigger setup lined out correctly. I never could get the "FSM ,Mazda" Cas stab to work right. But when I used Hitman's"I don't know what I am doing" Cas stab method and trigger settings everything worked properly. Basically you take the cover off and stab the CAS where a home trigger is pointing to a pickup.
Plug these trigger and ignition setting in.
In trigger settings i am running the following.
These may be different because the e6x has a different ignition driver... But the values should be the same. And your coils are smartcoils.
Trigger Angle (anglebtdc) : 64
Trigger Type : Multitooth
Teeth Number: 24
Tooth Offset: 3
Trigger Input - Internal Reluctor
Reluctor Gain : 3 ( i am running 3 but start at 2 if you have signal breakup at high rpm's bump it up)
Motronic Filter : 1
Trigger Edge: Falling
Home Input - Internal Reluctor
Reluctor Gain : 3
Motronic Filter : 1
Home Edge : Falling
Ignition Setup-=-
Trigger Angle (deg BTDC) : 64
Tooth Offset : 3
Enable Lock Timing : Enabled
Lock Timing Angle (deg) : -5
Spark Mode : Direct Fire
Spark Output: Constant Charge
Spark Edge: Falling
Constant Period : 4.6
Internal toggle : off
Coils on 4cyl -4coils: off
Fuel Setup -=-
(Keep in mind that i have not fully tuned my fuel settings and some values may change but this is a good starting point)
Injection parameters : Staging
Enable Injectors : on (or off depending on your timing check procedure)
Post Start temp limit : 79
Temp limit is below : Disabled
Post start time: 20
Ignition Divide By: 2
Staging Bar Number :13 (depends on preference and engine)
Enable Over boost fuel cut : Enabled (again this is a preference)
Over Boost Press Limit (psi) :13
Over Boost Restore (psi) :12
Throttle Maps-=-
Enable zero throttle map : Disabled (i enabled this because i was having trouble getting the idle to run leaner than the basemap would run the engine. Mainly used for motors that have low idle vacuum or have erratic idles like my brapbrapbrap, it smooths the idle out nicely)
Full Throttle threshold : 95
Enable Full Throttle Map : Disable (only used for n/a motors that pull no vacuum at full throttle)
Throttle pump dead band(0-20) : 20 (i need to look this up i have not tuned throttle pumps yet)
Barometric lock : enabled ( i would look up and see if the e6k has a internal baro sensor. Disable the lock if you live in the mountains where altitude varies and tune the baro map.
Barometric Pressure lock(mbar) :1013
Go to Fuel map text mode and enter the values below.
0 RPM
-13.24psi - 2.441ms
-12.094psi - 2.233ms
-10.947psi - 2.393ms
-9.8006psi - 2.648ms
-8.6542psi - 2.935ms
-7.5077psi - 3.318ms
-6.3613psi - 3.733ms
-5.2148psi - 4.164ms
-4.0684psi - 4.706ms
-2.9219psi - 5.456ms
-1.7755si - 6.509ms
-0.62903psi - 7.498ms
I would then go the 2d fuel map page and set bar 14 to 3.0ms and then set maxboost to 12ms select the area of 3 to 12ms using ctrl+arrow keys and hit alt+l to linearize.
select the whole map and copy it to the clipboard. Use the N key to navigate the the map for the 500rpm range and paste the results. Continue to use the N key and paste your basemap in all of the RPM ranges .
N - next rpm page
P - previous rpm range
Then you should have a decent basemap to start tuning off of with your 725cc Injectors This is not a map to boost on, just to start the car and start tuning.
Us a timing light to verify that your trailing plugs are not firing 180 off make sure that you have the fuel system disabled under your fuel settings and timing lock set to -5 deg under ignition settings before you try to start it up.
I didn't have an assistant so i used the following procedure. You can take the trailing plug wires loose put a spare plug in them and let them spark outside the motor enable the fuel system and the motor will run on primaries only since they are waste spark it will not hurt the motor if the CAS is 180 off.
