Unvieling: 12a-BP Widebody
09-12-05, 04:43 PM
#28
I'll see if I can answer all of the questions in one post.
The mods on the car are mostly old school, but many members have not seen them in a package like this. Thus the anti-rice comment.
The kit is a little too wide. I believe there was also a slightly narrower kit that was made once upon a time.
I will be staying with the matte black for now, it has that stealth look. I have increased business in town for the bone crackers, from all the little rice kids snapping thier necks, saying wtf was that when I go by in the night.
The car is low as it is. I already need to repair the air dam, and that's just from getting in and out of the driveway. Trust me, it is low. I do have a set of 13x7 revolution wheels and they look just plain silly on a stock car, let alone this one. There isn't a curb in town that the front will go over and speed bumps will be a problem with scraping.
No hood vents, but I will need to put a tow hook in front. I had to cut the oe ones off to mount the air dam. The front glass will need to come of just to get the car on a flat bed tow truck, and that is the only way it could be towed commecially. I don't think I could get it on a trailer.
Front plate is required here. I have already been followed by the popo. I don't need to give them another excuse to pull me over.
Strut bar is from Rotary Engineering, no longer in business. It has a nice clean utilitarian look to it.
The carb will take some tuning. The 44 is supposedly too small for a bp, yet the afr lamda on the pilot cicuit is running between .85 and .9. If that confuses anyone: lamda=1.0=stoich=14.7 afr's. After I get the motor broken in, I will find out what the afr's for the main cicuit is running, as it is now, it is rich.
As far as handling, I had it out last night on some remote 2 lane asphalt hiways and it seemed heavier. I finally realised this afternoon that it isn't that much heavier, it leans more with the bigger tires, due to the higher grip. The stock size tires used to break traction much earlier and the car couldn't get to the point where it would lean, I need to play with tire pressures and shock/strut settings.
Here are some close up pics of the wheels, sorry the second one is fuzzy. I don't have a lot of room in the shop. The centers are powdercoated in a charcoal metalic. I would have prefered a black pearl, but couldn't find it.
The mods on the car are mostly old school, but many members have not seen them in a package like this. Thus the anti-rice comment.
The kit is a little too wide. I believe there was also a slightly narrower kit that was made once upon a time.
I will be staying with the matte black for now, it has that stealth look. I have increased business in town for the bone crackers, from all the little rice kids snapping thier necks, saying wtf was that when I go by in the night.
The car is low as it is. I already need to repair the air dam, and that's just from getting in and out of the driveway. Trust me, it is low. I do have a set of 13x7 revolution wheels and they look just plain silly on a stock car, let alone this one. There isn't a curb in town that the front will go over and speed bumps will be a problem with scraping.
No hood vents, but I will need to put a tow hook in front. I had to cut the oe ones off to mount the air dam. The front glass will need to come of just to get the car on a flat bed tow truck, and that is the only way it could be towed commecially. I don't think I could get it on a trailer.
Front plate is required here. I have already been followed by the popo. I don't need to give them another excuse to pull me over.
Strut bar is from Rotary Engineering, no longer in business. It has a nice clean utilitarian look to it.
The carb will take some tuning. The 44 is supposedly too small for a bp, yet the afr lamda on the pilot cicuit is running between .85 and .9. If that confuses anyone: lamda=1.0=stoich=14.7 afr's. After I get the motor broken in, I will find out what the afr's for the main cicuit is running, as it is now, it is rich.
As far as handling, I had it out last night on some remote 2 lane asphalt hiways and it seemed heavier. I finally realised this afternoon that it isn't that much heavier, it leans more with the bigger tires, due to the higher grip. The stock size tires used to break traction much earlier and the car couldn't get to the point where it would lean, I need to play with tire pressures and shock/strut settings.
Here are some close up pics of the wheels, sorry the second one is fuzzy. I don't have a lot of room in the shop. The centers are powdercoated in a charcoal metalic. I would have prefered a black pearl, but couldn't find it.
09-12-05, 08:11 PM
#31
That's Weak Sause
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Great looking ride. Kinda reminds me of Mad Max with the color and all.
It is a little wide in front, but not too out of place; I love the look from the drivers rear, rear, and both front corner shots, never would know its an FB unless a person knew what they were looking at.
Again I love the sattin black look.
=Eric
It is a little wide in front, but not too out of place; I love the look from the drivers rear, rear, and both front corner shots, never would know its an FB unless a person knew what they were looking at.
Again I love the sattin black look.
=Eric
09-12-05, 10:49 PM
#33
How About A Cup Of STFU
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Fantastic !
FWIW, I have a little tip for you on the speed bumps and such that has helped me tremendously ( besides going at and over everything at an angle ... lol ): Get some of the sticky backed side moulding that comes in rolls ( and most are black ). Put it on the bottom of your fron bumper/airdam. When/if you do make contact, the ABS or nylon or whatever it is takes the brunt like a champ instead of your fiberglass and paint. You can't see it at all, but it really sacrifices for you.
