I don't have the Pins/Connectors from Will yet. He's shipping them out this week. Notice how the ethernet cable comes from one of the 4x connectors.

 

Harumph! I've got like a dozen sets of 1 and 2 keyway Motec/Haltech/Emtron/etc connectors and a couple spools of pins laying around, Mouser is your friend. All I hear are excuses!

 

Fun Fact: Ethernet only needs a twisted pair to work.
Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see your harness.

 

Wouldnt you need 2 twisted pair for tx/rx?

 

100BASE-T1 and 1000BASE-T1 both run over a single twisted pair. As far as I know it's only found in automotive applications but is different from standard CAN as it's full duplex. I have no idea if the COMs on ethernet based ECU communications is xxxBASE-T or xxxxBASE-T1. Here ends the useless nerd factoid of the day.

 

What he said lol. So right now most stuff is 100 Base T but companies are working on 1000 Base T. Basically at this point cable and connector technology is outpacing chip technology which is wild.

 

Sorry to keep turning this thread into a networking shitshow, and not to be a contrarian but they've been running 1000Base-T for years, it's just gigabit ethernet (1Gbit/s - 99Gbit/s) and is well standardized. What is up in the air is terabit (100Gbit/s - to infinity and beyond) ethernet that is faster than 400Gbit/S but that should be adopted in the next couple years. Back to the car ****!

 

Me everytime I come and have a look here.
I wrench a little bit, but this topic is way out of my league, I can just admire and drink my coffee while I pretend I am working.

 

Shhh, be nice.

Dude, YOU rock! Thank you for reminding me to continue pushing my limits.

As of 12/10/2018 I'm working alongside Quicktime and Mantic Clutches to re-develop a bitchin' T56 Transmission Swap that's totally bolt-up. Grannis Motorsports is doing the final test fit stuff on their rig and I'll be getting the first setup of Twin Disc Mantic 9000 Series Full-Faced Organic Clutches and Quicktime SFI Certified v.2 Bellhousing. It's been a hell of a ride and I promise y'all I'm still pursuing greatness here...

Here's how I explained my situation to a buddy the other day:Say what you will, but that's where I'm at with life. This all has a deeper meaning than just building a fast car and doing it quickly.

 

So my Connector and Pin set is on it's way this week along with a master kit of Deutsch DT, DTM, and DTP connectors. No excuse as to not being able to make a bitchin' harness now!

 

The ethernet cable will be a 6ft Cat6E that I cut up and pin to a solid terminal DTM with strain relief loops and DR-25 heatshrink.

Ohhh, I love just being productive and off the radar. Hope y'all haven't forgotten about me.

 

A short length of Cat 6 would be an awesome sensor wiring refactor for my project.

 

I have spent some time on your thread from searches but I haven't had time to peruse it all till today, it was a slow day at work. Nice long term project, glad your getting to do it the way you want. Nice to see the custom fab work, please keep up the posts.

 

Pretty hard to make it more compact or further robust, but I'm down to hear your thoughts on the usage of more CAT6. Always up to learn something new.

I appreciate the hell out of that. I know it seems like things are moving at a snail's pace right now, but I'm juggling a lot of this stuff with various companies trying to find out the best way to do what I know needs done. Moreso, I'm realizing the value to the community for me to be able to replicate some of the stuff I've designed and worked on, so there's that too.

Stuff that I have in the pipeline right now from last year:

1. Ultra-Low Profile Turbine Housing + S5 Turbo Exhaust Manifold Configuration using an EFR8374, EFR8474, EFR9174, or EFR9274.
2. 60-2 Trigger Wheel + Alternator Setup that works with AC, PS, and Underdrives the waterpump on S4/S5 Turbo II configurations so they don't cavitate at 5600 RPM as the OEM units do.
3. REAL Roll Center Adjustment for FC Front Suspension.
4. Triangulated 4-Link Rear Suspension Kits for FB.
5. FC Front Subframe Swap Kits for FB.
6. Tremec T56 Magnum to Rotary Bellhousing + GM Concentric Slave + Twin Disc Clutch that's streetable and SILENT in operation. Power ranges from 400whp single disc to 1000+whp on an aggressive compound twin.
7. Fuel Systems. Don't Dahm it. I'll sit down and work things out for your goals.
8. Suspension Geometry stuff. Really anything you need for any car, I can give you a rundown given my experience tuning that exact chassis on mountain roads and bring up notes/data for the driving experience and how to improve it.
9. V-Mount Setups for BIG power.
10. FC to FD Intake Manifold Plenum Control units for all large, single TB setups, whether DBW or cable driven.
11. There's more, I'm just not going to dwell on this...