Once the engine is running you can use the timing light to set the first notch for -5 deg on the eccentric shaft pulley. Once that is set you need to verify that the CAS is stabbed right by checking that the front or number 1 rotors trailing plug is firing at -15 deg, simply swap the timing light pickup to the trailing plug you have firing outside and see if the second timing mark lines up on the eccentric shaft pulley. If the mark is not visible then you need to pull the CAS taking note which home trigger you had lined up and line up the pickup 180 out. Revierify timing of the secondary plug and then you are good.
I hope this helps.
Brandon
ps. i just emailed him back, if his coils have smart ignitors i believe they are duty cycle driven.
01-28-13, 09:22 PM
#104
Mr. Fix-it
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Hold off on the ignition settings. You said smartcoils I need to know exactly what coils they are. Be very careful with your igintion settings because you risk burning out the ignition driver in the ecu and possibly cooking a coil.
Smart coils are duty cycle driven not constant charge. Driving them with a constant signal can damage compnents.
Smart coils are duty cycle driven not constant charge. Driving them with a constant signal can damage compnents.
01-28-13, 09:25 PM
#105
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I also finished out the cowls for the v-mount today. I used a hand grinder, drill, reamer andthe stairs to the house as a brake to form one piece. I started with cardboard and a magic marker to start and used a razor bladeto trim and fit my patterns. Then I used the drilland grinder tocutthe parts. 
01-28-13, 09:28 PM
#106
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They made a huge difference, I was running my fan on the radiator today but after installing the cowls it didn't come on at all. Forcing the air through the coils made a huge improvement. I also Installed a e-fan on the intercooler and wired it up to the Haltech and used the intercooler fan feature. More to come.
01-28-13, 09:44 PM
#108
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I ran the output wire on my AEM WBO2 to the O2 wire of the ecu, configured the o2 to 5v and memorized the voltage. I shoot for 1500mV to 1900mV. I log straight off of the air/fuel channel and just read the voltage value. I been tempted to use the spare a/d channel to log them as stioch values.
Last edited by Brandon Robinson; 01-28-13 at 09:49 PM.
01-28-13, 09:57 PM
#109
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I also have a way of running the Halwin software on Windows 8, it helps to have a copy of Windows XP, you don't have to reload the computer. Just download Oracle VM VirtualBox and install Windows XP onto a Virtual computer inside of Windows 8 and you can run Halwin on the newest laptop out there and switch back and forth between the two systems in real time.
Also if you do not have XP you can goto microsoft.com and download it for free in the windows 7 Windows XP mode page. Use 7-zip to extract the image from the .msi file.
Also if you do not have XP you can goto microsoft.com and download it for free in the windows 7 Windows XP mode page. Use 7-zip to extract the image from the .msi file.
Last edited by Brandon Robinson; 01-28-13 at 10:03 PM.
01-29-13, 10:09 PM
#110
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Well after drudging through the logs and running all of the calculations the ID725/850cc injectors coupled to a walbro255 the maximum safe boost I can run is only 10 psi. 7.4ms of injection time on all four injectors is pushing them pretty hard at 7500 rpm but my a/f ratios look good. After calulating the combined flow of 3150cc/min and converting it to liters per hour i get 189lph at 70psi of fuel pressure. The walbro moves around 200 lph @ 70 psi and i hear it can be a bit jumpy at that pressure. Time to save up for an aeromotive stealth 340 and some ID2000's for secondaires. They look very stable at 2ms where I plan on staging them in and push the flow into areas that let me run E85 or gasoline. I may even go with a e85 fuel cell and dual fuel maps. I still need to run down the numbers on e85 and see if it is even worth the time and money. I have to drive over an hour to buy the stuff because I live near all of the major refineries for most of the country. The only bonus is that the go juice down here is very fresh.
02-04-13, 05:31 PM
#114
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I am still up in the air on that one. One reason I went with such a large intercooler is to avoid water injection. I am maxing my injectors out around ten psi. The detonation protection is enticing plus it steam cleans the internals. I have a 50psi diaphragm pump and the haltech can trigger it. I just need to fork out some $$$ for some nozzles and fab up a tank.
