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MAN, I was driving yesterday and my damn shifter SPLIT in HALF!! Scared the **** out of me, haha. Anyway I ordered one of Mazdatrix's super pricey short shifters and it will be here on Friday. I hope it is worth the price. also I had to drive it to work today and shift with a 2 inch length shaft. Sucked big time.

 

LOL that crap happened to me too , so i took out my shifter cut the top portion all the way down to the threads and welded it back on WALLA super short shifter .Then those quick pulls and "MAD TYTE SHIFTSZ YO" messed up my synchros..............That and the fact that 400+whp didnt help either

glad to see you sticking there brother.

 

Much props for the great selection of brand parts you choose for your ride. Very nice! You took your time and did with such passion! I admire that when people build their cars up =D

 

So so so clean.

Your 1/2 shifter face must have been funny though (i can say that because you and the car are ok)



john ny

 

Alex, I thought of welding it but it is FUBAR. I am kinda bummed that this Mazdatrix shifter will be factory height. The one that broke was shortened by about 1.5 inches.

Thanks Hypertek for the kind words. Since my 6 years owning this car I have found that you go qaulity OR go home. We will see how these Prosport gauges last...if they fail, I go Greddy.
I can't wait to see your ride once you finish it.

As for my face when the shifter broke, I just stared with this holy **** kinda face. I honestly couldn't believe it. lol.

 

Installed my Mazdatrix short shifter and all i have too say is.............DAMN! Very nice product. Feels great and best part is I AM THE 1 of 3 WHO'S SHIFTER DOESN'T RATTLE. F*ck yeah, America!!

Also did some more WOT pulls in all gears today and weeded out some kinks in my data logs.
My knock, duty cycles and air temps are VERY low and my AFR's are all starting to stay in the same ballpark area for the designated boost range. I have to say that tuning your self is a very scary yet reassuring feeling. You know it is right when you do it yourself(of course with help from veteran tuners)

I am pretty sure she is very road worthy now and I am actually finally bearing fruit from my labor. It is a very good feeling. I will try to get my cousin to get some vid of my car at WOT in cabin and outside for you all.

 

the short shifter makes a HUGE difference... and yeah, the rattling sucks. The last tranny I had in my car the shifter rattle something horrible... I swapped the tranny out with a better one and the shifter doesn't rattle at all... go figure


Anyhow, sounds like your tuning is coming along nicely... are you still running 10psi? whats your timing map look like(if you don't mind me asking)? I have my Haltech map I used for that turbo somewhere around here... I can send it to you if you want to take a look at it. It was pretty conservative.

 

I am pushing 15psi right now am honestly happy with that boost. I don't think I am gonna go any higher until I decide what I want to do for fuel/methonal set up.

My timing is very conservative as well. I am running BDC's split layout and haven't had any issues with it. Car feels very strong and my knock levels near and at redline are low 20's! good stuff.

Here is my current timing. This map is old but timing is the same as current laod map on my PFC. It is too cold up here to go out and get you a copy of my most current map.

 

I should also point out that my P row is scaled to this boost:

P11: 1.8 PSI
P12: 4 PSI
P13: 6.3 PSI
P14: 8.5
P15: 10.7
P16: 13
P17: 15.2
P18: 17.5
P19: 19.8
P20: 22

 

Awesome thread! Awesome Car! Awesome Dude!

This is one of the sickest rebuild threads i've read. Props to you man, I hope one day my 7 looks this nice

 

Thanks man!

I am determined to keep this thread updated and NOT include a DOOMSDAY post about how the engine blew up! I am being very conservative and cautious with this build/tune. All the great help and advice I have got from everybody on this forum has been wonderful and greatly appreciated!

 

Nothing wrong with a doomsday post! The key is the follow-up rebuild post



Sweet car man, love the blue.

 

Mine does not rattle either. Must be Montana.

 

I have to eat my words! I am driving the FC the next days due to my POS Chrysler in the shop. Just got home from a cruise and the shifter is starting to rattle. Not very loud but a SUBTLE rattle. Man.....oh well still a bad *** shifter.

