Those tires look awesome, what size are you using

 

205/50/15

The reviews for the RE71R say I'm only gonna get 10 or 15k miles. And they are NOISY (according to the reviews). BUT the reviews say they are SUPER grippy dry traction.

 

There it is on the car. With room to spare between the coils and the rubber.


Unfortunately I've lost any motivation to woller around in the dirt; so I'll wait to install suspension till tomorrow.


EDIT: oh, yeah, these are Honda accord wheels with a 1" thick spacer/adaptor. Just in case anybody was curious.

 

OK... I did have it in me to do a rear shocks and springs.

I'm happy to report a drop of 1/2". Which is what I wanted. I guess 80k 30 year old springs sag a bit. Just like ****.

 

EDIT: agggh I can't get a damn video up to save my life.

Its a video of the exhaust and BLOW OFF VALVE noise Its also a video of a very leaking oil return line.

Done with suspension, powertrain (at least this far), and wheel/tires. But I've noticed this isn't the end. The brake lines are CRAP, and there is some front end looseness that needs to be addressed.


Almost done as far as I'm concerned.


EDIT tiga:

 

Damn, I want to hear the exhaust and bov

 

Your idle sounds kinda high.

 

You've got some good ears!!

Yeah, I have it up around 1500 right now.

Everything will be settled in good time. I'm combating an oil leak, but after that's settled I'm gonna jump on Logworks and really get some good fuel ratio data.

 

WHOLY CRAP this thing is FUN on A BUN!!!

A little rich at idle (10.5), partly due to my ramped up, I don't trust this thing, high idle. And a little lean on the primaries (~13.5).


BUT DAMN. I don't know if its the new tires I got or if its the suspsension work I did OR the extra ponies under the hood, but this is FUN.

And the whistle of the turbo is to DIE for.




Unfortunately the tank needs to come off. I think I've got some crap clogging up the works. The wideband shot up to 20 or something and I could feel the leaness. Fuel pump was still making a racket in the back but the pre-pump fuel filter showed some scale or other kinds of dirtiness.

 

Congrats!!!!!!!!!!

That reminds me. I should probably change the pre-pump filter in the blue car. It is metal (can't see through it) and it let a lot of chunks of something through into the see-through filter in the bay. This means I gotta climb back under it tomorrow.

 

Congratulations!!!, I can't wait to get mine running

 

OK... whats going on with these things???


I was told the LSD pictured below is from an RX7, but I have my doubts cause it doesn't just drop into the carrier I have. Its ring gear has 43 teeth. the ring I have has 60 (that's a big difference).

Can I, or I guess better posed SHOULD I, take the ring gear off of the 60 tooth open diff and swap it onto the LSD?


I'm venturing into new territory here; other than taking covers off of trucks at work and inspecting them for damage I have VERY little experience with rear ends.

 

152 is a success. 2 can's of computer duster and the A/C is cold. 50 Fahrenheit from the vents. It doesn't seem like it sucks as much energy from the engine as 134 did. I'm VERY satisfied.

I got my brake pads and lines in the mail from Rock Auto today and I'll get them on tomorrow.

Its coming right along. Just gotta get off my *** and build the rear end.

 

I'm curious how you got it into the lines since they have a spray nozzle. Your car is coming along nicely. Also what size cans did you use

 

3-in-1 Side Mount Can Tap Valve at National Tool Warehouse


Side can tap


I used a pair of 200 gram or something in that ball park cans.

 

I just saw some pics of your setup in Ray green's OGTA thread. Looks pretty good. Now I have some questions for you, if you don't mind.

Why did you decide to run two distinct fuel inlet lines instead of the stock single inlet fuel rail? Did you do two 1/4" lines? I've got some damaged carbs (previous owners' fault) where the banjo bolts are not able to thread in anymore. I was going to cut NPT threads and plumb them with 1/8" brass nipple fittings with 1/4" barbs or something.

What size of secondary air bleeds did you decide on?

Looks like you stuck with the 79 top. Any problems?

How is your carb hat holding up?

