[AUS] Kustoms FC3S
#51
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**** this pos.
Got rego on cressy today. Thank **** cause rx7 is a pos.
Changed spark plugs & coilpacks on 7.
So this problem started randomly before I installed gauges/or anything to it, when I put it in the garage and was waiting on coilpacks was when I installed those which means its nothing I can go back too and find whatever I did wrong so any help to this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Car is stalling after I turn it on, SOMETIMES i can keep it running by tapping/keeping accelerator on but it eventually dies.. Before I put it into the garage it was missing at 3.5k-4k which made me believe it was coilpacks cause my RX8 did the same when one failed. Anyway... I thought it was a vac line but they are now all connected and none seem to be leaking.
I'm completely stumped for what it is. Any help i'd love you long time.
Stef.
Got rego on cressy today. Thank **** cause rx7 is a pos.
Changed spark plugs & coilpacks on 7.
So this problem started randomly before I installed gauges/or anything to it, when I put it in the garage and was waiting on coilpacks was when I installed those which means its nothing I can go back too and find whatever I did wrong so any help to this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Car is stalling after I turn it on, SOMETIMES i can keep it running by tapping/keeping accelerator on but it eventually dies.. Before I put it into the garage it was missing at 3.5k-4k which made me believe it was coilpacks cause my RX8 did the same when one failed. Anyway... I thought it was a vac line but they are now all connected and none seem to be leaking.
I'm completely stumped for what it is. Any help i'd love you long time.
Stef.
#54
onrxtc
Nice FC by the way!!
I had the exact same symptoms you were describing a few months ago. After dicking around with this and that, ignition especially, I pulled the fuel pump and bam... The tank was rusting and the gunk was clogging the fuel pump sock. It was that bad that it felt as if I was sticking my hand in beach sand, scooping out a hand full of **** each time.
Anyways, I dropped the tank and repaired it, flushed all the fuel lines and installed a 10 micron Aeromotive filter. The rust being that bad, I feared that it would've clogged up the injectors so I get got the mobile injector guy to rock and clean them. Turned out my 850ccs were flowing like 220s while the 1600s were flowing less than half of its flow rate.
Once assembled, ran smoother than ever. Anyways, pull your pump.
Cheers
Grant
I had the exact same symptoms you were describing a few months ago. After dicking around with this and that, ignition especially, I pulled the fuel pump and bam... The tank was rusting and the gunk was clogging the fuel pump sock. It was that bad that it felt as if I was sticking my hand in beach sand, scooping out a hand full of **** each time.
Anyways, I dropped the tank and repaired it, flushed all the fuel lines and installed a 10 micron Aeromotive filter. The rust being that bad, I feared that it would've clogged up the injectors so I get got the mobile injector guy to rock and clean them. Turned out my 850ccs were flowing like 220s while the 1600s were flowing less than half of its flow rate.
Once assembled, ran smoother than ever. Anyways, pull your pump.
Cheers
Grant
#55
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Nice FC by the way!!
I had the exact same symptoms you were describing a few months ago. After dicking around with this and that, ignition especially, I pulled the fuel pump and bam... The tank was rusting and the gunk was clogging the fuel pump sock. It was that bad that it felt as if I was sticking my hand in beach sand, scooping out a hand full of **** each time.
Anyways, I dropped the tank and repaired it, flushed all the fuel lines and installed a 10 micron Aeromotive filter. The rust being that bad, I feared that it would've clogged up the injectors so I get got the mobile injector guy to rock and clean them. Turned out my 850ccs were flowing like 220s while the 1600s were flowing less than half of its flow rate.
Once assembled, ran smoother than ever. Anyways, pull your pump.
Cheers
Grant
I had the exact same symptoms you were describing a few months ago. After dicking around with this and that, ignition especially, I pulled the fuel pump and bam... The tank was rusting and the gunk was clogging the fuel pump sock. It was that bad that it felt as if I was sticking my hand in beach sand, scooping out a hand full of **** each time.
Anyways, I dropped the tank and repaired it, flushed all the fuel lines and installed a 10 micron Aeromotive filter. The rust being that bad, I feared that it would've clogged up the injectors so I get got the mobile injector guy to rock and clean them. Turned out my 850ccs were flowing like 220s while the 1600s were flowing less than half of its flow rate.
Once assembled, ran smoother than ever. Anyways, pull your pump.
Cheers
Grant
Sweet, good to hear man.
I've got an external bosch 044 pump, with a surgetank as well. I might get a mobile injector guy out though! Good idea!
#59
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Been super duper lazy lately and motivation dropped to lowest ever.
