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My build...First build I am going to need help

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Old 08-08-11, 12:31 PM
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MN My build...First build I am going to need help

Hi,

This is a page I am dedicating to my build of 1985 Mazda RX7 12a engine. This car is completely stock I well be trying to do some mods, but as for right now I have these as my problems.(Pictures/ video) well be added at a later date.

Problems:

-Rust (little or hiding vary well)
-Exhaust leak
-Right head light motor
-Dash need repair(were radio goes)
-Tires(OLD)
-Wiper motor
-funny squeal noise only on start(Already replaced starter)
-Want to see if air conditioning works or just remove it(Does not work at moment might just need recharge)

Want to do:

-Get it running good(This is my every day car)

OK, so that out of the way. As of right now I am looking at exhaust. as far as I can tell it is leaking BAD out of the headers. So much so that there is only heat coming out of the tail pipe. I have found 2 that I like 2 being Peace Settlers. I also want(Just a want) to add or replace my other exhaust parts with a side exhaust from PATRIOT (link below)

Peace Settlers

First one

Second one


PATRIOT

Here it is

Now, also as for winter driving I know its going to be impossible, but I am still going to do it. I just would like some tips on how to get my car to start and drive better in the winter.

I think that is it for now. I well comment and add more at a later date.(Pictures and video coming.)
Old 08-08-11, 12:44 PM
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dont waste your money on pacesetter headers, they dont fit right and are poopily made. that dual universal 2.5" side exit exhaust is WAY too much for a stock 12a if it would even fit under the car. your looking for cheap, but the cheaper way is to save your money and buy quality parts. look in the classifieds, usually you can find a racing beat header used for about $150 give or take, it will last longer than your engine welcome to the club!
Old 08-08-11, 12:45 PM
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I would stay away from those parts. The pacesetter is very poor quality and isn't going to last. I've never heard of patriot. I'm sure it will be really loud, and I mean ear bleeding loud.

For a header stick with Racing Beat.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ers/16012.html
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ers/16125.html

and either go with a racing beat exhaust or a custom setup.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ems/16417.html
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ems/16422.html

If you deside to use a RB header and a custon exhaust it is best to use Magnaflow or Borla. You will need to run a Presilencer and Racing Beat is going to be the best for that.
Old 08-08-11, 12:49 PM
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MN

Thank you,

As you can tell I know little to nothing about my car, but I am doing all the work my self. So, thank you for any input. I was wondering more what the best way to take care of rust.
Old 08-08-11, 12:51 PM
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the best way is to cut it out and replace the bad metal. Where is the rust? pics of the car?

Check for rust behind the bins.
Old 08-08-11, 01:00 PM
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MN

I well have to go out and take more picture(detailed picture), but the one thing I am afraid of is the rust that might be in side of the hollow frame of the car I cant get to it. I well take some pictures with in a couple of minutes here. brb
Old 08-08-11, 01:17 PM
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MN

ok here are the rust pictures:











Old 08-08-11, 01:25 PM
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I need a cheaper hobby...

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the pics of the underneath of your car dont look all that bad, a wire wheel on a grinder and some POR-15 and you'll never need to mess with it again. I just did mine, as far as that door, your probably better off to find a new one in my opinion, but im not a body work kindof person

Old 08-08-11, 01:31 PM
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MN

How much of the POR-15 do you think i need and how to you apply it? if you dont mind me asking.
Old 08-08-11, 01:37 PM
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you wont need more than a quart (it is expensive ~$50 a quart). POR-15 is a rust proof paint made to go on directly over rust and its stops it from rusting, provided all the rust gets covered. I just used a brush to apply it, but DO NOT get it on your skin, it WILL NOT COME OFF! ask me how i know... oh, and make sure the surface is 100% clean. I wire wheeled mine, then washed with soap and water, then brake cleaner, then the POR.
Old 08-08-11, 01:41 PM
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MN

Thank you so much for the help. Now another question if i suspect rust inside of the main frame(From water or what ever getting in the drilled holes) is there any what to take care of that.
Old 08-08-11, 01:46 PM
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good question, i have the same issue. I was just going to watch mine closely and see what happens... but that car wont ever see snow/salt/heavy rain anyway
Old 08-08-11, 01:48 PM
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Oh, mine well it is my all around car through h%ll or high water lol
Old 08-08-11, 01:51 PM
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its a small car, hope the water doesnt get too high... lol
Old 08-08-11, 01:53 PM
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One word: floaties

Old 08-08-11, 02:01 PM
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For the frame you could look into this: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html

I've never used it but it looked like a cool idea.
Old 08-08-11, 02:31 PM
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What do you think of this rust remover THIS
Old 08-08-11, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Erifx
One word: floaties

Glorious!


I live near South Bend, IN, we get hit with everything that comes across Lake Michigan, i drove my 7 for 2 winters, and as long as you have a couple bags of play sand in the back and decent tires you'll be fine. As far as rust is concerned... go the POR15 route and you won't regret it. Unless you want to cut into those "frame rails" there's not much of a way to diagnose the damage inside.

Correct me if i'm wrong but Ziebart and Rhinoline guys can use spray wands to coat the insides... Just a thought.
Old 08-08-11, 02:46 PM
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Sweet thaks for the confidants boost for winter and I have already ordered the POR15 thank to you guys. Thank you
Old 08-09-11, 12:37 AM
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The rust is pretty spread out in the floor pans so yea POR is the best choice for that, door get a new one, dont go through the hassle, i am going the cut and weld new metal in way and if your not the type to like bodywork it gets annoying. so good luck and welcome. By the way follow the advice on the pacesetters they are crap, there is no better option than rb.
Old 08-09-11, 05:46 PM
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Hay,

I finally got audio of the noise my car make at start up. Bare in mind I already replaced the starter twice.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZBD3DDhSOU
Old 08-10-11, 12:27 PM
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Hot start assist = disturbing noise.
Old 08-10-11, 10:19 PM
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I think patching in new metal for that hole in the door is easier then getting, hanging and painting (if wrong color) a new one. Bodywork is easy. Like anything else in life, the more you do it the better you get. Just youtube how to fix it correctly.
Old 08-11-11, 02:27 AM
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OK, so the door I am going to patch, but as for right now I am wondering about that Hot Start Assitst. What is it? what does it do? Can I stop the sound?
Old 08-11-11, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RX-7 Chris
For the frame you could look into this: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html

I've never used it but it looked like a cool idea.
not trying to kill your very good idea, but i have ahd very bad luck with my eastwood paint products. I painted my rx7 last year with there very expensive black saffire metalic and i sprayed very hard and there clear is HORRIFIC!!!. after two months of the clear being on the car it started to clake off and bubble like crazy. we know it wasnt because of bad prep we did it in out spray booth and took extreme care in painting it.

Just throwing my expirience out with there products. PPG makes a similar type of product, for the body i would take a DA or a paint stripper and go over the whole underside of the car. then spray a rust killer on that. for the while in your sub frame it looks like that is fairly easy to take care of. cut out an inch over on each side then weld a new piece in. good luck with the build!


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