6 Port Turbo Build and Help Ticket
12-03-11, 06:17 PM
#1
6 Port Turbo Build and Help Ticket
Alright Folks its time for me to get serious in my build. I am trying to gather as many information as possible everyday spending hours reading and burning my cornea. I have seen how some build threads in here and as well as Aaron Cakes build. Creativity is not something i have like most of the people in here does. Coming To the point.
Car - 1987 Mazda RX7 GXL
Goal 300WHP to 320WHP at least
When I Bought on Aug 2011
As For Now
The only thing i have completed is Suspension. The car is in excellent running condition. I ONLY Drive this thing in the summer. I wont be touching this engine for the build. i have an engine that i pulled from junkyard is in pretty good condition and everything is apart. According to my reasearch this build will cost me atleast $10000. Below is the list of things i think i want go with. you can correct me if somthing doesnt below were it supposed to be.
The car that i pulled the engine showed 245K Miles, but the inside doesnt look like it.
I really dont want to cheap out on this but dont want to spend too much
1. Does Getting the Irons Lapped/Nitrated Significant?
2. New Housing - Nothing Wrong with the old ones
2. Atkin Master Rotary Engine Rebuild Kit
3. S5 TII LIM/UIM - Port Match
4. Turbo is really hard for me to choose - i was thinking of these - http://himni-racing.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1729
dont know if that is an overkill - is the header/turbo interfere with the frame since the kit is for a TII.
5. For a standalone Haltech Platinum Sprint RE OR Haltech E6X - still dont know which one.
6. Walbro 255LPH
7. RC Engineering - 750CC & 1600CC
8. Aeromotive FPR
9. Light weight Flywheel - ACT?
Looking for a very very clean setup - No Emsission, Not Lot of hoses,wires. i know u cannot avoid all of them
Thinking of keeping the OMP just because i think it is real functional device that mazda put in there. i will be keeping PS and A/C
I know there is a million stuff that i forgot.
People Please feel free to add on stuff in here that help me to accomplish my goal.
Car - 1987 Mazda RX7 GXL
Goal 300WHP to 320WHP at least
When I Bought on Aug 2011
As For Now
The only thing i have completed is Suspension. The car is in excellent running condition. I ONLY Drive this thing in the summer. I wont be touching this engine for the build. i have an engine that i pulled from junkyard is in pretty good condition and everything is apart. According to my reasearch this build will cost me atleast $10000. Below is the list of things i think i want go with. you can correct me if somthing doesnt below were it supposed to be.
The car that i pulled the engine showed 245K Miles, but the inside doesnt look like it.
I really dont want to cheap out on this but dont want to spend too much
1. Does Getting the Irons Lapped/Nitrated Significant?
2. New Housing - Nothing Wrong with the old ones
2. Atkin Master Rotary Engine Rebuild Kit
3. S5 TII LIM/UIM - Port Match
4. Turbo is really hard for me to choose - i was thinking of these - http://himni-racing.com/index.php?ma...oducts_id=1729
dont know if that is an overkill - is the header/turbo interfere with the frame since the kit is for a TII.
5. For a standalone Haltech Platinum Sprint RE OR Haltech E6X - still dont know which one.
6. Walbro 255LPH
7. RC Engineering - 750CC & 1600CC
8. Aeromotive FPR
9. Light weight Flywheel - ACT?
Looking for a very very clean setup - No Emsission, Not Lot of hoses,wires. i know u cannot avoid all of them
Thinking of keeping the OMP just because i think it is real functional device that mazda put in there. i will be keeping PS and A/C
I know there is a million stuff that i forgot.
People Please feel free to add on stuff in here that help me to accomplish my goal.
12-04-11, 12:37 AM
#2
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For 300hp just re-seal the engine with that atkins kit, I think the fuel setup is a little overkill, you dont need or want 1600cc injectors unless you want to make more power later. You can get a way smaller turbo thats less laggy to make that power as well like a gt35r or a 60-1. ACT makes great products so their flywheel and clutch will be great. E6X will do nicely as well. For the most part your plans are pretty spot on though just keep it simple and keep the turbo size down because responsive cars are way fun
12-04-11, 08:43 PM
#5
For 300hp just re-seal the engine with that atkins kit, I think the fuel setup is a little overkill, you dont need or want 1600cc injectors unless you want to make more power later. You can get a way smaller turbo thats less laggy to make that power as well like a gt35r or a 60-1. ACT makes great products so their flywheel and clutch will be great. E6X will do nicely as well. For the most part your plans are pretty spot on though just keep it simple and keep the turbo size down because responsive cars are way fun
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12-05-11, 08:37 AM
#9
http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/4PortLIMTo6Port.htm
That's what you'll want to do. You get to keep the high compression 6 port block, and the TII intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo all fit properly. Send a turbo out to Brian at BNR supercars and get a hybrid for your power goals. I don't have any experience with Haltech, but from what I've seen, the E6k is pretty primitive and limited to what it can do. I bought a megasquirt kit and built it myself for around $400, and the options are almost limitless.