Lets hope it doesn't grow is loudness or I am gonna have to hold the bitch all the time.

Thanks Classic for the compliment! Ur FC is not to shabby either.

 

Update: Here is a link to a new thread with my latest hic-up.

It sucks but is not the doomsday post. HAHA

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...12#post9144112

 

Sexy-*** car. Good job.

 

Thanks bro.



UPDATE: New mother f*cking plan!! I am deciding to remove all that quick steel AGIAN since I pressure tested today and I have a very very evry small leak. It leaks as slow as what you will see from a coolant hose ect. I KNOW for a fact that will leak overtime.

I have ordered a new LIM and the corresponding coolant orings. I am just gonna seal the holes with enough quick steel to slow flow, apply a butt load of RTV to the o-rings and hope for the best. I know the o-rings will last much longer in time then the whole gobs of quick steel fix.

Best part is I will take my new LIM and block off plates to my fabricator and have him weld them on. No worries of leaks there.

I am my own worst enemy right now with this issue and need to hurry because I am moving in about three weeks. shitty!!

 

UPDATE.....


Well I HAVE TO EAT MY WORDS AGAIN!! DOOMSDAY DOOMSDAY DOOMSDAY... sort of...Damn!!

I have a hair line crack at the dowel casting on my rear iron. It is slowly seaping oil, about a drip every 30 seconds. I was in denial at first and I replaced o-rings on my pedistal, sealed the Oil Pressure port, ect. But i watched it seap from the casting and i just uttered ****!

It IS the S4 rear iron so I guess it just can't take even 360 whp. So sad because I just was about to dyno.

GOOD NEWS is I am going to order a brand new rear iron from Mazdatrix and from what Kevin Landers told me Mazda will send me with the iron with the BEEFIER casting. Kevin says he hasn't ordered a S4 rear iron BUT S5 he has and it was beefier.

So I will take the engine out, pull the bad iron CAREFULLY, trace the port job since I have no template, Port the new one, put in new water seals and o-ring and original side seals.

Gonna be a while before she is back on the road due to moving in to a new house we bought BUT never the less this still isn't as BAD AS A BLOWN engine.

Will update wiith picture during the removal and install. **** me sideways man!

 

Wow sry to hear that know what it feels like but i lost bout 5 QTS of oil in a Quiktrip parking lot after racing a turbo MR2 that was from that rear iron blowing and yes it was S4 TII

 

DAMN S4 rear irons!!

 

Purchased a new one today from Mazdatrix. They told me that the new one will come with the most updated thick casting made.

However Mazdatrix highly recommended replacing my rear rotor housing since they said that the dowel pin hole stretches and will cause the new one to break over time.

I am skeptical because in my situation:

1) I have no way of knowing if the previous owner of this motor pre-ignited it a couple times and started the crack and it had finally worked its way to the surface

2) most cracked rear irons BLOW up and are a cause from pre-ignition. My crack is hairline and is only seaping VERY slow. Also I am not pushing excessive boost(15psi) and I have a hard time believing that PSI moves rotor housings enough to oval a dowel hole. So many 13BT/REW run 15psi.

I appreciated their input but will wait till tear apart

I will measure the hole with a caliper and see if it is uniform. Hell, I could pull the dowel pin half way and the see if it has any wiggle. If it does, then Yes I will rebuild.

Thing that SCARES me though is I will have to port and from what I hear the rear irons are a BITCH to port and have had many people tell me to practice on bad rear irons so I dont **** up a 375.00 part.

great fun!!!

 

yeah uhh Pineapple Racing told me that since my A/F ration was so lean it eventually did it since my SAFC was dumping gobs of fuel and thats where i ended at.

The i had a local guy who runs a high 9 wth a S4 TII block, i believe, in his Rx3 who is Puerto Rican rebuild my motor using an old trade or trick that they use in Puerto Rico that fixes the problem while retaining the rear iron.

 

Murray u get my PM?

 

Yeah. Pretty interesting how they by-passed it. Since they had it apart why didn't they just get a stronger rear iron? OR did they just leave the engine in and cover the crack in JB weld?