psyaddict

Still messing with wires, almost done, just need to hook up the vems wideband wires and i can pack it tight together and put them away under the carpet and then finally reassemble the interior.
Changed the wiper relay(someone has already tried to fix it because i can see some broken and repaired parts on the switches shell), used the instructions on fc3spro,still works only at speed I, so the problem must be the switch itself? the wiper wiring was never cut so they must be right. Also removing the wiper motor ground wire does not do anything. Does the motor get ground through it's shell or what?
New vs old

Fuel system is done also, now finally i hope, much more compact and nicer then ever.


It was a real pain in the *** to put the hose ends into the AN fittings before i decided to put zipties on both sides of the cutting point, really clean cuts and a pleasure to assemble.

We started the engine again to set the timing to zero, forgot to remove the tape from the turbo (tape for keeping dust out) when it finally started there was loud whining noise, luckily the turbo shaft drilled a hole in the tape and didn't pull it in.
My friend also pulled the throttle from the TB and revved up to about 6k RPM for a moment, i know you shouldn't rev over 4k at first, but it was just for a second and not under load. The noise was eardrum shattering almost didn't hear the bov
I love how the rx-7 gets my brain to give me adrenaline even if i'm just standing by it when it's just running
So then i shut the engine off and tried to start it again warm, a few seconds and it ran again, so it seems it's got some kind of okayish compression already.
Hoping to get the air filter today so things like these (tape/dust) wouldn't happen again and i could try if the clutch/gearbox works okay and take a drive in the yard.

One bad thing also, noticed the front sway bar end link is broken off from it's bushing without even driving it, so the mazdaspeed 3 units wont work i guess, have to buy at least 2 from racingbeat. really hard to get the money for all the stuff I need.

Päike paistab, ilm on soe
joodik jookseb ümber poe
vaatab aknast sisse,
müüja näitab tisse
Best spring ever! Sun is shining and warming up everything, life gets cheaper also, that means more money for parts.


And a piece of history for bonus


went to look the car after i read it was running from mazdaklubi.com
even got a ride in it. The guy has a awesome work, In front of they're garage were a lot of cool cars like a Porsche 914-6, Opel GT, Ford hot rod, some american police car from the 50's, a Jensen Interceptor, and many more, inside had a Jaguar Type 4 and a Rolls royce, Mg frame and some motorcycles.

psyaddict

wiring is basically done, AFR gauge is installed, need to switch the polarity of the EGT as i read from vems.hu i guess the whole thing needs calibration also because the car wont rev over 1500rpm after connecting the gauge and throttle cable, leans out also. Maybe alter the fuel map, dunno. I need a guy with a laptop.
With a push of the button the numbers change on the gauge, anyone knows what this 0.89 reading means?


And I have lost the metal thingy that holds the glove compartment locked, that thing is driving me crazy, the tape wont hold at all and the door keeps falling down


I gave the fender to my classmate after i randomly browsed facebook and saw he's promotional video where the guy built a fiber rear end to a drift car. I just dont feel like doing it myself and it's mostly done. Needs some finishing touches.


I ditched the idea of koyorad, because it would take too much time for arrive vs. ridiculous amount for shipping + tax.
So here is a griffin radiator i bought from USPARTS
This one has some serious cooling power, very nice welds also, it's a pity i have to cut and modify it to fit on my car.
Air filter and turbo diaper also.




Never seen a radiator cap that big.

Need to cut that also and replace it with a normal one.

And finally i got my own co2 tank, no more renting one for 5.70 a month
Had to use the last of the old tank and modify my welder trolley, a quick look at the scrap gold bin and voila!


I have my parts now and probably gonna go pick some empty bottles for food money.

psyaddict

Started to cut the rad.



As my friend is finishing a drift car and has no time to weld right now, I started with the next job in my list.
Passenger power window, what never has worked since i got the car.

contacts cleaned, assembled and connected and NOTHING
I thought i can clean and throw in the plastics and seats but nooooo, still have to mess with wiring.

Took me many hours to diagnose the problem, finally I took another battery and connected it to the main power window switch and the passenger window moved.
Problem found- 27 year old wires.
So now I have to run new wires from the battery to the ignition lock to main window switch and maybe even to the passenger side door
And I know i'm not gonna enjoy putting new wires inside doors.