Anyway, a lot of thought has been going through my mind lately bout the car, I've 3 main options in my head they are (with rough cost estimates):
- Get a retune up to 1bar boost on current setup.... Only thing stopping me from doing it without worry is the previous owner had it tuned at 1bar and down tuned it to 5psi because the "boost controller was too tempting"... makes me worry but will most likely happen.
*Retune 300-700$
*new exhaust 1000$
- Take out 13bt/gearbox/ecu - sell it and do 1jz setup.
*Buy 1jz engine/gb $2500-3500
*1jz Mounting brackets/Tailshaft/shifter extension etc etc - $3000 delivered
*Haltech ecu and dash setup $3500+
-Pull current 13bt out and do bridgey/extend port with lumpy idle
Havn't quite got a chance to talk to ben about this but would be cheaper to do it before she pops rather than later. I would guess around $5000-7000.
With option 2 or 3 the following would happen while engine is out:
*Wire tuck engine bay $300
*Shave engine bay $150
*Paint engine Bay $300-500
Clean the ****** up.
So thats where i'm at. Car is currently running again, the issue earlier was just a fully blocked injector AND fuel filter. SO simple yet caused so much grief haha.
Thanks to everyone who helped out or gave advice.
Any inputs into whats going through my head would be greatly appreciated, what I want is 300-400hp at my fingertips to drive when I want. (Mainly just weekends). Might be learning how to drift soon.
-DTSS Eliminators ordered and i'm looking at ordering a Knightsports wing for her shortly a long with rear pods... should happen within couple of weeks.
Also wanting to change from microtech to haltech so I can run a dash but its soooo much money just for the dash.
Cheers guys,
Stef.
Anyway, a lot of thought has been going through my mind lately bout the car, I've 3 main options in my head they are (with rough cost estimates):
- Get a retune up to 1bar boost on current setup.... Only thing stopping me from doing it without worry is the previous owner had it tuned at 1bar and down tuned it to 5psi because the "boost controller was too tempting"... makes me worry but will most likely happen.
*Retune 300-700$
*new exhaust 1000$
- Take out 13bt/gearbox/ecu - sell it and do 1jz setup.
*Buy 1jz engine/gb $2500-3500
*1jz Mounting brackets/Tailshaft/shifter extension etc etc - $3000 delivered
*Haltech ecu and dash setup $3500+
-Pull current 13bt out and do bridgey/extend port with lumpy idle
Havn't quite got a chance to talk to ben about this but would be cheaper to do it before she pops rather than later. I would guess around $5000-7000.
With option 2 or 3 the following would happen while engine is out:
*Wire tuck engine bay $300
*Shave engine bay $150
*Paint engine Bay $300-500
Clean the ****** up.
So thats where i'm at. Car is currently running again, the issue earlier was just a fully blocked injector AND fuel filter. SO simple yet caused so much grief haha.
Thanks to everyone who helped out or gave advice.
Any inputs into whats going through my head would be greatly appreciated, what I want is 300-400hp at my fingertips to drive when I want. (Mainly just weekends). Might be learning how to drift soon.
-DTSS Eliminators ordered and i'm looking at ordering a Knightsports wing for her shortly a long with rear pods... should happen within couple of weeks.
Also wanting to change from microtech to haltech so I can run a dash but its soooo much money just for the dash.
Cheers guys,
Stef.
#60
onrxtc
Glad to hear your 7 is back on the road again. Man I tell you, those fuel issues are a pain in the ****.
Anyways leave the Microtech in - You can always rock the Microtech dash or hand controller if you don't already have one.
Don't waste your time with a 14 ish psi tune - Ben from RMS and Mazfix will only do 14-16 PSI max. You'll probably end up being disappointed. Spend some money on a good water injection kit and take your car to Matt at PITS (Gold Coast). He'll do a 20 PSI (assuming max MAP sensor for your Microtech) tune. Ask for a matrix mode tune as well, which will help highway economy etc.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Grant
Anyways leave the Microtech in - You can always rock the Microtech dash or hand controller if you don't already have one.
Don't waste your time with a 14 ish psi tune - Ben from RMS and Mazfix will only do 14-16 PSI max. You'll probably end up being disappointed. Spend some money on a good water injection kit and take your car to Matt at PITS (Gold Coast). He'll do a 20 PSI (assuming max MAP sensor for your Microtech) tune. Ask for a matrix mode tune as well, which will help highway economy etc.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Grant
#61
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Glad to hear your 7 is back on the road again. Man I tell you, those fuel issues are a pain in the ****.
Anyways leave the Microtech in - You can always rock the Microtech dash or hand controller if you don't already have one.
