Build Threads The place for complete build threads of 1st Gen RX-7s.

Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-20-12, 07:03 PM
  #26  
sa7
Senior Member

iTrader: (13)
 
sa7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cape Breton, NS
Posts: 726
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes on 14 Posts
Wow, that is awesome. I can't wait to see what you think of the handling now.
Old 05-20-12, 11:05 PM
  #27  
PSHH! PSHH! HEAR ME NOW?

iTrader: (3)
 
bad 83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Statesville NC
Posts: 4,132
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
All you need is a driveshaft yolk from a second gen automatic. Same yolk as the TII, but uses the same u-joint as the 83.5 to 85 first gens. No need for an expensive custome driveshaft.
Old 05-21-12, 12:30 AM
  #28  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Im pretty sure the stock turbo II driveshaft will bolt right up.. There is no part left on the cars drivetrain that is first gen.
Old 05-21-12, 07:46 AM
  #29  
Never Follow

iTrader: (18)
 
82transam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 8,305
Likes: 0
Received 67 Likes on 49 Posts
Isn't the diff you're using an NA? If so you'll need the NA yoke.

In either case that is looking great, really nice work! Looks like it belongs there
Old 05-21-12, 12:51 PM
  #30  
PSHH! PSHH! HEAR ME NOW?

iTrader: (3)
 
bad 83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Statesville NC
Posts: 4,132
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
If the rear center is NA, just use the entire automatic driveshaft. That will work!
Old 05-21-12, 08:39 PM
  #31  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bad 83
If the rear center is NA, just use the entire automatic driveshaft. That will work!
That is sweet!!! I had no clue that the automatic driveshaft had 23 splines.. That and I wasnt sure if the rear diff used a different flange between N/A and turbo..

So if a FC guy swaps a turbo II tranny in his N/A car he just has to get a automatic drive shaft and he is basically good to go? Thanks for the info guys!
Old 05-21-12, 09:00 PM
  #32  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I Did a bit of research and found out the automatic driveshaft is close to two inches shorter. Has anybody had trouble using this setup before? Like bad vibrations or anything?
Attached Thumbnails Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB-drive_shaft_specs.jpg  
Old 05-21-12, 10:29 PM
  #33  
Senior Member

iTrader: (3)
 
Keeble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rockwall, TX
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
well it depends, whats the length between your tranny and diff? are you positive its the same as a 2nd gen?
Old 05-22-12, 12:40 AM
  #34  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Keeble
well it depends, whats the length between your tranny and diff? are you positive its the same as a 2nd gen?
You have a very good point.
So, As soon as it stops raining Im going to crawl under there and take some measurements.
Old 05-22-12, 09:15 PM
  #35  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So I did some measuring today it is about 35.5 inches from the diff flange to the end of the transmission tail housing. So Im guessing the automatic driveshaft is out of the question It being 35.94 inches long. The turbo/N/A length driveshaft(38 inches) looks like it will be a great fit.

OK so here are my options.
1.Get custom driveshaft made.
2.Install turbo diff, halfshafts and turbo driveshaft.
3.Get N/A flywheel and clutch. Then use the N/A transmission and drive shaft I already have.

I think its time to start looking for a clutch and flywheel.
Old 05-23-12, 01:59 PM
  #36  
Respecognize!

 
Whizbang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Anchor Bay, CA
Posts: 4,106
Received 71 Likes on 42 Posts
well this swap looked rather straight forward. I considered it for my rally car. perhaps ill go through it it. I just really do not like the pin mount for the struts. I have thought about using a toyota mk3 supra assembly instead.

or go four link...
Old 05-23-12, 04:55 PM
  #37  
Mazda Tech
iTrader: (4)
 
MazdaMike02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tottenham, ON
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Just get tII trans, diff and shafts. The NA stuff is fairly weak. The transmissions are only designed for NA, they cant handle much hp. You'll shear the teeth right off the gears. The diff's are okay, I havent heard too much of them grenading. Your going to end up swapping to TII stuff anyway, might as well do it now.
Old 05-23-12, 06:11 PM
  #38  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Gravity Fed
well this swap looked rather straight forward. I considered it for my rally car. perhaps ill go through it it. I just really do not like the pin mount for the struts. I have thought about using a toyota mk3 supra assembly instead.

or go four link...
The swap was pretty much straight forward. Everything kinda fit right in, Besides the subframe mounts.

I havent driven the car yet, But I would recommend this swap to anybody that can Cut, measure and weld. The most metalworking I had under my belt before this was a welding class and I made a couple exhaust systems.

It did cost close to $200 Dollars(Sheetmetal, cutoff discs, welding wire, Seam sealer Etc.) and quite a few man hours.

