Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB
#1
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB
Hey guys,
So I bought a FC For $900. mainly for the engine and front subframe for my FB. I dont want the rear end to be scrapped with the rest of the car. So I have decided to Stuff the FC IRS under my FB.
Reasons for swap:
1. I Already have a compleate FC rear end and all the goodies to go with it.
2.Gives me 5 bolt wheel lug
3.Big rear brake upgrade
4. I will be able to use the rear coilovers from the set ill get for the front.
5.I will be able to upgrade to 8 inch ring gear when I get a turbo diff and shafts
6. Upgrade to independent rear suspension.
7. More options
Im starting the swap today so I will update tonight.
So I bought a FC For $900. mainly for the engine and front subframe for my FB. I dont want the rear end to be scrapped with the rest of the car. So I have decided to Stuff the FC IRS under my FB.
Reasons for swap:
1. I Already have a compleate FC rear end and all the goodies to go with it.
2.Gives me 5 bolt wheel lug
3.Big rear brake upgrade
4. I will be able to use the rear coilovers from the set ill get for the front.
5.I will be able to upgrade to 8 inch ring gear when I get a turbo diff and shafts
6. Upgrade to independent rear suspension.
7. More options
Im starting the swap today so I will update tonight.
#3
From everything ive read its possible but extremelyyy hard due to going from a solid read to a live axle. Goodluck with it man. Im lookin forward to seeing some progress pics.
#4
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Allright,
Today I pulled out the straight axle, And started sizing up the diff and the subframe.
I think the best way to do this swap is to use bits of the FC frame to ease the mounting of the FC Drivetrain.
The diff mount was easy. I used the diff mount from the FC. I cut it to size so It fitt right inbetween the FB rails. After some careful measuring welded it in place, Then welded 1/8 inch steel brackets on the sides to reinforce it.
Today I pulled out the straight axle, And started sizing up the diff and the subframe.
I think the best way to do this swap is to use bits of the FC frame to ease the mounting of the FC Drivetrain.
The diff mount was easy. I used the diff mount from the FC. I cut it to size so It fitt right inbetween the FB rails. After some careful measuring welded it in place, Then welded 1/8 inch steel brackets on the sides to reinforce it.
Trending Topics
#11
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Today I mounted the subframe mounts. I cut the subframe mounts out of the FC and started the size them up the the FB.
After getting a good idea of where they are going to be mounted in the car. I started cutting big chunks of my car out (Got a little to cut happy I think).
Then I Bolted the subframe mounts to the subframe and did the tedious task of making sure I had the subframe just where I wanted it. Then tack welded them in place.
I measured again after tack welding them, Then I started some sheet metal work.
After getting a good idea of where they are going to be mounted in the car. I started cutting big chunks of my car out (Got a little to cut happy I think).
Then I Bolted the subframe mounts to the subframe and did the tedious task of making sure I had the subframe just where I wanted it. Then tack welded them in place.
I measured again after tack welding them, Then I started some sheet metal work.
#16
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So today I got some more sheetmetal work done on the subframe mounts..
After getting some more sheetmetal holding the subframe in place I mounted a control arm to see what kind of clearance im going to have to make for them.. More then I thought.
I have to cut out such a large chunk of the frame rails that im going to have to make a new set of framerails.
After getting some more sheetmetal holding the subframe in place I mounted a control arm to see what kind of clearance im going to have to make for them.. More then I thought.
I have to cut out such a large chunk of the frame rails that im going to have to make a new set of framerails.
#17
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys,
So I Got some beefy 2x3 steel tubing for the new framerails.
The new framerails go "Inside" of the car at this point, Then go through the floor where they are welded onto the stock rails. Did a little more sheetmetal and called it a day.
With the use of a "angle finder" and a "contour gauge" the fab work wasnt bad for the rails.
So I Got some beefy 2x3 steel tubing for the new framerails.
The new framerails go "Inside" of the car at this point, Then go through the floor where they are welded onto the stock rails. Did a little more sheetmetal and called it a day.
With the use of a "angle finder" and a "contour gauge" the fab work wasnt bad for the rails.
#18
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,800
Received 2,574 Likes
on
1,830 Posts
hmm since you have to do so much fab work, you should put the control arm on the subframe and look at where you're at, in an FC lowering the car gives you more negative camber than we want, but since you're performing surgery, you can fix this by moving the subframe UP in the car, which is the ideal fix to the problem.
#19
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I did think about that, Cuz I do plan on lowering it..The subframe is as far "up" as I would want to go. Anymore and it will require a lot more fab work.
I was reading about the "camber bar" racingbeat and mazdatrix sells, and how it tilts the subframe to adjust camber..
The tech at racingbeat told me that if you can dimple the "frame" you can get a lot more camber adjustment out of it.. So I left plenty of room so I can get the most out of the camber bar.
Since the bar adjusts camber by tilting the subframe. couldnt I andjust camber by tilting the subframe mounts in the car???
I was reading about the "camber bar" racingbeat and mazdatrix sells, and how it tilts the subframe to adjust camber..
The tech at racingbeat told me that if you can dimple the "frame" you can get a lot more camber adjustment out of it.. So I left plenty of room so I can get the most out of the camber bar.
Since the bar adjusts camber by tilting the subframe. couldnt I andjust camber by tilting the subframe mounts in the car???
#20
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had no kid today, So I spent all the time I had on it today.
I got a bunch of the sheetmetal work done. The subframe mounts are pretty much done..
Cant wait to get started on the strut towers.
I got a bunch of the sheetmetal work done. The subframe mounts are pretty much done..
Cant wait to get started on the strut towers.
#22
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, The landlord stopped by and told me he wanted the car off the jack stands asap. So I put a lot of time into it to get it on the ground..
It's not done by any means, But it is on the ground.
It's not done by any means, But it is on the ground.
#25
Never falter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
THANK YOU!
I am having few issues though. I am have a lot more trouble finding a turbo II driveshaft then I thought I would.
It's either that or buy a N/A clutch and flywheel and use the N/A tranny and driveshaft that I already have.
At any rate Ill have to wait a while for funds. This swap cost me real close to $200, But now I can sell all my Turbo II swap into a FB stuff
I am having few issues though. I am have a lot more trouble finding a turbo II driveshaft then I thought I would.
It's either that or buy a N/A clutch and flywheel and use the N/A tranny and driveshaft that I already have.
At any rate Ill have to wait a while for funds. This swap cost me real close to $200, But now I can sell all my Turbo II swap into a FB stuff