Finally, my build thread, some weird crap in here :)
09-03-11, 01:32 AM
#76
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more reasons to love this swap. because i'm using both a toyota tranny and rear end, all i had to do was have a 2wd pickup drive line shortened about 6 inches or so.
i also got about 99% through my wiring harness, good lord i swear they do loops around the car a few times with some circuits.
and if i didn't mention it before, i'm using the whole harness from the legacy, but i went through it and removed all the stuff i'm not using.
i'm hoping this works out as well as it works out in my head.
the trash pile
i also got about 99% through my wiring harness, good lord i swear they do loops around the car a few times with some circuits.
and if i didn't mention it before, i'm using the whole harness from the legacy, but i went through it and removed all the stuff i'm not using.
i'm hoping this works out as well as it works out in my head.
the trash pile
Last edited by mellow65; 07-22-17 at 10:14 PM.
09-06-11, 12:52 AM
#78
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well i have been working on my wiring for pretty much the last 4 days strait. I got to have over 30 hours into the harness. so now all lights, turn signals, and the horn works as they should, and crossing fingers that there shouldn't be issue with the the engine management.
i started to lay it out in the car today and organize the wiring into a somewhat organized mess.
but man, do i now hate wiring now.
i started to lay it out in the car today and organize the wiring into a somewhat organized mess.
but man, do i now hate wiring now.
Last edited by mellow65; 07-22-17 at 10:15 PM.
09-06-11, 11:39 PM
#79
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F**K i REALLY hate wiring!!!!!! 
but i got a chance to check it all on the ground before i put it in the car, but hmmmm, i just can't figure out why I have a check engine light.
oh wait, maybe because there's no engine or car
but i got a chance to check it all on the ground before i put it in the car, but hmmmm, i just can't figure out why I have a check engine light.
oh wait, maybe because there's no engine or car
Last edited by mellow65; 07-22-17 at 10:15 PM.
09-08-11, 10:26 PM
#81
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well, the another hurtle to over come.
as much as i was hoping that the stock shroud and rad was going to work with my motor it just doesn't.
soooooooo i either need to figure out how to move the rad forward a few inches or if i'm going to go through all of that i might just try to put something different in there that has more of an aftermarket support. because i just don't find tons in the way of 1st gen rads out there.
as much as i was hoping that the stock shroud and rad was going to work with my motor it just doesn't.
soooooooo i either need to figure out how to move the rad forward a few inches or if i'm going to go through all of that i might just try to put something different in there that has more of an aftermarket support. because i just don't find tons in the way of 1st gen rads out there.
Last edited by mellow65; 07-22-17 at 10:16 PM.
09-09-11, 06:35 AM
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The top isn't so much the issue as is the bottom. The whole thing needs to shift back about 3" which won't be the end of the world but it makes clearing the hood an issue if I don't tip it to lose some height.
Any shorter rads out there that guys have swapped into 1st gens?
Any shorter rads out there that guys have swapped into 1st gens?
09-09-11, 09:25 AM
#84
79-82 I believe it is had the short style radiator where you bolt the fmoc to the bottom of it. I swapped that in my car and trashed the old skinny tall radiator. Its thicker, 3 row, and shorter by about 7 inches.
Lookin pretty good! Is your shifter going to be waaayyyy the hell up near the dash? Looks like it will be way too high?
Lookin pretty good! Is your shifter going to be waaayyyy the hell up near the dash? Looks like it will be way too high?
09-09-11, 10:39 AM
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Hmmm, that's something to look into. But findIng one is the main issue, and damn it I just scrapped one too.
Can you get decent aftermarket 1st gen rads?
I would like to find something that's so damn commen it's dirt cheap. I was poking around eBay and found full aluminum rad for an integra that included two fans for the low $100 range. Its probably not the best one out there but you get the idea So something for a Honda would probably work just fine for me.
Can you get decent aftermarket 1st gen rads?
I would like to find something that's so damn commen it's dirt cheap. I was poking around eBay and found full aluminum rad for an integra that included two fans for the low $100 range. Its probably not the best one out there but you get the idea So something for a Honda would probably work just fine for me.
09-09-11, 11:04 AM
#86
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you can get cheap aluminum radiators on egay.
I've got a few in different vehicles and they work just fine.
For an RX7 example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-83...item56450c6dd5
or you could just by a generic aluminum rad by "size" requirements and use that. I have used an FC rad in a first gen with an FC rake and they fit nice too.
Also, I've used an aluminum toyota tercel rad. It fits perfectly between the frame rails and will work ok cooling wise if you are not running anything in front of it. It is not very tall, but about 26" wide.
Try a junk yard an pull a few that will work with the dimensions you need? In my FB racecar i'm using a factory 3 core brass tank rad out of a 1987 Lincoln Mark IV. I took out the front rad support and raked it out at the bottom. Moved the whole rad towards the front more than your required 3".
Try to keep your rake no more than 30deg. more than that will cause you to have air deflecting off the rad without some strategic ducting (not only will it need ducting into the rad, it will need some out too).
I've got a few in different vehicles and they work just fine.
For an RX7 example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-83...item56450c6dd5
or you could just by a generic aluminum rad by "size" requirements and use that. I have used an FC rad in a first gen with an FC rake and they fit nice too.
Also, I've used an aluminum toyota tercel rad. It fits perfectly between the frame rails and will work ok cooling wise if you are not running anything in front of it. It is not very tall, but about 26" wide.
Try a junk yard an pull a few that will work with the dimensions you need? In my FB racecar i'm using a factory 3 core brass tank rad out of a 1987 Lincoln Mark IV. I took out the front rad support and raked it out at the bottom. Moved the whole rad towards the front more than your required 3".
