Lows. Its a steel 1/2" floor plate (that's what the bag read). I don't know what it is for but it works great. That AN compression fitting just thread right into it.

I found it on the wall with all of the steel pipes for running natural gas and whatnot.

 

It runs.

First lick. Maybe half a turn of the starter and brooooooom. That's a lesson for myself. DON'T REUSE APEX SEALS!!! I can't do it; no way no how.


On a side note that Comp 140 is the loudest fuel pump in existence. Sounds like I have a 12VDC drill running in my hatch. Not very cool, but when the engine fired up I couldn't hear it over my rusty exhaust. We'll have to wait till I build the turbo exhaust to see if its still a problem. I might just have to live with it.


The fuel pressure is A OK. I can drop it down to less than a pound. I was hesitant to unscrew the adjustment *** anymore cause I was afraid it would come out, but I can regulate from 1-14 PSI of pressure. I set it for the edelbrock at 4.5, but when Nikki time comes 2.5 is doable.


SOOOO Next step is direct fire. I might give the engine a few tanks of fuel then give it a shot.

 

You could start playing with direct fire tomorrow!

 

Excellent news, congratulations!!

I hope that one day I'll be able to make the same kind of post...

 

Yeah I had an engine like that in the GLC. Half a crank and it started. I couldn't believe it. And yep new apex seals.

 

That's a good point.

Really, I don't NEED a car. I ride a bicycle to work.


Ah man, after a year of fighting with low compression; I'd forgotten how a rotary is supposed to work.

 

Hey, haven't seen your thread in a while. How's it coming? Sourced all your engine parts yet?

 

Hey Qingdao! No updates for my thread. Work has been crazy and my weekends have been consumed with family commitments so no time for the barn find, except odds and ends here and there.

I've been lurking on the boards when I can, watching other people's threads, like yours, and admiring the progress. Can't wait to see the final product, and your 79!

 

Alright, fixed the leaking issues. Coolant from the heater core hose, and fuel from the barb fittings on the Comp140. THEN I went for a spin around the block.

The Idle circuits on the old eldelbrock are all kinds of gunked up, but no worries I'll run it out. Maybe I'll throw a can of Seafoam at it.

Now for my next day off I'll go direct fire. The next day off is this Saturday. Eeee I'm so excited.



My REAL question is after direct fire should I fix the A/C or should I go Nikki? I'm leaning on A/C because summer is upon us.

 

Wooooo WHOOOO!!!!

I shed my N/A coil.

Now I can finally attach that "turbo" emblem I picked off a car in the junkyard.



Nikki is DONE (at least up to page 4 or 5 on the thread). I figure after page 4 its mostly particular tuning that could change from engine to engine... etc.


AND I just got back from Lows where I got some stuff to channel that turbo into a Nikki.



I am happy I have enough space for another spacer so I can put a heat shield between the turbo and the carb. I am UN-happy about the loss of the flapper thing on the exhaust manifold that closes off half the turbo while under vacuum, but whatever.

 

My carb hat "solution"

I don't yet know if it will fit under the hood, but I think it might. If it doesn't it only cost $15. No welding required.

I'll weld exhausts, but I don't think I'm good enough to weld intakes, and if I can get around it I will.




On a side note. I loved the expression on the face of the guy at the exhaust parts store when he saw my exhaust pipes*. "Damn that's some thick piping; what's it fer?"

*I needed an adapter for my downpipe.

Yes he said "fer"

 

Are talking about my how too thread? Yeah it kind of wandered off into speculationville. But there is some new data toward the end that I discovered recently. Things like making the secondary main air bleeds small, but not too small, and not blocking off the short slows but rather after you fill the brass primary 170s with solder, drill them out to .35mm or smaller, then install in the secondary side. You need a tiny bit of air to break the siphon effect that leads to annoying flooding which was a constant problem until I drilled through the solder with my smallest available micro drill bit. I also found out where to get real Hitachi jets in popular sizes for primaries.

