4-Rotor FC Build
03-27-14, 03:30 AM
#1552
Rotary Enthusiast
I think it will be better to hook them up in series. and use some logic sense and some relay so they get charged in parralal during driving and switch to series during starting.
adding a batterey in parallel will not do much as the starter with 1.2 kW only draws slightly over 100A at 12v lets say with on battery you will see 10v during cranking and with 2 aroudn 11-11.3v which is only about 10% increase in starter power.
with 2 in series you will see around 20v during cranking which is about 100% increase
adding a batterey in parallel will not do much as the starter with 1.2 kW only draws slightly over 100A at 12v lets say with on battery you will see 10v during cranking and with 2 aroudn 11-11.3v which is only about 10% increase in starter power.
with 2 in series you will see around 20v during cranking which is about 100% increase
Lets see this wiring setup to get this to work.?
03-27-14, 03:56 AM
#1553
Exhaust Manifold Leak
Im really bad in drawing schematics that people exept from myself can understand. but basically you need a heavy relay with a NC and NO terminal. the common of this relay goes to the 2nd batteries - pole. the NO side goes to the 1st batteries + pole. the NC side goes to chassis ground. the + pole of the 2nd battery goes direcly to the M8 terminal on the starter relay.
to charge the second battery you use a NC relay that connects both + poles of the batteries.
the car (main fuse box, alternator) is just connected as in a normal car to the 1st battery + pole and the 1st batterys - pole is also like in a normal car fixed to the chassis ground.
both relays coils are connected in parrallel with the starters relay's coil to a start button or to the stock ignition-switch start wire.
so under al conditions exept while cranking the batteries are in parralel and thus also charged in parralel. when cranking the batteries are switched in series for the starter and the rest of the cars electrnics are just being fed as in a normal situation of the 1st batteries + pole.
to charge the second battery you use a NC relay that connects both + poles of the batteries.
the car (main fuse box, alternator) is just connected as in a normal car to the 1st battery + pole and the 1st batterys - pole is also like in a normal car fixed to the chassis ground.
both relays coils are connected in parrallel with the starters relay's coil to a start button or to the stock ignition-switch start wire.
so under al conditions exept while cranking the batteries are in parralel and thus also charged in parralel. when cranking the batteries are switched in series for the starter and the rest of the cars electrnics are just being fed as in a normal situation of the 1st batteries + pole.
03-27-14, 01:09 PM
#1554
You can buy a relay called a 'series parallel switch' (thats what we call them here anyway) that does exactly that in one unit, and ss thats what they are designed for they will handle starter current all day long, seen a few on old race cars that needed extra cranking speed!!
03-28-14, 12:58 AM
#1556
I'm using an auto starter with a ACT t2 flywheel and t2 trans/bell housing. It engages, spins, and disengages properly. The only external differences between them (auto vs. manual starter) that I have found are the length and the auto starter having an extra groove by it's gear to (presumably) not interfere with the torque converter.
03-28-14, 01:50 AM
#1557
I did a 24v mod to my rotary baja. It has an autostick starter which had plenty of torque, but was not fast. Rotaries want a fast starter but not necessarily a high torque starter. So I did basically what others here are saying. It has a Ford fender mounted starter solenoid (think 79 Mustang) to make and break the series connection. Figuring out the electronics to make it do what it needs to do, however, is the fun part.
Be sure to feed the starter's solenoid with 24v as well. If you try to get away with 12v, the starter may grind when it jumps out into the flywheel ring gear.
Be sure to feed the starter's solenoid with 24v as well. If you try to get away with 12v, the starter may grind when it jumps out into the flywheel ring gear.
03-28-14, 03:13 PM
#1558
Wasted spark plug
03-29-14, 12:59 PM
#1560
Haha, that comment made my day! :-)
Sure thing, here you go:
Both brackets are made from 3mm steel sheet. 3 of the original mounting points are used, and I added one by tig-welding a bolt onto the bracket which goes through the floor. A really big washer is used on the underside of the car to fix it.
