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Old 05-04-12, 06:53 PM
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1985rx7mikesrx7
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Exclamation tips n tricks. new rx7 owner here

ok my dad finally gave me his 1985 rx7 gsl with a 12A after asking for it for years and years and years. ive never worked on these motors befor but i am doing alot of reserch and am learning as i go so tips and tricks for this car please. im not looking to got 1000mph in it just wanna keep it so i can pass it down to my son too. but going fast is always fun so any HP tips will help alot. ok the car has sat for the past 3years it is up and running has been for a couple weeks now. today i found that the shutter valve was stuck open so it wasnt running very good, but i got that fixed and seems to be running alot better now but when i get into the high rpms it spits and sputters and when im in 3rd it seems to have almost no power and 4th n 5th have no power what so ever. its even hard to maintan my speed at 60mph. i know it needs a tune up bad and am planing on doing as much of it as i can this weekend. the other night i looked under the hood and seen lil blue and white sparks jumping between plug wires and the plugs them self where glowing blue. kind of flickering i guess. so i plan on replaceing the plugs and wires first then oil ext ext... i have been runing premium threw it to help clean it out. is this wrong to do for this motor? it was hard to start at first but after installing a switch just for the fuel pump it starts every time but my starter gives me problems at times. when drive down the road letting off the gas it does back fire alot. so please guys any tips will help. im 22 about to be 23 this month (24th) i am a first time owner and am more then happy to be part of the rotory club and i plan on staying for a life time. thanks for looking guys!!!!!! oh and for some reson it wont let me upload vidios on here. (off my phone) but i can do it for my facebook page tho. any one know about that?
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Old 05-04-12, 10:48 PM
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You dont need to run premium. The rotary is a low efficency motor and running 93 compared to the 87 is a waste. If the plug wires are arcing u need to replace em. Also since it sat for a few years ide do a complete fluid overhaul eng oil,trans/diff gear oil, coolant. It never hurts and protects your car of alot of dmg from neglecting past owners. Idk much about the shutter valve but ide look up the rats nest delete if u dont have emissions where you live it makes troubleshooting any vac lines super simple cuz it goes from 100 lines to like 8.

Nevertheless welcome to the club. Parooze thru the archives and you can find alot of cool stuff to do for pretty minimalistic prices that help performance (2nd gen coils comes to mind).
Old 05-04-12, 11:25 PM
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thanks for the respond. thanks for the tip on the 93 to 87 usly when i get a truck runing or first buy a new car/truck i run 93 threw it the first two fill ups to help clean the motor n lines n stuff. but i will stop wasting my money on that then glad i only put in 4 gallions befor i wasted 2 fill ups on it. as for the rats nest removal i do plan on it. thats my first mod on my list just gotta get some things for it (air line, conectors, fittings....ext ext..) i just changed the rear axle fluid and it had water in it and it was over full. motor oil is next and plugs n wires. i did find rx7carl how to page but if ther is and easyer one out there let me know. they do explane alot in it tho so i dont think it would be to hard. thanks again.
Old 05-04-12, 11:31 PM
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ohhh and has any one heard of putting water in the motor threw the carb to clean out built up carbon? can u do that on the first gen? and how do u do it? i heard some people do it threw one of the air lines or spraying some stright in the carb well u have the car reved up? any one know any thing about it? and if it would benifit me let me know please.
Old 05-04-12, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PK_12A
Hey Mike and welcome to the club,
First thing I'll tell you is this, do a FULL tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change, (as well as the rest of the fluids) ect. change ALL the filters and rebuild the carb, and remember you don't have coil packs like on the cobalt but,old school canister coils (think old school 60's muscle car) so they may need changed as well. These cars don't have alot of power stock (101bhp I belive) but, a good tune up will do wonders to help in making the car run much, much, better especially after sitting and it sounds like it needs it from what you describe. After the tune up go over all the steering and suspension components as they may need replaced, and remember the reciprocating ball steering box in these cars has ALOT of play to start with but worn steering and suspension parts can contribute to the steering slop. Hope this helps you some and again welcome to the first gen section.
To quote what I said in the first thread, and add some things to this that's a nice fb you've got there with alot of potential. Next thing is check for vacuum leaks and it sounds like you may need a carb rebuild and definitely check the fuel filter that causes alot of grief and is about $3. I'd still give her a full tune up since she's sat a while. I have read about the de-carbonizing by spraying water through the intake with a spray bottle of water but, a tune up will be much more beneficial to you. Start with the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and do an oil and filter change. Again welcome and nice looking fb.