That's what you'll want to do. You get to keep the high compression 6 port block, and the TII intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo all fit properly. Send a turbo out to Brian at BNR supercars and get a hybrid for your power goals. I don't have any experience with Haltech, but from what I've seen, the E6k is pretty primitive and limited to what it can do. I bought a megasquirt kit and built it myself for around $400, and the options are almost limitless.
12-05-11, 01:58 PM
#10
Like karack said, that turbo is WAY overkill for 300-320whp. A BNR stage 3 or stage 4 with a full 3" turbo would spool decent and allow you to retain the stock turbo manifold, which mean nice easy bolt on parts.
The injector combo you mention is a good bit more than you need, but will give you breathing room in the future.
Instead of a walboro I would get a nicer unit with similar flow, think bosch or aeromotive. You're talking about doing a high c/r turbo setup and an engine that already picky, dont risk it on a cheaper pump in your fuel system.
An atkins rebuild kit will be just fine, you could get the rotary aviation kit, which has very durable apex seals. It is however, at the expensive of your rotor housings.
On the flywheel side of things thats your pick, the mazda unit works but kills engine response. Lightweight flywheels will require the use of an ATX rear counterweight. Throw away your non turbo drivetrain and put the Tii stuff in there, its much more durable and its worth it.
The injector combo you mention is a good bit more than you need, but will give you breathing room in the future.
Instead of a walboro I would get a nicer unit with similar flow, think bosch or aeromotive. You're talking about doing a high c/r turbo setup and an engine that already picky, dont risk it on a cheaper pump in your fuel system.
An atkins rebuild kit will be just fine, you could get the rotary aviation kit, which has very durable apex seals. It is however, at the expensive of your rotor housings.
On the flywheel side of things thats your pick, the mazda unit works but kills engine response. Lightweight flywheels will require the use of an ATX rear counterweight. Throw away your non turbo drivetrain and put the Tii stuff in there, its much more durable and its worth it.
12-05-11, 03:55 PM
#11
http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/4PortLIMTo6Port.htm
That's what you'll want to do. You get to keep the high compression 6 port block, and the TII intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo all fit properly. Send a turbo out to Brian at BNR supercars and get a hybrid for your power goals. I don't have any experience with Haltech, but from what I've seen, the E6k is pretty primitive and limited to what it can do. I bought a megasquirt kit and built it myself for around $400, and the options are almost limitless.
That's what you'll want to do. You get to keep the high compression 6 port block, and the TII intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo all fit properly. Send a turbo out to Brian at BNR supercars and get a hybrid for your power goals. I don't have any experience with Haltech, but from what I've seen, the E6k is pretty primitive and limited to what it can do. I bought a megasquirt kit and built it myself for around $400, and the options are almost limitless.
12-05-11, 03:58 PM
#12
Like karack said, that turbo is WAY overkill for 300-320whp. A BNR stage 3 or stage 4 with a full 3" turbo would spool decent and allow you to retain the stock turbo manifold, which mean nice easy bolt on parts.
The injector combo you mention is a good bit more than you need, but will give you breathing room in the future.
Instead of a walboro I would get a nicer unit with similar flow, think bosch or aeromotive. You're talking about doing a high c/r turbo setup and an engine that already picky, dont risk it on a cheaper pump in your fuel system.
An atkins rebuild kit will be just fine, you could get the rotary aviation kit, which has very durable apex seals. It is however, at the expensive of your rotor housings.
On the flywheel side of things thats your pick, the mazda unit works but kills engine response. Lightweight flywheels will require the use of an ATX rear counterweight. Throw away your non turbo drivetrain and put the Tii stuff in there, its much more durable and its worth it.
The injector combo you mention is a good bit more than you need, but will give you breathing room in the future.