I would do this swap again.
Old 05-23-12, 06:39 PM
  #39  
You wanna do what?????

iTrader: (2)
 
Frankenmazda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Greater Cincinnati
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 4 Posts
good trade?

Originally Posted by RE-TurboFB
The swap was pretty much straight forward. Everything kinda fit right in, Besides the subframe mounts.

I havent driven the car yet, But I would recommend this swap to anybody that can Cut, measure and weld. The most metalworking I had under my belt before this was a welding class and I made a couple exhaust systems.

It did cost close to $200 Dollars(Sheetmetal, cutoff discs, welding wire, Seam sealer Etc.) and quite a few man hours.

I would do this swap again.
Tell you what. You swap my rear and I'll swap your front!

I will be doing this swap in the future. You made it look easy. Good job!
Old 05-23-12, 08:24 PM
  #40  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ooops! I lied in that last post. I forgot to mention that I did a FC front subframe swap as well. But The front end has a bad ride hight issue.

Frankenmazda your car is AWESOME!!! (IMO)A IRS setup would really set it off!
Attached Thumbnails Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB-front-subframe.jpg   Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB-side2.jpg  
Old 05-26-12, 12:42 AM
  #41  
Respecognize!

 
Whizbang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Anchor Bay, CA
Posts: 4,106
Received 71 Likes on 42 Posts
well you convinced me to try it i think.
Old 05-26-12, 02:15 AM
  #42  
Respecognize!

 
Whizbang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Anchor Bay, CA
Posts: 4,106
Received 71 Likes on 42 Posts
how much suspension travel are you getting in the rear. especially with out the sway bar.
Old 05-26-12, 12:15 PM
  #43  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Gravity Fed
how much suspension travel are you getting in the rear. especially with out the sway bar.
The sway bar is installed.
This is the only part on the FB that will limit suspension travel, and the only part of the FC rear end that would make contact here is the "lateral link".

The way mine is setup right now the tire will bury itself into the fender well before it will run out of suspension travel.
Im sure if I went with a smaller diameter wheel/tire It would still bury it in the wheel well before any suspention components would make contact.
Attached Thumbnails Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB-sus-travel.jpg  
Old 05-26-12, 12:36 PM
  #44  
You wanna do what?????

iTrader: (2)
 
Frankenmazda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Greater Cincinnati
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 4 Posts
ride height

Originally Posted by RE-TurboFB
Ooops! I lied in that last post. I forgot to mention that I did a FC front subframe swap as well. But The front end has a bad ride hight issue.

Frankenmazda your car is AWESOME!!! (IMO)A IRS setup would really set it off!

Looks like you are going to have to ditch the springs and go to a coilover setup. You can also raise the strut towers. I raised mine 2 inches but the hood hits it so you have to deal with that as well. An inch or so will clear the hood.

I would love to add a FC IRS but for now I just want to drive it! Maybe a future winter project.

Can't wait to see yours finished.
Old 05-26-12, 08:39 PM
  #45  
Never falter

Thread Starter
 
RE-TurboFB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Frankenmazda
Looks like you are going to have to ditch the springs and go to a coilover setup. You can also raise the strut towers. I raised mine 2 inches but the hood hits it so you have to deal with that as well. An inch or so will clear the hood.

I would love to add a FC IRS but for now I just want to drive it! Maybe a future winter project.

Can't wait to see yours finished.
I'm a huge fan of your car!!!
I LOVE what you did with your front strut towers!!! I am going to do that myself(but only one inch).

I am going to get a set of coilovers, But its going to be awhile. Im a single dad with a four year old and I work at home depot.. So its a major "budget" build..
Old 05-28-12, 10:02 PM
  #46  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (-2)
 
boostaholic_13b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Angelo Tx
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Would you happen to know how wide the fc assy is wheels mounting space to wheel mounting space?
Old 11-09-12, 01:47 PM
  #47  
Never Follow

iTrader: (18)
 
82transam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 8,305
Likes: 0
Received 67 Likes on 49 Posts
RE-Turbo FB - Just wondering how this setup holding up?.
Old 11-09-12, 02:43 PM
  #48  
13BEE

iTrader: (5)
 
UniqueFc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is awesome .. keep us posted on how thing are going with the FB
Old 11-09-12, 03:25 PM
  #49  
Rallye RX7

iTrader: (11)
 
fidelity101's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: MI/CHI
Posts: 2,403
Received 93 Likes on 55 Posts
Im curious to see how much it weighs!
Old 11-11-12, 04:57 PM
  #50  
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
 
bigred84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ohio
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
great job!! i've been seriously wondering about this idea. you may have just helped me with the last idea for my se. props to you.


Quick Reply: Stuffing a FC rear end in a FB



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:39 PM.