Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Ok so as the title reads my plan is to turn my 88 GXL from a 6 port N/A into a Turbocharged, Bridgeported monster while keeping the auxilary ports. Reason I'm going and doing a full race build is because my third engine just lost compression from blow coolant seals, so I'm stripping down the three engines and machining and porting the best parts.

Currently two engines are ready to tear down on pallets and the third will be pulled from the car. I'm wondering if I'm going to need a stronger flywheel and will definitely be upgrading the clutch. Looking to attain 500+ rwhp with less than 20psi of boost.

Current thoughts are:

DNA Motoring GT45 turbo (reliable for 25-35psi)
Stretching 225's on the Mazda BBS's I have (Hankook Ventus V12 EVO K110)
If I stay under 400hp then I'll run a TMIC, otherwise probably doing FMIC
Custom cooling setup (Currently in the works)
850cc Primaries
1600cc Secondaries
Coilovers (currently looking at Megan Racing and K-Sport)
Custom exhaust manifold, downpipe and exhaust
Custom intake or Greddy compression tube with FD throttle body
FD alternator with dual belt pulley
Hawk HPS pads with Slotted rotors and SS brake lines
Haltech E6X standalone

More to list soon, this is what I'm starting with off the top of my head. And will be posting pics soon.

My only issue is, I need to find out how well this setup will work or if I need to get 4 port housings, i'd like to keep the 6 ports but would also like some insight if anyone's done this.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Oh and the reason I'm doing a race build is because I'm picking up a new frame for an 82 Kawasaki KZ1000 to replace the bad frame to make the bike my daily. The engine for it is a cammed 1100cc engine

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Aaron Cake did it and was kind enough to document it very thoroughly. Project Tina

You have very lofty goals. If you've gone through three stock NA engines, this monstrous engine is not destined to last very long. I strongly urge you to re-think your power requirements until you have more turbo rotary experience under your belt.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

I hope you have the $4000-$7000 for all that to do it right. I'm almost done collecting parts for mine.
Don't forget over 250hp and you risk grenading the N/A drivetrain.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I should've clarified the multiple engines, it's current engine is actually my fourth. The first engine that was in it when I bought it had blown coolant seals, the second engine came out of a vert I scrapped due to cancerous frame rust and the engine is unknown, I got the vert for free and stripped it down before scrapping it. The third engine came from a u-pull-it yard and got returned because it blew the apex seals and damaged the front housing after running for about 30 seconds, didn't even put the hood down and drive it yet. And this last engine I picked up for $200 from a guy who got the engine in a trade, the cats crumbled and stuffed the pipe causing so much back pressure it bent back the apex seals on the rear rotor, and then I ran it around for the last two months as a one rotor and two weeks ago the coolant seals started to fail and she finally lost compression to the point where she can't start without popping the clutch and it gets close to overheating in less than 10 minutes. So I'm finally rebuilding since I will soon have money to do so and all the time in the world to do it. Problem before was that it was my only vehicle. I have a spare transmission and will be picking up a TII drivetrain or at least a tranny and running the Mazdatrix TII - N/A driveshaft. Unless I should just do an REW swap into the FC for this build. Feel free to offer suggestions and opinions

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Also my original build idea was to build up to 320rwhp, my friend has experience building engines and will be helping me put everything together. I just need to learn how to drive it with more than stock power. Currently I'm going to rebuild one engine and streetport it keeping it n/a. The other engines will either be built or turned into a custom 4 rotor project.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Much as I appreciate the desire, I'll bet that never happens.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

^Do this. The cost and work involved in a 500+ whp build is far beyond what you are expecting it to be. And custom 4 rotor is way more than that.

The worst scenario is if you buy a lot of expensive custom parts and have to abandon the project for one reason or another. Part it out for a huge loss. And have nothing to show for your hard work.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Well the neat thing is that with having the bike as a daily, it gives the FC time to be down while the first engine is rebuilt. After that I have nothing but time and money for projects because I don't have a wife or kids to worry about and when I set a goal I do everything I can to achieve it, even if I get it running for say 20 minutes and then it blows up in my face, I can still say that I achieved my goal. However, if successful I would like it to last much longer lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You're going to run into some fairly serious issues when doing this. One of them is that the working aux ports are going to be completely pointless once the bridges are cut.

OK...

That is WAY too much turbo for 500HP, not nearly enough tire, and that top mount intercooler comment is a joke, right?


You mean a big radiator and a fan?

Why such an old ECU?

More to list soon, this is what I'm starting with off the top of my head. And will be posting pics soon.

My only issue is, I need to find out how well this setup will work or if I need to get 4 port housings, i'd like to keep the 6 ports but would also like some insight if anyone's done this.[/QUOTE]

nofords

iTrader: (9)

Like Aaron Cake says, this turbo is wayyyy to big for what you want.

I used this turbo on my race port 4 port turbo road race engine and it didn't spool until 5k rpm.

I have a video of it as proof if you are interested.

Unless you plan on not having your car drop below 5k ever, you need something smaller. Try a GT35 instead!

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

That's the point. In theory I can drive it to the track without it spooling until I get a truck and trailer or at least a trailer and use my friends truck. I need to do the calculations on the timing and duration of the porting as well as determine the rev limit with the bridgeport, yes there will be alot of lag unless i do something like a compound or twin scroll setup with the turbo. I would prefer a GT35 but what I have readily available is the GT45. However this build is a few months off before it gets started so I'll have time to acquire more before then.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

and yes I would be interested in the video

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

And to Aaron Cake: For the Aux ports should they be left open, or closed up? I figure you would know the best way to do that considering Porject TII-NA

The TMIC idea was for my 320rwhp build, in the past year or two that I've been on the forums I've noticed people say that the Top mounts are capable of up to 400hp, so my orginal idea was a TII swap and built to 320rwhp, because it's a big step from the stock N/A and would take time to get used to before going for more power. And to my current knowledge 225's are the widest for the stock 40mm offset without causing tire rub, if I'm wrong about that please correct me.