Um nice... carb hat.

 

I love that carb hat, that's awesome, did the other one you had off of a Durango not work, as soon as I saw that one, I ran to the junkyard and got one of them

 

Yeah, I think its actually parts for plumbing a toilet.

I just chopped up a spare stock blue air cleaner. Then I clamped a 3" to 2" rubber adaptor to it. Then I used a 1&1/4 street elbow and a male to male thread "thingy"?? At any rate it will clamp to the rubber intake ducting I got from the turbo MX6.


How much room do I have from the top of the carb to the bottom of the hood?


I thossed that Durango part out. It will work fine with a larger carb like an Edelbrock, but the Nikki is a little smaller.

 

Plumbing parts from a toilet, and a Miller Light can under Mustanghammer's hood. What will people think of next?

 

Ha, another successful day.


I got the exhaust welded up to the axle hump.

Two things about this welding task.

ONE MIG (not flux core) kicks ***, like NO other. For the longest time I just thought I wasn't good enough to make 100% air tight welds. I am good enough (not that great) to make air tight welds and its all thanks to 75/25

TWO I need an extension cord. Cause making a tac weld then putting the pipe on the car only to walk back over and change the tac is beyond obnoxious.





Also, Nikki is in its home. 5 years or more this Nikki body was outside of the engine bay. Now the same Nikki body (the top, venturis, and jets are different) that Mazda put in there 30 years ago has returned.



And that carb hat thing I made doesn't work. Too high. Oh well at least I have confidence in my welding now to zip zip the hat out of a steel pipe and a piece of plate.

 

That's how I do mine. Stock base from a blue air cleaner assembly. 4" diameter 14 gauge steel tube, cut to 3" length. Then cut a 2" hole in the side. I add a 2" long 2" diameter 14 gauge steel tube. Then weld the stock base. Then flip it up and set a 1/4" steel circle, cut using a 4" hole saw. The resultant disc of steel is small enough to fit inside the 4" tube. It is usually supported by a paper tube or some other object I don't care about.

Total height just barely fits under my hood.

 

Can I pull that rubber gasket thing out of the stock lid? I'm hesitant to go ripping at it, but it looks like its just glued in there.



EDIT: never mind I just pulled it out.

^^That's what he said.

 

Heh, you can loosen up the glue with a propane torch. That's what I do. Just don't keep it there until it smokes.

 

Alrighty, got a few days off from work. Side note: I guess its kinda good to be a workaholic, cash for stuff but no time???


I got over the axle hump today with a 90 bend and some 45's. Now I just have to hang it.

I'm getting better with gas welding, but it still isn't pretty. Much easyer learning curve though. But I'd put my flux welds about as nice looking as my current gas welds. Still the gas welds are air tight regardless of how they look, and lets face it this pipe is under a car, not a place the casual observer looks at.



Now I'm just on the hunt for a 4" piece of pipe to make my carb hat. The local exhaust shop didn't have any scrap or any pipe in 4" diameter. I guess I need to find a diesel exhaust shop and ask there.

 

the hump.

Air tight but UGGGLY.

 

thar she is...

Passes the bounce test. No obnoxious bumps and rattles. I hate exhausts that hit the body or the axle. And being the first car exhaust I've fabricated from the ground up; it works quite well. (motorcycle exhausts in comparison are child's play.)

 

Looks great!! How's it sound?

 

That's the question that is KILLING me right now. AAAGGHHH

I don't have the intake done so I can't run it.


I've been contomplaiting dribbling some gasoline down the carb just to hear it run.



EDIT: Oh and the canister will sit a little higher when I get the hangers for it the way I want them. I have hangers for the rest of the exhaust, but not that canister.

 

Carb hat. One that fits under the hood. :P

Perfectly sealed... You can drink your morning cup of joe in it.


I used a HF hole saw to cut the hole in the side of the pipe. It worked surprisingly well; I think it has a few more cuts left in it too.