Last edited by PK_12A; 05-04-12 at 11:57 PM. Reason: added stuff
Old 05-05-12, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by PK_12A
To quote what I said in the first thread, and add some things to this that's a nice fb you've got there with alot of potential. Next thing is check for vacuum leaks and it sounds like you may need a carb rebuild and definitely check the fuel filter that causes alot of grief and is about $3. I'd still give her a full tune up since she's sat a while. I have read about the de-carbonizing by spraying water through the intake with a spray bottle of water but, a tune up will be much more beneficial to you. Start with the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and do an oil and filter change. Again welcome and nice looking fb.
i cant say thank u enough for the respons. so than u again. tune up starts tomorrow moring. will update again tomorrow night to let u know how she is running.
Old 05-05-12, 02:22 AM
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I have not personally done the decarbonization with the steam(water). But i have done seafoam and most members of this forum sware by it. Run seafoam thru ur tank every oil change/every other and you will get great results. It cleans carbon out as well as cleaning anything it touches so the whole fuel system. The rx7carl guide is the best/only guide to rats nest removal. Glazedham made a thread a few years ago about what u dont need on a stock nikki its called like strippin a nikki or osmething liek that u can look it up. That will help u have a more visual look at what u can take off the carb itself.
Old 05-05-12, 03:20 AM
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Your more than welcome Mike as much as this community has helped me any time I can help another rotorite get one going again I feel it my obligation to help any way I can. I will agree with DarkDrakeX said seafoam is the standard as far as cleaning out the fuel system and all just remember in the tank not the oil, I've seen a few people say put it in the oil which will KILL your engine. I also agree if you don't have to worry about getting an emissions test ditch the rat nest, strip the nikki (carb), and ditch the cat for a test pipe (this will free some hp too) or RB pre-silencer. Something you will find useful again and again is the factory manuals, there is a sticky to Sgt. Fox's page in the 1st gen tech section,

as for the rats nest removal here's the link,
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf,

mazspeed.com also has plenty of other great info as well

and for stripping the carb,
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...stripping+carb

and the cat delete pipe,
http://rx7.com/store/rx7/saexhaust.html

Trust me all takes time and you are starting at the right place, look forward to seeing your progress.

Last edited by PK_12A; 05-05-12 at 03:26 AM.
Old 05-05-12, 03:53 AM
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Seafoam will work great, will get rid of any carbon and residual water deposits. DO SEAFOAM before you do the tune up. Also look at replacing the rubber fuel lines as well.
Old 05-05-12, 04:19 AM
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^Hold off on the plugs till after the seafoam, with the wires arcing though definitely get those replaced and as I posted in the other thread do check the omp and make sure it is functioning and if any doubts PREMIX is your friend, 100:1 ratio I believe and it's just extra insurance if you just run it anyway.
Old 05-05-12, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PK_12A
^Hold off on the plugs till after the seafoam, with the wires arcing though definitely get those replaced and as I posted in the other thread do check the omp and make sure it is functioning and if any doubts PREMIX is your friend, 100:1 ratio I believe and it's just extra insurance if you just run it anyway.
ok got every thing i could for the tune up but my plugs and wires have to be orderd. so ill get them on tuesday. along with the fuel filter. i did put seafoam in the gas tank and motor about 3weeks ago. i have drove it that much but there is alot of idel time with it in there. i also got every thing for the rat nest removal as well but couldnt find the lawnmower belt. (has to be orderd as well) so ill wait till next weekend to do that. will do what i can today and see if it make a differnce. thank again guys.
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Old 05-05-12, 10:12 PM
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changed the oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid, and axle oil. cleaned it up some more and put on the 15s. drives nicer already. i will upload some vidios of the drive today and a lil bit of fun i had with her.
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Old 05-06-12, 12:49 AM
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Good to hear.
Old 05-06-12, 03:36 PM
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ok was thinking about removing some of the exhaust system. but witch cat can i remove? there 2 lil ones and the big one. i was thinking i wanna remove the lil ones. what will this do for my HP and how much louder will get get. i dont want some one to be able to hear me coming from 10 blocks away but i want the added horsepower. what do the two little ones do any ways? help please!!!
Old 05-06-12, 03:37 PM
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Arrow

