Brandon's FC Build
#51
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Also sand blasted the engine bay and prepped it for paint. Found Carbon Fiber Metallic from Summit Racing for $30 a quart, going to do the two tone...
You can see where overfilling or spilling brake fluid can really damage the fender. The rust was a pain in the a$$ to get off but it was not very deep.
You can see where overfilling or spilling brake fluid can really damage the fender. The rust was a pain in the a$$ to get off but it was not very deep.
#53
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So i finally got down to business and made a decision on what color to go with. Thinking of a two tone brilliant silver with royal maroon underneath.
Before:
After:
Huge difference.
Before:
After:
Huge difference.
#57
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A little update, I always find threads that never go to the final product so I will try to keep this one updated to the end. I finally built the motor and set it in the car. Wired up the ECU and battery and have a semi decent base map that gets me a steady idle. She smokes like crazy and I fear that there was a mistake made in the porting but I will have to wait and see how it pans out. When I first installed teh exhaust it smoke pretty bad for two days untill the oil burned out of the presilencer. The IAC does an excellent job at keeping idle steady even when sudden tune changes happen. Enough talk lets get to the good stuff.
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It is a good ideal when using a Haltech E6X to route the crank trigger wire away from any other electrical circuits to avoid interference. They are stupid sensitive to crosstalk.
Last edited by Brandon Robinson; 11-14-12 at 07:09 PM.
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I though I had blown a apex seal after a good rev, when i realized my coils where just plain weak it would just start firing on one rotor for some odd reason. So i decided it was time to setup the LS2 coils. Here are some pics of my custom coil carrage. By the way those N/A rotors make the BNR Stage 4 scream 5+ psi on a unloaded rev. I finally have obtained the sitting at the stoplight BOV rev sound
#66
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It was a whole lot easier than I led myself to believe it would be. I just printed out the FSM and followed the instructions, made sure everything was super clean and went to town. May have took a few hours tops... The fun part was carrying it downstairs by myself. Also when installing the side seals avoid running your finger down them while checking the spring tension, I cut my index finger pretty good.
Last edited by Brandon Robinson; 11-14-12 at 07:31 PM.
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I will post a dxf that you can use to make your own I do not have the capacity to manufacture more at the moment. It will require a lazer table / plasma table (and drill press if plasma) and a brake press.
#72
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I finally squared away most of the electrical work and added a oil pan baffle from Atkins Rotary. I thought i had left the oil PRV hand tight butiwas wrong so there went a few weeks of lost time. Those n/a rotors are pushing the turbo to opening the wastegate on open revs. The engine is building 7 psi of boost around 4k rpm unloaded, surprised me to hear the bov on the jack stands.
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Test drive number 4 and I have finally worked all of the bugs out of my tune. The trigger signal is strong and i finally am getting the proper injection times. Tuning on a fresh rebuild can prove to be a pain because the apex seals have not worn in yet. I have to contest that Goopy seals do seat quite fast. Mabey 5 gallons of fuel on jackstands and two test and tune drives and they are set. I will post some video later once I have confidence in the tune. The HKS sounds awesome, the car pulls hard but i am having issues with electrical charging. The interior needs a lotof assembly as well as the exterior. If i get a bonus this year the v-mount or fmic will go in. Here are some screen shots to keep you in the know.
#75
I'm really curious to see how you like this set up, I'm wanting to do something similar with N/A rotors to get more low end but other than the 6 port turbo guys I haven't seen anyone else trying what you are doing.