Got the sealer on, unfortunately there are a few defects so I have to sand those out and re clean it but I think I'll have it done monday.

 

Got it painted, unfortunately it turned out horrible. Tons of peel and dust, sigh. Fortunately I was clearcoating it anyways, so im going to sand it down and do 1 coat plus clear.




This is what it looks like after sanding

 

Definitely not liking to gold I think I'll get the upsized factory wheels

 

I'd wait until the car is put back together then decide if the wheels go or not.

The paint does look like it needs some love and those runs are running away! I'm sure in the end you'll make the car look great!

 

there is only 1 run, thats the solvent cleaner i used to check how it would look.

 

Looking awesome! Most people will never notice the dust/runs and who really cares anyway!

I love seeing people take on these type of jobs on their own. Unfathomable amount of tricky work for those who've never done it.

What base/clear are you using? I've used SPI universal on past few jobs with great results. You can really hammer it on.

 

Im actually using single stage and putting clear over, it worked good for the engine bay but the ss just didn't spray on the body. I think the air temp was too high. Its a brand called speedokote. Im planning on using spi universal on the next job i do though.

 

Figured that might be the case when you mentioned sanding the basecoat. Keep up the good work, its gonna look awesome!

 

I used speedokote on a job one time. I didn't like it. Maybe I was spraying wrong.

It could be I'm just used to Limco products. I know they're cheap, but I know them well.

 

yea I think im gonna go with expensive stuff from now on

 

I've sprayed Speedkote, Limco, Diamont, Restoration shop and Urechem.

Diamont is the most expensive. SUPER easy to spray. The build up is fantastic. I didn't have a single issue with liftoff or anything. VERY EXPENSIVE. Like ridiculously expensive. BUT they are one of the only companies offering Mazda Montego Blue; so I had to pay. $250/ quart for base.

Limco is the second most expensive. A little more challenging to spray. Clear is really deep and shinny. Liftoff can be an issue so let it flash for a good 20 or 30 minutes. The base is not hard to lay, but you can get striping if you're not careful. It seems to last about 5 or 6 years in South Carolina sun with 12 hours of exposure ever day (and perhaps too much polishing?? LOL). The base coat costs about $120/ quart.

Speedkote... I got this stuff because I botched up my wife's car and it was $60/gallon sprayable for clear off of amazon. Just no. NO MAN. It was runny with medium hardener, and it peeled all weird like. Chemical resistance was there, but who cares if you don't get the shine.

Urechem. A buddy of mine recommended this to me. I have mixed feelings on it. VERY easy to spray. As easy if not easier to spray than the Diamont, but like ZERO chemical resistance. Gasoline will eat this paint off. BUT man does it shine. And did I mention it is VERY easy to spray. I wanna say it was $75/ quart???

Restoration shop. I've only ever used the base coats and primers (mostly cause they are overnight available on Amazon). They spray well enough for primer. The base coats don't like to stick to anything but the restoration shop primer. I've seen gallon kits for $300 or so. IDK on this one. I'm concerned about adhesion with the base coats. I did spray my third brake like on the RX986 with this stuff; so time will tell.



TLDR: I like Limco. Its cheap and it works. I think if I hammer on some more clear and dont polish too much its a good 10 year finish (in intense SC heat). Diamont is GREAT if you have the coin. Other stuff..... IDK

In the end I'm am an AMATURE and not to be taken seriously.

 

good info. However ive personaly heard speedokote is a pretty good budget brand (i would have rather used expensive but i purchased it at the beginning of the project and was too stubborn to buy new) mainly heard this from a youtuber called paint society. who is a professional painter who used to / works for a honda dealer.

Now I will say it sprayed absolutely atrocious on the body, but im really thinking it was my fault because I had my shop heater set to 85 and part temp was 85 using medium ≈70f hardener im guessing it was evaporating a portion of the solvent before even hitting the panel/ also just from sitting in the cup.

My oversight, I got a little ahead of myself. The reason I did this was it worked for the engine bay, but it was arround 30f outside so i think my air temp was cooler even though the part temp was 85. Anyway ima throw clear on it and it should be glass because it's xslow and the base will be sanded flat+ recoated at the proper temp. Its unfortunate because it's more work but it honestly will probably be a better result in the end.

 

Little update on the engine. I had to order end play because I changed a plate & the eshaft.
Im going to use the stock intake and exhaust even though I would like a webber and header setup it seems like a waste when im most likely replacing it with the turbo this winter. I would probably do it if I could get a used set for cheap enough. I also ordered an engine mount set from mtheory. So the engine and body will probably be done at the same time.

I feel like eventually im going to convince myself to by billet pro plates

 

Went to the cars and coffee season opener, only 2 rx7 and a third in spirit.

 

Just got my @MTheoryInc engine mounts. Very impressed. Also does anyone know if they bolt in or do i have to use the clamshell pieces from the factory ones.