Awesome, thanks man.

 

Attacked the hood today.
I'm happy to see part of it red again.

 

Finally have had time to work on this again, been removing things from the engine bay and starting to work on the wiring situation which has turned out to be a mess.
Also installed an old Alpine stereo I had laying around, quickly found out about the factory amplifiers. The rears were easy to remove, the front one took a bit of work since both speakers are wired to it.

 

I got the fuel pump out last night, the screws were trashed from rust so I just drilled the heads off of all 8 instead of trying to fight them. Inside the tank looks great besides some sediment at the bottom. Only a stain around the tank where the fuel level was for 20ish years. There is some crystallized residue on the pump and sender. I will post pictures of this soon.

There is a melted part on top of the upper manifold it is (was) plumbed into the bac, what is this? and do I need to get a replacement?

 

Also what is this little wire for on the fuel pump hanger? There is a small sensor? Or something at the end of it.

Inside the tank looks decent.

 

Is that the wire for the low fuel light sensor?

 

if that's what they little brass can at the end of that is, hopefully I can solder the wire back together.

 

Well I'm glad i ordered a new fuel pump because the old one is locked up tight. Doesn't make the slightest of noise or movement when voltage is applied.
Replaced it with a DeatschWerks DW200 as it was pretty cheap.


Going to have to drop the tank as 6 out of the 8 sending unit screws broke off (twice) and I am having one heck of a time trying to drill and re-tap the holes with the space given. But that will make it possible to clean the tank out and install the nicer fill tube seen below.

 

Fuel filter mounts, why did they have to use rubber?!


Permanent fix, no rubber to seperate.

Mazda badge makes it look way better, these are hard to find. Im guessing people break them trying to remove them.

Finally has a motor again.
Also This stupid radiator does not fit, it hits the sway bar, airbox, and oil cooler lines. Hopefully I can make it work.

 

Anybody familiar with these gpi radiators?
I'm not sure if I'm trying to do this wrong or the rad is wrong, this car had no rad in it when I got it.

 

Well I got another radiator, the top-bottom flow radiator from gpi fits just fine. I think the other was made wrong.
The car is now running, just needs an exhaust, a cooling fan, and the rear turn sugnals figured out (fronts work fine).





Looks like I'm going to have to make a custom exhaust system. I have a RB downpipe, just need some mufflers now. Any recommendations?

 

You've made some awesome progress on the car! Did you rebuild the engine you bought or just install it and roll with it?

 

Bought it from someone on here, -=drift*squad=- is his screen name. It was a bare keg when I picked it up from him in Ohio, so far it runs great. I have not checked any of the sensors or timing etc. so its surprising how easy it starts and runs. It is open down pipe right now so I don't let it run for very long, just got it warm enough to move the temp gauge today.

 

He seemed like a pretty honest guy and he said it came from a running car, I took a limited look inside with a cheap bore scope and it what I could see looked great so I'm just running it the way he sold it to me for now. Worst that can happen is I have to buy/build another motor, most important thing is knowing that everything else is functional.

For now the only things that don't work are:
reverse lights
rear wiper
rear turn signals
passenger power window
sunroof (motor works, panel doesn't move)
horn
not sure about the fuel gauge yet

 

I have a Borla cat back system and have been happy with the mufflers. Although I do not think the fit and finish is up to the Greddy or Racing Beat systems.

 

Made an exhaust system Friday and Saturday, also installed new door switches (not direct fit, used self tapping screws).
I was able to break 3 out of 4 bleeder screws loose and thats a win in my eyes. The passenger rear snapped off.

 

The car mades its (second) maiden voyage yesterday, it ran great until I shut it off at the gas station. It seems to be flooding when trying to hot start. I read a couple threads about this issue and will be trying the switch in 3b method to fix it. Also found out the speedometer does not work. Brakes are still weak, hopefully this is due to the passenger rear not being bled otherwise it will need a new master cylinder.

 

So it appears the master cylinder is leaking from the rear and the fluid is going into the booster, which explains the strange bubbling noise after running the car.
Time to order a new master cylinder and hope the booster isn't ruined. I'm hoping for the best as it was functioning normally.

 

Well as it turns out, user error may have been the problem with the speedo. When I put the cluster in I must have not connected the cable all the way as it was just sitting in the dash when I pulled the cluster out to investigate. Waiting on the new master cylinder to arrive before I can verify. These cars really need a speedometer, my wife was following me on the first drive and informed me I topped 100mph. Oops, its a bit faster than I expected.

 

My wife polished the car up a bit, it's looking pretty good. Drove it around a bit today, she drives great just needs small stuff fixed now.