Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

nice bro

Check out those solid motormounts with the a upper poly part...or you can go solid aluminums. Didnt notice a thing when i drop those suckers in the red fc and the motor didnt move at all.

And a nice ACT clutch or os giken will be killer they have a single disk on ebizzle right now.

As far as the wastegate goes its simple take the bolts off try not to rip the orange gasket swap out the spring and your done.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Thanks on the WG tip bro.


As for the mounts I went the Himni racing route. Poly mounts of course. Love the guy's products.

87-Rexxer-GXL

iTrader: (4)

You look a little over excited for having my engine puller there. And let me know when your gonna start the engine tear down. I'll be there.

bd180

I heard that hockypucks work great for engine mounts for the 7. Is that true?

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Yeah I was excited and don't worry...........I wiped the mess
I will call ****.

I ordered a new water thermo sensor today since it wouldn't hurt. ALLsensors now are brand new on the motor. I also had to order a new pilot bearing seal since it was tore up when I removed the engine.

Should rip into her tonight OR tomorrow. Will have some pics of the crack up soon.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Holy **** I have been busy. At this rate I won't get the damn engine in 'til mid August. I need to hustle.

Anyway, I was able to get some free time last night and "sand" off that ******* JB Weld

Here is the abomination before I ripped into it



AND afterwords





I ended up rounding the edge of the rear rotor housing a little bit. Regardless I can catch my finger nail on the rear iron and rear rotor housing mating surface. It should just come off easy now.

Tomorrow I will safety wire the rear and front rotor housings tight to the exhaust studs to secure it from lifting and shifting water seals upon disassembly.

MAN that **** went everywhere when I put the dremel to it. MESSY but those sand paper flapper wheels are the bomb!

I will update soon.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

SO LONG STORY SHORT: I took the rear plate off and found no crack. Dowel o-ring was bad(crazy I know). Instead I found this good ****.


So here is the carnage from this motor.

REAR ROTOR HOUSING
As you can see this housing was fucked from the get go and should NOT have been used.



FRONT ROTOR HOUSING
In better shape then the rear but is by no means a "good" condition housing. Those valleys in the first pic and ones by the exhaust catch your finger nail easily.




REAR IRON: Was in actually great shape. No high lips from seal wear on both inner and outer tracks. the port though......

Pretty ugly IMO

And funny that this little guy was OK. I still can't believe the Dowel O-ring was bad. I tossed it or I would have had a pic up of it.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

INTERMEDIATE IRON
This outer seal lip does barely catch your nail and I am unsure if anyone would re-use it?




This is the front rotor side and it has some interesting wear. Looks to be sanded down for this "outstanding" build.



Sweet ports with complimentary dremel tracks

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

All the sweet corrision from when the motor sat static for 5 years





Good news is there is no pitting near gas seals BUT I dont know if I will use these irons.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

FRONT ROTOR
Looks good and no sign of damage.



REAR ROTOR
Bearings look just as good as front rotor

....however there are two apex seal slots that have a ever so slightly "hair lip". I am unsure if this is bad but if I remeber right you just need to sand them down.?. correct me if wrong





The rest of the engine parts are in great shape. Stat gear bearings look great as well as teeth. Oil pump almost like new as well as throw out bearings in front and rear.

It is just very sad to see such poor craftsmanship from a credible shop. I know that in this case the original owner of the motor wanted the ECONOMY-BUILD but this is re-damn-diculas. I am VERY surprised there was no flaking on the rear housing. BUT in defense of this motor, the son-of-a-bitch was STRONG for being such a Frankenstein build.

I already have used S5 N/A housings on the way compliments of a friend (Thanks buddy). I am negotiating with some people on irons right now and am most likely going to have Dave Atkin port which ever ones I get. I WILL be going with the RA Super Seals. New springs all around as well. Might take a month or two to get everything BUT I AM GONNA FUCIKNG DO THIS RIGHT. No more BS and relying on other people’s poor craftsmanship and negligent maintenance practices.

Will update soon.

calicrewchief

iTrader: (2)

Isn't it great finding stupid **** like that done by the previous owner? I just had my rear-end rebuilt and when the shop opened it up there was an open diff inside. Why?

At least now you can build it the right way with no shortcuts. You'll only have yourself to blame if something goes wrong. Good luck with the rebuild. Your resiliency is inspiring.

cosmo7

iTrader: (3)

fresh build bro. how u like Greddy front mount?

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Forgot to post FRONT IRON port.

BDC

Be careful with that grinding rasp. Looks like you've had a few oopsies.

The car looks spectacular, by the way.

B

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Oh that wasn't my work Brian. That is the port work of a certain shop I won't reveal.


Thanks for the compliments on the FC. I need to get her back on the road.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Took some more photos of the questionable REAR rotor apex seal grooves.

Here are all six..