02-05-13, 10:07 PM
#115
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Someone messaged me and I was not able to give an honest answer so I was hoping someone may have some experience and could give us some advice.
I am running a ignition map that I acquired from Haltech but did not pay any mind to the fact that I am boosting n/a rotors until I received this message. I reviewed all of the maps I could load and chose the one with the least aggressive ignition curve. I also found an E6K map that I imported and duplicated the following maps, coolant correction, air temp, Trail split 1 & 2. I have not tested the trail maps yet but they fall within the failsafe zone of 10 deg.
Any input is welcome but please keep it within reason.
I have had a chance to drive the car to work for the past two weeks and have run a fairly rich mixture. I cannot belive the fact that the a/f ratios are maxing the injectors out at 95% duty at 13psi of boost at 7500 rpm. The current map is holding a steady 11.2 a/f on a linear fuel curve with the Injector Dynamics injectors which has made tuning a breeze. I am testing the tune tomorrow to see if I can lean the mixture out to 12.4 and drop it back to 11.4 on all four injectors.
The rotary works water neck did not allow for installation of the thermostat. That really has to be addressed before any real fine tuning can be accomplished. Also I noticed today after taking the car on a long test drive that sitting in the driveway idling fully warmed up that the v-mount intercooler is getting heat soaked by the radiator. A damper between the two coil may solve this issue. My intake air temp reached 112f with the intercooler fan running, the airtemp actually went up after the fan kicked in
. More fab work and aluminum, yay.
ignition timing on 9.4 rotors
Hi Brandon !! I am doing pretty much the exact set up like you and using an E6X but in an old school RX4, I too will be using the 9.4 rotrs with a BNR stage 4 and was wondering what is the over all timing advance and split that you are running. some say 10 degrees some say max 14 on pump 93 gas, with a 15 degree split. I just need some info as to set up right or close to it , I will be running a pre trubo water injection but as a safe guard , the trick is to set it up to run safely on pump gas first.
thanks
Hi Brandon !! I am doing pretty much the exact set up like you and using an E6X but in an old school RX4, I too will be using the 9.4 rotrs with a BNR stage 4 and was wondering what is the over all timing advance and split that you are running. some say 10 degrees some say max 14 on pump 93 gas, with a 15 degree split. I just need some info as to set up right or close to it , I will be running a pre trubo water injection but as a safe guard , the trick is to set it up to run safely on pump gas first.
thanks
Any input is welcome but please keep it within reason.
I have had a chance to drive the car to work for the past two weeks and have run a fairly rich mixture. I cannot belive the fact that the a/f ratios are maxing the injectors out at 95% duty at 13psi of boost at 7500 rpm. The current map is holding a steady 11.2 a/f on a linear fuel curve with the Injector Dynamics injectors which has made tuning a breeze. I am testing the tune tomorrow to see if I can lean the mixture out to 12.4 and drop it back to 11.4 on all four injectors.
The rotary works water neck did not allow for installation of the thermostat. That really has to be addressed before any real fine tuning can be accomplished. Also I noticed today after taking the car on a long test drive that sitting in the driveway idling fully warmed up that the v-mount intercooler is getting heat soaked by the radiator. A damper between the two coil may solve this issue. My intake air temp reached 112f with the intercooler fan running, the airtemp actually went up after the fan kicked in
. More fab work and aluminum, yay.
02-09-13, 08:36 PM
#117
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/2074/=lesrzr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/477/=lessic
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too..._357081_357081
Last edited by Brandon Robinson; 02-09-13 at 08:55 PM.
02-15-13, 07:48 AM
#119
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They do exactly what Goopy said they would do. They spool that BNR stage 4 like it is smaller than a stock turbo. With the twin scroll door closed I cruise in boost at 80 mph. and all I have to do is flinch and I am at full boost. Wicked improvement.
03-04-13, 09:36 PM
#121
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It is not the best video, i missed a shift and didn't push through third. The twin scroll actuator is turned off but it lets you hear the sound of the engine.