FWIW, I have a little tip for you on the speed bumps and such that has helped me tremendously ( besides going at and over everything at an angle ... lol ): Get some of the sticky backed side moulding that comes in rolls ( and most are black ). Put it on the bottom of your fron bumper/airdam. When/if you do make contact, the ABS or nylon or whatever it is takes the brunt like a champ instead of your fiberglass and paint. You can't see it at all, but it really sacrifices for you.
09-12-05, 11:07 PM
#34
The paint is a single stage polyurethane with a flattener added to it. I wanted it flatter, but that was as much as the paint store could add.
David, intersting idea for protecting the air dam. My biggest problem is my driveway. I need to lower the sidewalk and apron. I caught the front on an edge of the sidewalk that sticks up, about 3/8", twice in the same night. I finally found a way to get in and out with out catching, but I have a bit of repair to do on the left front fender.
What suprises me is that the exhaust clears the drive, it doesn't on my 2nd gen.
David, intersting idea for protecting the air dam. My biggest problem is my driveway. I need to lower the sidewalk and apron. I caught the front on an edge of the sidewalk that sticks up, about 3/8", twice in the same night. I finally found a way to get in and out with out catching, but I have a bit of repair to do on the left front fender.
What suprises me is that the exhaust clears the drive, it doesn't on my 2nd gen.
09-13-05, 04:44 PM
#36
Originally Posted by DAVID GRIMES
I like the flat black. I have considered doing the hood and Mariah hatch on my white widebody, but I'm afraid it'll look like a police car.
It's about time we got to chase them, for a change.
09-13-05, 07:01 PM
#37
Just to give an idea of how extensive this restoration was, here are a couple of shots of the under carriage and wheel well, after sandblasting and epoxy, taped and masked off ready for the truck bed liner under coat.
The narrow bands of white are seam sealer, wider ones are the brake cables taped off. What looks like sticks are Q-tips stuck in all of the bolt holes so I wouldn't have to clean them out later.
Note the circular ribbon of seam sealer in the wheel well. This is one of the places that moisture gets in and starts rusting out the wheel wells. I highly reccomend checking yours for any breaching. The factory undercoat usually cracks at this joint and the rust soon follows.
The narrow bands of white are seam sealer, wider ones are the brake cables taped off. What looks like sticks are Q-tips stuck in all of the bolt holes so I wouldn't have to clean them out later.
Note the circular ribbon of seam sealer in the wheel well. This is one of the places that moisture gets in and starts rusting out the wheel wells. I highly reccomend checking yours for any breaching. The factory undercoat usually cracks at this joint and the rust soon follows.
09-15-05, 03:19 PM
#39
I went with the matte black for a couple or reasons, The first being, I couldn't decide what color I wanted for the final paint. This will make a good base for a dark color later. The second is the glass work and my driveway. My drive is a pita to get in and out. my 2nd gen scrapes, just being lowered, without extra body add-ons, and I have already cracked the dam and left front fender on the widebody. The mattte black paint is easy to blend for repairs.
Wider wheels, definitely. The kit ended up being wider than I thought it would be for the wheels, which is the reason I put the kit on to begin with. 17" rims, probably not. I would need to run a 30 aspect ratio on those and my back hates me as it is now.
Wider wheels, definitely. The kit ended up being wider than I thought it would be for the wheels, which is the reason I put the kit on to begin with. 17" rims, probably not. I would need to run a 30 aspect ratio on those and my back hates me as it is now.
)
09-16-05, 09:08 AM
#44
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Originally Posted by Lee Lyons
nice car but i think and this is just my personal opinion you need a shiny paint job...and a set of 17*10 (front) and 17*12 (rear) CCW's
Exactly
Looks good though, I love the roll cage.
Last edited by luiml73; 09-16-05 at 09:22 AM.
09-16-05, 05:28 PM
#46
Luiml73,
I do like the way your wheels fill out the wells. Very good fitment choice. I like the old school Epsilons, I just need some wider ones.
Nice clean job on your car. We need more widebodies out there, and a larger selection of wheels.
My 3 piece Epsilons were cast in 85, and cost 1200 apiece, or so I've been told on the price by the po.
There have been very few decent replacements since then.
I do like the way your wheels fill out the wells. Very good fitment choice. I like the old school Epsilons, I just need some wider ones.
Nice clean job on your car. We need more widebodies out there, and a larger selection of wheels.
My 3 piece Epsilons were cast in 85, and cost 1200 apiece, or so I've been told on the price by the po.
There have been very few decent replacements since then.
09-18-05, 12:35 AM
#48
Originally Posted by kuhlrx7
kodiak will make some wider half shells for your epsilons. how wide are yours?
I have not heard of Kodiak, more info on that would be great. It might be cheaper to have a wider set of outers made and move the rears to the front.
It's almost scary how well the tires hold in the corners now. With even wider wheels and stickier tires, I think I would need a racing seat and a 4 or 5 point harness.
09-19-05, 03:06 PM
#50
Originally Posted by d0 Luck
very nice work on the 7! very inspiring
you mention how the body kit's fiberglass, is it actually heavier in comparison w/ the factory steel/metal fenders??
you mention how the body kit's fiberglass, is it actually heavier in comparison w/ the factory steel/metal fenders??
All in all. it may add 15-30 lbs to the body. I never did weigh the wing. Most of what is added is at the rear. I don't see that as a bad thing.