Take off every part. Clean every part.

Thank you, evapo-rust. This liquid is magical. Dunk parts for a day, and they are rust free. Using it on fasteners and small parts.





I am only doing one "throttle body mod", and that is plugging the vacuum leak that is built into this gasket. I used RTV in the gasket slit, and then in the void in the casting. Allegedly the leak can hiss furiously at higher boost.

 

Think about the future, and then start replacing every vacuum line with silicone.



Run out of 10' of hose, after only doing half the motor. Order new hose, and find other things to do.



Odd Jobs:

Drill, tap 1/8 NPT, and relocate the temperature sensor.



Mount the water/meth nozzle aiming straight down the throttle body.



Cover some nice Sakebomb/MSD plug wires in split loom, like the Mazda factory did (can't have blue boots, but close enough).



POR-15 the steel LRB Speed Master Cylinder Brace.

 

I've been shopping for a catch can. Why so expensive?

Hello, VacMotion website.

https://www.vacmotion.com/Details.as...ilters&Id=2832

Hey, that looks like a catch can. You can even specify your fittings, bowl color, mesh size, and gasket material. $16.79 shipped.

Get your catch cans, folks.

-----------------

In build news, turbo and heat shields are off. Most everything is cleaned up,

Almost ready to start re-assembling this beaut.

 

I was going to use these OMP lines.



NO. WHAT? Who thought of this material? This added an unwanted task.



Thanks to the excellent instructions of Racer X-8, I bought new teflon line for decently cheap. On top, I added 1/4" thermal sleeve (Heatshield Products 204013), which is VERY similar to the factory material. Added some shrink wrap on the ends, but two of the ends came a bit loose during installation, so I suggest clamps for the truly obsessive.



And to fix up the copper washers, I annealed them with a torch (heat till cherry and let cool). This technique works great.



There they be. Pretty good.

 

:o nice

 

New Teflon/Kevlar fuel lines from Pegasus Racing, for a remote mount FPR.



This exotic material looks cheap and dingy, so I covered it with high temp sleeve. This will also be over the exhaust, so I might cook my return fuel a bit less.



The factory FPR comes off, replaced by a metric-to-AN adapter, and then a 90 swivel. The return line is a factory length of rubber line with a barb to AN adapter. "Fire sleeve" goes on all the rubber lines.





The fuel delivery is all settled. Injector Dynamics 725cc and 1000cc injectors, with stock routing and refreshed lines.



Alright it's turbo time.



This is my BNR stage 1/frankenstein that Bryan put together for me:
-T04E 50 trim compressor (great compressor map for the rotary)
-TA34 turbine
-Turbonetics dual port actuator (30326)

The TA34 wheel has a bit more tip clearance with the exhaust housing than stock. Probably sub-optimal, but adequate, and should flow well at the top end.

 

Though this is "Stage 1" bolt-it-up-and-drive-into-the-sunset external specifications, fitment was... well I've seen better. I bent the oil/coolant lines into place, and afterwards, find interference with the LIM, the airpump, and probably the PCV line too. The charge pipe alignment is fine, but the mockup here shows me how much I want to move it "outward".



Taking matters into my own hands. Relocate the boost line to the side.





Clock turbo nozzle outward a degree or three. Must re-align the actuator rod a bit. Works freely in a bench test.



And grind a shitload off the ear that hits the LIM.



New gasket.

 

Getting it back in.



Heat shields on. Only a little scratching. They are kind of a bitch to get on.







Money

 

Looking great. Very clean nice work.

 

Guys, what is this tube? Was something connected to it?

 

I believe that's the ac evap drain

 

Thanks! It was just sitting there, staring at me, with no lines around to connect to it.

 

I'm surprised you kept the water running from the LIM. I can never get that to seal right...ever

 

We'll see if it do. It has a new gasket on it, at least.

----------------------------------

More boxes. This one took longer, since I broke off a tap in the aluminum case and had to build a new one. However, the second revision is pretty solid.

It's a relayed fuse box for all the auxiliary circuits, except the fuel pump, which gets a dedicated circuit. I'm using more of my high-amp RC connectors.



This mounts to the stock sub-zero assist/cruise control bracket. I also goofed up the paint on it, so it went to Bean's Best to get powercoated.





Getting it in.



The measuring has paid off.







Car is getting almost done

 

You are doing some beautiful work. I look forward to seeing where all you take this.

 

Since that BNR turbo is forwarder than stock, my rare Corksport Turbo-Inlet-Duct will never fit.

I hacksawed it in half, keeping the initial 3" section with the fittings.

TID, You shall be reborn.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I made a ... Not sure what you call this. Wire thing to locate the turbo inlet.



3" hole saw, 3" pipe, some screws, lots of holding things up to other things...



DONE.



I AM THE JIG MASTER.

 

Wi-Fi?

 

Alright, sorry for the forever, but...

Watson Racing finished my 3" TID, using the Corksport TID as a starting point.

TID is so good.



It fits in an almost-stock manner. I had to cut off the steel bracket that holds that dumb little airpump muffler thingy, and I had to move the shock tower wiring harness rearward by flipping its mount 180 degrees. Now we have a nice 3" path for air.



It is assembled.





Tomorrow.

 

So nice , can't wait to see the finished result

 

Started easily on the first try. I am still tuning the car, but things are going well.

She looks pretty much the same as before I started. Sounds a little louder, with some nice turbo whistle on spool up.















Wastegate boost is about 7 PSI, and we are super rich all over the map.

Before I raise boost, there will be a journey of tuning.

 

My tuning strategy so far is:

-Use arghx's conservative timing maps, out of the box: New boost-based timing maps - RX7Club.com
-Make street pulls and compare my logged AFR with the RTEK boost index and fuel index. Make adjustments to that cell and the surrounding region.

I made a little spreadsheet (attached) to pen in the recorded AFRs in the associated fuel map cell. I'm assuming the new self-learning ECUs will do this tedious task for me.

To clarify, this is for the 333 ECU (and 332 I think) with RTEK 2.1 modifications.

 

Idle was 650 (not 750), possibly because of the throttle body passage I sealed up. TPS was dead nuts 20% at idle. Adjusting the BAC screw did absolutely nothing to idle speed. I resorted to adjusting the "idle stop" screw on the throttle body, and that brought it back up to 750. Very nice.

Not my photo, but this is the screw:

 

That bay is so mint brotha nice job .and thanks for the link to those timing maps . I'm trying to tune my 6 port with hx52 turbo and have added a couple degrees through out the Rpms and helped a lot . So I'm going to look them over

 

wow man, that car makes me jealous. looks new! and i really dig the RB strutbar

 

Nice piping