How is your tune these days? Still lean on primaries?

What tune do you have right now? Do you happen to recall the air bleed and fuel jet numbers?

Does it have any secondary delays or other driveability glitches?

 

Nice! I did that on 2 vehicles so far, 93 Mazda Navaho (deceased) and 2000 BMW 323i.
Both worked great. I still have the BMW and its been good for 3 years now.

Feels really good when you get the duster stuff on sale at Staples.

The side can tap can be tricky to keep tight. You have to make sure you have a good
grip on it in case the latch lets loose. Ask me how I know.

When I put AC back in the SA I plan on using this again.

 

I went with the two inlets because I couldn't figure out the factory regulator thing and the 4309 has 4 holes in it (one for each bowl and one for inlet and one for a regulator). I don't know if its a bad thing or a good thing, but it is a working thing.
I don't see why threading directly into the nikki would be a problem. If you think about it as long as the pressure difference is about 2.5#s between the bowels and the source of fuel the floats will do there job.


The secondarys.... I'm just now getting to them. I have 1500 miles on the freesh engine so I just started playing more harder on it. It runs about 10.5:1 ish when its in the secondaries. Which is about where the carb runs when I'm in boost in the primaries. The car pulls fabulously at 10.5 in boost, but I guess it would be better to lean it up a bit. I'm using 140's I think...


The 79' top. Other than the issue with the altitude adjustment holes it runs good. I've been fighting the float hieghts and the aftermarket needles (OE seats), but I think I've won.



The carb hat is fine, but the gaskets that mate the top and body of the carb have been a fail point. Just from me taking the carb top off and on and changing jets so frequently I messed up my Hygrade gasket. I made a gasket from the fel-pro "cut your own" gasket paper and it blew out under boost. I used .8mm paper. Then for some reason I tried the 1.2mm paper thinking that it would give a better grip or something (I really don't know why I thought thicker was better). That blew out too... at any rate I ordered a new gasket and its been holding up to whatever I throw at it.



Yeah, lean on the off idle circuit. I spent so much time fighting the floats that I haven't had much time to put any effort to the primary short slow bleeds*. Other than that off idle (the point right before the boosters take over fuel delivery) glitch the carb is FABULOUS. It does just what my right foot tells it to do. Not perfect yet, but its getting MUCH closer.

EDIT: Oh there is the secondary jolting but I haven't drilled out the solder filled air bleeds to .35mm like you said yet. I'll get to it soon.



*So if I make the primary short slow air bleeds larger that makes the fuel mix richer???




TG: I love the A/C. I did it too late in the season to really enjoy it, but it does keep the windshield nice and fog free.
I used ester oil to lube my compressor. What did you use?

 

Nope, leaner. It lets too much air in for a finite amount of fuel. That's what you don't want. The factory holes are already really big ranging from 150 to 190 which were designed to work with the choke flap and tiny stock 20mm venturis. Obviously your choke flap is gone and your venturis are bigger than stock so you need smaller short slow primary bleeds. I found 118 is a great size for 24.7mm and smaller venturis but my monster carbs do slightly better with slightly smaller bleeds ranging from 118 down to 105 at which point they are so small (rich) the mixture screw needs to be cranked almost all the way in. It covers nicely for the flat spot these carbs have between idle and the main primary circuit though. There is a flat spot there because these are small carbs being asked to do the job of a bigger carb, and the transition circuit, which is the most sensitive circuit in these carbs, is virtually non-adjustable unless you have a set of factory long slows that are different from the stock 46s. I've had access to a set of rare 42s, 48s and 50s. Only the 42s, being smaller than stock, did anything favorable. Oh to have access to the Nikki manufacturing plant back in the 80s...

I've tried smaller than 105 short slows and it just didn't like it. Too rich, the mixture screw is out of calibration etc. But the range of 105 to 118 is great and does cover the flat spot that you're getting right now. You might try 118 if you haven't yet.