Don't waste your time with a 14 ish psi tune - Ben from RMS and Mazfix will only do 14-16 PSI max. You'll probably end up being disappointed. Spend some money on a good water injection kit and take your car to Matt at PITS (Gold Coast). He'll do a 20 PSI (assuming max MAP sensor for your Microtech) tune. Ask for a matrix mode tune as well, which will help highway economy etc.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Grant
Anyways leave the Microtech in - You can always rock the Microtech dash or hand controller if you don't already have one.
Don't waste your time with a 14 ish psi tune - Ben from RMS and Mazfix will only do 14-16 PSI max. You'll probably end up being disappointed. Spend some money on a good water injection kit and take your car to Matt at PITS (Gold Coast). He'll do a 20 PSI (assuming max MAP sensor for your Microtech) tune. Ask for a matrix mode tune as well, which will help highway economy etc.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Grant
I'm only looking to go for 1bar boost as i'm not looking for ridiculous power. But even saying that, 1 bar boost through a t04z should put me in the 300hp range anyway. I am running a microtech LT-10s, with a map sensor.
Just curious, does matt (PITS) do mechanical work as well or are they just a tuner?
Cheers,
Stef
#62
onrxtc
Yeah you're right, Matt only does tuning.
I'm running a slightly smaller size turbo as the T04z (Master Power t-64) and dyno'd 330 ish at 14psi.. tuned by Ben at RMS some time ago.. It feel great but you get used to the power and it becomes boring again.. 14psi for a T04z is just too low..
I'm running a slightly smaller size turbo as the T04z (Master Power t-64) and dyno'd 330 ish at 14psi.. tuned by Ben at RMS some time ago.. It feel great but you get used to the power and it becomes boring again.. 14psi for a T04z is just too low..
#63
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Yeah you're right, Matt only does tuning.
I'm running a slightly smaller size turbo as the T04z (Master Power t-64) and dyno'd 330 ish at 14psi.. tuned by Ben at RMS some time ago.. It feel great but you get used to the power and it becomes boring again.. 14psi for a T04z is just too low..
I'm running a slightly smaller size turbo as the T04z (Master Power t-64) and dyno'd 330 ish at 14psi.. tuned by Ben at RMS some time ago.. It feel great but you get used to the power and it becomes boring again.. 14psi for a T04z is just too low..
copy update from other forum..
Did some research, this is actually the RE AMEMIYA type II wing for the fc3s, because kouki wing doesn't have that much kick up in the rear. Which looks awesome & is half the price of the Knightsports! SO thanks for yourself and charles for bringing that to my attention!
Anyway, wing and pods getting ordered next week,
Week after i'm ordering an Abercrombie Motorsports full 72 degrees angle kit, which includes knuckles, extended ball joints, rack spacers and longer outer tierods.
When I get back from townsville getting booked in for exhaust and tune! Keen!
Cheers,
Stef.
#65
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Hey man, awesome worklog!
What kind of front bumper canards are those in your pics on the first page?
Also what shift **** is that with the red stitching?
What kind of front bumper canards are those in your pics on the first page?
Also what shift **** is that with the red stitching?
#66
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Pretty keen to continue working on the car !
#71
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Thanks boys for the replies, fly back this Arvo so if my knuckle kit is here I'll start the install this weekend. So keen for skids! Will let you know how I go
#72
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Finally home!
DTSS Eliminators have arrived, but came home to find an e-mail from abercrombie motorsports (people making knuckles/lock kit) to only find theres a month wait before production starts. Which sucks but thats life. They'll come eventually.
Recently i've been tossing up for ages what wing I want to go. Got real close to purchasing a drag/drift wing. But am going to hold out for a little while first. Car is booked for wednesday but going to try to drop it down on monday as i'm busy wednesday anyway. Gonna get a few price ups while i'm there including.
- Weld in cage
- Bridgey rebuild
- Extend port (with a lumpy idle) rebuild.
I'm going need to pull engine out within due time anyway cause i'm going to need to tub my bay for the lock i'm going to have. Going to shave all holes, delete a lot of ****, get some ducting going, tuck looms while i'm at it.
DTSS Eliminators have arrived, but came home to find an e-mail from abercrombie motorsports (people making knuckles/lock kit) to only find theres a month wait before production starts. Which sucks but thats life. They'll come eventually.
Recently i've been tossing up for ages what wing I want to go. Got real close to purchasing a drag/drift wing. But am going to hold out for a little while first. Car is booked for wednesday but going to try to drop it down on monday as i'm busy wednesday anyway. Gonna get a few price ups while i'm there including.
- Weld in cage
- Bridgey rebuild
- Extend port (with a lumpy idle) rebuild.
I'm going need to pull engine out within due time anyway cause i'm going to need to tub my bay for the lock i'm going to have. Going to shave all holes, delete a lot of ****, get some ducting going, tuck looms while i'm at it.