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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 10:07 AM
  #1551  
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2.0kW starter better cuz of double the amount of compression.
You still need revs.

Good job John!

Grtz Dee.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 03:30 AM
  #1552  
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Originally Posted by Rub20B
I think it will be better to hook them up in series. and use some logic sense and some relay so they get charged in parralal during driving and switch to series during starting.

adding a batterey in parallel will not do much as the starter with 1.2 kW only draws slightly over 100A at 12v lets say with on battery you will see 10v during cranking and with 2 aroudn 11-11.3v which is only about 10% increase in starter power.

with 2 in series you will see around 20v during cranking which is about 100% increase
Umm... ok...
Lets see this wiring setup to get this to work.?
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 03:56 AM
  #1553  
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Im really bad in drawing schematics that people exept from myself can understand. but basically you need a heavy relay with a NC and NO terminal. the common of this relay goes to the 2nd batteries - pole. the NO side goes to the 1st batteries + pole. the NC side goes to chassis ground. the + pole of the 2nd battery goes direcly to the M8 terminal on the starter relay.
to charge the second battery you use a NC relay that connects both + poles of the batteries.
the car (main fuse box, alternator) is just connected as in a normal car to the 1st battery + pole and the 1st batterys - pole is also like in a normal car fixed to the chassis ground.

both relays coils are connected in parrallel with the starters relay's coil to a start button or to the stock ignition-switch start wire.

so under al conditions exept while cranking the batteries are in parralel and thus also charged in parralel. when cranking the batteries are switched in series for the starter and the rest of the cars electrnics are just being fed as in a normal situation of the 1st batteries + pole.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 01:09 PM
  #1554  
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You can buy a relay called a 'series parallel switch' (thats what we call them here anyway) that does exactly that in one unit, and ss thats what they are designed for they will handle starter current all day long, seen a few on old race cars that needed extra cranking speed!!
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #1555  
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Originally Posted by Black and Blue RX
2.0kW starter better cuz of double the amount of compression.
You still need revs.

Good job John!

Grtz Dee.
Does that work on a turboII transmission or a non-turbo transmission?
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 12:58 AM
  #1556  
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Originally Posted by eage8
Does that work on a turboII transmission or a non-turbo transmission?
I'm using an auto starter with a ACT t2 flywheel and t2 trans/bell housing. It engages, spins, and disengages properly. The only external differences between them (auto vs. manual starter) that I have found are the length and the auto starter having an extra groove by it's gear to (presumably) not interfere with the torque converter.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 01:50 AM
  #1557  
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I did a 24v mod to my rotary baja. It has an autostick starter which had plenty of torque, but was not fast. Rotaries want a fast starter but not necessarily a high torque starter. So I did basically what others here are saying. It has a Ford fender mounted starter solenoid (think 79 Mustang) to make and break the series connection. Figuring out the electronics to make it do what it needs to do, however, is the fun part.

Be sure to feed the starter's solenoid with 24v as well. If you try to get away with 12v, the starter may grind when it jumps out into the flywheel ring gear.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #1558  
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Originally Posted by eage8
Does that work on a turboII transmission or a non-turbo transmission?
Besides Wankel engines are such a great invention, tools are so much overated.

Grtz Dee.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 04:12 PM
  #1559  
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Less telling Fab-Master what to do. More watching Fab-Master Fab.
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 12:59 PM
  #1560  
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Haha, that comment made my day! :-)

Originally Posted by GeenIdee
Do you got some pitures on how you made the passenger side seat rail?
Sure thing, here you go:
Both brackets are made from 3mm steel sheet. 3 of the original mounting points are used, and I added one by tig-welding a bolt onto the bracket which goes through the floor. A really big washer is used on the underside of the car to fix it.