I cant find a spec in the FSM, All i can find is clearance between Apex seal and rotor apex seal slot.

Project86

damn i wanted to puke when i saw that score in the housing at you house that day. and the ports are scary lookin... but to everyone who is followin this thread.. his car pulled like a ***** fu**.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Damn Murray.

Personally, those slots look out of spec but there's no way to tell for sure without them in hand. I would examine the apex seal wear as well and look for the wear edge to be parallel with the top of the beam. If it goes up and down a bit chances are the slots were borderline when the engine was assembled.

Also that center iron looks pooched....I would be very careful specing it out, I can see alot of tracks on it.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

So I got a hold of a Dial Indicator and took some measurements on both my front and intermediate irons.

I was worried about my intermediate and actually have a 40K one on standby waiting to buy.

Here are the pics with measurements.


FRONT IRON






GOOD SIDE OF INTERMEDIATE IRON


Questionalble side of INTERMEDIATE


most of the lips are .001''




This lip was wierd...actual wear line measured less then .001'' BUT then gradually went up until .003'' goings towards the water jackets.

Not to mention it looks like they were sanded down and the overall rotational pattern looks out of place??


I also measured my rotor apex seal grooves with a V Caliper.

Front rotor Apex seal spaces(all 6) above corner seal area measured: 2.01 -2.04 mm

Rear rotor and the questionable one measured on one side: 2.04-2.05mm AND the other side......: 2.15-2.18mm

Bad rear rotor, ****! Add that to the list.

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

So I have ordered a intermediate and front iron from Japan2La that are out of a low mileage jspec. They are being sent to BDC as well as my new rear iron to get a street port done right.

I am in the process of trying to get a new S4 TII rear rotor but can not tell for the life of me if my good front rotor is marked D or E

My rear was marked C so I assume it is D for the front BUT I WILL NOT ASSUME anything with this motor.

here is the front rotor ID


AND THE BAD REAR ROTOR ID



I will be putting up a for sale thread with these irons and some parts I have piled up over the years. I need cash for this build so I will let some **** go.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

When I rebuilt my motor I ditched almost anything I didn't feel comfortable with and I'm glad I did. The motor was built by a reputable builder but it was a "budget build" with chrome flake on the rear housing that was technically in spec (at least according to Haynes). On this new motor i noticed a drastic decrease in blowby from replacing the rear housing with a better used one and from clearancing new OEM side seals.

If you have to, wait an extra month or two and save up some more loot to do the build correctly. And I agree, it's amazing how hard these motors will pull even with mediocre parts or sloppy assembly. If I raced my car on a regular basis I would just slap some **** together knowing it will be torn down every season anyway. But I did a street build for longevity so I spent more time and money up front.

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

I keep finding things on your build that remind me of things that I've wanted to do, how did you mount the leading coil to the side of the shock there?

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

UPDATE:

So, I had a little hic-up last week with parts and all.

I received my 8.5:1 rotor from Kevin Landers yesterday. Cleaned very well and recommend to everyone. So I put it right next to my other "good" rotor and notice that the RR rotor has a MUCH deeper compression recession..................This STELLAR motor was running S4 N/A 9.4:1 rotors.

I was a little pissed since this was all i needed to start my build......so I thought. Anyhow I emailed Kevin and he agreed to send me another TII S4 rotor for a great price if I shipped him the cleaned S4 N/A rotor.


Now to the IRONS,

As I tore into the wet boxes caused from our thunderstorms all day(thank you post office *****) I opened up the NEW S4 rear iron that I bought from Mazdatrix. The street ports from BDC was beautiful and so so so CLEAN.

Then I open the next box and inpsect the intermediate iron. This unit was slightly used from a jspec motor from japan2la. Again the iron and ports were GREAT.

On to the next box, I open her up and there I am staring at ANOTHER rear iron that is ported.?.?.?

To be honest I was pretty pissed, not at Japan2la or BDC BUT at the fact that this will burn more time from me getting on the road. I called BDC to insure he didn't mistakenly port a iron out of his stock that was for someone else. He called back and said that those were the irons he got from japan2la and he felt silly he didn't catch the mistake. He missed it due to receiving and porting my new rear iron 2 weeks before the other 2 irons showed up. He just got back from Vacation too between the elapsed time frame. He also stated that he would do a front iron port for no charge.




FUN STUFF!!!!!!!

FC3S Murray

iTrader: (7)

Rotors




Irons





The second rear iron



Ports are GREAT compared to old engine








I talked to Brian at Japan2La and he is sending a front iron to Brian at BDC ASAP to get ported. He was very polite and I recommend him as well.

I guess I will start clearancing side seals for this one rotor for now.

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

sucks buddy, no worries hll you already spent a grip on irons and port work she will turn out killer. I am keeping track of your thread bro.

Are you painting it OEM or diffrent color like your blue?