As far as the cooling, big radiator and fan yes, possibly a larger oil cooler too, but the reason it is custom is because it will be running two extra coolers similar and the right and left sides of the front air dam instead of fog lights, and opening the dams further.

As for the Haltech E6x, yes it is an old ECU, but I already have one with an FC harness attached that works and is ready to drop in and wire up. I know a few people that use them for racing and someone who does tuning with them.

88fc3sT2

iTrader: (1)

Microtech ecu would be a good option as well. As for the tires, I'd definitely look into some wider aftermarket rims so you have more grip on the road instead of spinning through 1st 2nd and 3rd gear.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

What wheels would anyone like to suggest and tires as well and tire compound. Tire and wheel package for my original build was 17" Kosei K1 TS's light grey with Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110's at 225/45/ZR17

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Currently for the rebuild that will take place within the next two weeks.
Note**- Safely = Reliably
Streetporting the exhaust ports.
Removing the N/A sleeves (can this be done safely? If not then I'll insert TII sleeves or just grind away the fins in the n/a sleeves)
Using the RB Header to make a custom true duals exhaust, with the backpressure tube for the actuators.
Porting and matching the LIM, UIM, and the housings and intermediate iron (if this can be done safely)
Porting the throttle body and removing the secondary butterfly (someone let me know if this is benfecial or will cause adverse efffects)
Removing all A/C and Heater components from interior (don't have any of the neccesary components to run them due to removal so in a sense it's weight reduction)
Removing airbox and making custom intake tube with large area cone filter
Venting the hood
Custom air dam for intake and filter (essentially cold air/ forced induction)
New tires- Kumho Ecsta ASX 225/60R15
Power Slot rotors (slotted) and Hawk pads (either HPS or HP+)
Custom strut tower bars (as in homemade, to see if I like the feel of them, I use the body roll to my advantage when drifting and it feels a little different with less body roll)

Will post pictures soon. Already have two engines torn down and removing the third tonight to prepare it for transport and teardown.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I didn't know strut tower bars had anything to do with "body roll", isn't that what sway bars are for?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

You meant anti-sway bars
Yes, I am being a *****.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I goofed on that, I was distracted while finishing up the post. The strut tower bars will be an attempt atcustom work asfar as chassis reinforcement and will possibly be fabricating my own roll cage as well.

For anti-sway bars, most likely Racing Beat unless there is a cheaper alternative that is just as strong and reliable

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The rev limit with a bridgeport is exactly the same as with a stock port, since it's not porting that determines the maximum safe engine speed.

Well, the turbo you have available is NOT in fact a GT45. It's a Chinese knockoff that they call a "GT45" yet none of the dimensions actually match up to a real Garrett GT45. In other words, it is junk and you should go with a REAL GT35.

If you are bridgeporting, you have no choice but to leave the ports open. And using the TII intake means you can't actuate them anyway.

Those people need to measure their IATs because they will be ridiculously high.

[/quote]As far as the cooling, big radiator and fan yes, possibly a larger oil cooler too, but the reason it is custom is because it will be running two extra coolers similar and the right and left sides of the front air dam instead of fog lights, and opening the dams further.
[/quote]

The stock oil cooler is fine as long as it gets airflow.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

What needs to be done to alter or raise the rev limit safely, or determine the maximum safe engine speed? I know that the more air and fuel you can push through the higher you can rev and faster, but idk how to determine a safe limit or change that limit.

I know that the GT45 is a knock off and I've been looking into an actual GT35R since it will be better for what I'm looking to attain.

If I'm keeping the 6 port for the build then would it be best to run the n/a LIM with a custom intake and throttle body assembly that connects with the MAF? Or would it just be easier to run a TII setup or REW swap with a single turbo GT35R setup? (I can buy TII housings and irons right now for $400 that are in great shape or get a 13B-REW from a friend who has a few laying around for a price.)

I plan to create plenty of airflow for the oil cooler, if possible then more than it gets in stock form.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Here we go again.Do it right the first time and be done.Search a lot and read you are way 2 confused and have no idea on how 2 get the results that you want.Get a turbo 2 block rebuild it,do some porting,gt35,good wastegate,upgrade fuel sistem,front mount,turbo 2 drivetrain,microtech or haltech and done!Cant use stock electronics so forget about maf and crap like that.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Then my Haltech completely eliminates the use of the MAF? YAY

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I'm botching the 6port bridge idea, and for now, gonna leave it n/a and do some autocross events. After it's back up and running I will get started on a TII or REW swap and bridgeport that running a GT35R single turbo setup.

Current Parts list:

Rebuilding engine and streeporting exhaust and grinding away n/a fins in exhaust sleeves.
New Tires- 225/50ZR15 Kumho Ecsta AST Blackwall's on the BBS vert rims- $300
New Springs- TEIN S Tech lowering springs- $255
New Fuel Pump- 255LPH complete assembly from onlyfuelpumps.com- $80
New Struts/Shocks- Tokico HP front and rear- $340

Currently have complete stock exhaust with hollowed cats, may be making custom exhaust system based on RB's road race true duals, utilizing the RB header that I have, or I will purchase the Presilencer and Mufflers from Racing Beat and make the piping myself. Will post pics soon.

Also if my math is correct, I should be able to run the stock 460cc high impedance injectors reliably to 280hp.