Anyway, the car was looking angry today, probably because it's been a week since I worked on it:




So I went ahead and did this:






I installed the ecu, pulled all the wires and wired the engine up. I'll wrap everything up later to protect the wiring, but I want to make sure everything is wired up correctly and working before I do that. troubleshooting wrapped wiring harnesses is a b*tch
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #1561  
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you could run an Rx8 starter too, the 2007-2008 starter is 2kw, with more teeth on the pinion, and the 09+ starter has even more teeth on the pinion.

one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
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Old Mar 29, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #1562  
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John your build is coming along slowly but surely .wont be long before you fire up your beast
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #1563  
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Edit, nvm
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 12:23 AM
  #1564  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
you could run an Rx8 starter too, the 2007-2008 starter is 2kw, with more teeth on the pinion, and the 09+ starter has even more teeth on the pinion.

one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
Isnt the smount about 4mm shorter on the rx8 starter? We used a T2 starter in our renesis miata, and I had to make a 4mm spacer for the starter to fit the rx8 6-speed bellhousing as the spount was too long ..
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 11:44 AM
  #1565  
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What size heater hose did you use? I know the stock heater core is 17mm, but its almost impossible to find in the states. I bought -10AN push hose (5/8") and it's too snug to fit over the heater core lines.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 04:08 PM
  #1566  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
you could run an Rx8 starter too, the 2007-2008 starter is 2kw, with more teeth on the pinion, and the 09+ starter has even more teeth on the pinion.

one of the ears is different, but i recall there being room to drill a hole so it would fit a turbo trans. or actually the 2007-2008 starter would actually take the turbo snout, i was looking at starter bits, and the 04-06 starters basically ARE T2 starters
Interesting, My 04 RX-8 has the uprated starter, I think it's also 2kW. I still managed to flood the engine once though.


Originally Posted by Shainiac
What size heater hose did you use? I know the stock heater core is 17mm, but its almost impossible to find in the states. I bought -10AN push hose (5/8") and it's too snug to fit over the heater core lines.
Yeah that's too tight, especially since the fittings are so fragile. I couldn't find the exact size either, so I tried 3/4" (19mm) hose, and it seems to fit fine so that's what I used.
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 12:14 AM
  #1567  
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If there's such a thing as 11/16 hose, or -11 push on, you'd be golden.
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #1568  
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For 5/8 put the end of the hose in boiling water then try it. Liquid cooling for computers sometimes needs this trick.
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 12:51 AM
  #1569  
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Some more progress:



It's coming together slowely but surely, I did some work on the catch can setup, added a big filter on the top of it, and made up an aluminium oil filler neck that also connects to the catch can. Also got the fuel pump, filters and most of the lines on, Elelectrics are also coming together, I started putting in fuses yesterday to check what works and what doesn't, and most of the stuff seems to work, but I couldn't seem to get a connection with the megasquirt, probably my crappy serial-usb converter or something. I pulled the ecu and will be checking it on the bench later today. Hopefully I can get it sorted, I got the oil cooler lines coming in later this week, so it shouldn't be too long before the engine can be fired up!
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 11:37 AM
  #1570  
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Car is really coming together well. I've taken a lot of inspiration from your build for mine, really enjoying watching this come together. I hope it performs to your expectations.
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #1571  
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really nice work mate keep the pictures coming
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #1572  
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Got the ecu figured out, it's up and running now!




Did some little things, the alternator was just touching the air filter so I had to trim it a little bit, and I made some mounts for the throttle cable, so the gas pedal actually works :-), also ran the huge 0 AWG cable to the starter, and it works, but I can't really tell how the starter does yet, because I don't want to crank it without oil in the system.
Speaking of oil, a buddy of mine made some oil cooler lines, and I can't thank him enough because he did an awesome job! Everything fits perfect, almost 7 metres of oil line in there!





I need to figure out how to fully fill the oil system up and pressurise it, because if I would start up the engine now it would be running without oil for a while because of the huge volume of oil in the system. I think I can rig something up using a big air cylinder though.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:23 PM
  #1573  
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very cool
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:37 PM
  #1574  
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What is wrong with gravity filling the lines?
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 12:14 AM
  #1575  
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Vacuum it up and then fpull to oil thru the lines

btw wich megasquirt is that?
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