Something good also, i put a switch for the headlights so i do not have to drive with lights up at daytime.

psyaddict

Wrote about this window problem in the local mazda forums and my friend said it's probably the fault of broken wires what have been bent alot, near the door hinges, what is logical and i knew this sometimes happens but somehow didn't think of it. It's nice to have a friend who knows all about most common mazdas here and has a lot of experience, he's like 50+ years. You tell the problem and he knows the solution by heart
So I didn't have to run new wires from the battery, just cut them after the door connectors and just before the switch and problem solved. Although both windows worked i changed the wires in the passenger side also hoping it would make it faster but there was no significant difference, passenger side is still pretty slow. So i just put some thin oil in there, or should i use some grease instead?

psyaddict

Easter weekend was sauna building time so no garage then.. at least I got to break in my rebuilt 23 year old husqvarna chainsaw what belonged to my grandfather who's gone for 10 years now. He sold his lada to buy it in 1994 And I also learnt how to build a house from logs

Anyway I steamcleaned all the interior plastics, vacuumed all the hairy parts and used some textile cleaning foam to get a fresh look. Can't believe how much dirt came off of these parts, it was dirty when i got the car and now its all been sitting and collecting dust on the shelf for 3 years.




Looks like a street car already!




Tried the back seats also, worse than I remember

Cut the ecu box in lenght, had to grind down a few mm of the circuit board to fit. Just needs some connector holes on the end plates.


A-HA! what do we have here!

Some fc interior parts with switches!
Nope same problems with the wipers and thisone even didn't spray the wiper fluid.

psyaddict

have'nt been in garage this week, broke the muffler on my 626 when launching at 4k rpm, so had to repair this. was quite funny to drive like that at first
the not funny part was that the flanges and filling the co2 tank cost money what i dont have.
anyway I repaired it and should be fine for some time.

After that, i visited my friends garage:

The first is my old mazda, the middle one is what we brought from south estonia, although the underbody is see-through rusted and tons of putty on the rear end, its actually almost running (almost because rats chewed some wires) and it's road legal (formally) got my old cars numberplates on it and inspected and everything. Ford v6 pushrod auto-trans. powahh!

Got some parts from them:


Since the woman needs some attention also and i have to figure out how to get money for exhaust(got an invoice from RB Europe and 2 mufflers + 4 sway bar end links is about how much i make in a month @ work) I'm home in evening and can do some stuff only at work for this week.
So i took some parts along with me.

Turn signals:

Chose two best of three
these didnt have any reflectors on them, just cut some 1mm thick stainless and put some foil tape on them.


And the turn signal cancelling unit.. as soon as i got another one i saw mine has something missing..

when i compared them side by side i saw that the "new" one has 7 wires and my old one only 4


I'm not sure why there are more wires on s4 switch but i hope everything works, cleaned the contacts and stuff and the 4 wires match on the connector

psyaddict

Oh the spring time!

The next day:

had to take my hoodie off, it was too hot

I have thought for some time to check my rear absorbers because i think they're toast... and while doing that put on the lowering springs, no money for coils right now.
One was OK and other was dead, so i must find some cheap shocks somewhere, they dont sell almost anything for rx7.
stock spring compared to the lowering

now the car sits on stands- for how long? dont know yet.

psyaddict

Vacuum cleaned and foamed the front seats, they really are worn out, not the cloth itself but the foam. Clearly seen from this pic:

I may let them get repaired, but it wond probably last too long because the original foam is pressed and new will be cut..
I could basically have rx8 seats, but they're electric and leather, i hate leather on a hot day in a car without A/C and the only rx8 in Estonia with textile seats is not a junk car and a guy i know just bought it, so i cant have these

Bought new KYB rear shocks from UK, through ebay. Max. 2 weeks of waiting
Still waiting for the spark plug wires, it's been 5 weeks already, really want to start the engine again and take a drive.
Oh and because of the car is on stands it's high up and I saw where the engine got some extra air! It's on the LIM, theres an uncovered vacuum nipple on there, should work better when its blocked, we'll see.

It seems that all the wires are pretty bad on the car, NOTHING WORKS anymore...
I connected the reverse switch connectors, tried all the different possibilities to connect them and the reverse light wont work, not in 5th or reverse, the bulb is fine.
Also the horn doesn't work, and it sure was working when the car ran 4 years ago.

psyaddict

Oh and i have had this for a while now:

I wanted something lightweight, it was kind of emotional buy, when i first put it in the car i didnt like it, looked like some foreign object, but it feels great. Will do until i get some oldschool jdm ****.

Then it was the steering wheel, I really loved the Mazda Nardi wheel, but when the bolt was tightened it kinda pressed it together and wheels did not turn back straight again (and it was too far away), If i loosened it so it would, the steering wheel came loose and felt wobbly.
So I thought maybe i can combine the 2 wheels I got, use the one I like, and take the longer hub from the other.



It actually fit! at least for the one i wanted.
And then comes the brass horn ring, that new hub didn't have it so i had to modify it to fit.


Drilled holes to it, ańd threaded the small 3mm holes for the bolts to hold it together.