The other way to get past the flat spot is have a good accel pump. All my carbs get the Sterling mod with 118 or smaller drilled nozzles and banjo bolt holes. Do not go larger than 118. It wastes gas and floods the engine slightly every time you use it. It also has a slightly shorter duration, according to wankel=awesome, which with a turbo, you obviously don't want. It has to flow when the secondaries open, which is about 60% throttle opening on an FB carb. I think the SA carbs open at 70% but I found they suck for boost in other ways anyway, so I relegate the SA carbs to NA duty only.

Keep your 140 secondaries for now until you've solved your primary issues. I only recently started upping my secondaries to 145 in my carbs which now go to 10.0 when I first floor it (the rich spike covers for the delay I used to get) and then the carb will lean out to 11.5 and stay there. Back when I had 140s in it and before I added the manual boost controller, the carb would go right to 11.5 and all was good. Once I added the MBC, the increased boost was causing the carb to lean out to 12.5 to 13.0 in boost! Scary! So simply trying my next drill bit size up going from 140 to 145, brought me back to 11.5

Or maybe I'm having a slight fuel starvation/volume problem and maybe not. I'm still using the stock fuel rail but I've thought about doing a dual feed. However so far it only leans out to 11.5 which I think is textbook perfect so there's no reason to change it right now. Maybe once I add an intercooler and crank the boost up, I'll need to reexamine my fuel situation. Who knows.

Oh, I believe bad_83 did a dual fuel feed on his carb. He claimed he was splitting rear irons at 300HP. Remember his carb had STOCK 20mm venturis and stock primary jets and he insisted that you leave the primaries alone, and was still able to make 300HP just on his oversized secondary fuel jets and highish boost. He was breaking rear irons because they were Y castings and definitely not the strongest castings Mazda ever produced. I doubt he was leaning out, so maybe 300HP is the limit for Y irons? Either way, he didn't really get a secondary delay from his carb BECAUSE it had stock primary venturis and all stock air bleeds. All he ever got was a tiny hiccup or cough when he'd floor it. That's it. Like I said, the rather large OEM primary short slow bleeds are meant for stock tiny 20mm venturis and a stock choke flap. The carbs always run better after the choke flap is removed, especially when cold, with a reduction of the short slows to about 118. Even stock 20mm carbs benefit from this if you've removed the choke flap in a misguided attempt at increasing air flow without hogging out the obviously tiny venturis to something usable of at least 22mm or so. I personally won't run anything smaller than about 23mm or so on a stockported 12A. Speaking of which, I think bad_83s' 12A was stock ported. Interesting. 300HP on stock ports. Not bad.

 

Alright, its almost summer and its motorbike time; so the cars can take a break.

Time for the next step in this great journey.

I want limited slip (badly). Not enough traction with one wheel. And I got a non-smoking version of the turbo I have. And I want some intercooling action (just cause).

I'm thinking something like this for the intercooler...


Small K Kei Car Fmic Front Mount Intercooler Core Fit Suzuki Jimny Swift Wagonr | eBay

And I'm gonna try to keep it on one side of the radiator and put a wee fan behind it.



Unfortunately I got one of these VW car's; so the RX7's gotta fight for love.

 

That vw is awesome, you should definitely put a rotary in it

 

Mazda rotary to VW transaxle Kennedy adapter kit and Weber side draft carb.

Thought about it.

But I keep telling myself "4 seater family car; don't f it up"

I even have a spare 12A

 

Don't do a weber on it. Do a Nikki!

You'll find so little room for a rotary exhaust system in a VW, that you simply MUST install a turbo because it's the only muffler that actually adds power. And you know what that means. Hogged out boost prepped Nikki!

My advice: get that kit and sell off the weber stuff.

 

Na, the Ghia is gonna stay pretty much stock. I might supercharge it with a Subaru supercharger and draw through some webbers, but I think its just gonna stay stock. I might try to make a buck off of it; who knows.



Back to the red car.

I got (as irony would have it) a VW side mount IC. And my turbo came in the mail. So time to shake off the old smoky turbo tomorrow and toss on the new one that doesn't have any broken studs.

 

Any pictures of the intercooler