Anyway, the car was looking angry today, probably because it's been a week since I worked on it:
So I went ahead and did this:
I installed the ecu, pulled all the wires and wired the engine up. I'll wrap everything up later to protect the wiring, but I want to make sure everything is wired up correctly and working before I do that. troubleshooting wrapped wiring harnesses is a b*tch
Sure thing, here you go:
Both brackets are made from 3mm steel sheet. 3 of the original mounting points are used, and I added one by tig-welding a bolt onto the bracket which goes through the floor. A really big washer is used on the underside of the car to fix it.
Anyway, the car was looking angry today, probably because it's been a week since I worked on it:
So I went ahead and did this:
I installed the ecu, pulled all the wires and wired the engine up. I'll wrap everything up later to protect the wiring, but I want to make sure everything is wired up correctly and working before I do that. troubleshooting wrapped wiring harnesses is a b*tch
03-29-14, 02:46 PM
#1561
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you could run an Rx8 starter too, the 2007-2008 starter is 2kw, with more teeth on the pinion, and the 09+ starter has even more teeth on the pinion.
one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
03-31-14, 12:23 AM
#1564
Exhaust Manifold Leak
you could run an Rx8 starter too, the 2007-2008 starter is 2kw, with more teeth on the pinion, and the 09+ starter has even more teeth on the pinion.
one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
04-01-14, 04:08 PM
#1566
you could run an Rx8 starter too, the 2007-2008 starter is 2kw, with more teeth on the pinion, and the 09+ starter has even more teeth on the pinion.
one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
Yeah that's too tight, especially since the fittings are so fragile. I couldn't find the exact size either, so I tried 3/4" (19mm) hose, and it seems to fit fine so that's what I used.
04-07-14, 12:51 AM
#1569
Some more progress:
It's coming together slowely but surely, I did some work on the catch can setup, added a big filter on the top of it, and made up an aluminium oil filler neck that also connects to the catch can. Also got the fuel pump, filters and most of the lines on, Elelectrics are also coming together, I started putting in fuses yesterday to check what works and what doesn't, and most of the stuff seems to work, but I couldn't seem to get a connection with the megasquirt, probably my crappy serial-usb converter or something. I pulled the ecu and will be checking it on the bench later today. Hopefully I can get it sorted, I got the oil cooler lines coming in later this week, so it shouldn't be too long before the engine can be fired up!
It's coming together slowely but surely, I did some work on the catch can setup, added a big filter on the top of it, and made up an aluminium oil filler neck that also connects to the catch can. Also got the fuel pump, filters and most of the lines on, Elelectrics are also coming together, I started putting in fuses yesterday to check what works and what doesn't, and most of the stuff seems to work, but I couldn't seem to get a connection with the megasquirt, probably my crappy serial-usb converter or something. I pulled the ecu and will be checking it on the bench later today. Hopefully I can get it sorted, I got the oil cooler lines coming in later this week, so it shouldn't be too long before the engine can be fired up!
04-10-14, 06:16 PM
#1572
Got the ecu figured out, it's up and running now!
Did some little things, the alternator was just touching the air filter so I had to trim it a little bit, and I made some mounts for the throttle cable, so the gas pedal actually works :-), also ran the huge 0 AWG cable to the starter, and it works, but I can't really tell how the starter does yet, because I don't want to crank it without oil in the system.
Speaking of oil, a buddy of mine made some oil cooler lines, and I can't thank him enough because he did an awesome job! Everything fits perfect, almost 7 metres of oil line in there!
I need to figure out how to fully fill the oil system up and pressurise it, because if I would start up the engine now it would be running without oil for a while because of the huge volume of oil in the system. I think I can rig something up using a big air cylinder though.
Did some little things, the alternator was just touching the air filter so I had to trim it a little bit, and I made some mounts for the throttle cable, so the gas pedal actually works :-), also ran the huge 0 AWG cable to the starter, and it works, but I can't really tell how the starter does yet, because I don't want to crank it without oil in the system.
Speaking of oil, a buddy of mine made some oil cooler lines, and I can't thank him enough because he did an awesome job! Everything fits perfect, almost 7 metres of oil line in there!
I need to figure out how to fully fill the oil system up and pressurise it, because if I would start up the engine now it would be running without oil for a while because of the huge volume of oil in the system. I think I can rig something up using a big air cylinder though.