Screwed everything together using some thread glue just in case.

looks decent, and turn signals work like they should, only the horn itself is not Ok like I already wrote..

psyaddict

Took off the front shocks.
They both work and one of them is really good, but they are from different manufacturers.
This is the not so good shock:

the shock itself is not rusted, only the thing that attaches to the hub assembly.
So then i decided to weld it, so it would last for a summer, making sure not to heat up the pressurized parts i spot welded some steel on there to both sides.

Cleaned and painted all the stuff, cause they were quite rusty, washed out the old grease on the bearings what attach to the strut towers, and applied new grease.

they look pretty nice with new paint and springs
CLASSIC FAIL- i always forget to put on the rubber protective sleeves, like every time i do this job on any car

Also painted the fugly fake mazdaspeed fake bronze color strut bar braces to mazda blaze red SQ.


I forgot to mention why I actually raised the car in first place, i wanted to check if the clutch separates and when i removed the small panel on the gearbox i saw loose clutch bolts! tightened by the factory torque specs, i'm glad i checked it because if the clutch had broken then it would have sent me to wait another spring to drive. tightened them as hard as i could making sure not to destroy the bolt threads.

psyaddict

I have always disliked the pedal covers in this car, plus my toe sometimes got stuck on the back of the pedal somehow.

Made in china written all over these.
I saw a nice offer at motooutlet.ee

Only 8 euros, i knew that the gas pedal was way too long but the price was really good.
I actually didn't think anyone would buy pedal covers for their semi-truck or a mercedes sprinter cargo van what other cars do have such a long pedal??? Ok i think some bmw may have something like that..
Anyway i cut it in 2 pieces.

Tried to weld the holes but they became too shiny, i'll try sandblasting them when i have the opportunity, maybe i can get a cast aluminium look on the welds that way.

The gas pedal looks sketchy when it's tilted like that, but it should work fine for heel-toeing, even the stock pedals are good, basically the same shape as in my 626 so i know they're okay.
I may try to fit it more vertically and if i still don't like it I'll just buy the kit that fits the shape.

psyaddict

The big pictures are really hard on my Lenovo 3000 n100 laptop i have at work, thats why i post in small parts a time, otherwise it crashes and i lose everything i have written here.

This renesis has been sitting in my friends garage for some time, low compression.

A good opportunity to make some cash... almost a monopoly position, not many people here are willing to work on these, a few have rebuilt a rotary including myself.

It really had low compression, it was really easy to turn around the engine, but i thought that most parts may be okay.


The 55mm flywheel nut socket breakes almost every time
This time the nut came loose easily.

Opened it and were really surprised in a good way, every critical engine part was in excellent condition, totally reusable, the best engine we have seen ever. Not a scratch on these.




Low compression is probably because of the side seals, measured the tolerances to be more than a 0.25mm between side and corner seals.
then i put together a list for parts we need and all to do now is to wait an anwser from the owner if he's willing to put out so much money. Hoping he does, these cars are quietly disappearing from the streets.

psyaddict

lots of stuff been going on, good and bad.
I got my bank loan payed, so last month was the first time in 4 years when I actually had a bit extra money, much much easier to live now! Wohooo!

So why not spend the extra on the car?
bought a lot of stuff


Got my rear shocks


Got the fender back, not ideal but will do for a while.


Then i assembled the rear suspension and took the car off the stands.
Doesn't look lower visually but when i stand next to the car its remarkably lower!
But it will go a little bit lower when i get some Km's on it.


Painted the rear strutbar thingys black, but damn i really disappointed in myself because of cutting the carpet on the strut towers 4 years ago. I could've just made some holes for the bolts. Looks like **** Have to buy a new one in future and do it right.


Rewelded the turbo drain pipe, it was quite of a welding lesson, of how to tig really thin material to a thick one. One side took like 3 hours, the other 10 minutes

psyaddict

Decided to make a new fan shroud also, because the new rad is a bit smaller and the plastic doesnt look so good anyway.

Most parts cut out for the shroud and radiator itself.

unfortunately the rad cap filler necks I ordered were as big as the one i cut off. I asked if it will fit for a japanese car and they said its standard size. For me the standard was the only size I have seen before
anyway the oem neck can be fitted with bolts like on the stock radiator, so maybe i use this, if the right part wont arrive in time.

Polished the front lights in the bumber, difference is like night and day.. looks so much better.


Finally the plug wires arrived


Got some hoses made, for turbo and oil pressure sender

So now i could use all the senders i had in their right places and all my gauges will work.

I guess i ruined my horns with sandblasting, but luckily i got a horn from an mx5, probably not a stock horn but good enough. Made in Poland


and my mufflers and end links from Racing Beat Europe with a quick and worry free delivery with UPS. It's so good feeling when you dont have to mess with Estonian Post.