pic of what i got
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Old 05-07-12, 03:43 AM
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Ok I some times forget there is more than 1 cat, as mine only had the main one (big pancake one) and the per cat was just a strait pipe. With the bonez race pipe you can get rid of the big main but you need a custom down pipe or headers to get rid of the pre cats. Best bang for the buck are the Racing Beat ones and the race pipe bolts right up to the header flange, I've read the pacesetter ones are junk due to inferior materials. I'd save for the headers over getting a down pipe made as you will gain some ponies and they sound nice. If you do remove the emissions the main has to come out or it will clog due to no air-pump so if you have to do it in stages get the race pipe then headers better to get both at the same time though for the most benefit.
Old 05-07-12, 01:52 PM
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First rule for a new RX-7 owner; The edge of the handling envelope from understeer to oversteer is very, very narrow on a stock -7, especially if the suspension parts have aged. The rear suspension geometry in these cars can bind up in hard cornering and you WILL spin, if you don't know precisely where the break-away point is.

Doubly true for people who started out in FWD cars - - all your skid instincts are backwards for a RWD, live-axle.

The forum is littered with "OMG, I crashed my car" threads and most of them point back to somebody who hung their *** out just a bit too abruptly & made the rear end decide to come up front and see WTH the driver's up to, only to end up stuffing the outside rear wheel up under the car on a curb.

Don't try to be the 'drift king' until you have a really, really clear feel for how the car handles at the edges of the envelope. A lot of wet and dry practice corners in a vacant parking lot will save you a bunch of tears and a pile of $$.

Once you have it understood, you can turn this characteristic to your advantage on cornering... but you have to develop a feel for it first.
Old 05-07-12, 02:18 PM
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thanks for the tip. i know just the spot i can pratice too and i have some cones laying around. how sharp should i start praticeing the corner at? just doing normal driveing i can already feel the car "come a live" in the corners. it feels realy wired to me becouse im so used to cars that stay solid threw the corners but am starting to get used to it the more i drive it.
Old 05-07-12, 02:20 PM
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^Very well put DD, practice makes perfect and keeps you from eating the curb.
Old 05-07-12, 05:52 PM
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If the space is big and unobstructed enough, just keep pushing it tighter while accelerating until you feel the rear give way, then be ready to come off the gas & reverse steering to straighten it back out. Easiest to do it in the wet, but you want to get the feel both wet and dry.
Old 05-07-12, 05:57 PM
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Thumbs up

ive been praticeing with the take off U-turn thing it slids and i found the sweet spot on where to crank the wheel. tones of fun but like u said i need pratice in the driveing cornering still. thanks for the tips guys very much apperciated!!!!
Old 05-09-12, 06:39 PM
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changed plugs n fuel filter. runs even better. but my plug wires n cap n rotor did not come in. (i guess they got lost in the mail) so they had to reorder. gotta wait till friday to get them.
Old 05-10-12, 09:49 AM
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Question

gas gauge isnt working. the gauge it self does still work cheaked it last night so no i am takeing off that plate behind the tire to try see whats going on with the lever it self. any tips on that?
Old 05-10-12, 08:46 PM
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Yea sending unit is shot hope the connecter is still good.
Old 05-11-12, 11:32 AM
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i think its the connecter becouse of how much green stuff was on it. i took it off to clean it and it all fell apart. so i guess i need the hole thing how unless i can get the connecter by its self.


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