Try to keep your rake no more than 30deg. more than that will cause you to have air deflecting off the rad without some strategic ducting (not only will it need ducting into the rad, it will need some out too).
Last edited by nofords; 09-09-11 at 11:09 AM.
09-09-11, 02:09 PM
#89
You could probably buy a adapter somewhere but with ur fab skills why dont ya just weld a subaru radiator support in ^_^. Also from ur pic i cant tell where ur having the issue it looks like a tight squeeze but it looks like it would work.
09-09-11, 02:19 PM
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The Subaru rad is to wide, I checked.
The main issue I'm having is getting room for the hoses. I just don't think they make hoses that can make those kind of turns.
Another issue is the bottom outlet on the rad is on the opposit side as the motor.
The main issue I'm having is getting room for the hoses. I just don't think they make hoses that can make those kind of turns.
Another issue is the bottom outlet on the rad is on the opposit side as the motor.
09-09-11, 06:29 PM
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here might be a better picture of my main issue, as you can see the subaru bottom output is first aiming the wrong way and second it's on the wrong side of the mazda rad.
i looked at flipping the output on the motor around but that would aim it right at the oil pan, so that wouldn't help to much.
so not only would i need a hose that would turn things around 180 degrees i then would need to shoot across the bottom of the rad until i got to the lower fitting on the rad. and there just isn't enough room to really do all of that.
the top is cake, they are both pointed at each other
i have been looking at universal rads because if i'm going to have to chop up tons and make all new, what ever, i might as well get something that will be a better place to start or at least have both fittings on the correct side.
i looked at flipping the output on the motor around but that would aim it right at the oil pan, so that wouldn't help to much.
so not only would i need a hose that would turn things around 180 degrees i then would need to shoot across the bottom of the rad until i got to the lower fitting on the rad. and there just isn't enough room to really do all of that.
the top is cake, they are both pointed at each other
i have been looking at universal rads because if i'm going to have to chop up tons and make all new, what ever, i might as well get something that will be a better place to start or at least have both fittings on the correct side.
Last edited by mellow65; 07-22-17 at 10:16 PM.
09-09-11, 06:43 PM
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See if you can get a mandrel bent pipe that will fit? I know on most watercooled formula cars we use mostly bent tubing for rad hose, and then silicone just for joints.
09-09-11, 07:13 PM
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Clearly I would chop down one of the legs to make it fit better but it shows it's could be done.
I would need to space my fan away from the cooling surface also, and its to close to the pully. So I would still need to move it forward just an inch or so. But once again at that point what's the benefit of keeping the rx7 rad? I need to move the whole thing forward, I can't reuse this one because it's garbage, those 2 things alone make me seek out after market rads.
Last edited by mellow65; 07-22-17 at 10:17 PM.
09-09-11, 07:30 PM
#94
Well rotaries require a exceptional cooling system so the stock rads r actually pretty nice. U could change ur fan to a pusher insted of a puller if it works like that wich would give u the clearance for the mandrel tubing. Or for the can clearencing if u angle the rad like the 2nd gens do then ull have room for the fan and the tubing. Just a thought.
09-09-11, 08:44 PM
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Hmmmm, i guess you do have a good point there.
so you think the stock one wouldn't have any issues cooling then?
or does anyone know what HP the stockers can handle?
and then what one should i go with, the early shorter or the later longer.
something else i just thought about, so the lower tube on the rad has a funky kink about it, kicking up to aim at the rotary. so now that my output on my motor is slightly lower then the rad one, i worry now about an air bubble collecting in that spot if i don't do some funky bleeding of coolant.
hmmmm, more thinking to do, hmmmmm
so you think the stock one wouldn't have any issues cooling then?
or does anyone know what HP the stockers can handle?
and then what one should i go with, the early shorter or the later longer.
something else i just thought about, so the lower tube on the rad has a funky kink about it, kicking up to aim at the rotary. so now that my output on my motor is slightly lower then the rad one, i worry now about an air bubble collecting in that spot if i don't do some funky bleeding of coolant.
hmmmm, more thinking to do, hmmmmm
09-09-11, 09:24 PM
#96
Either stock radiator will work. Directfreak with his 500hp FB is using a tall style raiator. No problems.
I'm using brand new stock 3 row short style with a 3" thick intercooler in front of it on my turbo 7 and probably making 250-300hp. My temp guage reads 1/4-1/3 at all times in 100 degree weather beating on it...
Stock radiators do the job. People just feel the need to get aluminum and aftermarket stuff which is "better"...
I'm using brand new stock 3 row short style with a 3" thick intercooler in front of it on my turbo 7 and probably making 250-300hp. My temp guage reads 1/4-1/3 at all times in 100 degree weather beating on it...
Stock radiators do the job. People just feel the need to get aluminum and aftermarket stuff which is "better"...
09-09-11, 09:36 PM
#97
I bought my aluminum rad cuz my stocker was leaking and i like how the aluminum ones look hounestly lol. I wudent let the lower rad hose have a kink in it cuz if it collapses ur def gonna have cooling issues. If u get a dif hose that is molded closer to how ya need it ull prolly have way better results.
09-09-11, 10:00 PM
#98
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I just went out and stared at it more and I figured it out.
It pretty much involves moving it forward about and inch and probably down about an inch or so to clear the hood.
Stay tuned
It pretty much involves moving it forward about and inch and probably down about an inch or so to clear the hood.
Stay tuned
09-09-11, 10:27 PM
#99
Cool. Im so jelous of ur welding skill hah. I just noticed i have the same set of rims as the car behind urs in the 1st pic. (4x110 ultra 5 spokes) Interesting 1st time ive ever seen em other than the set i have.