The point here is that I want to focus on building more for the community this year.

 

https://www.instagram.com/stories/hi...4803512136959/

 

Yes Please!

 

The problem is pricing to do it right. Most 1st Gen owners are relatively cheap or can't justify a large expense for doing things safely. The 4-Link would be WELD-IN and require cutting of the chassis. The FC Subframe stuff is also going to be a WELD-IN job because that's the better way of doing it. It's minor welding on the FC Subframe, but still not a bolt-in procedure because it's just not SAFE.

 

Would your FC front subframe system put the wheels centered in the wells, or would they be an inch forward like the typical bolt-in? I read through this thread over the last couple days, but missed how you fixed that. I mean, in one picture you show how close the tire is to the front of wheel opening, and a few posts later they look centered.

Okay I admit it - I mostly just skimmed through looking at pictures. But I'd love to upgrade the front suspension and steering, but don't want to cut the fenders to do it.

 

Sorry, dumb post. Of course yours would put it in the right place.

 

 

Quality and ingenuity take time. If someone thinks a build like this is anything less than a multi year job (unless its your full time job with a crew) then they probably don't appreciate the detail going into a quality one off build.

The 4 link intrigues me, I have not decided what to do for the rear suspension on my 85 wide-body yet so I read that part of your thread with particular interest.

 

If you're doing a 85 Widebody, I'd love to just give you the keys to the castle on this one and help out where I can, free of charge. Just so I can see something like that built to fruition without the struggles and expenses that I've accumulated throughout the trial and error portion of mine.

Give me an idea of your usage for the vehicle, power output, rear end choice that you've selected, estimated tire/wheel size, etc, and we'll go from there. Not sure if you just want suspension geometry figures or a "here are my fuckups" run-through, but I'm down to help as much as I can.

 

Here is my build thread, https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...350-a-1125572/ Its just a start of what I expect to be a multiyear process.

The general idea is I want this car to be everything I remember my 79 Rx7 from high school being plus those things I wanted it to be back in the day but couldn't either afford or didn't know how to make it happen. Now memory is a tricky thing. I remember that car having great paint, great sound system, great handling and great brakes. Back in the day if I had the ability I would have given it the power of a V8 and a more muscular look of a widebody to go along with the whale tail. I currently have a 79 limited so I know what the reality is, the car is fun to drive, simple and sporty, a real throwback to a simple and fun car. But its not as fast as I remember, or handle the way I remember, brakes are not enough, and the stereo, I haven't actually listened to a cassette in a while but once I heard one in the 79 I couldn't believe... well it wasn't what I remembered. As far as use the car will be a driver. It really wont see any track time but spirited road driving, more on the sports car side of a GT car.

So the plan.
1) The car already has a wide body kit. The paint is crappy so it will bet completely stripped and straightened before repaint,
2) V8 conversion. 350 hp and 350-400 ft-lbs torque
3) FC front suspension swap
4) Rear end, I have no idea, but given the FC has a lower roll center it will need to lower the roll center also and be able to handle the power and torque of the V8
5) For wheels and tires, my plan is 17x8 front and 17x9 rear, with 245/45 and 275/40, the biggest issue with these is the overall diameter. The 25.7 inch diameter might be too wide. The fender opening is 26 inches so it might just be to wide. The fallback size would be 215/45 and 245/40, since they are 24.7 inches tall. Both can fit on 8 and 9" rims.
6) I have ordered FC coilovers with 450 lb/inch springs for the front.

I don't have the extensive plan you did starting. I am really figuring out as I go and I realize much of this is an experiment and things will change and be redone as I go. So I am always open to input from others who have been there before me.

 

Just kind of a general observation. It can make good AV wire if you're doing custom in-wall wiring. Expanding on that notion, since it has several conductors bundled together nicely and they'll take a reasonable amount of current, it seems like a pretty decent way to wire groups of gauge senders or relay signals in general. The connections are nice and secure and easy to separate, too, when you need to. Plus the components for making/connecting cables are very easy and cheap to get.

 

The main downside of most Cat6 stuff is it's all either 24ga like what I have or 26ga, which isn't enough for what you're after. However, a quick search did reveal this badass Cat7 stuff...

https://www.mouser.com/Wire-Cable/Ca...kreu?P=1yxufhe

I'll let your mind wander on that. Jeez, if I didn't just pick up all this m22759/32, I wouldn't hesitate on that for a minute.