Instead of a walboro I would get a nicer unit with similar flow, think bosch or aeromotive. You're talking about doing a high c/r turbo setup and an engine that already picky, dont risk it on a cheaper pump in your fuel system.
An atkins rebuild kit will be just fine, you could get the rotary aviation kit, which has very durable apex seals. It is however, at the expensive of your rotor housings.
On the flywheel side of things thats your pick, the mazda unit works but kills engine response. Lightweight flywheels will require the use of an ATX rear counterweight. Throw away your non turbo drivetrain and put the Tii stuff in there, its much more durable and its worth it.
i also see in the atkin rebuild kit some options with additional charge . anything worth getting?
12-05-11, 05:02 PM
#14
I got the MS from diyautotune. There's an install article there and everything that tells you exactly what you'll need.
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...zda_fc_rx7.htm
Since Aaron kept his NA intake, it required him to extend the exhaust manifold a couple inches. That's why he had to notch his frame. The NA and TII blocks are the exact same size, and the NA and TII cars have the same framework as well, so one fits in the other just the same. So the TII exhaust manifold and turbo will fit without modification, so long as you use the TII intake manifold.
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...zda_fc_rx7.htm
Since Aaron kept his NA intake, it required him to extend the exhaust manifold a couple inches. That's why he had to notch his frame. The NA and TII blocks are the exact same size, and the NA and TII cars have the same framework as well, so one fits in the other just the same. So the TII exhaust manifold and turbo will fit without modification, so long as you use the TII intake manifold.
12-06-11, 11:40 AM
#15
my first intention was MS after reading some articles, but since this will be my first project, i want to stick with plug and play [for the small part].
the clearance issue with the frame make a lot of sense with the n/a UIM/LIM. i cant belive i didnt catch that.
is there a specific bosh/aerotmotive pump u guys suggest?
injectors? high/low impedence?
the clearance issue with the frame make a lot of sense with the n/a UIM/LIM. i cant belive i didnt catch that.
is there a specific bosh/aerotmotive pump u guys suggest?
injectors? high/low impedence?
12-06-11, 12:20 PM
#16
i've honestly not read alot of the turbo swap DIY threads and pages. but the intake manifold will sit in the stock location and the turbo will sit in the stock location, if he was running a spacer and the n/a lower intake then yes, you will have clearance issues which is why most people slap everything from a turbo setup onto a 6 port block where all you have to do is modify the TII lower intake to bolt to the engine and port match as best possible(which = 0 clearance issues). i know Aaron tried to retain as much as possible from the n/a engine, which well, is obviously more work than it's worth by a longshot.
12-06-11, 01:10 PM
#19
Engine, Not Motor
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With the NA lower intake manifold, and a stock turbo on the stock manifold with the 2.5" spacer needed to clear the NA lower, the wastegate actuator intrudes upon the frame. Hence the notch. A better alternative would have been for me to just relocate the wastegate actuator, but hindsight is 20-20.
Question...If you are building the engine, why are you going with a 6 port block yet eliminating the advantage of the 6 port block (the aux ports)? Why not get a TII engine, build that, put high compression rotors into it if you want to, then bolt it in? Same amount of work, much better low end torque.
Question...If you are building the engine, why are you going with a 6 port block yet eliminating the advantage of the 6 port block (the aux ports)? Why not get a TII engine, build that, put high compression rotors into it if you want to, then bolt it in? Same amount of work, much better low end torque.
)
12-06-11, 04:01 PM
#21
Slung all my rods
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I'd stay away from anything ACT with a sprung disc. They have retupable flywheels, pressure plates, and puck/unsprung discs. But their sprung street discs are great at popping springs and destroying themselves.
12-06-11, 06:32 PM
#23
No, it's not eliminating it. If you remove the sleeves and port the TII LIM, then you'll still utilize the aux ports on the 6 port engine. All Aaron's saying is that if you're going to build a high compression turbo, then build a TII keg with NA rotors. The thing is, if you've ever driven an NA engine with the 5/6th ports wired open, you'd know it's a dog in the lower rpms. Then drive it with them shut (inoperable) and it's got good low end torque, but poor high rpm power. The same thought goes for the TII engine. It's 4 port for better low end torque, turbocharged for high rpm power. If it were 6 port, it'd be a screamer in the high rpms, but once again, due to turbo lag and the fact that the 5/6 ports are "stuck open" in low rpms it'd be a dog until 3K when the turbo spools. It's all about finding a happy medium.