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I am a true believer in V bands now. But it took me a while to get hip to them.
How's the TIG? I've done a good deal of gas welding; I feel like TIG is almost the same as gas welding. Maybe its time I gave it a shot and put down my boomer oxy/acetylene torch.
I am a true believer in V bands now. But it took me a while to get hip to them.
How's the TIG? I've done a good deal of gas welding; I feel like TIG is almost the same as gas welding. Maybe its time I gave it a shot and put down my boomer oxy/acetylene torch.
yeah vbands are great. Tig is honestly pretty easy just takes some practice. I've never welded with a torch but I would say its like soldering. Make a pool of metal then stick some more metal in and your good.
edit: get a machine with high freq start and gas control doing it manual sucks
Last edited by Badfighterpilot; May 21, 2026 at 02:46 PM.
Got the hatch on. The glass guy is coming to do the rest tomorrow. First drive should be tomorrow, and then im driving it to school Thursday for graduation.
Glass is in and it drives good. Im going to bore the carb because it is stupid rich after drilling the jets, big things that need fixed are a muffler and alternator.
Im running arround 15 afr at idle 1500-2000 rpm. Do need to change the slow speed primaries? Where do I get them
I'm pretty sure those are the jets that you can drill out and tap. Tap them for mikuni or Edelbrock jets. 15:1 at cruising is a little light, but if the engine sounds happy then send it. 15:1 under load sounds like a bad day.
Have you drilled any more progression holes in those jets?
EDIT: when I say tap the jets.... Like the jet itself. If you drill into the brass jet you can put any jet of your choosing into it.
Now for some photos. Here is the 24.9mm Nikki. The secondary nickel plated 60s were removed, drilled to 118 and installed in the primary side. The primary brass 170s were removed, filled with solder and installed in the secondary side.
Notice the primary air bleed is missing on the left side. I pulled it for a comparison picture below.
With flash. Notice the solder in the secondary slow bleeds.
Air bleed comparison. Count the progression holes.
I drilled the primaries to 118 and it runs super rich now, surprisingly even at full throttle. So im going to hog it out and do the air bleeds etc.
what's the point of drilling holes in the air bleed.
Edit, I also read on the boost prep stickie that you should drill the accel pump nozzle. is this for boosted cars, and does it require stacking the gaskets on the pump.
Last edited by Badfighterpilot; May 29, 2026 at 10:38 PM.
I drilled the primaries to 118 and it runs super rich now, surprisingly even at full throttle. So im going to hog it out and do the air bleeds etc.
what's the point of drilling holes in the air bleed.
Edit, I also read on the boost prep stickie that you should drill the accel pump nozzle. is this for boosted cars, and does it require stacking the gaskets on the pump.
Honestly couldn't tell you why to drill the holes. I did and it worked, so I never questioned it.
Stacking the gaskets gives the accelerator pump more fuel per throttle push. Its kind of a fine tuning thing.
Nope. I find it super annoying to be constantly taking the carb apart for tuning. aswell as the stock intake flowing like a lawnmower. I like that efi allows all the controls to be integrated together so that they work together to make it more efficient and safer for the engine. Ive done a few carbs that run really good but efi will always be better.
Last edited by Badfighterpilot; Jun 3, 2026 at 12:11 PM.
I have the dash back out so I can work on cutting/ moulding the carpet then pain. I also have to finish plugging the floor. I want to do something about the ebrake surrpund since its basically just a hole in the carpet. I would like the factory surged style but I dont know how you would do that in the middle of a big heavy piece of vynl back carpet. Maybe ill have to make a nice plastic trim piece that looks factory.
Last edited by Badfighterpilot; Jun 9, 2026 at 05:12 PM.