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I installed the steering collum. I turned the wheels all the way one way and put the steering wheel rack gear all the way out then straightened the wheel. But now my steering wheel goes almost a full turn either direction before the wheels move, and the steering wheel moves in and out. Is there an adjustment for this. Or maybe the bearing fell out. It was fine before and I didn't move the big jam nut on the shaft. Any ideas?
I was planning on making a turbo style exhaust and just atatching it to the stock manifold and downpipe, what do you mean by whirly. ive only tuned an edelbrock, where is there a good thread to learn about how a nikki works.
I suppose I could spend the money on the disassembled rb header sincd its not too expensive.
Whirly AKA turbo.
Edelbrock's are easy to tune, all you need is a vacuum gauge (TBH all you need in the automotive industry is a vacuum gauge). Nikki isn't so hard but its a bit more involved, and that wideband you got there will help a lot. Edelbrock carbs use vacuum to determine transition were nikkis use air passage. Under WOT fuel jets combine with emulsion tubes dictate fuel delivery.
Edelbrock's are easy to tune, all you need is a vacuum gauge (TBH all you need in the automotive industry is a vacuum gauge). Nikki isn't so hard but its a bit more involved, and that wideband you got there will help a lot. Edelbrock carbs use vacuum to determine transition were nikkis use air passage. Under WOT fuel jets combine with emulsion tubes dictate fuel delivery.
Would i just follow His sticky thread or are there any things that are different to Na because from a quick overview it looked like he was talking about only boosted engines
I think I'll just leave the carb stock, and freshen it up. No point putting a bunch of time when it won't last long
edit: the turbo should be this fall/winter when the weather gets bad.
Last edited by Badfighterpilot; May 7, 2026 at 11:35 PM.
I think I'll just leave the carb stock, and freshen it up. No point putting a bunch of time when it won't last long
edit: the turbo should be this fall/winter when the weather gets bad.
The car should drive fine with an undersized carb. The carb is only going to deliver the air/fuel it can. The engine is just capable of sucking more air/fuel than it can handle.
For what its worth the major problem most people run into with carbs is going too big. I want to believe thats why carbs get such a bad wrap. "I put a 1050cfm carb on my SBC 350... now it doesn't run well. Must be carburation is bad"
You can strip a whole lot off of the nikki. That vent valve doesn't look useful for your purposes. I don't think your vacuum system is going to work properly even if it was all functional. You did bridge port the engine so vacuum is not your friend.
I would definitely recommend switching the carb over to mechanical secondaries. While the vacuum operated secondaries are very good. It takes some vacuum signal that I don't think you're gonna get with your engine. Just when you go to drive it wait until you hit 3 or 4 k RPMs before opening the secondaries up.
The car should drive fine with an undersized carb. The carb is only going to deliver the air/fuel it can. The engine is just capable of sucking more air/fuel than it can handle.
For what its worth the major problem most people run into with carbs is going too big. I want to believe thats why carbs get such a bad wrap. "I put a 1050cfm carb on my SBC 350... now it doesn't run well. Must be carburation is bad"
You can strip a whole lot off of the nikki. That vent valve doesn't look useful for your purposes. I don't think your vacuum system is going to work properly even if it was all functional. You did bridge port the engine so vacuum is not your friend.
I would definitely recommend switching the carb over to mechanical secondaries. While the vacuum operated secondaries are very good. It takes some vacuum signal that I don't think you're gonna get with your engine. Just when you go to drive it wait until you hit 3 or 4 k RPMs before opening the secondaries up.
Good to know. Thats the only part left on my carb. Would i be able to remove the secondaries vacuum can with mechanicals
i made this hog. Yes the welds are bad but it was a quick and dirty fluxcore situation. Im going to tig the rest of it.
Hey. My carb is absolutely blasting fuel everywhere and it comes out the vent. even if i set it at less than 1 psi at the gauge. Is it probably the float level? I didn't check it when I rebuilt it, I figured it was factory.
also it does it less on rearward side of the carb.
I used the stock needles and seats
Last edited by Badfighterpilot; May 9, 2026 at 11:34 PM.
Got it running pretty decent. I think the idle is lean, pretty eye watering. Leaking water everywhere even with the new gaskets. Also the engine bay is getting pretty ugly I'll have to finger something out that isnt very expensive.
Good to know. Thats the only part left on my carb. Would i be able to remove the secondaries vacuum can with mechanicals
i made this hog. Yes the welds are bad but it was a quick and dirty fluxcore situation. Im going to tig the rest of it.
Just wire (or weld) the little secondary shaft arm to the primary. I don't know how to word that, but if you look at the side of the carb it should be obvious.
My guy is that gonna dump strait off the header?!? You are a mad man, and soon a deaf man.
Just wire (or weld) the little secondary shaft arm to the primary. I don't know how to word that, but if you look at the side of the carb it should be obvious.
My guy is that gonna dump strait off the header?!? You are a mad man, and soon a deaf man.
Or are you plumbing that into a full exhaust?
haha yeah she's louder than a header dump v8 with that exhaust port. Im putting a full exhaust, but it will be straight pipes till I decide on a muffler. Probably racing beat presilencer they sound pretty good
Got the brakes bleed, and steering installed. All the wiring is very confusing . My coolant temp isnt working, but i think the sensor isnt grounding because of thread tape? And my steering wheel won't go on so I have to figure that out. Also my steering box is very noisy, does it need adjusted?
edit: i found in my parts stash a full bolt in power window setup, and a few pieces i need, so i should have a full interior except big piece that surrounds the radio and shifter
. My coolant temp isnt working, but i think the sensor isnt grounding because of thread tape? And my steering wheel won't go on so I have to figure that out. Also my steering box is very noisy, does it need adjusted?
