Wouldn't such a tall shifter negate any length given on the bottom of the ball of the shifter?


I'm getting used to the shifter as is.

 

No.

A short shifter kit works by adding length to the lower part of the shift ball (which is why you add a spacer above the OEM configuration), in which the fulcrum length shortens (more effort is necessary), and as a result, your shift length is shorter.


SO, let's draw it out:

OEM:

(****)--------------(BALL)--

Short Shifter:

(****)-----------(BALL)-------


What's the result?

Well, the short shifter does a HELL of a lot more travel distance at the base (which it can't, because it's constrained) with the most minute of changes at the ****. There's your short shift effect. What does this mean? Shifting effort and accuracy are decreased! Definitely not a drawback if you know what you're doing.

 

yeah, but with that **** extender thing in the link you posted the ratio of "**** side" to opposite ball side is the same as factory.

Factory
(****)----------Ball---
short
(****)-------Ball------
short with extender (same ratio as stock just on a larger scale)
(****)--------------------ball------


besides it kinda looks like a clown shifter.

 

The idea is to get a SHORT shifter with a nice height and relatively short shift. Long **** locates it closer to the steering wheel (better location).

 

Also received my shifter from Erick. Take a look at my post here to see comparison of stock and this shifter: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12103800

The height is actually a little longer with the short throw shifter than stock shifter.

 

When I first started driving it around I kept throwing from 2nd to 5th. But I'm pretty good at it now. I can keep the boost going through a few gears now.

 

I'm glad your getting used to.it,hopefully I'll get to drive mine sometime real soon.I have a question,how much boost are you making,i had some boost leaks,in think I got them fixed,it hooked my boost gauge up,and I had it up to 6 psi. That is with it running on them blocks I have it on,not actually on the ground

 

hehe... I dunno how much boost. I know its bad, I could be over boosting or heaven forbid loosing pressure :O

I am thinking about putting one in just for reference, but the car runs great. I figure don't go poking around if nothings wrong. I hear the turbo spin up... and I hear the zoidberg sound of the B.O.V. Brings a smile to my face every time.

 

I put the factory shift *** back on the short shifter.... PERFECT height.

I'm sure the stubby **** is great for racing but I daily drive my car and the short throws were getting old.

SOOOOOOOO... Its time to tell me not to do something. Is this a bad place to mount coils? I'm going direct fire and I'm lazy so I don't want to have to put a piece of angle iron or mount the coils on the body. The engine has these useless holes bored into it so I figure why not mount coils there

But I think they might get hot. Well I guess wei'll find out soon enough


And it was the newest episode of MCM that encouraged me to put this together. I've had the HEI's and wires for about a year now; I was just too lazy to make them mount up.

 

Will they clear the hood.it looks like they stick up kind of high

 

Plus they'll get hot and wear out faster.

 

Doesn't matter. They are gonna hang from the strut tower like everybody boring else.


I opened the hood and took a poke around. Doing what everybody else does is the best way to do it.

On the plus side I made a cool little bracket like hanger to mount everything to. HEI's on the back and coils hanging from the front in one clean little panel.

 

I have that same lighter,lol.that bracket looks good.i like how you mounted the ignitors on the back and the coils on the front of it.

 

Well, I did it finally. Individual coil pack ignition with GM ignitors.


Works, but the J-109s were fine. Main reason why I did it is cause I don't want to have to buy super expensive/rareish J-109s. I can get GM ignitors for pennies.

 

Got my Honda wheels... YEEEEEE HAWWWWW!!!

10#s lighter than the steel boat anchors I have on the car.


Now I've got to... Buy a powder coat gun; buy an oven; AND learn how to powder coat.

 

Now black Honda accord wheels


And I used that Vista print website to make some emblems for the center.

 

Those turned out nice! How are you going to put the center emblems on?

 

Vista print. I got the stickers yesterday, and applied them.

But I've been informed (by the jests from my co-workers) that my wheels are not so good. They are "bland".


The original paint scheme from Honda was a clear aluminum with a grey side of the spokes. Much similar to the oe Mazda wheels. But I went with a semi-gloss black paint. My buddies suggest I need something to break up the single color like a splash of red on the sides of the spokes. I'm hesitant to add the same color as the body of the car to the wheels; it seems tacky. Don't know what I'm gonna do with them.

 

Your co-workers are right!

Ideas:

1) Polished Lip
2) Polished Lip and Edges of Spokes (YAAASSS!)
3) Polished Lip and Face
4) Proper Powdercoating of a NICE color, so it's durable.
5) Buy Nicer Wheels

 

Yay!! Proper intercooler piping and a proper aftermarket intercooler.

Just gotta make the brackets to mount it up and finish cutting the holes in the side radiator supports for the tubing. But it fits


Also, in a double whammy I put the BOV on the carb hat.

 

Got a big ole Racing Beat intake manifold.

And a new RX7 home.


Some problems with the RB manifold. Its tall. the carb hat I'm using will NOT by any means clear the hood. So that leaves me with two options.

1. Cut a hole in the hood... I'm really thinking about it.

2. Make another carb hat. Probably the road I'm gonna go down.


But all this has to wait till I close on my new garage (with adjacent house).


OH and what kind of performance clutchs are best for the first gen transmission? Can any of them take the pounding from a turbo 13B with sticky tires? If I floor this thing in 4th or 5th it just spins. I've got a brand new Excedy clutch with like 1000 miles on it.

 

You are gonna LOVE working in that garage vs. grass or gravel - congratulations!!

 

Yeah, I'm super stoked about it.

BUT the 7 is the second to the last to enter the working side of the garage.... The front main seal on the wife's Miata is first on the work side, then the Karmann Ghia needs transmission mounts, and then the 7.


For the rotary car....


I'm not messing around with the 7's new clutch. I just put in a stock Excedy clutch and pressure plate. Its most definitely NOT up for the challenge. So I'm gonna go with the RB racing pressure plate and a 4 puck Excedy racing clutch.

Then I want to rebuild my S4 turbo and I might go hybrid.... dunno how the nikki will hold up to more boost; so I might just stay with the safe and reasonable 8 ish psi. That also argues the "upgrade carburetor" issue.

And of course the intake manifold upgrade. Which I really think is gonna help. My current manifold is pretty skinny just from the factory. To make matters worse the adaptor makes it smaller. The manifold I have works for sure, but I think I'm missing at least 10 or 20 ponies.

 

There are better options Quingdao. For example you could go with a 6 puck sprung center disc and the Exedy stage 1 pressure plate.

Another option is to go with Exedy's cerametallic which they are calling stage 2, which is a 3 puck sprung center but I have no experience with it so I'd look forward to your findings. https://www.mazdatrix.com/f-ExedyKits.htm

But for now, I'm going with an Exedy stage 1 pressure plate and matching stock style disc as can be purchased from Mazdatrix. https://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=16-10806

 

^^^ I'll just wait for your findings and follow suit. I'm sure our power levels are similar enough.