BrettLinton7

iTrader: (33)

Looking good, keep up the work!

psyaddict

This is what happens if a renesis front side housing falls on your toe, from a shelf and just with that sharp milled corner what comes together with the oil pan

Happened a few weeks ago actually
Luckily i could walk and drive and i have insurance, so it's actually quite a win situation

Summer is on, and that means a lot of activities and less garage time, but i visit my car as often as i can, after work. i hoped i can get it on the street or atleast driving by midsummer day/solstice, but i guess it will happen next week.

Have been busy making the exhaust pipes for a few evenings now


Painted the pipes with random high-temp. sprays I had on the shelf





I should have put v-bands on the mufflers too, but i thought it wont fit good because the rb mufflers have a 2,35 inch pipe but the v-bands are 2.5" almost the same actually, only a slight difference.

Then i put the RB endlinks on the rear suspension and then my time ran out, don't wanna be in zombie mode @ work everyday.

psyaddict

thanks!

psyaddict

End links done, most of the stuff are actually done, only thing is the radiator now.

I already forgot i ordered the control arm ball joint boot a few months ago, now it arrived..



and a few days after i found a subaru balljoint from my friends garage thrash bin and it had the exact same boot as my mazda, i'm pretty sure the whole joint is much cheaper than a rx7 boot.


then i had time to put together the underside of the front end, all the plastics and stuff, brake cooling ducts and so on. the problem was that all these clamps were rusted and the bolts just broke off.


Until i found out where to buy these i made some stainless clamps @ work



and then i suddenly had to repair my capella wagon, the waterpump started making horrible noise. Took another pump from the engine from my garage.. the point of it was to make the car reliable to drive outside of the city and it all ended with a timing belt cut narrower
couldnt buy a spare part because of the midsummer day, every shop in the country was closed. but it works! and it's good that the engine is foolproof, otherwise i would have bent valves. Last time i did this kind of job @ my school exam.

psyaddict

And about the radiator...
So finally i got my friend to weld it.


and then we ran out of argon, and he had to go to finland for a drift competition.

So if you want something done fast, you have to do it yourself.
I asked if i could use the welder at work at weekend and started learning myself.







Almost done
most of the welds came out quite good, but the worst welds actually came because the welder somehow changed some parameters itself and i did not notice, but now i know. Learned how to feed the wire without ending a long weld finally
I'm pretty proud of the work i have done on it, not the nicest but self made!
Hoping to get the filler neck today, or i will use the stock plastick one...
so maybe in a few days i can take the car to a drive

psyaddict

radiaator murul

psyaddict

Big fail yesterday... fountain of fuel from secondary fuel rail AN6 connector..
just opened it
the o-ring is totally fine, makes me question about all those other AN connections.
Also the radiator leaked from a porous weld, already drilled it and re-welded,
maybe i get lucky today

psyaddict

Radiator doesn't leak anymore. filled it with destilled water, i'm hoping it holds coolant also.
Bought new an6 elbows, i took 2 just in case and it was a right decision because on the other end of the fuel rail was a connection just like the one what leaked.

Started the engine finally, last time was in March..
a few seconds of starter and it ran!
no leaks, coolant went in very easily, car is pretty quiet on idle with the rb mufflers- which is a good thing, the first three gears work..
problems i noticed:
*Still wont go over 1500 rpm. needs tuning..
*VDO coolant temp. sensor does not work, i think it doesn't get ground, too much tape maybe.
*turbo oil feed flange leaks, have to tig weld it i guess.
*clutch works, but needs more bleeding.(i may build some kind of pump to press air out of the system.)
and ofcourse a lot of stuff to do..
A quick video of it running, with the RB mufflers:

hoping to drive it today-tomorrow, if everything seems okay, i will make insurance to go on the roads.

Restored Rotary

iTrader: (1)

Those AN lines really make it look clean!

Restored Rotary

iTrader: (1)

Oh ****. Still looked good though!

psyaddict

I really tried to post yesterday, but this amount of pictures freezes my other computer @ work and my phone even has difficulties.
Anyway a week of vacation helped me put together all the front plastics and deal with other problems.
No pictures right now but we got it running, still had the 1500rpm hesitation but at least it drove out and back in to the garage

Then we pulled out all the wires again, to find the problem, thought something messes with the lambda signal but that wasn't the case, finally on the evening of my last vacation day we found the problem, somehow it was only software problem, AGAIN, just when we first wanted to start it.
My friend put another map on the ecu, nothing, tried that many times, and then he put the map of the other rx7, and the problem was gone!
Even drove it around the block, not thinking about the consequences if i get busted.
All worked out well, so yesterday i got some virus somehow but today iäm okay and not at work, and i have insurance! It's safe to drive at this tune so i may drive some